The Martin's Blog

Tom – I was supposed to again work on the Wittenberg connection problems at the university but I have lost patience.  I spent most of the day at home doing my Power Point presentation from scratch.  It won’t be fancy but I should be able to cover my bases.

Breakfast overlooking the Indian Ocean

Helen – HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO ME!!!  We decided that today we would not go into the university so I thought it would be a “nothing new to write home about day.”  Wrong!!

First – someone stole my boogie board!!!  Boy was I mad this morning when we went out for our walk and found someone had taken it from inside our gated back/beach yard.  I hope that they enjoy it and you know that I will be watching to see if someone is using it!!

Second – also on our walk we noticed a little old lady with a big bag of something on her head.  She was walking toward the east rock headland for our beach (it is a natural rock area).  When we made our second round we noticed she was sitting in the water with her long skirt all wet digging for something and moving these rocks around.  We walked up closer and she begins talking to us but of course we can’t understand a word.  Tom assumes that she needs some help, so he starts to gather some rocks from another area and she motions him “NO,NO.”  It seems that she is burying coconut shells in the mud and then piles rocks on them so the water won’t take them away.  Tom was going into another cache.  After she finished burying the shells, she went to another area and started digging up shells which she had buried days before.  These were pretty black looking and decomposed.  She ripped the bark off then took the fiber bundle and pounded it with a stick on a rock until it separated and spread apart.  Then she took this and washed it in the water to get all the dirt out and laid it next to the bag to take home.  Ok, now that I knew what she was doing, I just jumped right in there and started washing the fiber bundles, wringing them out, and piling them up on the rocks.  The second round I had the job of stripping off the barks and washing the fiber bundles.  She then showed me how she twisted the fibers to make rope and indicated that the rest of the fibers would be made into brooms.  While I was working, Tom went back to the house for the camera (first morning he didn’t bring it with him) and she kept talking to me like we were best friends.  A man that we met on the beach a few days ago walked over to us and he translated for me.  I told her I would see her in a few days.

Local reef fisherman, floats on his inner tube and nets fish, crabs, etc.

Third – I forgot to mention that yesterday on our walk we saw a fishing boat come up on shore.  There were several men waiting for them because they needed help pulling the boat up on the shore.  We stopped to see what they caught and Tom took their picture then we helped them with the boat.  It was really heavy because it was wood and it had an outdoor motor on the back.  They offered to sell us a fish for $2 or $4 for a kilo…since we didn’t know what kind of fish it was, we declined.  A lot of the fish caught are only good for curries or stewing, not for grilling.

Fourth – Kamala (surrogate landlady), a young newly ordained English teacher for translation, accompanied by a workman came to do some required chores.  The workman was to fix the toilet that wouldn’t flush, to install a hot water system for one bathroom, and fix the fan in the dining area which only had 1 speed, very slow.  The shower situation got a little tricky.  Most of the bathrooms have a little hot water tank in the bathroom and you put on the switch about 10 minutes before you need hot water.  Remember we have three bathrooms, two that are enclosed and one that has no ceiling (just a few wooden slates across the top).  You can guess which one has the only electrical outlet.  We said, we didn’t think it was a good idea to put the hot water in there, because during the rainy season who will want to take a shower in that bathroom??  They said that the owner specifically said that was the correct one.  They called him back and worked it out.  Are you ready for the solution???  They put in another shower head in the covered part of the bathroom, but now the water will splash over the sink, toilet and the whole floor will get wet.  You got it, no shower curtain over there and the shower stall still remains.

Fifth – this fellow was also supposed to fix the ceiling light by the front door so that when you come into the house you have light.  He replaced the bulb and then we discovered that it blinks on when someone rings the doorbell.  Can’t people hear the bell?  Do they need a light to signal it as well??

Sixth – I decided that our beach needed an environmental clean-up.  I cleaned up the plastic bags, plastic ice cream spoons, toothbrushes (we often see the villagers brushing their teeth on the beach, go figure) paper, and just general debris.  When I got close to our wall, I found a long; I mean long, snake skin.  It really freaked me out!!!

Seventh – we decided to go swimming again and noticed that there were lots of boys and girls down at one end of the beach.  First we thought that they we pulling the fishing nets in…when Tom checked it out, seems they were from the university having an initiation ritual from one of the departments.  Girls and boys were fully clothed, playing with a ball in the waves, throwing each other into the waves, burying people in the sand and throwing sand all over one another.

Eighth – I walked over to the hotel to have a look.  Renata (Polish) and her husband, Bobby (Sri Lankan) who live in Switzerland have just finished building the hotel.  I mentioned it was too bad that we didn’t meet a few days earlier and missed the party.  She replied, yes it was.  They didn’t send out invitations, just told everyone to come over and we should have just stopped in.  Anyway, this hotel is really nice…the rooms are quite large, each with a private bath, big windows overlooking the ocean because they are on a hill, and comfortable new mattresses (this is really unusual).  The lobby is an outdoor area under a roof, as is the restaurant area.  One balcony will be having a billiards table, and eventually there will be a Jacuzzi on the rooftop.  Bobby’s brother Luke will be taking care of the hotel when they are in Zurich.  The rooms are now renting for $20/night…remember that I told you that some of the top hotels in Colombo were renting for $75-80/night.  They plan to bring in tourists from Switzerland.  About half the cost of flying in from the U.S.

Ninth – We needed to go back into town to grocery shop and see when Mass was for tomorrow morning.  The Food City was packed and the parking area isn’t very large.  We noticed a policeman in the lot when we arrived and thought he was for security.  When we came out, he was directing traffic in the parking lot and telling you how and where to park.  OK, they really needed it with the three-wheelers, motorcycles and cars all trying to squeeze in there.

Tenth and Last – Tom took me out for dinner in the little restaurant next door to the hotel and behind our house.  We had asked them to cook for us earlier in the day: wanting grilled fish (rockfish which has lots of meat and few bones), vegetable rice, and potato curry.  It was delicious.  The fish was not grilled but steamed in foil and nicely seasoned.  We brought our own beer and as I am writing this, Tom is sleeping on the bed in the study.  I had a great day but really missed my family and friends on my day!!

Tom – I arranged for a car rental firm to pick me up to go look at some of their cars.  Got the specifics and then talked them into giving me a car and driver to go to AAA to get a Sri Lankan license.  I was able to do this because I had already gotten an international driver’s license in Springfield.  The driver walked with me through the process and then dropped me off at the Fulbright office.

A couple of hours later I went to an ATM, the embassy, internet café (search for rental cars), bookstore (bought a Sinhalla Phrasebook) and then headed back home very tired.

Market Day  Helen – I went to the local market with Ruki and the chauffeur (I really didn’t think he drove anymore!!).  She said she only uses him for close errands.  This was a real experience.  The stalls were all open with venders selling fresh green vegetables, fruits, rice, beans, lentils, dried fish and spices.  I couldn’t recognize half the things.  Flies were everywhere and on everything.  There was also a small super market and a fish store.  I watched as they cleaned fish, squid, and other delicacies.  The next time I went I even had them open up a king coconut for me…you drink the liquid inside with a straw and then he cuts it open for you, cutting a chip from the side which you use as a spoon, you scrap the soft creamy coconut meat inside and eat it.  Don’t think it will be one of my favorites but it was fun to experience.  Ruki kept saying “don’t let the scoopy touch your mouth!!”  Everyone looks at me because I am the only foreigner there…they smile, I smile.  I really like to go.  There is also a very nice temple across the street with a big Buddha inside and lions guarding the gate.

Thursday I stayed home after the market, had lunch with Ruki, did some laundry and then relaxed until Tom returned from the Embassy, Fulbright, and errands.  He had a very busy day and was glad not to have me with him.  We finally received confirmation that we will be going to Matara on this coming Wednesday; and then life as normal will begin.

 At 6:30 we had a taxi pick us up to have dinner with Traci (Fulbrighter in Management Information Systems from U of Oklahoma), husband Mano and daughter Charia (10).  The taxi arrived on time but he didn’t have working headlights…duh!!!  So, we sent him back to get another taxi and ended up being a little late.  One reason for going to their apartment was to use their cable internet connection, something we have not had access to since our room in Cairo.   Nothing is easy and while Tom was working to set up the diary list I played cards with Charia.

We walked to a Chinese restaurant about 4 blocks from their house.  We began with a delicious soup and then shared five different entrees.  After returning to the house, Tom was ready to send the first section of the Sri Lankan diary…opps!  He lost it!!  I didn’t say anything but thought I am not going to rewrite that again!!  Lucky for us Tracy helped him retrieve it after about 15 minutes and then he had to send it in three installments because it would only recognize one page of names at a time. 

By now it was pretty late and we needed to get home…they called a taxi for us but it took more than ½ hr to come.  The ride there only took about 10 minutes but home was almost an hour because he didn’t know where he was going and he kept saying this road is closed (there are a lot of roads closed for security) or this is a one way street…we must have gone around the same circle three times.  Tom even showed him the map but he kept driving in circles.  Finally we got home after 11 and woke up Ruki (the maid didn’t get up) to let us in.  We were only able to send the diary – no personal communications.  Don’t know if we will ever be able to upload pictures because the connections are so slow.

Tom – The big news today was that 27 people were killed and 63 injured when a bus was blown up at 7:30 this morning; an additional 5 were shot trying to escape the bus.  This makes the description of our day seem rather unimportant.  Had meetings at the Fulbright, computer work, shops, US Embassy and back to the guesthouse.

Helen – The Fulbright computers drive me nuts!!!  I spent over an hour still trying to get our family and diary lists in order so we can send the diary from my email.  Ate lunch at one of the little food courts, it seems we feel safe ordering fried egg rolls though each one is different.

We looked again for a translation dictionary in several stores to no avail, also still looking for adapters, and finally walked over to the embassy to do a little shopping; peanut butter and raspberry jam, some rum for our house lady, some crackers, beer for Rohana, and a few other things.  We were supposed to have dinner with Rohana but he got the flu and had to postpone.

We took a Tuk-Tuk to the waterfront to walk; we were too late for the sunset but it was still enjoyable.  There were venders selling cooked crabs, shrimp, and some other things.  We were tempted but decided it wasn’t worth it.  Afterwards we went into the Galle Face Hotel to look around; while we were there we saw a wedding procession.  First the dancers and drummers danced and played taking the families into the reception hall; then they repeated the ritual for the bride.  She was lovely.  Tom took a short video of it.  We decided to have a small meal at the German Restaurant across the street.  Didn’t really taste too German to me but Tom enjoyed his soup and I my vegetable casserole with mustard sauce.    

Tom – It is a Hindu harvest festival honoring the Sun God.  It’s a holiday and many people have taken a four day weekend.  Helen and I walked for about an hour this morning and then she went to the market with Ruki and I moved all our things to a downstairs bedroom where we will stay whenever we are in Colombo.  It is more basic, more bugs but cheaper. 

For me most of the day was spent on the computer.  Helen read and worked some on the computer as well.  She is complaining a lot and says she can’t wait till we get to Matara and are settled.  I think the truth of the matter is we will never be settled here.  We have good accommodations in Colombo.  If we have something half as good in Matara, I will be happy.

Helen – It was a holiday so traffic was minimal and so nice for a change.  I have finally returned to walking in the morning and exploring the area around our guesthouse.  The first day I walked alone but the next two days Tom joined me.  The first day I walked to the cultural center where we saw the opera and wanted to walk around.  So, I asked the guard at the gate if I could and I thought he waved me in.  After going around several times and starting to leave, I was stopped by a big car and the gentleman called me over…said no walking here.  I explained that I had asked permission and he said he was the director and I had to leave.  Oh well, I had done it and won’t return.

Ranjan picked us up at 7:45 for dinner at an Indian restaurant called the Mango Tree.  It is reported to be the best in town.  He ordered for us, some appetizers first which were a flakey little round bread which we broke and dipped into a mint or tumeric sauce, sort of like salsa and chips at home.  Then the main course was grilled chicken, spinach and cottage cheese, and a shrimp curry sauce.  They were served with bread very similar to a tortilla.  The waiter served each onto our plates then we broke off the bread with our hands and dipped into the sauces and ate.  No utensils, it was fun.  Afterwards they brought warm water with lime to wash our hands.  Most people eat with their hands; they just mix the food and rice together and use their fingers to scoop and push it in their mouth with their thumb.  It gets messy at times, especially when they talk with their mouths full.

After dinner Ranjan took us to the Cinnamon Hotel which was totally unbelievable.  I have never seen anything so opulent.  It was elegant beyond belief.  Your car was parked by valet under a very large canopy and the hotel was ablaze with lights.  The lobby was huge with many small groupings of tables and chairs.  In the center was a raised platform with a band that was quite good playing our music from Abba to Tom Jones.  We did a little tour walking outside to a beautiful lower level with a pond that was aglow in lights.  Tables with candles and a bar surrounded parts of the pond that had big coy fish swimming and many turtles.  We returned to the lobby to listen to the band and sip hot cocoa while sampling some very tasty desserts.  A room at the hotel was $85, at home it would have been more like $300.

That was the high for the day, now the low.  Yesterday we moved to the lower level of the same house because now our rent went from $35 to $20 per day (we are on a fixed income!).  The bedroom is comfortable though the mattress not as good.  The bathroom is large with an older tub and shower.  In the afternoon we thought it was adequate but that night when we were getting ready for bed…Ugh!!  Huge, I mean huge, cockroaches at least three inches long were on the wall and sink.  I called Tom to come and get them.  I am not a good aim with a shoe and broke a window in Iran that way trying to get those buggers.  It was a little unsettling but we went to sleep making sure the bathroom door was closed tight.