Archive for the ‘Helen’ Category

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Town Tour – Matara

January 27, 2008

Helen – Tom and I walked one lap of the beach this morning so we could make church at 8.  We got there about 10 minutes early, parked the car across the street and went inside.  The first thing we noticed was the offering table which had, along with the host, a bowl of flowers, a wrapped package, and a basket tray filled with fresh vegetables.  The people there were saying the rosary and they didn’t finish until 8:15 which in turn delayed the mass.  The alter boys were dressed in Red robes and preceded the priest to the altar.  Next (it was Children’s Sunday) the children all lined up in the back of the church dressed in school uniforms (girls wore white dresses with ties and the boys wore navy blue shorts and white short sleeve shirts); each child was carrying a flower and a present wrapped to give to the priest at the altar.  Those who didn’t have presents had money envelopes, in fact, several adults also joined carrying envelopes.

The church, St Mary’s, was quite lovely with 6 open arch doorways on each side.  The Stations of the Cross were concrete painted reliefs positioned between the arches.  There were also pew sections on either side of the altar.  The interior was very similar to the cross shape of St. Theresa in Colombo.  The walls where the people sat were painted a pale yellow, the altar area was painted pale pink and the inner altar area was painted pale blue.  The entire mass was in Sinhalese so we didn’t understand a thing and I missed singing the lovely songs.  Once again communion was given at the altar, kneeling and extending the tongue just like in the old days back home.  The homely was at least 35 minutes if not longer and we were getting pretty restless.  The entire mass took about 1:40.

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The farmers market sets up each Wednesday and Sunday, so we went there after church.  It was very crowded and we went to just browse because we had already shopped yesterday.

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We continued walking behind the bus station to the old Dutch Fort built in 1780.  There was a service taking place in an old Dutch Reformed Church inside.  It looked like it was one of the buildings that survived the December 26, 2005 tsunami which took 1000 lives here.  We found the “Little Dutch Restaurant” and ordered milk tea for me and coffee for Tom and had two vegetable buns…grand total of $1.  There were some really old buildings in there, lots of residences, small businesses, and an army complex.  It would be nice if they fixed it up.

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Leaving the fort we walked to the Buddhist Temple on Parey Duwa Island opposite the bus station.  We had to take off our shoes and leave them with the shoe check man before climbing the stairs to the temple.  A service was going on in the main building so we didn’t go in there.

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We returned to the market to buy some tomatoes and a strainer.

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Then as we walked to the car we passed a little bakery of sorts where the man was making those vegetable buns in a front window so we could watch.  He started with a small ball of yeast dough and then slapped it around (like our pizza throwers) with his hand stretching it into a long oval.  Put the vegetable mixture in the middle, then folded the longs side over the middle and proceeded to fold it into a triangle.  He cooked them on the grill turning from front to back and then on each of the three sides.  We bought one because the man spoke some English and said they weren’t too spicy…wrong, Tom had one little bite, I finished it and my nose started to run and I broke out in a cold sweat.

Crossing the street we couldn’t find our car…first thought was that we had illegally parked and our car was towed.  We were safe; we just didn’t recognize our own car.

When we got home we went for a swim.  It was cloudy and really windy so there were lots of waves.  Tom worked on his presentation while I knitted, sat in the sun, and went two houses up to meet the German people (Hiki and her father) who are building a home for their vacation getaway.  They even brought their electrician from Germany because they didn’t trust the locals.

I made dinner which consisted of rice with sautéed onions and peas with cilantro, pan steamed/grilled chicken ¼‘s and tomato–onion salad.  It’s really amazing that all I have to cook with is that three burner gas stove-top, an electric rice cooker, an electric teapot, and a really small oven which I have only used for toast.

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Helen’s Birthday!

January 26, 2008

Tom – I was supposed to again work on the Wittenberg connection problems at the university but I have lost patience.  I spent most of the day at home doing my Power Point presentation from scratch.  It won’t be fancy but I should be able to cover my bases.

Breakfast overlooking the Indian Ocean

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Helen – HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ME!!!  We decided that today we would not go into the university so I thought it would be a “nothing new to write home about day.”  Wrong!!

First – someone stole my boogie board!!!  Boy was I mad this morning when we went out for our walk and found someone had taken it from inside our gated back/beach yard.  I hope that they enjoy it and you know that I will be watching to see if someone is using it!!

Second – also on our walk we noticed a little old lady with a big bag of something on her head.  She was walking toward the east rock headland for our beach (it is a natural rock area).  When we made our second round we noticed she was sitting in the water with her long skirt all wet digging for something and moving these rocks around.  We walked up closer and she begins talking to us but of course we can’t understand a word.  Tom assumes that she needs some help, so he starts to gather some rocks from another area and she motions him “NO,NO.”  It seems that she is burying coconut shells in the mud and then piles rocks on them so the water won’t take them away.  Tom was going into another cache.  After she finished burying the shells, she went to another area and started digging up shells which she had buried days before.  These were pretty black looking and decomposed.  She ripped the bark off then took the fiber bundle and pounded it with a stick on a rock until it separated and spread apart.  Then she took this and washed it in the water to get all the dirt out and laid it next to the bag to take home.  Ok, now that I knew what she was doing, I just jumped right in there and started washing the fiber bundles, wringing them out, and piling them up on the rocks.  The second round I had the job of stripping off the barks and washing the fiber bundles.  She then showed me how she twisted the fibers to make rope and indicated that the rest of the fibers would be made into brooms.  While I was working, Tom went back to the house for the camera (first morning he didn’t bring it with him) and she kept talking to me like we were best friends.  A man that we met on the beach a few days ago walked over to us and he translated for me.  I told her I would see her in a few days.

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Local reef fisherman, floats on his inner tube and nets fish, crabs, etc.

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Third – I forgot to mention that yesterday on our walk we saw a fishing boat come up on shore.  There were several men waiting for them because they needed help pulling the boat up on the shore.  We stopped to see what they caught and Tom took their picture then we helped them with the boat.  It was really heavy because it was wood and it had an outdoor motor on the back.  They offered to sell us a fish for $2 or $4 for a kilo…since we didn’t know what kind of fish it was, we declined.  A lot of the fish caught are only good for curries or stewing, not for grilling.

Fourth – Kamala (surrogate landlady), a young newly ordained English teacher for translation, accompanied by a workman came to do some required chores.  The workman was to fix the toilet that wouldn’t flush, to install a hot water system for one bathroom, and fix the fan in the dining area which only had 1 speed, very slow.  The shower situation got a little tricky.  Most of the bathrooms have a little hot water tank in the bathroom and you put on the switch about 10 minutes before you need hot water.  Remember we have three bathrooms, two that are enclosed and one that has no ceiling (just a few wooden slates across the top).  You can guess which one has the only electrical outlet.  We said, we didn’t think it was a good idea to put the hot water in there, because during the rainy season who will want to take a shower in that bathroom??  They said that the owner specifically said that was the correct one.  They called him back and worked it out.  Are you ready for the solution???  They put in another shower head in the covered part of the bathroom, but now the water will splash over the sink, toilet and the whole floor will get wet.  You got it, no shower curtain over there and the shower stall still remains.

Fifth – this fellow was also supposed to fix the ceiling light by the front door so that when you come into the house you have light.  He replaced the bulb and then we discovered that it blinks on when someone rings the doorbell.  Can’t people hear the bell?  Do they need a light to signal it as well??

Sixth – I decided that our beach needed an environmental clean-up.  I cleaned up the plastic bags, plastic ice cream spoons, toothbrushes (we often see the villagers brushing their teeth on the beach, go figure) paper, and just general debris.  When I got close to our wall, I found a long; I mean long, snake skin.  It really freaked me out!!!

Seventh – we decided to go swimming again and noticed that there were lots of boys and girls down at one end of the beach.  First we thought that they we pulling the fishing nets in…when Tom checked it out, seems they were from the university having an initiation ritual from one of the departments.  Girls and boys were fully clothed, playing with a ball in the waves, throwing each other into the waves, burying people in the sand and throwing sand all over one another.

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Eighth – I walked over to the hotel to have a look.  Renata (Polish) and her husband, Bobby (Sri Lankan) who live in Switzerland have just finished building the hotel.  I mentioned it was too bad that we didn’t meet a few days earlier and missed the party.  She replied, yes it was.  They didn’t send out invitations, just told everyone to come over and we should have just stopped in.  Anyway, this hotel is really nice…the rooms are quite large, each with a private bath, big windows overlooking the ocean because they are on a hill, and comfortable new mattresses (this is really unusual).  The lobby is an outdoor area under a roof, as is the restaurant area.  One balcony will be having a billiards table, and eventually there will be a Jacuzzi on the rooftop.  Bobby’s brother Luke will be taking care of the hotel when they are in Zurich.  The rooms are now renting for $20/night…remember that I told you that some of the top hotels in Colombo were renting for $75-80/night.  They plan to bring in tourists from Switzerland.  About half the cost of flying in from the U.S.

Ninth – We needed to go back into town to grocery shop and see when Mass was for tomorrow morning.  The Food City was packed and the parking area isn’t very large.  We noticed a policeman in the lot when we arrived and thought he was for security.  When we came out, he was directing traffic in the parking lot and telling you how and where to park.  OK, they really needed it with the three-wheelers, motorcycles and cars all trying to squeeze in there.

Tenth and Last – Tom took me out for dinner in the little restaurant next door to the hotel and behind our house.  We had asked them to cook for us earlier in the day: wanting grilled fish (rockfish which has lots of meat and few bones), vegetable rice, and potato curry.  It was delicious.  The fish was not grilled but steamed in foil and nicely seasoned.  We brought our own beer and as I am writing this, Tom is sleeping on the bed in the study.  I had a great day but really missed my family and friends on my day!!

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Missed the Party!

January 25, 2008

Tom – Horrendous computer problems!  I have been trying to connect to the Wittenberg server for three days in order to get a Power Point presentation I am supposed to give to the entire university on Tuesday and have been unable to do so.  I emailed the various error messages to Wittenberg.  I called them several times but was not able to get any assistance.  I finally made a contact with Rick (1am our time) and he said he would get them moving.  So this morning I get an email from Scott giving me three separate instructions – none of them worked!  Meanwhile the computer techs at U of Ruhuna are trying but unable to help.

Now compound this with Wittenberg email problems and I am about ready to pull out the last of my gray hair!  After several tries, I am able to get to my Witt email but I am shortly timed out, or if I do any operation e.g. open a different message, delete a message, click reply to a message, etc., I am kicked out and have to log in 2-4 times again just to get back to where I was!

Helen – This morning after our walk on the beach (which we now guesstimate is 1.3 miles round trip) we went boogie boarding because we found an old one on top of the refrigerator.  Tom had trouble with his knees when he got to the shallow end but I had a few really good rides…wish I were 20 again and could try surfing with the young couple from Australia and New Zealand who are here on summer break.
Moon setting as we start our beach walk
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The one boat of a village on our beach
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Catch of the day!  – Note the U.S. Aid shirt (received after the tsunami)
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Aussie surf chasers
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Boogie boarding – our house beyond wall (can see roof) with small hotel behind
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I think that I mentioned in the previous email that the new hotel had its grand opening last night.  We saw them preparing all day and wondered who would be attending…wish we knew in advance because they partied until 3am and since we couldn’t sleep we could have joined them…there is a dirt one lane road separating us and they look into my outside kitchen.  We shut all the doors and windows but the eves are open so we felt the band and the loud speakers were in bed with us.  We were pretty ticked and were going to complain this morning when the surfer couple on the beach said that the party was for the workers who just completed the work.  Since they are renting next door to the hotel, they went over to investigate and were asked to join the party for free food and drinks…once again we missed a great opportunity!!
TGIF and hopefully the computer network will be set up in the house and we will be able to work from there.  This week Tom has a major university presentation (whcih he is still having trouble accessing from Wittenberg though he called the university at 1am our time since the party was keeping us up!!) and both he and I begin teaching classes this week which I have already explained in the up coming sequel.
Enjoy the weekend!
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Second Day in Paradise!

January 24, 2008
Helen – Well almost…I just wrote about last night and today and was getting to the last three lines when the computer lab lost power – and I lost my diary!!  Now I know that I have to save every paragraph so I won’t get caught in this predicament again!!  I will now try to remember what I wrote but I have to admit my frame of mind is not the same as it was a few minutes ago.

Last night when we returned to the beach house the workers were still there cleaning (??) and getting ready for us.  We had spoken to the owner (whom we thought was here in Matara but is in fact in Colombo) and he said that we were free to use anything we found in the house.  Well, when we returned, they had left the bare essentials (dishes, utensils, glasses, clean sheets on the bed) and removed everything else (towels, food, spices, pots and pans, and cleaning essentials).  We called the owner again, must have spoken to him at least 8 times because the helpers don’t speak English (except Kamala who knows very little and has trouble with our American accent).  He said to go over to the 2 bedroom bungalow where they had taken the stuff and take whatever we wanted.  So we got pots and pans, towels, more sheets but no spices, etc.

We were glad when they all left and we could reorganize things ourselves.  We were pretty tired since we had been up since 4:30 that morning but we unpacked a few things to get ready for bed.  I washed the wardrobe down which is in the second bedroom and aired it out.  This bedroom has two single beds.  All the beds have massive carved feet about 12” off the floor, a solid wood base (full or twin) and a foam mattress.  This room has two windows with one facing the beach, and one outlet.  I decided to use this room as my dressing room and spare room for suitcases, etc.  It also has a small bathroom with a shower stall and we will be using it for a guest room (Ruki our guest house owner promises she will visit) when/if we have company.  Meanwhile Tom was organizing his office and getting the phone line working.

Our room has a larger bathroom with shower stall, a double bed, small dresser and clothes rack on the wall (both Tom’s).  I noticed that the mattress was pretty lumpy.  So we took off the sheets and turned it over, put two bottom sheets on and then remade the bed.  It was much better now except it creaked whenever we turned or moved.  We took cold showers tucked ourselves under our net and went to sleep.

 

Today – We woke up about 6:15 and could hear the waves rolling in.  After getting ready for our walk (I was finally able to wear shorts and tank top since we were on the beach) and then opening the patio doors – our breath was taken away!  The back yard slopes down to the gate which leads to the beach and is full of tall leaning palm trees.  The stepping stones make a curved path to the gate and both sides of the yard are planted with flowering shrubs for privacy.  To the right of the stepping stones at the base of the patio is a large pond and then the landscape slopes up toward the beach to another concrete patio with concrete picnic table and chairs, a concrete structure which resembles an outdoor grill of sorts without the grill, and then a wooden slat platform deck for sunning or sitting and watching the ocean from a height.  There are outdoor lights along the fence and on the patio for evening entertaining.

We went down the stepping stones, opened our gate and walked the crescent beach which is about 0.67 mile in length.  At each end of the beach are small rock headlands and then beaches on the other side of them.  We walked our beach and looked for seashells but none were to be found except for a few broken fragments.  In one tidal pool we did see one sea urchin and some small crabs scurrying sideways.  We met two runners and a couple of fishermen; and saw two little boys squatting on the beach near the foliage having bowel movements.  You would be proud of us because we did not take a photo!!  They just continued doing their business as we walked past them.

After our walk, we had breakfast on the patio at the picnic table.  It was nice to be by ourselves for a meal, the first in three weeks, without someone looking over us or having to make conversation.  We just had Total with bananas and finally low fat milk, orange/cranberry juice (after mango for two weeks), coffee and mandarin oranges.  The breakfast was simple but the view magnificent.  Back to the real world of doing dishes and cleaning up (didn’t miss it for the last three weeks!).  Worked on cleaning the kitchen some more and washing the inside of cabinets and shelves because we were going shopping later.

Living room looking out front door

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Living room

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Living room looking toward back of house, kitchen and driveway entrance

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Living room looking out toward pond

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Owner’s parents pictures in entrance way

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After cleaning the kitchen I began putting clothes and things away and trying to get organized.  I had to rewash the wardrobe and lined the shelves with plastic shopping bags before putting my clothes on them.  This took several hours and by that time I was getting sweaty; what better excuse to go into the water for a swim.  The water was really warm and the waves had a gentle roll to them.  I stayed about 40 minutes and then came inside for another cold shower; I have to admit it really wasn’t all that bad if you turned the water on quickly to get wet, then shut it off while you suds up, then turned it on again to rinse, turn it off again while you shampoo your hair, turn it on again to rinse, and most important is to shave your legs outside of the shower!!  Couldn’t use the hair dryer again because the outlets are different which means we will get another adapter.  Got dressed and was ready to go shopping and to the university.

While I was doing all this, Tom was still working on his office.  By the time he showered and dressed it was noon, so we had to look for something to eat on the way.  We found a bakery just down the street on the main road and got a fish and potato pastry, a hard boiled egg pastry, and a sugared bread roll.  We ate it in the store and will probably return for those fish pastries because they were actually good even though they sound gross!!

On to the dialog phone store again…the instructions are terrible and Tom needed help for a few functions on our phones.  Across the street there was a little store which sold our KIT card for the phone minutes (we are going through them like hotcakes).  It is just five cents cheaper to call locally than it is to call the states and like home they charge for in-coming and out-going calls.  Thank heavens we now have a house phone, so people can call us here first before calling the cells.

Next stop was the local green grocers on the circle in the middle of town.  Their prices were higher because we were foreigners so we returned to the Food City where everything is labeled and pretty cheap except for juices, soda, and other imported things. I will include a quick price check for the few things we bought.  Beer was cheaper than soda and better for you with the electrolyte content…so, I am getting to like beer!

 

The Sri Lankan Lion Lager Beer – 625ml, 4.8% alcohol, cost $0.75, $0.23 bottle deposit, for a grand total of $0.98 – and it’s good!  Nescafe instant coffee is about $4 for 100g (boy do I miss my café lattes), lowfat milk is $3.80 gal, mandarin oranges are $.63/lb, leaf lettuce $.63/lb, tumeric powder 100g for $.38 (this is the greatest bargain), limes $.27/lb,  tomatoes $.30.lb, basmati rice $. 50/lb, and dried garbanzo beans (I always bought them in a can) $.70/lb.  So tonight I was going to cook Syrian eggplant mousacca.  We loaded the non perishables into the car and headed for the university.  Tom is getting to be pretty good at driving and honking his horn and passing in that invisible middle lane.  I had to help him with his parallel parking on the busy street by getting out and telling him how close he was to the motorcycles parked behind him.  People were looking at us a little strangely, but hey, we didn’t want another motorcycle accident!!

At the university we looked at an office in the physics building which they are going to set-up for us.  This building is better for us because they have better computers and Kanthi’s (the physics professor who is Chair of the Sport Advisory Board and speaks great English) office is nearby.  The room is presently a disaster area used for storage but will be cleaned and will have two desks for us by Monday or Tuesday.  So I went back to the lab where I worked and Tom to Kanthi’s office where she had a faster internet connection.

 I was working on this email and just got to the point where I was ready to sign off when the power went off and I lost my document.  I was beside myself and the student sitting two seats down just looked at me in astonishment.  I asked her did I lose everything and she replied yes if you didn’t save it.  You have to save every few minutes in case this happens.  Then I remembered telling you about the power outages when we needed our headlights and could have kicked myself for forgetting.  I figured I may as well go to Kanthi’s office but couldn’t find it.  I walked around and up and down some stairs and kept passing the same two students sitting near by.  I just looked like I had forgotten something and walked back to the lab, well, couldn’t find that either.  Next plan of attack was to find the car and go from there; thought I saw it and took a short cut across some grass which then took me up this hill, through some bushes and brought me back to the same two students.  They looked at me pretty funny so this time I asked them for directions except I couldn’t remember Kanthi’s last name and they didn’t speak English.  They started rattling off some names and I recognized hers.  They took me to her office and I couldn’t wait to get home.  Anyway, I am writing this at home and will copy and paste tomorrow.

Coming home I was ready to cook dinner and see how I fared.  First I had to scrub the wok and little pan because whoever used them last left them dirty and crusted.  Then I had to Clorox the lettuce, rinse it with cold boiled water and let it drain (no spinner), Clorox the eggplant, the tomatoes, the limes, the oranges; forgot that I first had to rinse and sort the garbanzo beans and start cooking them because I had no idea how long they would take.  Back to the meal, fried the eggplant, then the onions, added the tomatoes, returned the eggplant back to the wok and cooked it on top of the stove (usually bake in oven for about an hour) to simmer.  Now remember that the prep was done in the inside kitchen and the cooking in the outside kitchen, did a lot of running back and forth to stir and prep.  I think that I will start getting used to prepping and cooking outside.  I had hoped to eat outside on the wooden patio but it was already dark by the time I finished. Tom enjoyed eating without worrying if it was too spicy and I loved having salad again.

After cleaning up, I sat on the wall and watched the white waves roll onto shore in the dark until Tom was ready to let me have the computer.

We thought this was going to be a peaceful place…we have no TV (and had just installed cable for our renters back home), no radio either BUT a new hotel open for business today and they are having a party with loud music.  I hope this doesn’t happen every night.  I won’t be writing for a few days because I have to prepare for my walking class so you will have a reading rest from this diary/novel.  I am trying to beat Michener for volume!!

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Getting Settled – Matara

January 23, 2008
Helen – Jan 23rd IS A GREAT DAY !!!  This morning we left Colombo at 5:20 with our rental car packed so full that there almost wasn’t any room for me.  Our friend Ranjan loaned us his driver for the day so he and Tom sat up front.  We sent him back on the bus and it was a really a long day for him.  If you remember from a past email Harsha usually takes a 2.5  hour bus ride to Colombo just to get to Ranjan’s house.  So this morning he took the bus and Tuk-Tuk to our house, drove us 5 hours to Matara and then had to take the bus home.  Ranjan would not hear of letting us pay Harsha and he would not take anything from us no matter how we tried.

 

The first thing we did in Matara was to look at the two apartments which Ruki recommended via a personal friend.  One bungalow was a two bedroom with a tiny galley kitchen and a cold water bathroom with the ceiling open to the sky except for a few cross beams.  The dining table was outside consisting of a concrete table with benches…bugs and dinner didn’t sound real good.  The second bungalow was next door.  It consisted of three bedrooms each with a bath (cold water again) dining area with table and chairs, living area with couch and couple of chairs, bigger kitchen and more equipped (large toaster oven, rice cooker, larger refrigerator etc.).  Both were right on the beach…the second had a larger yard but the first one had a cow (mower instead of mooer).  The first cost $300/month and the second $600/month.  We bargained a little (couldn’t too much because of Ruki) and got him to hook up hot water, the phone, and do a few repairs.  There is also a little (like 4’ 2”) woman named Leela who would clean and cook if paid extra.  Another advantage is that it is very close to the university (about 1.5 miles).  So we took the larger bungalow and after contacting the landlord were able to move in that day.  YEH!!!!

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We had our meeting at 11:00, worked out Tom’s schedule which will include teaching his Fitness Programs course to the PE instructors here to supplement their course which is similar to his (T-TH-F 9:30-11:30), doing a weight training course for the athletes and students (T-TH 4:15-5:30), and giving an introductory university lecture titled “Fitness for Life,” which will also serve to introduce him and his courses…I will also be teaching a Fitness Walking class for students and faculty on T- TH 4:15-5:30 (non paid).

After the meeting we went to lunch with Kanthi (Chair of the Sport Advisory Council) to a local fast food place.  We ordered the native fare of rice, lentils, potatoes, and a spicey green thing.  Washed our hands and dug in…I ate it all, Tom added fish to his and didn’t eat the green spicy thing.  My meal was about $0.80 and his $1.20.  I may not have to cook!!!

Went to the super market (Cargills Food City) to get a few things for breakfast and then returned to campus to the Physics Department (Kanthi’s department) computer lab to work on emails.

We are glad to be finally settling in.

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Duruthu Perhera (Poya Day)

January 22, 2008
Tom – It is a Buddhist Holiday.  Poya means full moon so there is a Poya Day every 28 days and it usually corresponds with a festival and procession (Perahera) somewhere in the country.  Today’s Duruthu Perahera was to take place at the Kelaniya Raja Maha Vihara (Temple) just outside Colombo.  We were told they were not having the procession because of security reasons but planned to incorporate it with the next one which takes place in Colombo on February 20.  Duruthu Perahera celebrates a visit by the Buddha to Sri Lanka.

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We were up at six and drove to the Independence Memorial where we left the car for a two hour walk to and around Beira Lake in Colombo.  A very pretty Buddhist Temple, Seema Malakaya, is built in the lake.  It’s a shame the lake is polluted and the walkway around it not cared for.  I took some nice early morning photos as the sun rose on the two island pavilions.  We also took off our shoes and walked around the perimeter of the small island.  One pavilion is filled with Thai bronze Buddhas and the other is centered around a Bodhi tree (the kind of tree under which the Buddha found enlightenment).  There are additional Buddha statues there as well as four Brahmanist figures in separate small rooms, one in each corner.  I took a picture of each of the two that were open.

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The afternoon was spent doing the diary and packing for the move to Matara.

Ranjan invited us out for an early dinner.

 

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Car Rental = Car Accident!

January 21, 2008

Tom – Took a one hour walk this morning after the power went out.  When we got back had breakfast, showered and I left to arrange for the rental car at Mal-Key Travels & Tours.  The Managing Director was very helpful in working me through the process.  I checked 4-5 places and he seemed to have the best package of value and service.  They arranged to have a driver come with the rental car to pick me up and then I had to drive back to the agency; I guess they wanted to check on my driving on the wrong side of the street with the crazy traffic.  As a result of the 150 year British occupation, they drive on the left side of the road with the steering wheel on the right side of the car.  Sri Lanka became independent in 1948.

Once there I was able to get a long term lease >3 months for about $375 a month plus a $235 deposit.  The car is a 1999 Toyota Corolla 110 Limited, automatic and silver gray.  There was (and still is) a squeak when I start driving and turn right and the back tires were worn.  They put on four new tires when I went to the bank to withdraw all but $20 from our account.  I will need the rest of the money to pay our first months rent when we get to Matara.  We are currently cash poor but have money coming into the account in the next two weeks.

Helen – I guess it’s my role to tell you about the drive home from the car rental agency.  Tom made it home just around the corner from the house…he has to cut the corner close making that turn and darn wasn’t there a motorcycle parked illegally there.  Well, you can’t really say illegally because everyone parks there and along the street because there is a medical center at the intersection with no parking lot.  Yep, he hit it, knocked it down, and put a nice dent in both doors where they meet on the driver side.  He goes to find the driver, the driver comes over, looks at his cycle and decides no damage was done and drives away.  Tom calls his rental agency to report the accident; thank goodness the contract included insurance, and they replied that if the car was drivable as is (no lights broken, etc) not to worry about it now and they would take care of it at the end of the lease.  Do you think they expect a few more fender benders on this lease???  He was pretty embarrassed but we got a good story out of it.

We decided to call Ranjan and asked him to send his driver over to pick us up and bring us to his store and we would buy him lunch.  I wanted to see his reaction when I brought in the elephant and fish paintings to be framed (he had thought to buy the elephant but didn’t) and we didn’t want to drive there at high traffic time.  We ordered the delicious curry chicken puff pastries, but he wouldn’t let us pay for them.  He is going to cut the frame for the elephant but leave it unassembled since it is so large and frame the fish because it is attached to a broad backing and couldn’t be removed to be rolled for transporting home.

Afterwards we made one last stop at the House of Fashion and picked up a few more deals, the most important one being umbrellas.  When we got back to the guesthouse, Ruki had me try on one of her saris.

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Ruki decided to take us out for dinner at the Green Cabin to celebrate my upcoming birthday.  It was a lovely restaurant with a covered outdoor eating area.  It is well known for its Sinhalese cuisine.  There were no alcoholic beverages there so we had ginger beer which is like our ginger ale but with lots more ginger.  As always, dinner was late and we went to bed stuffed!!

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Paintings, Elephants, etc.

January 20, 2008
 Helen – Last night we went to Ranjan’s home for dinner and met a lovely young lady, Sandy.  We had a typical meal with flour hoppers (last time we had rice hoppers) with two kinds of shrimp sides, a white (not so spicy) lentil curry, potatoes and grated coconut with spices.  Once again all the foods were placed on our dishes and we mixed and ate with our fingers.  Fresh pineapple, banana, and mango slices were the perfect dessert.  We also made plans to meet him this morning.
Ranjan picked us up at 7:30am to go to the Kala Pola or Arts/Crafts Show across from the Art Museum.  The show was schedule to start at 10am but Ranjan wanted to get there early so he had his pick of the paintings – he owns a framing and painting shop.  The couple of things that really caught my eye were the old door panels, spice boxes, and other old wooden pieces painted with old temple art.  They were running several hundred dollars for the larger pieces; there was also a dealer who had root art.  He took tree roots and made huge sculptures with them.  Another dealer made ornamental lamps out of various leaves that looked like Japanese lanterns.  I bought two pieces from the same dealer.  We noticed him as soon as we got there and at the end bargained him down to about $70 for a large elephant and much smaller lion fish.  I also bought three smaller watercolors of Kandy drummers.
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There were a lot of paintings on the street (no fee) when we arrived.  When we left at 9:45 the street and median were filled and the area being used inside (stalls with fee) Viharamaha Devi Park was almost full as well.  Ranjan has suggested that I work with him and his daughter Petal in Springfield to sell Sri Lankan art on the internet.
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Helen – Passing Sights – Dogs: first: there are stray dogs everywhere.  They are scraggly, thin, molten furred and really sad sights to behold.  They look hungry as they dig through the garbage heaps along the side of the roads and their eyes beckon for some friendly hand.  I can’t look them in the eye without feeling so very sad.  They are multicolored, multi-mixed, and of medium size.  The one thing you notice so often is that a hind leg is crippled…those crazy cars must hit them and bounce them off the street if they don’t get out of the way fast enough – yet, they go on, day after day.

Hair:  it’s beautiful, long and black.  All ages have long hair, and I mean long…past the waist, past the fanny, past the knees.  It is worn in buns, pony tails, braids (1 and 2) and flowing.  I love to look at the different hair styles; their hair is so thick and full, I am envious.

Mason: walking to the Internet Café yesterday we noticed a mason working on a wall.  He was adding the top molding design.  Only part of it was complete so we watched a while hoping that he was going to use the form for the mold so we could see how he did it.  He continued to build up the area measuring with a stick for leveling and depth.  We left and when we returned I saw him making the mold not with a form but with the same leveling stick.  The mold had a concave center and a protruding top with several different steps which were repeated on the bottom as well.  He was amazing; it was so uniform you would swear that he used a form to sculpture the design.

Mowers: let’s talk about cutting the grass!!  No one has much of a lawn to begin with, and then the grass is more like our low creeping crabgrass with thick blades.  While in the Fulbright office one day we kept hearing this raking sound…it was a push roller mower with a squeaky wheel.  He kept going over the same spot several times to be sure it was uniformly cut.  No rows for them.  Then later we passed a large playing field.  Now this is interesting!!  Men were lined up one behind the other and a little to the side of the person in front.  They were all swinging the old fashioned weed whacker…remember the one which had a stick handle and a metal serrated blade at the end?  That’s the one and I bet they don’t work by the hour!!

Squirrels: these are a hybrid of our squirrel and chipmunk.  The body is slightly larger than our chipmunk but has the same coloring…the tail is longer and fluffy like our squirrels.  They have lots of them.

Horses: have only seen a few horses and no donkeys.  There were a lot of donkeys in Egypt so we expected to see them here as well.  The three horses that we did see were more like big ponies and they were tied up to graze near a play area.  Maybe the kids get to ride them?  There were two pure white ones and one solid brown.  I don’t think I would like riding them.

Street Lights: we saw a man riding on a bicycle holding a long pole with a hook on the end.  Then we saw him again around the block using the pole to shut off the electric street lights one at a time.  I wonder if he repeats the route at evening???

Mailman: also on a bike in his uniform with a basket in front and also carrying a bag in front of his body.  The basket didn’t look too organized and his hands were full so I don’t see how he managed to ride his bike with all the traffic.  We noticed him in the section of Colombo called Crow Island; it is in the capital but in one of the outer sections.  This is a picture of our mailman.

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Ice Cream Man: on another old rickety bike, with cones in a box secured in the front basket, and the ice cream in a large box with dry ice balanced on the back.  He used a hand horn with bulb (like a clown) to let people know he’s there.

Kitchen: I watched Irene cook this morning.  The work table is covered with tin/aluminum which is really better than wood as far as cleaning it for germs, though I sometimes wonder about the cleanliness because there are so many flies on and around the food during preparation.  She uses these neat clay pots for cooking most of the curries.  They are in the shape of bowls with a smaller bottom and larger rim.  They are seasoned and black now and nothing seems to stick.  Everything has curry powder, tumeric, chilies powder and salt.  I don’t see her using pepper, which is just as well.  On the table is an old fashion coconut grater.  It works like a meat grinder handle with a serrated six blade thing on the end.  You cut the coconut in half and then hold it so the blade cuts the coconut meat from inside the shell.  They do several things with this coconut.  First they make coconut milk by adding water and putting it in the blender. Then you strain it and this is the first milk.  The second milk is made from the squeezed coconut by adding more water and blending it again. You use the first milk for early cooking and the second thicker milk for flavoring.  Sure is easier to buy it in the can!!  Irene has most of the modern conveniences but prefers the old way in preparing foods.  Today she was preparing calamari curry; this morning she cooked some purple roots which they dug up from the yard yesterday.  She just boiled it and gave it to me for breakfast…not bad, tasted like potatoes.  My stomach is still adjusting to the new food preparations.

Irene never ceases to surprise me in her kitchen duties.  Just as I left her to write in the diary she began to wash the floor.  She dumped a large pan of water on the floor and then used a squeegee to push/pull it out the back door.  The floor is tile and it really worked pretty well.  The squeegee was pretty long and she just pulled and pushed it around the stove, sink, and cabinets.  Ok, so there is now some mud outside that door that we used to come into the kitchen but I guess it will dry pretty quickly.

Tom – Chitra and her husband Sepah picked us up at 10:45 for a swim at the Sinhalese Sport Club on Maitland Ave.  We first picked up their son from his computer class.  He is about 16 and has represented Sri Lanka in junior tennis competition in South Asia.  We were in the pool for about an hour, swam a little and Helen helped Chitra with her stroke and breathing.  She could have a lot of business teaching swimming here!  Afterward they treated us to lunch at the club.  The drink of choice was Bitter Lime and the food a Lumprye.  A Dutch dish consisting of rice, chicken curry, mint curry, beef curry, fish ball and a boiled egg all wrapped in banana leaves.  The dessert was also a Dutch sweet similar in texture to bread pudding but was made with coconut milk and called Watalappam.  Both were excellent!

In the afternoon I took a Tuk-Tuk to the Fulbright office to pick up a fan, iron, cork screw, plastic clothes pins, wipes, itch ointment, maps, hand held fan and a small backpack that the Fulbrighters from Galle had left for us.  As usual, when I waved down the Tuk-Tuk driver I verbally gave him the address of the office.  OK, it’s a given he probably didn’t understand a word I said.  So, I carry slips of paper that have my common destinations written in both English and Sinhalese.  I give it to him.  Does he know how to get there?  Of course!  After some haggling we agree on a price, usually half of what he first asked for, and off we go about a half mile in the wrong direction.  I stop him and show him on my map where I want to go.  OK, he knows the way.  After going another half mile out of the way, I stop him again and start to give him hand signal directions as we drive (I really need to learn some basic Sinhalese).   We arrive at the destination and he wants twice the amount of money that we agreed on because he had to drive so far out of the way – go figure!

Walked to St Theresa for 6:30 mass this evening, it is only about half a mile from our guesthouse.  After we returned I was in our bedroom when Irene walked in followed by Bejet.  She was carrying a small long handled frying pan filled with glowing coconut shells.  Bejet would then pour some powder from a jar onto the coals creating a lot of smoke.  The powder was sanbrane (sp) and acquired from a Buddhist Pharmacy.  When I asked why they were filling the house with smoke, I was given three reasons: (1) mosquitoes (2) incense for the Lord Buddha, and (3) to protect the house from the evil eye.

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A Productive Day

January 18, 2008

Helen – This was a productive day!!  Well, almost !!  We had a 10:00 appointment with the former Secretary to the Minister of Education and Higher Education (Ari) and also a member of the Fulbright Commission.  He had just stepped down from his Ministry position so we were going to meet him at his home.  The Fulbright driver picked us up at 9:20 and not knowing that he recently resigned and took us to the Ministry of Education.  Thank heavens we left early because we corrected him, he double checked and said ok we still have time.  He was unfamiliar with the section of town where we were going and we finally arrived at 11:30 with Tom giving him directions from the map.  We even called the Fulbright office but the man who set up the appointment was in India for 5 days so they couldn’t help us.  Anyway, he had also invited the Director of Education (Physical Education and Sport) and his assistant.  The meeting lasted two hours with a light lunch and it was decided that Tom would help them review the structure of organizing a national PE Association and that he and I would present a work shop sometime in April before we leave.  The ride home was 25 minutes!!!

 

Back in the Fulbright office Tom received an email in the afternoon inviting him to attend and give a presentation at a Fulbright conference in Jaipur, India (northern India) in mid-March.  The commission will cover Tom’s expenses but we will have to pay for me.  Can life get any more confusing or interesting???  The four page registration form and abstract was due on the 22nd.  Problem – the next two days were the weekend and Monday and Tuesday were holidays.  That meant that if he was going to go, he had to do it immediately!  It took him three hours on the ancient computer but he got it done!  It was good to get back to the house, relax watch the Australian Open tennis tournament in Melbourne and go to bed early. 

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Driver’s License and Market Day

January 17, 2008

Tom – I arranged for a car rental firm to pick me up to go look at some of their cars.  Got the specifics and then talked them into giving me a car and driver to go to AAA to get a Sri Lankan license.  I was able to do this because I had already gotten an international driver’s license in Springfield.  The driver walked with me through the process and then dropped me off at the Fulbright office.

 

A couple of hours later I went to an ATM, the embassy, internet café (search for rental cars), bookstore (bought a Sinhalla Phrasebook) and then headed back home very tired.

 

Market Day  Helen – I went to the local market with Ruki and the chauffeur (I really didn’t think he drove anymore!!).  She said she only uses him for close errands.  This was a real experience.  The stalls were all open with venders selling fresh green vegetables, fruits, rice, beans, lentils, dried fish and spices.  I couldn’t recognize half the things.  Flies were everywhere and on everything.  There was also a small super market and a fish store.  I watched as they cleaned fish, squid, and other delicacies.  The next time I went I even had them open up a king coconut for me…you drink the liquid inside with a straw and then he cuts it open for you, cutting a chip from the side which you use as a spoon, you scrap the soft creamy coconut meat inside and eat it.  Don’t think it will be one of my favorites but it was fun to experience.  Ruki kept saying “don’t let the scoopy touch your mouth!!”  Everyone looks at me because I am the only foreigner there…they smile, I smile.  I really like to go.  There is also a very nice temple across the street with a big Buddha inside and lions guarding the gate.

 

Thursday I stayed home after the market, had lunch with Ruki, did some laundry and then relaxed until Tom returned from the Embassy, Fulbright, and errands.  He had a very busy day and was glad not to have me with him.  We finally received confirmation that we will be going to Matara on this coming Wednesday; and then life as normal will begin.

 

 At 6:30 we had a taxi pick us up to have dinner with Traci (Fulbrighter in Management Information Systems from U of Oklahoma), husband Mano and daughter Charia (10).  The taxi arrived on time but he didn’t have working headlights…duh!!!  So, we sent him back to get another taxi and ended up being a little late.  One reason for going to their apartment was to use their cable internet connection, something we have not had access to since our room in Cairo.   Nothing is easy and while Tom was working to set up the diary list I played cards with Charia.

 

We walked to a Chinese restaurant about 4 blocks from their house.  We began with a delicious soup and then shared five different entrees.  After returning to the house, Tom was ready to send the first section of the Sri Lankan diary…opps!  He lost it!!  I didn’t say anything but thought I am not going to rewrite that again!!  Lucky for us Tracy helped him retrieve it after about 15 minutes and then he had to send it in three installments because it would only recognize one page of names at a time. 

 

By now it was pretty late and we needed to get home…they called a taxi for us but it took more than ½ hr to come.  The ride there only took about 10 minutes but home was almost an hour because he didn’t know where he was going and he kept saying this road is closed (there are a lot of roads closed for security) or this is a one way street…we must have gone around the same circle three times.  Tom even showed him the map but he kept driving in circles.  Finally we got home after 11 and woke up Ruki (the maid didn’t get up) to let us in.  We were only able to send the diary – no personal communications.  Don’t know if we will ever be able to upload pictures because the connections are so slow.