The Martin's Blog

Saturday March 6^th – Arrived in Phoenix last night but Helen’s bag did not – long story.  We visited Casa Grande Ruins NM in the morning.  It is the first cultural and prehistoric site to be protected by the US government.  It was set aside in 1892 by President Benjamin Harrison.  The “Great House” is four stories high and was built in 1350 as an astrological center for the Hohokam Indians farming community.  The protective roof was built in 1932.

After driving back to Phoenix to pick up Helen’s bag, which arrived from Detroit at 12:30, we drove to Sonora Desert NM and took a 15.3 mile dirt track to the start of the trail leading to the summit of Table Top Mountain in the like named Wilderness area.  Because of our late start, we had to hustle to complete the 7 mile round trip (ascending over 2000 ft) to the top.  A cacti jumped up and bit the back of my hand on the way up (see pic).  We had a dramatic panorama of rugged mountain ranges and desert plains from the top.  It was dark by the time we got back to I8 and proceeded to the Guest House Inn B & B in Ajo, AZ.

Sunday March 7^th – We woke up to cold and rain but by the time we drove to and went through the Visitors Center of Organ Pipe Cactus NM most of the rain had stopped.  We hooked up with a couple who had stayed at the same B & B (He is the state Grizzly Bear specialist for the state of Montana) and completed the Desert View Nature Trail (1.2 miles), shared a picnic lunch, and drove the Ajo Mountain Drive (21 miles) completing the Arch Canyon trail (2 miles) and the Bull Pasture trail (3 miles).  We had a reservation for an observation program at the Kitt Peak National Observatory (world’s largest collection of optical telescopes) but it was canceled due to the weather so we continued to our Days Inn north of Tucson for the night.

Monday March 8^th – After a 6am continental breakfast, we drove to and through Ironwood Forest NM in cold and rain.  In fact we literally “slid down” one hill on the dirt track, first bouncing off one beveled shoulder and then the other, in our rented Ford Escape SUV.  The Ironwood tree is one of the longest living trees in the Sonora desert.  Ragged Top Mountain is a monument landmark as well as the Silver Bell Mountains for which the still active Silver Bell Copper Mine is named.

 

We continued to the west segment of Saguaro NP, toured the Visitors Center and then drove the Hohokam Road completing the Valley View Overlook trail and the Signal Hill Petroglyphs trail.  Too cold for rattlesnakes, check out the Saguaro cactus skeleton.

 

Just south of Tucson we stopped at the San Xavier del Bac mission.  We had hot beans and cheese on the frybread for lunch (see pic).  Father Kino first visited the O’odham Indian community here in 1692.  The current church dates to the 1820s.  Note the squaw statue in the church.

 

A little further south, we toured the last remaining Titan Missile silo that was part of our nuclear missile deterrent in the 1960s.  It was an impressive tour.  The command center was used for the first Star Trek movie.  Captain Helen at the controls – don’t push that button!

Continuing south, we stopped for a tour of the Tumacacori National Historical Park.  Like San Xavier del Bac, Father Kino, a Jesuit, was responsible for the start of the mission here in 1691.  In 1767 Franciscans took over mission operations.  During a period of exploitation, the Jesuits and Franciscans were often the only ones to have the Indians’ interests at heart.

 

After stopping in a Pawn Shop in the border city of Nogales (can you believe Helen didn’t buy anything!), we drove to and through (dirt track) the Las Cienegas National Conservation Area (NCA).  “Cienegas” means marshlands in Spanish and I had to be careful not to get stuck in the mud.  This NCA consists of rolling grasslands and oak-studded hills that connect “sky island mountain ranges.”  Cienega Creek supports a lush riparian corridor.  Many early western movies (e.g. Red River, The Big Country) were filmed in this area.  After having a humongous Porterhouse Steak we stayed the night in the Sonoita Inn, which had originally been built as a barn to house Secretariat, the famous racehorse, after he was retired.

Tuesday March 9^th – Drove south from Sonoita to Parker Canyon Lake and then took a dirt track called Montezuma Canyon Rd to Coronado National Memorial on the Mexican border.  It was an adventurous trip negotiating the mud, fording the streams and then getting caught in the middle of a Border Patrol search for “illegals” (emigrants or drug dealers).  We were the only ones in the area beside about 20 border control vehicles (some armored) and a helicopter!  After reaching the Memorial (this “Memorial” has the requisites to be a national park), we took a short hike (about 1 mile roundtrip) to the top of Coronado Peak (6,575 ft).  We were surprised to be in snow this far south, when it was in the 60’s back in Ohio!  From the top we could see the new and old sections of the fence built along the U.S. – Mexican border.  There was also Border Control radar set-up in the trail head parking lot.

Illegal immigrant (no birth certificate)

 

After going through the Visitor’s Center in Coronado, we visited the BLM district office in Sierra Vista and then went to the Fairbank Historic Townsite in San Pedro Riparian NCA.  Fairbank is a “ghost town” that began in 1881 when it was the closest railroad stop to Tombstone, then one of the largest western cities (15,000 in 1882). 

Our visit to Tombstone (“The Town Too Tough to Die” and the site of the OK Coral) – the second largest tourist attraction in AZ – behind the Grand Canyon, was less than memorable.  We spent an excessively long half hour paying to see a “re-creation” of Boot Hill and walking downtown among the glitzy tourist traps.  Our recommendation – don’t go there!

 

Our next stop was Chiricahua NM.  I visited this NM with my family in 1966 and was again impressed by the spectacular beauty of the place.  Our time was limited, so we did a loop hike, taking the Echo Canyon trail, then the Hailstone trail and then the Ed Riggs trail (3.1 miles) followed by the Massai Point nature trail.  Again, it was colder than expected (snow on the trail) but we thoroughly enjoyed our hike through the canyon and the balanced rock formations.  This is an “undiscovered jewel” of the national park system and I hope to return again!

We came to AZ to get a break from Winter – it was in the 60’s in OH!!!

Wednesday March 10^th – after spending the night at a Holiday Inn Express in Wilcox, we drove to Fort Bowie National Historic Site.  As we turned on to the dirt road to reach the trail head (40 miles from Wilcox), Helen informs me that her glasses are missing; no where to be found, perhaps she left them by the computer at the Holiday Inn.  OK, let’s think about this.   We drive through Apache Pass (site of wagon train massacre) and then do the 1.5 mile hike past the Butterfield Overland Stage coach station, the fort cemetery (Little Robe, Geronimo’s 2 yr old son, is buried here – Helen’s rock can be seen in the background), the site of the battle of Apache Pass, and the First Fort Bowie ruins to the Visitor Center.  It was a cool crisp morning and the hike with reflection on the historic events that occurred here was invigorating.  We hiked back to the SUV by way of the Overlook Ridge trail (1.5 miles).

Helen searches the SUV and then calls the Holiday Inn.  At first, she can’t get through, so we start driving to New Mexico.  As we approach I10, Helen contacts the hotel and they say they will search for the glasses and call us back.  Long story short, they could not find them.  So, I decide to drive an hour back to Wilcox on the interstate to find the glasses.  We pull into the parking lot and I get out of the SUV to start the search.  As I approach the Holiday Inn door, Helen calls to me that her glasses were under her seat in the SUV!  We silently drove to Silver City, NM. 

 After passing through Silver City, we took State Highway 15 north through the mountains.  It was a windy, at times one lane road, through snowy passes to Gila Cliffs NM.  We watched the video at the Visitor’s Center and then headed for the trail to the Cliff Dwellings.  We were told that we could not do the loop trail through the canyon and then past the ruins because of trail construction.  However, we reversed the loop and did the trail to (and through) the Cliff Dwellings and then down the canyon, bush whacking around the trail bridges that were being reconstructed. 

 

We took a different route back to Silver City (longer but safer) and stayed at the Palace Hotel in the heart of the downtown historic district.  We ate at a great Mexican restaurant called the Jalisco Café (hot stuff!) and then “hit the hay.” 

Thursday March 11^th – I had to scrape snow and ice off the Ford Escape before we headed for the Catwalk National Recreation Trail in Gila National Forest near Glenwood NM and the AZ border. 

 

Along Rt 180 we stopped at a monument to Aldo Leopold.  Aldo was a Forest Ranger in Gila National Forest and in 1924 he persuaded the Forest Service to set aside 755,000 acres as the U.S. and World’s first designated and protected Wilderness!

 

Continuing, we drove to Glenwood and the Catwalk National Recreation Trail.  It is a 2.2 mile (roundtrip) trail that provides a glimpse of historical and culture events that occurred a century ago.  It started when gold and silver were discovered in the area and a mill was built to crush the ore at the bottom of Whitewater canyon.  A pipeline was built, starting 3 miles upstream, to carry water to the mill.  Workmen used to walk up the canyon on the pipe to maintain it – thus the name catwalk.  The mill is gone; remnants of the pipeline remain as well as a beautiful riparian area along Whitewater Creek.

Glenwood New Mexico – how about a 25 cent coffee!

 

We had lunch in Clifton AZ in what appeared to be a dying mining town and then passed through a small part of the Gila Box (River) NCA as we drove the Black Hills Back Country Byway, a 21 mile unpaved road “accessible to high clearance vehicles during dry weather.”  Even though Coronado passed this way in 1540, we would not recommend this road, as the desert scenery is rather boring.  Though I must admit that my impression of the road and area was tempered by being stuck behind a road grader for a half hour despite the fact that there was not another vehicle on the road!  I even got out and ran up to the driver and asked him to move over so I could get by on the one lane road – he refused!  We continued on to Globe AZ where we stayed in a nice B & B called the Dream Manor Inn.

Friday March 12^th – we left Globe at 7:30am to be sure we were on time (had reservations) for our ranger led hike and tour of the Upper Cliff Dwellings at Tonto National Monument.  Access to this site is only offered a few times each week.  The ranger did an outstanding job explaining the flora, fauna and history as our small group climbed the 600 ft (3 miles round trip) to the ruins.  When finished, Helen and I did an additional mile on a paved trail to the Lower Cliff Dwellings. 

 

Afterwards, we drove the Apache Trail Historic Road (Rt 88) down from Roosevelt Lake and dam toward Phoenix.  This Scenic Byway along the Salt River, which was used by the Apaches as they migrated between their winter homes in the high country and their summer homes in the basin, is definitely worth the time and effort.  It is a heavily traveled dirt road (slow) but has spectacular scenery along the river and then through the Superstition Mountains.

 

We next drove through Phoenix and then north to Agua Fria NM.  We had little information about this Bureau of Land Management (BLM) National Monument.  According to the internet description – “it is an expansive mosaic of semi-desert, cut by ribbons of valuable riparian forest and offers one of the most significant systems of prehistoric sites in the American Southwest.”  Our objective was to get to the Pueblo la Plata archeological site and back before dark.  The first part of the Bloody Basin dirt road was rough but then we forded the Agua Fria River on to an unmaintained road.  Even though we had a small SUV, it was only two wheel drive and this road was a real challenge.

 

Long story short, we got stuck about a mile from the pueblo at 5pm.  I stepped out in mud up to my ankles and proceeded to place rocks around all tires.  There was NO ONE around in this wilderness area and I was afraid we would have to spend the night in the vehicle, hike out to get a tow truck the next day and miss our flight home.  I was really upset when the first pavement of rocks didn’t work and we sank deeper in the mud!   At that point I saw a Suburban about a quarter mile away and was able to flag him over to us.  The driver was heavily bearded, packing guns, dressed in camouflage and looked like he would either eat us or be able to help us!   Well, he had a towing strap.  So I crawled in the mud under the car and attached it to my rear axle and then that old beat-up truck (4-wheel drive) was able to pull us out.  As it turned out, the man was hunting coyotes and we were just lucky he was in the area. 

Natural car wash – crossing the Agua Fria River

We got to the Cordes Junction Motel & RV Park after dark.  Though a one star facility, it was an “oasis in the desert” and a place to clean-up!

Saturday March 13^th – We had a couple of extra hours, so I took scenic route 260 and then 87 through Payson to the airport in Phoenix.  As we approached Phoenix I decided to stop at the Fort McDowell Indian Reservation to see if they were selling any Indian crafts.  Low and behold, they were having a flea market!  Though we had only an hour, Helen was in her glory buying a moose pitcher, two pairs of old turquoise earrings, 3 silver pins and a silver button – all for $40!  We were back in Springfield at 10pm – having completed another great Spring Break trip!

Hendrika (Hattie) Ruth Fischer was born Wednesday February 17th at 7:10am.  She weighed 7 lbs 10 oz, was 20 inches long and has loads of black hair!  Baby, mother and family are doing fine!

We “won” our “free” ($400 for two) cruise with air fare by attending a pressure filled travel vacation marketing presentation in Columbus last year.  They made it extremely difficult to actually make the arrangements and discouraged us with various roadblocks along the way.  But we were determined to “make them pay” and our persistence paid off when, after three months, we were finally able to make our reservations.  We decided we would use the cruise to celebrate Helen’s 65th birthday!

We arrived in Fort Lauderdale in time to walk the beach, visit the Swimming Hall of Fame, have dinner at the Bahia Cabana (were we had gone with Chad when he was swimming in the YMCA nationals here in 2001) and then settle into the Best Western Oceanside Inn.

The next morning we were up to walk the beach again, this time in the opposite direction.  Many “Portuguese Man o’ War” (jelly fish) were washed up on the beach.  We walked over the bridge to Walgreens to buy some cruise essentials (e.g. sun tan lotion), had a late second breakfast at the hotel (free) and then were picked up for our drive to the Port of Miami to board the Royal Caribbean “Majesty of the Seas” and join the other 2742 passengers on a cruise to the Bahamas.  We boarded about one o’clock, got settled in our small but nice inside cabin on level 2 (bottom of the boat) and then went up to the 11^th level for lunch at Windjammer food court.  It was good exercise walking up and down the stairs, partially making up for the calories consumed during the voyage!

There was a “Sail Away” party at 5pm after which we went to our assigned dinning room for dinner and then went to the Welcome Aboard show in the evening.  The next morning the ship set anchor off CocoCay, a small Bahamian Island used (owned?) by Royal Caribbean.  We boarded the launch at 9am to spend the day on the island.  It was partly cloudy with the temperature in the high 70’s – perfect for starting our “winter tans” to impress the folks back home.

 

Helen chose to read on the beach while I walked around the island on the fine white sand, waded through the water and picked up some treasures from the sea (shells).  The Cay was bigger than I thought and by the time I got back (about two hours) it was time for our beach Bar BQ.  The afternoon was spent moving from sun to shade and then back again to make sure we were “done on both sides” without burning.  Back on the ship, we dressed for the formal dinner (excellent food!), made a stop at the Casino and then listened to music in the Centrum (like an atrium in the center of the ship) while we played Farkle (dice game).

 

I was up the next morning for sunrise as we cruised into Nassau harbor.  We started the morning doing a little shopping in the market (Helen bought a “real” Coach purse for $20!) and then walked to and toured Fort Charlotte, an English fort built in the late 1780’s. 

 

After lunch on the boat, we walked to Atlantis, a luxury resort on Paradise Island.  We walked through the Casino with its three Chihuly glass chandeliers (worth one million each!) and then took a tour of the aquarium and marine sanctuary.  The underground (underwater) views were amazing.  It is one of the finest facilities we have seen.

We took a small Bahamian sea taxi back to the ship while a local entertained us with verbal tidbits related to Nassau harbor and another broke open a conch, which he had just pulled up from the sea floor by the dock, and ate it raw.  After boarding the ship, we listened to a Reggae band by the pool, had dinner, saw the show (comedian was quite good) and packed for our trip home. 

We arrived in Miami at 7am, hooked up with another couple for a van ride to the Fort Lauderdale airport, arrived in Columbus at 4:30, picked up Kate’s dog Casey and were home at 6:30 for the national news – rested, refreshed and ready for spring!

We had a wonderful Christmas with the entire family here for the day.

We woke up to a winter wonderland this morning and decided to take the short drive to Clifton Gorge State Nature Preserve.  We hiked the trail to John Bryan State Park and back (3 miles) and then had breakfast at Clifton Mill.

October 17 – Southern Boil 

Harold made a SC “Low Country” dinner for Irmi’s 65th birthday – it’s called Southern Boil.  Recipe includes corn on the cob, potatoes, sausage, shrimp, crab and a seasoning.  It was great!!!

 October 18 – Mount Le Conte in Great Smoky Mountains National Park

I had to make the reservation for a cabin at Mt LeConte Lodge on top of the mountain a year in advance because the prime dates (e.g. Fall colors) are booked that far in advance.  Going south, we had anticipated warmer weather and Fall colors.  We got cold and white!   Fortunately, we drove up Newfound Gap Road in Great Smoky Mountains NP from the southeast (Cherokee) because the same road from the northwest (Gatlinburg) was closed because of snow/ice.  The only way to reach the Lodge is by trail.  There is no electricity and the Lodge is supplied by llamas.  We took the Alum Cave Bluff Trail, the shortest (5 miles) and steepest (about 2800 ft gain in elevation).

The trail was snow covered and slippery but quite beautiful as we hiked along a mountain creek and then up to Alum Cave Bluff.

As we gained elevation there was more snow.  Instead of Fall colors, we were treated to a winter wonderland.

Bear poop on the now icy trail – must have enjoyed the berries from the previous photo!

Cables at exposed parts of the trail were important for safety.  We were also thankful that we had the foresight to bring our hiking poles to help with balance and prevent slipping.

We made it to the Lodge and cabins in about three hours and were happy we had a warm building to “dry out” our clothes and boots.

The date was actually October 18th, must have been too cold for them to change it that day!

Our cozy (with propane stove!) cabin.  Didn’t do much rocking on the front porch!  After a family style dinner in the Lodge, we were treated to a park ranger talk on the history of the park.

When I got up about 3am to go to the outhouse, I found that the storm had blown through and though cold (13 degrees) the sky was crystal clear with a fantastic display of stars!

October 19 – Sunrise, Descent, from Mount Le Conte, and Drive and Hike to Charit Creek Lodge in Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area

We were up a 6:30 to take the mile hike to Myrtle Point for the Sunrise.  It was spectacular!  First the gold/orange/red glow, then sunrise, then the morning glow on the newly fallen snow.

The storm had produced interesting snow formations that stood out horizontally from branches and leaves.

After a hearty breakfast at the Lodge we headed down on what was to be the most dangerous part of the trip.  The trail was treacherous due to the ice and we both slipped several times (wished we had brought our crampons!).  We caught up to the ranger and as we descended and met people coming up, he advised them not to continue above Alum Cave Bluff due to the ice.

Descending through Arch Rock.

As we hiked down the mountain, the sun rose higher in the sky and the snow fell from the trees like rain.

View looking east toward the mountain under clear skies.

After a four hour drive, we were stiff and sore when we got out of the truck at the entrance to the Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area in northern TN.

Big South Fork Cumberland River.

We took part of the scenic Twin Arch loop trail (2 miles) to descend to the rustic Charit Creek Lodge.

October 20 – Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area

Our cabin could sleep 12 in three double bunk beds and was heated by a wood burning stove.  The stove burned out during the night so we stayed under our three woolen blankets until breakfast at 8am.

After breakfast, we continued and completed the Twin Arch Loop Trail (another 4 miles) on a beautiful Fall day.

View from top of South Arch.

Arrived at Kayak Chicago, located off North Ave on the north branch of the Chicago River, at 9:30, signed our waiver, got our equipment together, listened to the instructions from the guide and were on the water at 10:15.  We paddled south to Wolf Point where the Merchandise Mart is located and then through the “Loop” and skyscraper canyon to Wabash Ave.  It was Labor Day weekend so there were lots of tour boats and waves to contend with downtown.  We got back to our put in location about 1:30.  Our guide did a nice job of covering interesting architectural/history topics along our 5.5 mile route.

Our wedding anniversary is June 8^th but we celebrated on June 9^th and 10^th with a trip to KY.  We began with a visit to Fort Boonesborough (1775) SP which was of interest because of its connection to famous pioneers Daniel Boone and Simon Kenton who lived in Springfield.

 

We shared a four course dinner at the Jean Farris Winery & Bistro on the Old Richmond road south of Lexington and then drove to downtown Lexington to walk through the Gratz Park Historic District where Transylvania University is located.  Afterward, we drove about 12 miles north to the Jordan Farm B & B which is a small working horse farm.

 

On June 10^th we started the day with a walk around Jordan Farm and then spent most of the day touring the Kentucky Horse Park.  We saw the Hall of Champions show, Mare & Foal show, Parade of Breeds, International Museum of the Horse and finished by watching (in the rain) some of the jumping competition that was taking place in several of the outdoor arenas.  The world Equestrian championships will be held here in 2010 – the first time ever in the U.S.

 

We took a short side trip to the Woodford Reserve Distillery, famous for its top shelf Kentucky bourbon, before driving back to Ohio.

We boarded the Fast Cat II at 7:30am in Key West for our 2.5 hour trip (70 miles) to Dry Tortugas National Park.  Ponce De Leon named these islands “Las Tortugas” – Spanish for “the turtles.”  The cluster of seven islands, composed of coral reefs and sand, became known as Dry Tortugas on mariners’ charts because they offered no fresh water.  They are the western most of the Florida Keys.  Fort Jefferson on Garden Key was started in 1846 to protect shipping through the Gulf of Mexico to the Mississippi.  It is the largest brick structure in the US and was used as a Union military prison during the Civil War.  Perhaps its most famous resident was Dr. Samuel Mudd who was convicted of complicity in the assassination of Abraham Lincoln.  There were many Frigate birds hovering over the fort – some with 6-7 foot wingspans.

 

 

 

 

We took a tour of the fort, had lunch on the boat, and then went snorkeling.  Mike and I snorkeled almost entirely around the fort (island) keeping close to the walls where there were many corals, sea fans, anemones and fish.  I had a little excitement when I almost ran into a Portuguese Man or War and then noticed a three foot Barracuda following me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

After returning to Key West and showering, we went to Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville restaurant.  Of course we had to have the mandatory margarita and chose to share the Volcano Nachos for dinner.  This is considered a “starter” but we were unable to finish the whole thing.  However, after taking an hour walk along Duval Street, we returned to share a piece of key lime pie!

 

We met ranger Dan at 8:15am at Nine Mile Pond in Everglades NP for our guided tour of the Canoe Trail.   

It was great fun canoeing by the alligators on the pond and then through the mangroves.

 Afterward, we drove to downtown Key West and walked to Mallory Square to watch the performers and sunset.