9/13 M – Rented a Nissan Sentra from Enterprise in Springfield and started my trip to Council Bluffs, Iowa,12hrs (740mi). Gained one hour to Midwest time.
9/14 Tu – Up and out by 5;30am, heavy rain in Iowa – 10hrs (635mi) to Casper WY. Gained 1hr to Mountain Time, arrived at the National Historic Trails Interpretive Ctr (BLM) about 2:30pm.
Between 1840 and 1869, over 500,000 emigrants traveled through the Casper area on three National Historic Trails – the Oregon, California, and Mormon.
A 17-min diorama program describes the hardships of the trails
The Pony Express Trail, from St Joseph MO to San Francisco, passed through here as well. For $5 per half ounce, a letter would be delivered in 10 days or less.
These and other trails were the routes of the largest unforced migration in the history of the world.
They migrated for different reasons: They sought free land in the Oregon Territory, religious freedom in the Great Salt Lake Valley, and free gold in California. The lives of indigenous peoples, who for centuries inhabited the lands crossed by the trails, were changed forever. There are 7 galleries, Ways of the People, The U.S. Looks West, The Oregon Trail, The Mormon Trail, The California Trail, The Pony Express Trail, and Epilogue – The Trail Today.
The Martin Handcart Co. Rescue – There is a nine-minute dramatization of the Heber McBride family, who were part of the Martin Company that faced terrible perils during their journey in 1856. The words in the presentation were taken from diary accounts.
A ranger suggested I visit the reconstructed Fort Caspar Museum on the North Platte River. It is run by the city of Casper WY and includes a replica of the fort. The first permanent occupation of the site was when a toll bridge and trading post were built here in 1859.
The bridge and ferries charged tolls to cross the North Platte River. Crossing the North Platte River was often a perilous undertaking: The river was at times 300 yards across and four feet deep.
The Battles of Platte Bridge and Red Buttes – Indian revenge for the Sand Creek Massacre in CO
9/15 W – Left Casper at 5am. It took 12hrs (650mi) to drive to Boise ID and the My Place Hotel in Meridian. Crossing the Continental Divide –
I stopped for a few photos as I drove through Grand Teton NP at about 10:30am.
Arrived in Meridian ID at 5pm, cleaned up, and treated myself to the Yellow Curry Noodle Special at the nearby Thia Basil restaurant.
9/16 Th – Ate left over Yellow Curry Noodle dinner for breakfast – Yum. Arrived at the National Historic Oregon Trail Interpretive Ctr in Baker City OR at 9am, one hour gain to Pacific Coast Time. The Museum is operated by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) in partnership with Trail Tenders, the Oregon Trail Preservation Trust, and Baker City – $6 Sr. The Museum is on top of Flagstaff Hill, which is the location of the Historic Flagstaff Gold Mine.
The Oregon Trail was a 2170-mile wagon/hand cart/horse route from Missouri to the Willamette Valley of Oregon. This photo was taken from the top of Flagstaff Hill looking NW toward the Columbia River. Wagons descended the slope on the left.
I spent an enjoyable three hours in the museum and on trails around the site.
Wagons descending Flagstaff Hill.
Displays relating the history and life along the trail.
In 1855, there were seven forts along the Oregon Trail: Fort Kearney, Fort Laramie, Fort Casper, Fort Bridger, Fort Hall, Fort Boise and Fort Vancouver.
Stamp Mill for Flagstaff Gold Mine, Hoist center left –
By 1899, over ten million dollars of gold were removed from this area.
Want to find some Gold! – Lost Blue Buckett Mine
Ruts on the Oregon Trail
9/18 F – Kate ordered in McDonald’s for breakfast! I left Portland about noon; Ron picked me up at the SEA-TAC airport where I returned my rental car. We then drove to his house on Mercer Island for drinks on the patio and a Lasagna dinner
9/19 Sat – Left Mercer Island at 6:30am for the drive to the Anacortes Ferry Terminal. Our Washington State Ferry left at 9am and arrived at Friday Harbor on San Juan Island at 10:10am. We then drove to the American Camp Unit of San Juan Island National Historic Park.
The Visitor Center opened in 2023.
There was a nice display describing the lives of the early inhabitants.
Panel describing the History of the San Juan Islands.
No fatalities during the “Pig War,” except for the pig.
American Camp
Did a video from Robert’s Redoubt and then did a short hike to the Castle Point Lighthouse.
Fox
Checked out the Castle Point Interpretive Area
Then drove to the English Camp on the NW side of the island
Did the short hike to Officers’ Hill to get a good overlook of the garden and blockhouse.
Garden
Coast Salish Story Poles
Had Fish & Chips in Friday Harbor, were the last car on the 3:25pm ferry, and were back on Mercer Island at 6:45pm.
This was my second visit to San Juan Island NHP. Helen and I were here in 2005.
There was no Visitor Center at the American Camp, but we did climb Mt Young at the English Camp. Sign is from 2026 –
We camped at Lime Kiln State Park and planned to kayak with the Orca whales, but the trip was canceled due to bad weather.
We did do a sea-kayak excursion from the Bon Accord, a boat we boarded in Friday Harbor.
We paddled along the coast of Orcas Island and had lunch on the beach.
9/20 Sun – Attended 8am mass at St. James Cathedral in Seattle; then back to the house where Ron made brunch. We then did a tour of West Seattle. Including a 3-mile walk at Alki Point/Beach where Seattle had its first settlement.
Note the piece of Plymouth Rock in the monument –
9/21 M – Ron dropped me off at Sea-Tac (8am) for my flight to Fairbanks AK. It was a 4-hr flight with another one-hour gain to Alaska time. Checked in to the SpringHill Suites and then walked 0.3-mile to the Public Lands Information Center in the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center.
I toured the facility and then got an update on weather and Dalton Highway conditions from the BLM office. The ranger said it would be cloudy with the temperature in the 40s, and that the road was generally dangerous but especially bad in the Hess Creek area.
Car rental companies would not permit their vehicles to go on the Dalton Highway. I asked a ranger about that two months ago and he suggested I look into a UHAUL because hunters were using them in that area. I did and reserved a 9-ft van for my trip. I picked up my 24-hr rental at 5:30pm knowing I would have to have it back before they closed at 6pm the following day. One of the conditions of the UHAUL rental was that an additional contact had to be called and verified. I noted the van had 3,025 miles on it. I would have preferred a pickup, but they did not have one available.
I went to Subway for dinner and saved half of the footlong for lunch the next day. I called Helen about 6:30pm, 10:30pm her time.
9/22 Tu – I left Fairbanks at 5:30am. It was 39 degrees. My objective was the Yukon River Crossing at Mile Post (MP) 56 on the Dalton Highway to be sure I was within the BLM Utility Corridor.
I left Fairbanks on the Steese Highway and then turned onto the Elliott Highway at Fox and continued to Livengood where the Dalton Highway begins (81mi) – 8am, 29-degrees.
Drive Carefully!
At 8:30am I was stopped by a barricade put up by an AK road crew.
I was told the road would open by noon. Close up of the crushed stone surface of the road. The logistics, driving (big potholes, single lane stretches over hills, and loose deep stone), time, trucks, and road condition made the road quite challenging. The next day my arms and shoulders were sore!
At noon I ate my 6” Subway sandwich and took a short walk. The temperature had dropped one-degree to 28, still below freezing, which made the packed stone slippery. I found a roadside cross for Jerry Sutton who had died in a truck accident here on April 19, 2026 (Peter’s Birthday).
They re-opened the road at 12:30pm as a cloud lifted and I followed the work truck to where the crew had replaced a culvert.
I continued on my not so merry way –
The “Ice Road Truckers” TV reality show ran on the History channel from 2007-2017. They started showing episodes again in 2025. Seasons three to six featured the Dalton Highway, which is used through the winter to take supplies to the oil fields at Prudhoe Bay. The road was built to construct the oil pipeline that runs from Prudhoe Bay to the port of Valdez.
Approaching the Yukon River
The Yukon Visitor Contact Station (MP56) is located on the North side of the river but was closed for the season (2:30pm).
I took a short walk to the E. L. Patton Bridge
I started back to Fairbanks but was stopped at another roadblock at 4:30. I was worried I would not get the van back by 6pm, UHAUL closing time! Fortunately, and unfortunately, I got back at 5:45pm but did not have time to fill the gas tank. So, I had to pay them $136,50 ($5.25 x 26 gallons)! I was also charged a $100 cleaning fee, which I was happy to pay. Note, I lost the left rear hub cap to a pothole!
Walked 0.8-mile to the hotel to shower and then had dinner inside the Co-Op Plaza Mall across the street. It was a Moldovan (Eastern part of Czech Republic) restaurant named Soba. I had Pelmeni, dumplings with minced pork and beef, served with sour cream and homemade chicken noodle soup – delicious! I then walked about a mile and a half looking for a dark area to search the skies for the Northern Lights. I have now been to Alaska six times for a total of about three months. I have only seen the Aurora Borealis once and that was from a plane on my way to Fairbanks. It was interesting how the bright green light followed the curvature of the earth as I looked NE. However, I have not seen the wispy streaks of color flowing across the sky.
9/23 W – My flight left Fairbanks at 8:30am and arrived in Seattle at 1:17pm. I took the courtesy shuttle to the Fairfield Inn and settled in. I then walked a short distance to the Light Rail Link Line for a ride downtown. I discovered that it was an honor system and people just walked on and off the train. For me, a senior, the fare was $3 one-way, which I paid at a kiosk. I started my downtown tour by finding my way to the King Street Amtrack station Where I would be catching the Coast Starlight train to Portland the next morning.
I then walked to the Klondike Gold Rush NHP, which is located in the historic Cadillac Hotel (1890). I wanted to confirm that a ranger would be on the train tomorrow as part of the Amtrack Trails & Rails Partnership Program with the NPS.
I then walked through Pioneer Square on my way to the waterfront.
I walked past the Ferry Terminal and then strolled along Alaskan Way to The Fisherman’s Restaurant & Bar. The manager allowed me to take my Grilled Halibut Tacos and beer to the top viewing area where I had a good view of the harbor activities.
I next walked through the Pike Street Market as it was closing and then descended into the subway to take the Light Rail back to the hotel.
9/24 Th – Breakfast at the hotel, Link Rail downtown, and walk to the King Street Station (1906). Lumen Field is in the background – where the NFL Seattle Seahawks play.
Checked in for the Amtrack Coast Starlight #11 that leaves Seattle at 9:55am. Note the different stops on its’ way to Los Angeles. I bought my ticket to Portland OR online ($45) and had to show it to the conductor on the train.
The two volunteer rangers were stationed in the Observation Car, where I was able to have my own table for taking notes, etc.
Kirkland, a suburb of Seattle, was the first site mentioned. It has the first COSTCO in the country. Hence the Kirkland brand products that it carries. The next site was Boeing Field. The rangers did an excellent job describing geology, history, parks, rivers, and events along our route.
Ready for Cabbage or Cauliflower harvesting –
Nisqually NWR
Olympia – State Capital
Mount Rainier
Mima Mound Natural Area Preserve
Columbia River – could be grain ship coming to take it to China? “On November 24, 1971, a man jumped from a 727 Commercial Jet with a 21-pound satchel of money strapped to his chest. The legend of D.B. Cooper was born on this day is Ameria’s only unsolved plane hijacking.” A small amount of the money was found on the banks of the river.
Columbia River Grain Depot
Barge bringing grain to Depot –
Information on Pacific Coast bird flyway and the Lewis & Clark Expedition (1805-1806)
Crossing Columbia River
Union Station Portland – serves the Northern Pacific, Union Pacific, and Southern Pacific railways.
Kate picked me up at the station – perfect timing. I picked Helen up at the airport at 6pm and we returned to a nice dinner prepared by Kate.
9/25 F – Kate work, Helen food shopping and preparation, and Tom sorted through $1K in quarters looking for 2026 D (Denver mint) notable U.S. Women coins.
9/26 Sat – Road Trip to Mount St Helens National Volcanic Monument (NVM) in WA. Helen and I had visited here in 2005 with Ron and Pat. This photo was taken from the Johnston Ridge Observatory at the end of SR-405.
The Johnston Ridge Observatory was closed on this trip. However, there are three other Visitor Centers as you drive toward the mountain. The first is the Washington State Parks Visitor Center close to I-5. This was Kate’s first visit to Mount St. Helens.
The Forest Learning Center at milepost 33 on SR-504 is sponsored by Weyerhaeuser. It has a viewing knoll as well as excellent exhibits and plenty of help from retired Weyerhaeuser employees.
The Path of Destruction
Video View from Helicopter
Castle Lake Viewpoint
Coldwater Lake – Science and Learning Center
Coldwater Lake
Returned to Kate’s house for a homemade Mousika dinner. Greta & Helen
9/27 Sun –8am mass at St Mary’s Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, Breakfast at the Screen Door, and then packing for our day trip to the Columbia Gorge National Scenic Area. We started where I left off one week ago – at the Vista House at Crown Point State Park, the West end of the Waterfalls Highway, Scenic US-30, which opened in 1915.
Inside the Vista House, opened in 1916
Latourell Falls
Shepperds Dell Falls
Bridal Veil Falls
Mulmomah Falls, which we have visited at least four times.
Oneonta Tunnel (1923)
Horsetail Falls (176ft), short hike
Leaving Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area
Dinner at Kate’s, packed for an early departure the next day –
9/28 M – Plane left Portland at 7:25am to Philadelphia. Flew over our house on the way there, 3hr 51min layover! Left PHL at 7:30pm, arrived in Dayton 9:42, and were home at 11pm. That’s what you get with frequent flyer miles!
After I returned home, I updated my U.S. Map for roads driven and water (blue) paddled and traveled.
