Posts Tagged ‘camping’

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NP and BLM Sites – OR to OH

October 19, 2025

9/29 M – 5.5hrs (300mi) from Kate to Oregon Caves National Monument and PRES.

Helen and I visited on 6/24/2007 and stayed in the Chateau near the Visitor Center. Partial view of the black PT Cruiser we rented.

Description: We arrived at Oregon Caves at 5pm wanting to take the candlelight tour that we thought was at 6pm.  We found that they now only do that tour on Friday and Saturday evenings – so we went on the 90-minute guided tour at 5:30. The cave is still very active (42o) with many glistening formations.  Unlike many caves we have visited, here you could often reach out and touch the impressive formations (which of course you are not supposed to do).  At times the passage was so tight it was hard to avoid bumping into the walls.  We spent the night in the 1934 Chateau (Lodge) at the caves.  The stone retaining walls, parapet walls, trout pools and waterfalls were constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930’s.  We selected the Florentine Trout for dinner and then played cards with a couple from Oklahoma who were touring on their motorcycle.

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On this trip I wanted to get a photo of the Oregon Caves National Monument and Preserve sign

As well as spend some time in the Visitor Center. Eijah Davidson found the caves in 1874 – he stumbled on an opening while chasing after his dog Bruno.

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This display shows a three-dimensional view of the cave passages.

Two-dimensional representation

It was a cold and rainy day –

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1.5hrs to Redwood National and State Parks in CA. They are managed cooperatively by the NPS and the CA Department of Parks and Recreation.

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Emelia Earhart Memorial Grove 2025

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We have visited Redwood NP three times. In this Blog description, I will review our visits from North to South. In 2007, we drove the Howland Hill Rd through Jedediah Smith Redwoods SP.

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We stopped (2025) at the Park Headquarters in Crescent City CA to collect information. We visited the Battery Point Lighthouse (1856), which is nearby, in 2007. We were able to walk across an inlet to the lighthouse because it was low tide.

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In 1969, when driving from Seattle to San Francisco for a wedding, we stopped at a couple of commercial areas along Rt-101 – “World Famous Tree House.”

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Chandelier Tree, if you look closely, we had skis on the back of the VW Bug. Well, I was so excited to drive through the tree that I forgot about that – the skis were ripped off the back of the car! Fortunately, they were not damaged.

Two photos along Rt-101 – the Redwood Highway. In 2007, we stopped at a Yurok Indian smoke house and bought some smoked salmon for lunch (here they use redwood in the smoking process).  

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Coastal View from Rt-101

Lions, the state animal of CA, on the old Douglas Memorial Bridge near Klamath (2007). Bridge destroyed by flood in 1964.

In a 1903 speech, Teddy Roosevelt urged protection of the giant trees. John Muir is fourth from right.

Sequoia and Redwood Compared

We did the Lady Bird Johnson Grove 1-mile Loop Trail in both 1969 and 2007.

This year (2025), we did a nice hike on the beach at the Kuchel Visitor Center near Redwood Creek.

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Condor wingspan – I am still looking for one in the wild!

Cannot leave a beach without a souvenir!

Trinidad State Beach

We made an unplanned stop in Humbolt Redwoods SP the next day – see below.

Stayed in a Best Western in Eureka CA

9/30 Tu – CA Headwaters Forest Reserve (FR), This BLM Redwoods site is only 19-miles S of Eureka

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The BLM has classified this site as an Outstanding Natural Area (ONA).

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We did a very enjoyable 2+ mile morning walk on the paved part of the Elk River Trail

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Side hike to the site of the Webb’s house, now gone

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Caretakers of the history of the forest

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The Headwaters Education Center tells the story of the forest –

It was a locomotive barn in the town of Falk.

The logging and lumber mill town of Falk is on the National Register of Historic Places.

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Returning to the trailhead –

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It took 2-hours to drive S on Rt-101 and then W on secondary roads to Cape Mendocino – the furthest western point of the Continental USA – see top left of map.

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Proceeded S to Petrolia

Then W to the Punta Gorda Region in King Range NCA

“The King Range National Conservation Area (NCA) is a spectacular meeting of land and sea as mountains thrust straight out of the surf with King Peak (4,088 feet) only three miles from the ocean. The King Range NCA encompasses 68,000 acres along 35 miles of California’s north coast. The landscape was too rugged for highway building, giving the remote region the title of California’s Lost Coast. It is the Nation’s first NCA, designated in 1970.”  View of Mattole River and Estuary.

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We continued on a gravel road to Mattole Beach in the King Range NCA.

Campground and Trailhead –

Raining and Cold!

Backtracked toward Petrolia, then drove S to Honeydew and E to Humbolt Redwoods SP.

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We had not intended on stopping here but could not resist doing a loop trail in the Rockefeller Redwood Forest.

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This is an “Old Growth Forest”

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This hike made for a more difficult late-night drive to Lassen NP, but it was worth it –

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Check out the colors –

We now had a 250-mile drive to Lassen Volcanic NP. We arrived at the north entrance at about 11pm and went searching for our cabin at Manzanita Lake. After driving the loop twice in a light rain, I decided to walk the loop using the light from my phone. Finally, I found #8, a bare bones cabin with no water, but it did have two thin mattresses where we could lay our sleeping bags.

10/1 W – Jay and I visited Lassen Volcanic NP in 1967. Lassen Peak (10,457ft) is part of the Pacific Ring of Fire surrounding the Pacific Ocean. It last erupted 1914-1916.

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Our first hike was 2.6-miles rt to the Bumpass Hell thermal area.

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Photo of Lassen Peak from Lake Helen – Then we did the 2.5-mile trail to the top of the Lassen Peak (2K gain) and then had a race running down the scree on the slopes of the dormant volcano. That is no longer allowed, now you must take the trail down. Lassen Peak from Lake Helen –

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Today, 10/1/25, was a cold, rainy, windy day and it limited our activities. Photo of our cabin –

NW Park entrance sign –

Loomis Museum

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Driving Rt-89, the park road, through the park at the speed limit would take 1.5 hours. Of course, you SHOULD stop, enjoy the scenery, read descriptive signs/markers, take a walk, hike to a geologic feature, etc. This photo was taken near the highpoint (8,753ft) of the park road.

Park Signs/Markers were very informative – 

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Photos taken at Lake Helen, the trailhead for the Bumpass Hell thermal area –

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Boiling Mud Pot –

Lassen Volcanic NP – “Hot Spots”

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The Kohm Yah-Mah-Nee Visitor Center was closed, because of the government shut down, but a maintenance man was kind enough to bring out the park stamp so we could use it on our brochure. The above were my last two photos before leaving the park for Reno NV. We then took I-80 east to Elko NV where we had a reservation at the Esquire Inn.

10/2 Th – Lost one hour going from Pacific Coast time CA to Mountain time. Arrived at Golden Spike NHS in UT at 2pm.

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I was here in 1991 and saw a re-enactment of the meeting of the steam engines “Jupiter” (Central Pacific RR) and #119 (Union Pacific RR) at Promontory Summit marking the completion of a U.S. transcontinental railroad (1869).

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Today, because of the government shutdown, the Visitor Center was not open and there was no re-enactment of the symbolic tapping of a golden spike to commemorate the completion of the continent-spanning (1,776-miles) railroad line. 

Our first stop in the NHS was at the Big Fill. Using picks and shovels, carts, and one-horse scrapers the laborers filled huge ravines.

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Using picks and shovels, carts, and one-horse scrapers, the laborers filled huge ravines.

Visitor Center

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The Southern Pacific RR, formerly the Central Pacific RR, Monument was constructed in 1916. It was moved, repaired, and restored in 2001.

Workers Monument – to Chinese, Irish, German and Italian immigrant laborers.

Original Rail

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Evolution of the Rail

“The last tie laid on completion of the Pacific Railroad May 1869.”

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UT State Quarter 2007

2007 50 State Quarters Coin Utahuncirculated Reverse

After a 135-mile drive, we arrived at Fossil Butte NM in southwest WY about 4pm.

On 9/30/2007, “almost exactly” eighteen years ago, I did the 2.5-mile Historic Quarry Trail.

2025 view of Fossil Butte from the West –

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View from the Visitor Center

The signs along the entrance walk cover millions of years and highlight the Cenozoic Era (last 65 million years) – The Age of Mammals.

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Landscape and Quarries

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Starting on the Scenic Drive

Helen and I did the 1.5-mile Fossil Lake Loop Trail

Markers along the trail highlight plants and animals –  

The trail winds through a high desert landscape

Reached the highpoint of the trail as the sun was starting to set in the west –

Descended through a golden aspen grove, that is sustained by hillside springs.

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Sage Country Oasis – Aspen trees reproduce through root sprouts. So, each new tree is a clone of the parent, therefore, they are a single organism.

2.5hrs to West Valley City UT, a suburb of Salt Lake City, where we came upon the Kabul Kitchen. It is an Afghani store/restaurant. It was ready to close, but we explained how we had traveled through Afghanistan and experienced the 1978 Now Ruz Celebration (New Year – first day of Spring) in Kabul. The country’s biggest celebration of the year! The following is a major diversion from this post.

Story – We joined several thousand people at the Fairgrounds outside of Kabul on March 21st. There were carnival rides and circus performances. Two men (no electricity) powered the Ferris Wheel. It was about 40ft tall with one of the seats occupied by two other men – one beat a drum and the other played a flute. They provided the music to accompany the ride! There were various contests including wrestling and weight-lifting, as well as races – human, horse, dog, and camel. In addition, you could bet on various cock, dog, and camel fights. The reason I mention this is because I happened to speak with an Afghan Army officer. I told him we would be driving through the Salang Tunnel to Kunduz. He stated that the Soviets built the Salang Tunnel, through the Himalayan Mountains north of Kabul, so their forces could someday easily invade the country.

A little Afghan History – in 1973, Army General and prince Mohammad Daoud Khan orchestrated a coup to overthrow his cousin King Mohammad Zahir Shah. He established the Republic of Afghanistan. He held power until April 1978, one month after our visit, when pro-Communist rebels stormed the palace in Kabul and killed him and his family. One year later, on Christmas Day 1979, the Soviet invasion began. The main route of the invasion was through the Salang Tunnel.

A little Iranian History – the Iranian Revolution began in 1978. Helen, Stacy, and Peter were evacuated from Iran, with embassy employees, on December 9, 1978. On January 16, 1979, the Shah left Iran with his family for exile in Egypt. I was able to escape from Iran on a Finnish flight evacuating their embassy on January 18, 1979. That is a long story! The Iranian Revolution ended on February 1, 1979, when Imam Khomeini arrived in Tehran from Paris.

Now back to 2025, the Kabul Kitchen stayed open to prepare Lamb Shank Kabuli take-out dinners for us! We also purchased Sohan, which is a Persian candy, to sooth our sweet tooth. Took our treats to the Holiday Inn Express for consumption.

10/3 F – Breakfast at the hotel, followed by a 45-min drive into the Wasatch Mountains to Timpanogos Cave NM

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Our first visit was in 1968 when we hiked the steep 1.5-mile trail ascending 1,092ft to the cave entrance at 6,730ft for the ranger tour.

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I had “slow film” in my camera resulting in blurry photos. Photo of Hidden Lake –

Photo of the Great Heart of Timpanogos –

Unfortunately, the Visitor Center and Cave were closed today because of a Government Shutdown. FYI – the tour is 3.5-hours with a cost of $12 for an adult ticket.  

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Aspen – starting our drive to Dinosaur NM in UT –

My mother, brothers, and I visited Dinosaur NM on 8/19/1966. We visited the Quarry Visitor Center and tent camped on the Green River at the Split Mountain campground.

In 1992, Helen, Kate, Chad, Manuel (student from the Canary Islands), and I did a rafting trip on the Green River north of the National Monument. JWP stands for John Wesley Powell National Conservation Area (NCA), which we visited on this trip.

Another family with two kids joined us, so we had two rafts.

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Beach stop for lunch –

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Brief Storm “Vega” Approaching –

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Stop at Hot Springs –

After we got through the storm and finished several rapids, we split and put the four kids in the small raft so they could paddle and float the river with their new friends.

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Chad “Loved” Dinosaurs, so we stopped at the Utah Field House of Natural History State Park Museum in Vernal UT.

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Next stop the Quarry Visitor Center in Dinosaur NM. Followed by the Fossil Discovery Trail to the Dinosaur Quarry Exhibit Hall, where they continue to excavate fossils.

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That was followed by a 12-mile drive on Cub Creek Road.  We stopped several times and did a short hike to the Petroglyphs near the end of the road.

On this visit (2025), we took US-40 East to Jensen UT, where they have a “formerly rideable” Brontosaurus Dinosaur. People would sit on the neck to have their photo taken. Now, there is a fence to discourage that –

Next – RT-149 N, to a fork and a newly constructed sign for Dinosaur NM.

We returned to the fork, made a right turn onto Brush Creek Road, to Diamond Mountain Road, to Island Park Road, to access the NM’s sites north of the Green River – see Map, some roads were not marked.

This marker describes the “Bone Wars”

“Wash Board” road, made for a bumpy ride –

Tilted Rocks

Approaching the McKee Springs Petroglyphs

0.3-mile loop trail

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These are some of the finest large human-like Freemont designs in this area.

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Finishing the loop trail

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Rainbow Park Viewpoint –

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Cottonwood and perhaps Boxelder trees on Green River

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Ruple Ranch

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The Sequoia DID NOT get through this brush unscathed – my bad!

Near Big Island Campsite

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One of my objectives for this trip was to complete my goal of visiting all 19 BLM National Conservation Areas (NCAs). John Wesley Powell NCA was number 19.

I have indicated my access point on the above map. It was difficult to determine how I could access the NCA.

Opening the gate between Dinosaur NM and the John Wesley Powell NCA –

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On March 12, 2019, Public Law 116-9, the John D. Dingell, Jr. Conservation, Management, and Recreation Act was enacted. The Act will conserve, protect and enhance significant historic, cultural, natural, scientific, scenic, recreational, archaeological, educational, and wildlife resources on 29,868 acres of the John Wesley Powell National Conservation Area. 

Looking toward the Diamond Mountain Plateau –

Leaving the NCA –

It was late by the time we started east on US-40. We drove to the east side of Denver and stopped in a Sleep Inn motel about midnight.

10/4 Sa – 730-miles to Columbia MO, Quality Inn (I-70)

10/5 Su – 500-miles to Springfield OH (I-70)

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BLM and NP Sites OH to OR

September 30, 2025

9/15/2025 M – Start of 7,388-mile trip to Portland OR and West Coast. Drove 500 miles to Kingdom City MO, parked behind a motel to sleep.

9/16 Tu – Drove 12 hours (750mi) to Dearfield Black Community, a proposed NHS, east of Greely CO. Photos around 7pm, with a storm on the way.

Dearfield was an African-American Agricultural Colony started by Oliver Toussaint Jackson in 1909. By 1920, Dearfield had over 200 residents. There are three remaining buildings: a gas station diner and what is left of Jackson’s home. After the “Dust Bowl” (1940), only 12 people remained.

NPS and CO state grants are being used to stabilize the site.

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Monument was donated by the Anadarko Petroleum Corp and the Greely Monument Works in 2010.

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The storm hit around 9pm, just as I was starting my drive into the Rocky Mountains on I-70. It was now dark. The rain and wind became more intense; then it started to sleet and then snow as the temperature dropped to 34 degrees. The road was under major construction with many barrels and changes of lanes. Some semitrailer trucks were moving slowly up the mountain essentially blocking the right lane, while others were going the speed limit and throwing up spray that I could not see through. The conditions were horrible, totally unsafe, when I pulled off into the Grizzly Creek Rest Area for the night. This drive ranks in the top ten of the most difficult/dangerous drives I have done!  

9/17 W – started driving early and was at the BLM Grand Junction Field Office at 8am when it opened. I was able to get better maps and travel guides for the two National Conservation Areas (NCAs) I visited on this day. The first was the Dominguez-Escalante NCA only 25 miles south of Grand Junction CO.

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I started my hike into the Dominguez Canyon Wilderness (and NCA) at Bridgeport on the Gunnison River.

The first part of the trail followed the east side of railroad tracks to two bridges crossing the river.

The first (old) bridge was closed. So, I crossed the Gunnison River on the second (new) one.

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Looking back at the old bridge –

I passed an old mine – note the sluice trough.

And then came to the gate into the Dominguez Canyon Wilderness.

I hiked around Triangle Mesa toward Big Dominguez Creek.

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However, after hiking about 3-miles, I had not got to the creek. So, I decided to return to Bridgeport.

Union Pacific railroad train moving through canyon; the North Branch of the Old Spanish Trail passes through the eastern part of the NCA.

It took about an hour to drive SE to Delta CO and then on to Austin where I then drove S on Peach Valley Rd into Gunnison Gorge NCA and Wilderness.

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Ute Rd is a 4WD Track that ends at a lookout in the Gunnison Gorge Wilderness

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Descending back into the Gunnison Gorge NCA

Sidewinder Trail through the NCA

Back at Peach Valley Rd

OHV Play Area

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I stopped at a Toyota dealer in Delta CO because the Sequoia had an unusual sound that had been increasing since I left OH. Manager test drove it and said I probably needed one or two new front wheel bearings, but he was booked for a week. He gave me the names of three repair shops in Grand Junction where I was staying that night. I immediately called the first on the list and was told to bring my SUV in at 8am the next morning. I stayed the night in a Super 8 motel.

9/18 Th – I had the Sequoia at Shrums Auto Repair at 8am. The head mechanic and manager both test drove the SUV and stated that the sound was likely one or both front wheel bearings. I said to go ahead with the repair and walked downtown to tour and have lunch. I really liked Grand Junction and thought that I might like living there.

When I returned to the repair shop, the front wheel bearings had been replaced, but the mechanic and manager said the noise was still there! They proceeded to look at other possibilities and even put a sound system under the vehicle at each wheel to record sounds while driving to try to find the problem – no luck! They were dumbfounded and said that the only thing they could come up with was a gear box problem, which they could not look into for two days!  We agreed that I should take the vehicle and drive it until the sound was worse and then have it evaluated again. That put me at risk for getting stuck somewhere, perhaps with no cell phone service, but I felt I had to do it to maintain my schedule.

So, I got on I70 at 4pm and started driving West. It took me 5.5 hours to get to Leeds UT, where I slept in the SUV.

9/19 F – Up early and drove into the Red Cliffs NCA at daybreak. It is a large area (45,000 acres) in SW Utah, just N of St George.

I-15 and the Red Cliffs

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The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints “called” Orson and Susann Adams and 41 others to move to this area in 1862. There family lived in this house from 1864 to 1892.

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My first hike was 0.5 miles on the Anasazi Trail to an Archeological Site that was the home to Puebloan farmers. I am lower right in photo.

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I then took the Mano and Red Reef East Trails about a half mile to a Dinosaur Track Area

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That was followed by a short hike on the Red Reef Trail that follows Quail Creek.

McMullin House in Red Cliffs Recreation Area – Williard C. McMullin, a stone mason from Maine, built several stone houses in the area, including the Adams House.

After leaving the NCA, I drove to the Bureau of Land Management (including BLM) adjacent to the St George airport to collect information on both the Red Cliffs and the Beaver Dam Wash NCAs. I needed the latter to decide on my route to and through Beaver Dam Wash NCA, which is located about 12 miles west of St George.

Old Highway 91, which passes through Beaver Dam Wash NCA, was the route of the Old Spanish Trail, a National Historic Trail (NHT).

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Entering Beaver Dam Wash NCA. Congress designated these 63,645 acres in the SW corner of UT a NCA in 2009 – storm ahead

Watch out for Desert Tortoises

Early Explorers

Joshua Tree National Natural Landmark is within the NCA

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I drove toward the Woodbury Road Climbing Area

And then exited the NCA through the Woodbury Study Area into AZ

Drove 325-miles through Las Vegas and Death Valley NP to Lone Pine CA and the Alabama Hills National Scenic Area (BLM). I stopped at the painted “Monkey Head” on Whitney Portal Road just west of Lone Pine. The first pic is from 1992 with Manuel, our exchange student from the Canary Islands (Spain), on the monkey’s head and Chad leaning on his nose. The second photo is what it looks like today.

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This was my fifth time in this area. The first four were related to climbing Mt Whitney (14,505ft), the highpoint of CA and the highpoint of the 48 contiguous states.

The sun had just set over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, but I was still able to drive Movie Road and had enough light to briefly explore Lone Ranger Canyon. There have been over 400 movies filmed here, primarily “Cowboy Flics.”

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I had to be careful not to trip on the 0.6-mile Arch Loop Trail to Mobius Arch – it was dark by the time I got back to the SUV. I used the light on my cell phone to finish the trail. The photos are deceptive because the camera adjusted for the lack of light.

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It was then a one-hour drive to Bishop CA and the Liars Club Social at the Whiskey Creek Restaurant. Afterward, I signed into the Best Western Lodge for the Highpointers Club Konvention.

9/21 Sun – I was up early to drive to the Mammoth Mountain Ski Lodge to catch the 9am Shuttle Bus into Devils Postpile NM. The road into the monument was closed due to construction but buses were running on the weekends.

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I was here in 1967 with my friend Jay, but I did not have any written or photo evidence that I had been here – hence the reason for my visit today.

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My first hike was about 1.5-miles from the Ranger Station to the intersection of the John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails and back – a Two for One!

Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River

I then hiked the Devils Postpile loop Trail, about one mile. It goes up over the top and then back to the Ranger Station. As basalt lava erupts and cools, it shrinks and then cracks. Sometimes it will form vertical columns with three to seven sides.

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The 60-foot wall was exposed during the last glaciation.

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After exiting the bus at the Lodge, it took me 45 minutes, with a descent of 2,600ft, to get to the Mono Basin National Forest Scenic Area Visitor Center (USFS), just east of Yosemite NP.

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Toured the Visitor Center and had a nice conversation with the ranger. He said that he normally worked as one of the Climbing Rangers in Yosemite NP.

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There is a good view of Mono Lake and Black Point from the Visitor Center.

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I then drove a short distance to Navy Beach and the South Tufa Area.

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Tufas are produced as underground springs mix with the carbonate in the lake water to produce calcium carbonate.

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Chad (15) and I visited here during our 1998 “bonding” trip. Mono Lake has receded significantly in the last 27 years!

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I next drove two hours north to Carson City NV and had dinner in a small strip mall at the Hot Potato Pie fast food restaurant. I was told that this was the first in the country and they were about to open a second in Carson City. You order a giant potato and can choose from a multitude of toppings. Like ordering a pizza but with a much greater variety of toppings. I predict this is going to become a national chain!

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I slept in the Sequoia behind a motel.

9/22 M – My first stop was the Carson City District Office of the BLM. I spoke with at least three employees asking about two new BLM National Conservation Areas (NCAs) outside of Carson City. I collected information and purchased a BLM map for Walker Lake (2006), which shows the location of Black Mountain. A BLM employee drew the location of the Pistone-Black Mountain NCA on this map. I was also given written directions to find the 4WD route to Black Mountain (3,941ft).

I drove past the Walker Lake Recreation Area and an old homestead along the East Walker River.

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I continued for another half hour until I realized I was going south – the wrong direction! I turned around and headed back. When I got back to the Recreation Area, I stopped a state pickup truck going the other way to ask directions. That is how I met Ryan, the only person I saw for the four hours it took me to get to Black Mountain and then back to a NV state highway. He put an app on my phone that allowed me to track my location. I was now on my way to Black Mountain.

I passed a fenced area that looked like it contained a solar powered weather station.

The track started to gain elevation along a power/telephone? line.

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I got to a point where the Sequoia 4WD would not take me further up the mountain. So, I hiked over the hump you see in this photo.

On the other side I found a fenced structure that looked like it may have been a covering for a mine entrance, in middle of first photo.

This is a magnification of the above photo –

Looking at my phone, it appeared I was in the Pistone-Black Mountain NCA. So, I slowly backed down the track until I found a spot to turn around. I then proceeded down the steepest sections in my lowest gear.

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Heading back to civilization –

I took these photos of migrant workers outside of Yearington NV. They were starting to harvest a field of red onions. Another group was working back toward them from the opposite side of the field.

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My next task was to get to the Numanaa Nobe NCA before dark. There is one part of the NCA that has easy access off of Rt-50 east of Fallon NV – the Grimes Point Archeological Area. The majority acreage of the NCA is NE of this location.

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There are about 150 Basalt boulders with more than 1,000 petroglyphs in the area.

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“Some petroglyphs show animals and humans, others form unique designs with lines. Visitors can also find petroglyphs in the “pit and grove” style, featuring groups of circular pits and long, narrow grooves. This technique is the oldest known style of rock art.”

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I did the 0.5-mile Petroglyph Trail.

Some of the petroglyphs here may be related to the ritual practices of the tribe’s shaman.

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It was dark by the time I made it back to the SUV.

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I drove to Fallon and checked into a Motel 6 and then went out to fill the gas tank and get dinner. I got out my phone and put the location of a Maverick gas station on Google Maps and pulled out onto Rt-95 headed north. I looked at my phone, and it had gone dark. I did not want to adjust it while driving and there was no road shoulder. So, I pulled off onto a dark side street to get it working. Within one minute there was a police car with flashing lights behind me and a voice yelling at me to pull ahead. Had I done that, I would have had an accident with another car that was going by. The loud voice yelled at me again to pull ahead. I did so and got to a small parking lot in front of a business. The policeman pulled directly behind me so I could not move. He asked for my license and registration. I asked why he had stopped me. He stated I was blocking a crosswalk. I said there was no one there and explained that I was in a safe position to adjust my phone. He was young, overweight, obnoxious, and rude. It was clear I was going to get a citation, no matter what! He wrote me a $90 ticket, and stated I could come back from OH and argue my case to the magistrate! This was not a good way to end a long day.

9/23 Tu – coffee and donuts from a gas station, then a four-hour drive to Gerlach in the NW corner of NV.

Read the Gerlach sign –

Map showing a small southern part of the Black Rock Desert – High Rok Canyon Emigrant Trails NCA

The Black Rock Station, BLM Visitor Center, was not open due to the government shutdown. However the signage and information were good.

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Rt-34, starting into the NCA.

Map showing the route I took, first on Rt-34, then Rt-200, then onto the Playa at the Cassily Mine Campground, and finally my exit at the 12 Mile Playa Access.

Truck driving on Playa, notice the dust trail –

Right turn onto Rt-200

According to Wikipedia: “Burning Man is a week-long large-scale desert event focused on “community, art, self-expression, and self-reliance” held annually in the Western United States.” It started in 1986 at Baker Beach in San Francisco and moved to the Black Rock Desert in 1990. It has a tumultuous history. A symbolic man is created and burned symbolically at the end of the event. The event usually occurs around Labor Day. I met the fellow in the next photo who explained how he had worked at the event but quit because of a conflict with his boss. He cautioned me not to drive into the designated Burning Man “Black Rock City.”  He said the workers, who live there year-round, do not like others entering the area. The event had a crowd of 74,126 in 2023. Several people have died in relation to this event.

Getting ready to drive onto the Playa –

I drove 7-8 miles on the Playa and exited at the 12-Mile Playa Access. I only saw a fraction of this NCA and would like to spend more time here.

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I returned to Gerlach and drove Rt-34 NW to Vya and then took CA 8-A into the “Surprise Valley” of NE CA on the Barrel Springs Back Country Byway.

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This “cowboy” invited me to go for a ride with him in Surprise Valley. However, I was trying to get to Portland OR before midnight. As it turned out, I should have taken advantage of this opportunity.

I stopped at the BLM office in Cedarville CA but it was closed. I saw a sign for the USDA Modoc National Forest Warner Mountain Ranger District and followed the arrow to the office. The people there were very helpful and gave me a Modoc Country Map that was useful in following backcountry roads to Medicine Lake, which is in the new Sattitla Highlands National Monument (USFS). Sattitla means “obsidian place” in the Achomawi language. President Joe Biden established the monument by proclamation under the Antiquities Act on January 14, 2025. President Trump was sworn into office on January 20, 2025.
I took Rt-299 W through Alturas to Canby CA, then Rt-139 N to Tionesta, then Forest Service road FS-97 to the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway, then 2.6mi N on the Byway to Medicine Lake. It took a good deal of time to figure this out using at least three maps with varying route numbers.

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It is a beautiful lake with a number of camping areas. I happened upon a Buddhist group that was praying for World Peace.

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The Monk was giving individual blessings, and they were enjoying tea and symbolic snacks.

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After receiving my blessing, they welcomed me and asked me to stay and become a part of their community. So, I texted Helen and told her I had joined the group and would not be going home.

But alas, I was overcome by remorse and continued my route through the NM stopping in the Glass Flow Geological Area. It is difficult to take good pictures into the sun.

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I continued on the Byway (Rt-47) through the north part of the Sattitla NM to and into Lava Beds NM. Note the damage from a Forst Fire earlier in the year.

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To the south entrance of Lava Beds NM.

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The road surface improved and I stopped at the Visitor Center, which was not open.

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Helen and I explored this NM in 2007 and did hikes into five Lava Caves along the Cave Loop Road.

The Mushpot Cave was the only one with lights.

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In the others, we used lanterns. Note the lantern in Helen’s left hand.

Photo of the Fleener Chimneys 2007

We also hiked the 1.5-mile Captain Jack Stronghold Trail. Photo of the Medicine Pole.

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On this trip, I stopped at the Devils Homestead Lava Flow

And then drove to the Petroglyph Point Trail Section

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Tule Lake NM, which was a Japanese internment camp during WW II, was only three miles away. I visited here in May 2018 and posted several photos on our Blog. However, there are no photos of me. Hence, this photo to document that I DID visit this NM Unit!

There was no Visitor Center here in 2018. You can now see one in this photo.

I called Helen in Portland and said I could make it there about 12:30am. She said, go somewhere else, because we do not want you to wake us up or upset the dogs? I said, does that mean you want me to sleep in the SUV again with my pee bottle? She said, yes – what the heck! So, I drove to Crater Lake NP (took about 2-hours) to sleep in the Sequoia with my pee bottle.

Crater Lake NP is a great place for Sky Gazing, and it was a crisp cold night.

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I also treated myself to Mushrooms Bruschetta plus a Manhattan and relaxed in front of the fireplace in the Crater Lake Lodge!

 My first visit to this NP was in 1967 with my friend Jay. We were on a 10K mile trip through the U.S. and Canada.

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Helen and I visited in 2007 – photo from the Watchman Overlook

The Garfield Peak Trail is 1.8-miles one-way with a 1,000ft gain.

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Just the Facts:

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Mount Mazama

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2005 OR State Quarter

2005 50 State Quarters Coin Oregon Uncirculated Reverse

9/24 W – Arrived in Portland for lunch and a five-day visit with Kate.

9/25 Th – Left after lunch for a 2.5-day excursion. Our first stop was the Kurt Cobain “under the bridge” memorial in Aberdeen WA.

Kurt grew up here and spent some time under this bridge. His song “Something in the Way” recalls his experience under his bridge.

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He shot himself in 1994 (27-years-old) after struggling with addiction. Signs in front of the house next to the memorial.

We made a quick stop in the Quinault Rain Forest of Olympic NP. The following descriptions and photos follow a counterclockwise drive in and around the park starting within the Quinault Rain Forest (S) and progressing to Hurricane Ridge (N).

Then proceeded to this sign near South Beach

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Olympic NP has three major Ecological Regions. I will have photos related to each one.

Our next stop was the Kalaloch Lodge, which is in the park and on the Pacific Ocean. Our cabin overlooked the beach (#23). We decided to take a sunset stroll before dinner at the Lodge.

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9/26 F – 7am breakfast at the Creekside Restaurant in the Kalaloch Lodge

We were at the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center at 9am when it opened.

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Gauging rain by month in the Hoh Rain Forest. Rain totals 140-167 inches per year!

Slugs

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Our first hike was the Hall of Mosses Trail, 0.8-mile.

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Then the 1.2-mile Spruce Trail

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“Nurse Log”

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Followed by 0.5-mile walk on the Hoh River Trail

We have visited Olympic NP at least seven times. I will be adding photos to this Blog post from previous visits. I will include the year of the photo(s). These were taken in 1969 – my mother Cecile on the Hall of Mosses Trail.

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My Mom and brothers Pat and Mike on the Spruce Trail

1.5hrs (47mi) from the Hoh Rain Forest to the Quileute Indian Reservation in La Push. The two photos are from 2005. Note Helen at bottom of totem pole.

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I have photos from three hikes along the coast in 1969. The first hike was a three-leg 9-mile hike that started from the Ozette Lake campground and went 3-miles to the ocean at Cape Alva. The second leg was a three-mile hike on the beach and over rocks to Sand Point, and the third was a 3-mile hike back to our campsite.

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Petroglyphs

The second hike was three miles round trip (rt) to 3rd Beach south of La Push

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The third hike was to 2nd Beach (2-miles rt) with my mother, brothers Mike and Pat, and Helen

Mike and Pat holding piece of kelp

2nd Beach

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Tidal Zone – Helen’s foot

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We returned to 2nd Beach on this trip (2025) with Kate, because it was our favorite.

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Arch close-up

Jellyfish

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Storm debris

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Return to Kate’s car. Sequoia was in the shop in Portland for a left rear seal leak, which required new axle shaft, seal, and complete wheel brake system. The same repair was done in LA two years previously, but it failed due to poor workmanship.

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Stopped in Forks for an ice cream. It is the setting for the popular vampire series “Twilight.”

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In 1969, Helen and I drove to Sol Duc for a backpacking trip with the hope of climbing Mt Olympus (7,980ft), the highpoint of Olympic NP. The Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort was not open that year, but it is open now.  We started our backpack toward the mountain not knowing what to expect.

I asked Helen to stop for a photo – she was not too excited about that!

In the end, the snow was too deep and we aborted our mission. On the way back we came across a newly born fawn. We DID NOT touch it because then the mother would abandon the child.

Grown deer –

2011 America The Beautiful Quarters Coin Olympic Washington Uncirculated Reverse

Lake Crescent is located in the N of the park. H & T had a beautiful tent campsite there in 1969. Storm King Mountain (4,534ft) is located just east of the lake, this photo is from 2025.

The Trail to Storm King Mountain and Marymere Falls begin near the Lake Crescent Lodge. This is another “Forest” area in the park.

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In 1967, Jay and I climbed Storm King Mountain. I took this photo on the way down. Sailboat on Lake Crescent.

I have hiked the 1-mile rt trail to Marymere Falls three times. The first was with Jay in 1967. The second was with my brothers Mike and Pat in 1969. This is a photo of Mike – “The Thinker.”

The third was this year (2025) with Kate.

Crossing Barnes Creek –

Lower view of Marymere Falls –

Upper view of Marymere Falls –

Returning to car –

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Hurricane Ridge was clouded in on this trip. However, Helen and I had a good day when we traveled there from Seatle on 6/1/1969.

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We loved our VW “Beatle.”

We took a couple of hikes along the ridge. Mt Olympus is to the right in this photo.

Wildflowers had just started blooming –

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Olympic NP mountains were usually visible from Seatle – they beckon you to visit! We took advantage of this beautiful day to do exactly that! Checking trails –

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Vancouver Island Canada is on the other side of the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

By the time we got to Port Angeles it was dark. We continued driving around Puget Sound to Kent WA where we stayed in a Best Western motel.

9/27 Sat – Ron and Pat met us at the motel for breakfast.

Afterward, we drove 3hrs to the Paradise Henry M. Jackson Memorial Vis Ctr in Mount Rainier NP.

Mount Rainier from airplane August 2025 –

Top of the mountain from plane in 2005 –

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I saw Mount Rainier (Mt Tahoma) for the first time in 1967 when Jay and I tried to climb it. We needed a permit and met with the climbing rangers to get one. However, they would not give us one because we did not have climbing experience on glaciers.

Marmot

We did climb 4,639ft and more than 9-miles to Camp Muir, which is located at 10,000ft

Mount St Helens from Camp Muir – before it erupted!

In 1969, Helen and I invited our Canadian friends George and Linda to climb Mount Rainier with us.

Mt Rainier from the West –

We would all climb to Camp Muir and then George and I would summit early the next morning, while the ice was still stable.

The Skyline Trail –

Backpacking up the Muir Snowfield –

Camp Muir

Our tent, note the stove and cook pots –

Mt Adams left, Mt Hood center, Mt St Helens right

After having a problem with altitude sickness, George and I decided not to attempt the summit. We packed up after a light breakfast and headed down the mountain. This photo shows us descending through “sun cups” with Mt Adams in the background.

Back on the Skyline Trail with Mt St Helens in the background –

Helen and I visited the NP several times 1968-69. In the Fall of 1968, we drove to the Sunrise Visitor Center on the East side of the mountain.

Note the Emmons Glacier on the left of Steamboat Prow. It is the largest glacier in the lower 48 states and provides another route for climbing the mountain.

Starting our 7-mile rt hike.

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We hiked the Wonderland Trail to a point overlooking the Winthrop Glacier. The photos follow the glacier from its origin to its terminal moraine.

Note Crevasses

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Toe of the Winthrop Glacier, moraine, and Mystic Lake

We met Bob and Sue from New Zealand on this hike; they became our lifelong friends. They were living in Tacoma at that time but then moved to an apartment complex on Mercer Island, right next to ours! Bob was a doctor on a grant at the U of W. He specialized in the cause and treatment of pain and was also a spelunker (explores caves). Here is a photo of my favorite mountain from the U of Washington.

My birthday cake – June 1969

In July 1969, Bob and I went on an adventure to explore the ice caves in the Paradise Glacier on Mount Rainier.

Bob

These caves have collapsed because of global warming.

The color of ice – with light filtering through

In August 1969, I took my mother and brothers Pat and Mike to the Visitor Center and Paradise Inn.

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On July 12, 1991, I arrived in Kennewick WA to visit Stacy. She had a Paper Science and Engineering Internship at a Boise Cascade White Paper Division Plant. The next day she picked up Ken and James, and they followed me to the White River Campground on the east side of Mount Rainer.

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Early the next morning, we drove to Sunrise for the sunrise. It was beautiful!

We then went back to the campsite and hiked to the Glacier Basin Overlook.

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Afterward, we drove around the SE corner of the NP –

to the Paradise Visitor Center, where we took a walk on a snowfield.

Stacy, Ken, and James returned to Kennewick WA, and I slept in the van.

The next morning, I signed in with Rainier Mountain Guides, met my tent mates Steve and Peter, and started up the Muir Snowfield in a heavy mist and rain carrying a 50-pound backpack. I was on a five-day glacier climbing seminar.

We set up camp at 9,700ft, just below Camp Muir. I hiked up to take these photos.

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Nisqually Glacier

The next morning, we had ice axe, crampon, and basic rope practice and then trekked across the Nisqually and Wilson Glaciers to our next camp.

We had to find a way through the crevase fields.

Camp 2, 9,000ft – Peter, Steve, Tom and gear had to fit into one of these VE25 North Face tents.

About an inch of snow fell overnight. In the morning, we had more crampon, rope, and crevasse rescue practice. At 11am, we started a strenuous climb up the Kautz Glacier. Camp 3 was on a rocky outcrop at 11,200ft.

We were up at 2am to prepare for the push to the summit. We left camp at 4:15am with headlamps to light the way. The guides placed fixed ropes on a steep slope next to the icefall, and that is where the steepest climb began. Photo taken day before.

Reached the summit, Columbia Crest 14,410ft, of Mount Rainier at 9am on July 18, 1991. I had a teammate take the obligatory summit photo.

We then found and signed the summit register; tentmates Peter and Steve.

Descending from the summit crest – Mt Adams in background

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Dropping down onto the Kautz Glacier

Passing icefall on the way down to Camp 3

We had a rest stop and packed up our gear at Camp 3.

We then descended 3,000ft down the steep slope of the Kautz Glacier. The top was slushy because of the sun with ice underneath. Everyone fell at least once and used the ice axe self-arrest to stop. Photo of rest stop; notice, we are all tied into the rope for safety.

I was able to get this photo lower on the glacier.

Camp 4 –  

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Photos taken on the descent to Paradise

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In 2005, Helen and I made a visit to the east side of Mt Rainier. These photos were taken near Chinook Pass, when we did the 3.5-mile Naches Peak Loop Trail. The first is a popular view of Mount Rainier from Tipsoo Lake. I have seen it on several Calendars.

The Pacific Crest Trail crosses this bridge over Rt-410, the Mather Memorial Parkway.

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In 2025, we visited the south end of the park with Kate.

Leaving from the Visitor Center, we hiked the Skyline Trail to the Glacier Vista at 6,336ft, a gain in elevation of almost one thousand feet.

The Tatoosh Range to the South

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Mount Rainier covered with a lenticular cloud, indicating high winds at the top of the mountain. It is recommended that you not climb into such a cloud.

These photos were taken on the way down

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We then did the 1-mile rt Myrtle Falls Trail.

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After stopping at the Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center for an ice cream, we had a 3-hour ride back to Portland where I picked up our Sequoia – with the left rear axle, seal, and brake repaired. I was fortunate to get it fixed without having to change our itinerary. Kate went to pick up Benne and Greta and we met at her home for dinner.

9/28 Su – after mass at the Chapel of Mary at the Grotto, we went to the Javi restaurant for breakfast.

We spent the rest of the day relaxing and packing for our circuitous trip back to OH.

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OR to OH – Nez Perce NHP, Little Bighorn Battlefield NM, Highpoint of ND, Theodore Roosevelt NP, Voyageurs NP, Isle Royale NP, Grand Portage NM

August 29, 2024

8/5/2024 – dropped Helen off at the Portland Airport at 5:45am.  Her flight flew east over Ohio to Washington DC’s Dulles Airport (in Virginia).  After a three-hour layover, she flew back west to Dayton OH – that’s what happens when you use Reward Pts!

Meanwhile, I drove to Spalding ID and the Nez Perce National Historical Park. – see Blog entry for September 2016 for first visit.

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Slept in the Sequoia in the parking lot of a Courtyard Marriott in Bozeman MT

8/6 Tu – 3hr drive to Little Bighorn Battlefield NM and “Custer’s Last Stand.” Our first visit here was in 1969; I have included some of those photos below.  The rangers let us camp on the grass outside the visitor center overnight (not possible today!) – 2024

The Army was there to force the Indians back on their reservation. On June 25, 1876, there were about 7,000 Indians camped along the Little Bighorn River including 1500-2000 braves. Led by Sitting Bull.  Blue represents movements of the Army and red Indian movements.

The battle began when Custer ordered Reno’s battalion to attack the encampment.  They were routed and retreated to these bluffs.  Reno was joined by Benteen’s battalion, and they were able to make a determined stand until the next afternoon, when the Indians withdrew.  We walked the Entrenchment Trail in 1969.

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When we were there in 1969, a filming crew had recreated the Indian encampment and were filming the movie “Little Big Man” with Dustin Hoffman.

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Custer continued north trying to locate the lower end of the encampment.  There were skirmishes with Indians all the way to Last Stand Hill.  National Cemetery with the 7th Cavalry Memorial (1881) on the hill in the middle of the photo.

Red granite markers were placed on the battlefield in 1999 to indicate where Indians fell. This marker is for “White Black Man” a Lakota warrior.

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Last Stand Hill

Looking downhill toward the Little Bighorn River.  It is estimated that about 210 of Custer’s men were killed.  An additional 53 of Reno-Benteen’s men were killed on the hilltop one mile south.

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Lt. Col George A. Custer died and was buried here but in 1877 Custer’s remains were reinterred at the U.S. Military Academy at West Point NY.

7th Cavalry Memorial 2024

Horse Cemetery – many horses were also killed during the battle.  Custer’s last horses were purposely killed and used for a breastwork against the attacking Indians.

Sunset 1969

A large memorial to the Indians killed (60-100) in the battle was completed in 1999.

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One of several monuments to the Indian tribes who were involved in the Little Bighorn Battle.

Peace Through Unity

My next stop was the Painted Canyon Visitor Center in the South Unit of Theodore Roosevelt NP.  See Blog dated September 2019 for my visit to the North Unit.

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My main objective this afternoon was to measure the trail distance from the parking lot to the top of White Butte (3,506ft), North Dakota’s highest point.

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The trail has been significantly improved since my last visit.  It starts at this gate. Note the measuring wheel to determine how far it is from there to the top.

The top, with cairn, USGS marker, and registration box.  One-way distance – 4,591ft.  Gain in elevation – about 400ft.

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LONG – 400mi drive to Detroit Lakes MN –

8/7 W – 3.5hrs to Kabetogama Visitor Center in Voyageurs NP

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The Visitor Center overlooked Lake Kabetogama

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History

The park is noted for its river and lakes system that provided passage for “Voyageurs” – French-Canadian canoe men, who moved beaver and other pelts from the Canadian Northwest to Montreal and trade goods in the opposite direction.  The fur trade peaked during the late 1700s and early 1800s.  Note the categories of NP Units that are on the top of this photo.

Peter and I plied some of these same waters in 1989 on a three-day canoe adventure.  This was one activity on Peter’s 15-yr-old bonding road trip with Dad.  We paddled from Ash River to Crane Lake camping on islands between the U.S. (Minnesota) and Canada.  Our stops (short red lines) and campsites (circled) are marked on this map.

Ash River – start.   Owner of Corcoran’s Pine Point Lodge on Crane Lake drove us and our rental canoe 65-miles to get to this put-in. Charged us $15 for three-day canoe rental, $30 for 3hrs of travel time, $13.09 for 11 gallons of gas, and $6.70 for a pizza and 2 drinks!

Stop on McManus Island

Island Campers

Wolf Pack Island Camp – Day 1

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Morning Haze

Break Time

Rest Stop – Pike Bay

My Island Camp – Day 2. A bear destroyed a campsite here the night before.  All food, toiletries, etc. were supposed to be placed in metal lockers.  The campers neglected to do that!

These islands are in Canada – one of them is called “Your Island.”

Sunrise

Large Voyageur Canoes

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14-mile paddle to Crane Lake on Day 3 – returned canoe here

2018 MN National Park quarter

It took 4.5hrs to drive to Grand Portage MN on the western shore of Lake Superior. In 1989, Peter and I took the ferry Wenonah (3hrs) to Isle Royale NP.

We passed the Rock of Ages Lighthouse as we approached the island.

Sailing through the North Gap

Entering Washington Harbor

Landing at Windigo

Shipwrecks around Isle Royale

We hiked the loop trail to Huginnin Cove in a light drizzle.  On the way back to the Visitor Center, we passed the Wendigo Mines.  The trail presented us with the greatest array of green colors that I have experienced in my life.

Wenonah waiting for departure –

This is a photo of the North West Company’s Headquarters, in Grand Portage Bay, taken from the ferry as we returned.

We arrived back in time for a visit to Grand Portage NM. It was the first NP Unit to be co-managed with a Tribal Nation – the Lake Superior and Minnesota bands of the Chippewa Tribe.

The North Men (Winterers) and Montreal Men (Pork Eaters) met at the Grand Portage for trading.  The North West Company ran the largest fur trading depot in the heart of the continent.

Fur trading took place here in the early 1700s. In 1722, the Grand Portage became the standard route to bypass rapids on the lower Pigeon River. The North West Company built its headquarters here in 1784. In 1803, they relocated north to Fort William (now Canada) to avoid complications of citizenship, licensing, and import duties. To avoid paying taxes!

In 1989, the Visitor Center was in the Stockade.

Inside the Great Hall 1989

2024 – 35 years later

This was my first visit to the “new” Heritage Center.

The voyageurs had to carry all their trade goods, about 90lb packs, over an 8.5-mile portage between Fort Charlotte and the Stockade on Lake Superior.  That way they were able to avoid the waterfalls and rapids on the last 20-miles of the Pigeon River.  Voyageurs is a French word meaning “travelers.”

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Ojibwe Village – Gichi Onigamiing – The Great Carrying Place

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Canoe Warehouse

Kitchen left and Great Hall right

Reenactors in Kitchen

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Approaching Canoe Brigades

Ready to tour the Great Hall – interior circa 1797.

Most trading took place during the Rendezvous in July of each year.

Dock, stockade, and sailboat Paul LaPlante. Boats like this Mackinaw boat were the “pickup trucks” of the Lakes and also served the fishing industry in the mid-1800s.

Boat named for Paul LaPlante; a local French-Canadian/Ojibwe who lived in Grand Portage.  He was a well- known skilled boat builder. Numerous descendants of his still live on the Reservation here.

Lake Superior Maritime Highway

Start of Grand Portage Trail (17- miles round trip). I did a short walk!

Drove through Deluth MN in a pouring rain, then onto US-53, and then I-94 stopping outside of Eau Claire WI.

8/8 – 4hrs to Chad, Liz, Drago, Seamus, and Lena in Milwaukee. I enjoyed telling/showing the grandkids the route of my travel and the NP Units I visited.

Drove through Chicago so I could take my brother Mike to lunch and then continued to Springfield arriving about 8pm. Trip mileage was 6,246-miles.