The Martin's Blog

10/1 F – revisited Morristown NHP in northern NJ– see Blog for August 2016.  It was the site of winter camps for American Revolutionary forces in 1777 and 1779.  Fort Nonsense was built in 1777.

British were 30-miles away in New York City

Jockey Hollow Winter Encampment 1779-80, one of the worst Winters on record.

Wick Farm

Sons of Saint Patrick

Ford Mansion, Washington’s Headquarters Winter of 1779-80

We stayed with Helen’s cousin in West Orange NJ and visited family cemeteries

10/2 Sat – My BIG day in NYC.  My list of must take items included: itinerary, Ferry reservations, COVID vaccination documentation, backpack, Gore-Tex jacket, camera, tripod, sandwich, snacks, water, NYC map, Subway map, face mask, and sanitizer.

6:45am – I drove to the Harrison Station for the NJ PATH train into the Oculus below the World Trade Center (WTC) in NYC; then walked to Fulton Station and took the Green Line #5 to Bowling Green Station near Battery Park on the tip of Manhattan.  From there it was a short walk to Castle Clinton NM for a repeat visit; see Blog for August 2018.

I checked in with Statue City Cruises at 9am for the 9:30am (first) ferry to Liberty Island and the Statue of Liberty NM.  My senior reserve ticket for the Pedestal self-tour cost $18.30.  I had taken ferries around Liberty Island on two occasions, and we visited as a family in 1986, taking the ferry from Liberty Park in NJ to the island.  Note the Twin Towers in the first photo.

Helen and I visited again in 2003 during our 35^th wedding anniversary celebration in NYC.

Photo leaving Battery Park at the tip of Manhattan

I was blessed with a beautiful day

I was one of the first ones off the ferry making my way to the security check-in for the pedestal level of the statue.

In 1986, I was able to take the circular staircase to the crown.  That opportunity was not available today.

Photo of NYC, including Governors Island on the right, from the Pedestal.  My head blocks out part of the Brooklyn Bridge.

Liberty’s Classical Origins

Here are three photos taken in the Visitor Center

I caught the ferry to Ellis Island, which is now part of the NM

In 2003, we searched the archives here and found information on Helen’s grandparents immigration to the U.S. in 1905.

Baggage Room

Registry Room

It was a 10-minute ferry ride back to Battery Park and then a 15-minute walk to the Battery Maritime Building to catch the noon ferry to Governors Island NM.  See Blog for August 2018 for our first visit here.   Castle Williams (1811) was one of several forts built to defend NYC.

After returning to Manhattan, I walked by Fraunces Tavern (1719) on my way to Federal Hall.  It served as a headquarters for George Washington, as a venue for peace negotiations with the British, and as housing for federal offices in the early Republic.  Washington gave an emotional farewell to his officers here on December 4, 1783.  It was the site of a 1975 bombing by Puerto Rican nationals that killed four people.  It is now a restaurant/bar. 

Frederick Samuel Tallmadge, a member of “Sons of the Revolution,” willed the money for a 1907 renovation of the building.  I like the quote on his plaque, “To Live in Hearts We Leave Behind is Not to Die.”

Federal Hall N MEM, NY Stock Exchange on left – see Blog for August 2018 to see photos taken inside

Walked to the Wall St Station of the Green Line and took the #4 train to the Brooklyn Br. City Hall Station.  I had to walk through a large Pro Women’s Choice Demonstration to get to the African Burial Ground NM.  We had been here in August 2018 (see Blog) but it was then under construction

I then walked to the Chamber St Station and took the Brown J line to Delancey St Station on the Lower East Side.  It was then a short walk to the Lower East Side Tenement NHS (Affiliated).  Helen and I did the “Irish Outsiders” tour here in August 2018 (see Blog).  This neighborhood was the home to an estimated 15,000 people, from over 20 nations, between 1863 and 2011. The Museum has two historical tenement buildings, 97 and 103 Orchard Street, that it uses to give tours describing immigrant lives.

I took the J Line back to the Chamber St Station and switched to the Green Line #6 to the 23^rd St Station.  On June 6, 2003, Helen and I toured the Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace NHS during our 35^th wedding anniversary trip to NYC.  It is a recreated (1923) brownstone at 28 East 20th Street, between Broadway and Park Avenue South, in the Flatiron District of Manhattan.  It is a replica of the birthplace and childhood home of the 26th President.  I returned to take some photos of the building, which was not open because of the pandemic.

Walked to the 14 St Union Square Station and took the subway back to the Brooklyn Bridge/City Hall Station.  I have wanted to walk the Brooklyn Bridge (completed in 1875) for decades.  Well, I finally got to do it.  It is called the Brooklyn Bridge Promenade.

It was a long walk from Brooklyn to the World Trade Center (WTC)

Freedom Tower

The above ground section of the WTC Transportation Hub was designed to represent “a bird being released from a child’s hand.”

I returned to the Oculus to catch the PATH train back to NJ.

I checked my phone at the end of the day and discovered I had walked over 11-miles and ascended 51 floors!

10/3 Sun – attended a Russian Orthodox church service with Alisa and Christina and returned to Fairmount Cemetery in Newark to find Helen’s grandparents grave but were unable to find it despite knowing section and plot numbers.  There were no signs, diagrams, or maps available and the graves in that section were totally overgrown with grass.

10/4 M – It took 1.5-hours and driving through rush hour traffic (over the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge) to get to the Jamaica Bay Unit of Gateway NRA.   We had already visited the Sandy Hook (NJ) and Staten Island Units in August 2016 (see Blog).  The Ryan Visitor Center at Floyd Bennett Field was not open due to the COVID pandemic, but we were able to tour the site.  This was NYC’s first municipal airport.

Our main objective here was to hike to Breezy Point, that is on a peninsula that sticks out into the Atlantic Ocean.  Sandy Hook NJ is opposite this location.  All maritime traffic to and from NYC passes between these two points.  The hike was about 2-miles round trip.

Collecting more shells, though overcast, it was a very enjoyable morning.

Not so enjoyable, was when I slipped on the breakwater and gashed my leg on the rocks.

Fort Tilden was closed but we were able to visit Jacob Riis Park

Jamaica Bay

We visited Fire Island NS (National Seashore) on Long Island in August 2018 (see Blog).  Today, we visited the William Floyd Estate in Mastic Beach NY, which is a unit of Fire Island NS.

William Floyd, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, was born in the house in 1734 and it was his home until 1803.  In 1976 William Floyd’s great-great-granddaughter and her children donated the house to the NPS. The home reflects over 200 years of change.

Many family additions and changes to the home over 200 years

Floyd Family Cemetery

Gen. William Floyd (1734-1821) marker, slaves were buried on the other side of the fence

We stopped at Sagamore Hill NHS on Long Island for some photos on our way to Saratoga Springs NY for dinner with our friends Terry and Barry.  We did the house tour here in August 2018 (see Blog).  It was the summer home of Theodore Roosevelt.

A Thoroughly Modern Home

We stayed the night in Albany NY

10/5 Tu – on our way to our next stop we happened to pass Martin Van Buren NHS.  I had been here in August 2014 (see Blog) but Helen had not.  So, we stopped so she could walk the grounds and do the house tour.

Van Buren (1782-1862) was our 8th President – Home Tour

A half hour later we were driving up the hill to Olana, the estate of artist Frederic Church (1826-1900).  It is in Greenport outside the city of Hudson NY.  Frederick was a student of Thomas Cole and a major figure in the Hudson River School of landscape painting.  Olana is a NY State Historic Site.

Church and his wife Isabel created Olana with Persian motifs, though neither had been to Iran.

Scenic Trails

Hudson River Valley

We then drove across the river to Thomas Cole NHS (An Affiliated NP Unit).  Helen and I had done the tour here in October 2017 (see Blog) and returned today for a few more photographs.

We were going to do the Hudson River Skywalk, which is a 3-mile walk between the Cole and Church homes, however we did not have enough time. 

The Rip Van Winkle Bridge (about 1-mile long, opened in 1935) is a major link between the two sides of the river

In order to get a bit of the Skywalk experience, I dropped Helen off at the Catskill NY side of the bridge, then drove to the other side, parked, and started walking toward her until we met.

This was Helen’s Day, so we visited thrift and consignment stores in Hudson NY before driving south to revisit the Vanderbilt Mansion NHS.  We did the house tour here in November 2017 (see Blog).  Today we spent time in the Vanderbilt Pavilion, which serves as the Visitor Center.

And then toured the grounds

As mentioned, it was Helen’s Day.  So, we left in time to get to the Hyde Park consignment store (before it closed), where she filled the car in 2017.  Today she bought some odds and ends, frames for her stitching creations, and a wicker table.

Stayed the night in a nice comp suite at the new Sleep Inn in Monroe NY. 

10/6 W – It took about 2hrs to get to Steamtown NHS in Scranton PA.  See our Blog for August 2016 for pictures from our first visit. 

I was surprised that they had moved locomotives around since our first visit – that must have been some chore!  For example, they moved the “Big Boy” Union Pacific from the railyard, gave it a cosmetic restoration, and placed it in front of the Visitor Center. 

They moved the Reading RR locomotives to the railyard track where the Big Boy had been

They changed and rearranged the locomotives and cars in the roundhouse and placed the Illinois Central locomotive on the turntable.

They also added the E. J. Lavino and Co. engine

I again enjoyed going through the railroad collection and displays.  I would go back!

The Mail Must Go Through

Operation of Steam Engine

The railroad yard contains many old trains.  Tracks in the yard are still used by the Delaware, Lackawana and Western Railroad

Finished the trip with an 8hr drive to Springfield OH

7/26 M – 7hrs to Gettysburg National Military Park. 

I did a complete tour here in 1966 with a friend.  Here are two photos:

In 2016, Helen and I did an abbreviated tour and then experienced the “Cyclorama” (light and sound show), which is a 360^o painting of the Battle of Gettysburg.  This is one small view of battle; Little Round Top is in the background.

This year, we did the 24-mile car tour stopping at all sixteen “official” tour stops plus many others.  Gettysburg 1863 –

On July 1, 1963, Gen. Robert E. Lee’s Confederate forces (70K) attacked Gen. George G. Meade’s Union forces (90K) defending Gettysburg on Oak Ridge.  He was successful in driving the Union forces back through Gettysburg to Cemetery Ridge and Culp’s Hill.

The Confederate forces set up positions on Seminary Ridge.

On July 2^nd they attacked the Union forces on Cemetery Ridge. At the end of the day, it was a stalemate.

On July 3^rd, Lee sent 12,000-infantry (Pickett’s Charge) to break the Union Line on Cemetery Ridge.  In 1966, I ran Pickett’s charge, about a mile uphill.  I can only imagine the physical effort carrying weapons and gear; then, the hand-to-hand combat at “The Angle”!  This is referred to as “The High Watermark of the Confederacy.” 

PA Infantry Statue and PA Quarter

This three-day Civil War Battle of Gettysburg holds the record for being the largest battle in the Western Hemisphere.  There were 10,000 killed, 30,000 wounded, and 10,000 captured or missing!  Gettysburg Soldier’s National Cemetery –

Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address took place on November 19, 1863.

It was a one-hour drive to Harpers Ferry National Historical Park.  It is in the NE part of WV where the Shenandoah River enters the Potomac River.  On the other side of the Potomac is Maryland, a Union State.  On the other side of the Shenandoah River is Virginia, a Confederate State.  Harpers Ferry was a very important place during the first 100 years of our nation’s history.    

Helen and I had a nice visit here in 1970.  We did the trail to the Maryland Heights overlooking Harpers Ferry and the convergence of the rivers and then toured the town.

We arrived about 6pm today and did a short tour of the Lower Town. 

The John Brown Monument is located where the Federal Armory fire station where he was captured was located.  A reconstruction of the fire station (John Brown’s Fort) can be seen in the background with VA (across the Shenandoah River) in the distance.

Meriwether Lewis was here in 1803 to gather supplies for the Lewis & Clark Expedition.

We walked to The Point where the Shenandoah River enters the Potomac River

And then across the Potomac River RR Bridge into MD to take photos of Lock 33 of the C & O Canal.  Three National Trails Meet Here: The Appalachian Trail, the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal Trail, and the Potomac Heritage Trail.

7/27 Tu – We started back in the Lower Town today.

John Brown’s Fort (Federal Armory Fire Station)

Various buildings and museums were now open – e.g., Frankels Clothing Store, Provost Marshal Office, Stipes’ Boarding House, John Brown Museum, Dry Goods Store, etc.

Followed the stairs to St Peter’s Catholic Church (1833).  Only church not destroyed during Civil War.

And onward to Jefferson Rock

After the Civil War, Baptist missionaries founded Storer College (1867-1955) on Camp Hill to educate students of any race, male or female. 

The Niagara Movement

In 1963, the NPS acquired the campus.  It is now one of four major NPS training centers.  It is named for Stephen T. Mather, the Service’s first director.  

The Appalachian Trail Conservancy is located in town as well.

A 1.5hr drive took us to Fort McHenry NM and Historic Shrine outside of Baltimore MD.  This was Helen’s first visit this “Star Fort;” I had visited in 1967 and 1994.

America declared War on England in 1812 for, among other things, impressing American seamen into the British Navy during their war with France.  After their war with France was over in August 1814, the British attacked Washington DC and burned both the White House and Capital.  In September, they tried to take Baltimore.  Maj. George Armistead, commander of the fort, had a 42ft x 30ft flag with 15 stars and stripes made to rally his troops – “The Star-Spangled Banner.“  After a 25-hour bombardment by its fleet, the British attempted to take Fort McHenry and Baltimore but were unsuccessful.  Francis Scott Key, imprisoned on a British ship, watched the bombardment, and wrote the words for what would become the “The Star-Spangled Banner.” 

We were then off to Philadelphia for additional photos at Thaddeus Kosciuszko N MEM –

and Edgar Alan Poe NHS – see Blog for August 2016 for our first visit to these two NP Units. 

Afterward, we revisited Independence NHP to add that NP Unit to this Blog.  I was here in 1967 (with Bob’s Dad, Clark, and Bob), our family was here in 1983 (I am holding Kate), and here I am in 2021 by the Commodore Barry statue on the South side of Independence Hall.  

Background – The First Continental Congress was held in Carpenters’ Hall in Philadelphia in 1774 after the British Navy blockaded Boston Harbor.  The Revolutionary War is considered to have started on April 19, 1775, when MA militia harassed the British Army at Lexington and Concord.  The Second Continental Congress was held in the Pennsylvania State House (1775-1776).  On July 4, 1776, representatives from the original thirteen colonies signed the final wording of the Declaration of Independence.  Congress approved the Articles of Confederation in 1777 in York PA during the Revolutionary War.  Maryland was the last state to ratify the Articles in 1781.  The 1783 Treaty of Paris officially ended the Revolutionary War.  The Confederation Congress called a convention in the old PA State House Philadelphia (Independence Hall) in 1787 to revise the Articles of Confederation.  They created the U.S. Constitution, which established a “Constitutional Presidential Republic” with 3 branches of government.  That document was presented to Congress sitting in NYC (1785-1789).  It was ratified on June 21, 1888, and became effective March 4, 1789.   George Washington was inaugurated as the nation’s first president 8 weeks later, on April 30 on the balcony of Federal Hall in NYC.  On August 2, 1790, Congress passed the Residence Act of 1790.  The government would move from NYC to Philadelphia (Independence Hall), which would serve as the temporary capital for 10 years.  The U.S. Bill of Rights was ratified here in 1791 as was the approval for the First Bank of the U.S.  The Federal Mint was established in 1792.  The second inauguration of George Washington took place here in 1793.  The first peaceful transfer of power took place here with the inauguration of John Adams in 1797.  The Department of the Navy was established in 1798.  In 1800 the government would again move, this time to its permanent location in Washington, D.C.  So, here we are in 2021 at Independence Hall!  This is the North side with the George Washington statue.

State’s Rights vs Federal Rights (Human Rights as envisioned in the Constitution) battles continue to be fought today.  I believe you have the “freedom” to reject the COVID vaccine BUT you then forfeit (your federal right) to medical care for COVID infection.

We started with a ranger tour of Independence Hall.  It was built in 1753 and served as the capital of the Commonwealth of PA.  The rooms are presented as they were in 1775 for the governance of PA.  My photo is in the PA Supreme Court Room and the next photo is in the PA Assembly Room.  That room was used by the Second Continental Congress for the Declaration of Independence from Britain (July 4, 1776).  

We then did the ranger tour of the 1789 Philadelphia County Court House, which became the seat of the U.S. government from 1790 to 1800 and is now called Congress Hall.

House of Representatives

The U.S. Senate was on the second floor.  Note the 15 stars on the ceiling representing the 13 original colonies plus KY (1792) and TN (1796).  The 13 shields in the carpet also represent the 13 original colonies, plus a 14^th that contains the Liberty Cap on a pole and the Balance Scale of Justice.

It is interesting that the adjacent Committee rooms contain portraits of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette of France, gifts to the U.S. after the American Revolution.  They were executed in 1793 during the French Revolution (1789-1799).

Our final tour (self-tour) was at the Liberty Bell Center across the street.  The Liberty Bell was hung in the PA State House in 1753 – a thin crack appeared sometime after the Revolution.  It cracked irreparably in 1846 when an attempt was made to fix it.  

From there we drove to the John Dickinson Plantation outside of Dover DE.  It is a unit of First State NHP.  John Dickinson was a Quaker who supported Liberty and freed his slaves by 1786.

Our next stop was the Ryves Holt House in Lewes DE, which was my 7^th and final unit of First State NHP.  Built in 1665, it is thought to be the oldest building in DE.  It served the early Dutch maritime industry.

Stayed in Rockville MD with our good friend Lilian

7/29 Th – We were supposed to tour the White House and the Capitol with the National Park Travelers Club (NPTC)today, but both were canceled due to the pandemic.  Lilian was able to make us last minute reservations at the National Museum of African American History & Culture.  It is one of the Smithsonian Museums.  I believe a great deal of understanding and healing could be had if all Americans were willing to go through this museum with an open mind.

We wore our masks and social distance as we ascended three stories starting at the lowest (C3) of three underground History Galleries.  That was the Slavery and Freedom Gallery 1400-1877.

How do you cover 477 years of black history?  Here is a sampling –

Revolutionary War – Black Loyalists and Black Patriots

Slavery and Civil War

23, 29

Reconstruction, Jim Crow Laws, and Black Leaders

Defending Freedom, Defining Freedom: The Era of Segregation 1876-1968 was located on C2.

“1968 and Beyond,” was on level C1 and Explore More was on level L2

Community Galleries were located on level L3 including Sport

Culture Galleries were on level L4, including Cultural Expressions and Musical Crossroads.  There was also a nice view of DC looking west.

We then revisited the Washington Monument, this photo taken in 1986. 

My first visit here was in 1967.  This photo was taken from the Jefferson Memorial.  My white 1962 Chevy Impala sedan can be seen in the photo.

In 1968, I ran up the 896 steps inside the monument (555ft tall) to the observation area and took photos out of each of the four windows.  Note the tent city called “Resurrection City” that was set up for the Poor People’s March.  Martin Luther King (April 4) and Robert Kennedy (June 6) were assassinated that same year.  We were married on June 8^th.  There was extensive rioting in Washington DC.

Jefferson Memorial, also see Blog for Oct 2018

White House Visitor Center.  We have lots of photos of the White House across several years (e.g., see Blog for Dec 2020), and I took the White House tour in 1967.

World War I Memorial.  In 2017, the World War I Centennial Commission held a ceremonial groundbreaking event at Pershing Park.  The Memorial was completed this year.  See Blog for Oct 2018 and Dec 2020 for additional photos.

Next, across the Potomac River to VA and Arlington House, The Robert E. Lee Memorial in Arlington National Cemetery.  With my visit here on November 8, 2020, I achieved my goal of experiencing ALL 422 National Park Units (see Blog for Dec 2020).  On this trip, Ranger Aurelia arranged passes for me to drive through two security posts in Arlington Cemetery and park on the hill near the mansion.  We met her shortly after our arrival and she presented me with some NP gifts for achieving my goal at this NP Unit, which is administered by George Washington Memorial Parkway of the NPS.  Pictures were taken and placed on their Facebook page. 

  

The previous name for this site was the Custis-Lee Mansion, The Robert E. Lee Memorial.  Here is the Story – Martha Custis (1731-1802) had four children.  After her husband died, she married George Washington (1732-1799).  They did not have children together but raised her two children who survived to adulthood.  Her son, John Parke Custis (1754 to November 5, 1781), named his son George Washington Parke Custis (April 30, 1781 to 1857).  George and Martha adopted him and raised him at Mount Vernon.  When they passed, he inherited the family wealth.  He had his slaves build Arlington House (1802-1818) to honor the first President.  He had one surviving white child, a daughter Mary Anna Randolph Custis (1808-1873).  She married Robert E. Lee (1807-1870) in 1831.  They had seven children.  They and their descendants are now considered part of the “First Family.”

George Washington Parke Custis also had a daughter named Maria Carter (1803-1895) with Arianna Carter one of his black slaves.  She married Charles Syphax (black) in the Arlington House Parlor. They had ten children.  They and their descendants are now considered part of the “First Family.”  We started our tour with the newly renovated Slave Quarters.

We then did our 3:40 reservation for a 20-minute self-guided tour through the newly renovated South Wing of Arlington House.

After walking through the Conservatory, the first room was Robert E. Lee’s office.

Morning Room

White Parlor

Dining Room and Family Parlor

Center Hall

Kitchen Garden – Museum in background

Museum

Arlington Cemetery – 2,111 Civil War Unknowns are buried under this monument

We then stopped at the Lyndon Baines Johnson Memorial Grove.  It is on an island on the south side of the Potomac River and is part of Washington DC.

After that we made our way to Captain White’s by the DC Wharf to by a dozen jumbo crabs for dinner at Lilian’s.

7/30 F – Helen spent the day with graduate school friend in Annapolis.  I left early for Rock Creek Park in DC.  My first stop was the Dumbarton Oaks mansion/museum adjacent to Rock Creek Park.  It is part of the Georgetown Historic District. The mansion was purchased in 1920 and donated to Harvard University for the Byzantine and Mediaeval Humanities Research Library and Collection.

There is a 10-acre formal garden behind the mansion

In 1940, 27-acres beyond the formal garden were donated to the NPS for Dumbarton Oaks Park, which is now part of Rock Creek Park. It is a nice little park in the middle of a historic neighborhood. 

Many embassies are located just north of the park.  I happened by the Sri Lankan embassy and was invited in for tea and to see their Buddha.

I then walked up MA Ave to the Kahill Gibran Memorial

My next stop was the Peirce-Klingle Estate mansion (1823) on Linnaean Hill.  It houses the Headquarters for Rock Creek Park.  Peirce established a nursery and built a mill along Rock Creek.

Rock Creek runs 33-miles from its source in Montgomery County to the Potomac River (Herring Highway).  Many mills were built along the waterway in the early 1800s.  Peirce Mill has been preserved and is part of Rock Creek Park.  Helen and I would come here when we were graduate students at the University of Maryland.

Inside workings of Peirce Mill

I then revisited The Old Stone House in Georgetown.  A house that was in Maryland when it was built before the Revolutionary War and then became part of Washington DC when the U.S. Capital was established.  Check out the tree growth 1970 to 2021 (51 years).

I then walked to the start of the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal, which is located where Rock Creek enters the Potomac River.

That is Mile 0 of the C & O Canal where there was a Tide Lock for boats to enter and exit the canal.  Boats would enter the Potomac River and go downstream to the Branch Canal that ran down present-day Constitution Ave. for off-loading.  A Lock Keeper’s House is still standing on the corner of Constitution Ave and 17^th St NW.

The fist several Locks for the canal are in Georgetown.

The C & O Canal Georgetown Visitor Center was not open and the boat ride through the locks was not available.

Afterward, I went to the Prince William Forest Park VA (Other) Visitor Center.  It was not open during my first visit here – see Blog for April 2017.

I then drove to Piscataway Park MD National Colonial Farm (Other NP Unit) to do some additional trails.  It is on the Potomac River opposite Mount Vernon (VA) – see Blog for October 2018.

I then revisited the farm (tobacco plantation) of Thomas Stone NHS – see Blog for April 2017.

7/31 Sat – My first stop was St Paul’s Rock Creek Episcopal Church Cemetery (1719) in Washington DC.

 An Adams Memorial was authorized by Congress in 2001 to honor John Adams (2^nd U.S. President), his wife and prolific writer, Abigail Adams; their son, the sixth President, John Quincy Adams; John Quincy Adams’ wife, Louisa Catherine Adams; and other members of the Adams family.  The memorial would also honor John Quincy Adam’s son, Charles Francis Adams, Sr., a Civil War diplomat, politician, and editor; and Charles’ two sons, Henry Adams, a noted historian and autobiographer, and academician Brooks Adams.  The deadline for construction has been extended several times.  An Adams Memorial Commission was approved in 2019 to complete the memorial in the vicinity of the National Mall by 2025.  To date, legislated appointments have not been made.

There is currently a well-known Adams Memorial in this cemetery.  It was erected in 1891 by author/historian Henry Adams, who was the son of Charles Adams, who was the son of President John Quincy Adams.   It is a memorial to his wife, Marian “Clover” Hooper Adams (1843-85).  Suffering from depression, she committed suicide.  Henry Adams commissioned prominent sculpture Saint-Gaudens to contemplate iconic images from Buddhist devotional art.  He cast an allegorical bronze sculpture of a seated shrouded figure.  There is a replica at his home in VT, which is a National Historic Site.

Helen and Tom Martin are memorialized with a nearby statue – notice that I am holding a football and Helen is depicted before her mastectomy.

In the afternoon I attended the annual convention of the National Park Travelers Club (NPTC) where I received the Platinum Lifetime Achievement Award for completing ALL 422 National Park Units.  These photos are from a Springfield News-Sun article that described my National Park journey.  It was published on 8/15/2021. 

The map contains roads driven (orange) and water paddled/traveled (blue).

Helen met me at Maggiano’s Little Italy restaurant in DC for the convention dinner.

8/1 Sun – It was a 3hr drive to Mays Landing NJ where we met our friends Dave and Carol.  Dave and I drove to a few sites along the Great Egg Harbor NSRR, which is within New Jersey Pinelands National Reserve (Affiliated NP Unit). See our Blog for June 2019.  First, here are two additional photos from the Weymouth Furnace site on the river.

Mays Landing is located on the river as well.  The Lenape Indians were here when the settlers arrived.  This statue is in front of the County Court House.  There is a dam on the river in Mays Landing that forms Lake Lenape.  Dave and I paddled upriver from this point a few years ago.

Col. Richard Wescott, of Mays Landing, fought in the Revolutionary War.

Two views along the Egg Harbor River –

The ruins of the Estellville Glass Factory in Atlantic County Park are also along the river.

8/2 M – went to Ocean City NJ, walked the beach, bought Shriver’s Salt Water Taffy, played cards, etc.  It was a fun day.

 8/3 Tu – Joined Fred and Liz for crabbing at their Oyster Creek “Shack,” which is in the Pinelands Reserve.  It was another great day with a yummy and beautiful ending.

8/4 W – It was a 5hr ride to Allegheny Portage Railroad NHS.  Chad and I visited here in October 2011 – see Blog.  On this trip, Helen and I spent more time in and around the Visitor Center.

Nice Model of the Summit Level.  The Allegheny Portage RR opened in 1834 and stopped operation in 1857 when railroads provided a more efficient and faster mode of transportation.

Engine House for pulling cars up inclines and lowering them down the other side under control

In 1826, Samuel Lemon and his wife built and ran a log tavern on the old turnpike that crossed the gap in the mountains.  They then built a large sandstone building to accommodate passengers and crew on the inclined RR.

The Johnstown Flood N MEM was only a half hour away.  Chad and I were here in October 2011 – see Blog.

5hrs to Springfield – what adventure awaits?

Traveled to Los Angeles to spend Easter with Kate.  Helen flew, I drove 8,400 miles round trip re-visiting about forty NP Units.  I slept in our SUV wherever I found myself at the end of each day. These visits were for both pleasure and to obtain additional photos and information related to these sites.  Some of these units are already on our Blog, some are not.  If I visited the unit before 2008 – it is new to this Blog.

3/24/21 W – to George Rogers Clark NHP in SW Indiana.  See Blog for May 2010.

 

Lincoln Boyhood Home N MEM in SW Indiana.  See Blog for May 2010.   Lincoln’s mother, Nancy Hanks Lincoln, died of milk sickness; she is buried here.

Shiloh NMP in TN.  See Blog for May 2012.  I arrived in the evening.

Here is some new information and photos related to the gunboats that participated in the battle.

I also visited Corinth MS, where the Confederates were headquartered during this two-day battle.

After the battle, the Federal forces supported a “Contraband Camp” for escaped slaves.

Shiloh NMP also contains the Shiloh Indian Mounds National Historic Landmark.  Eight hundred years ago, a town occupied the high river bluff overlooking the Tennessee River.

3/25 Th – President William Jefferson Clinton Birthplace Home NHS in Hope AR.  See Blog for May 2014.  Clinton lived here for seven years.  He was born in 1946 and his family moved to Hot Springs AR in 1953.

 

 

 

 

Poverty Point NM in LA.  See Blog for May 2010.  This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  When Stonehenge was being built and Queen Nefertiti ruled Egypt, American Indians were building earthen monuments in north LA.  This site is somewhat unique in the NP System in that it is run by the state of LA. 

Cane River Creole NHP in LA.  See Blog for May 2012 when we did Oakland Plantation.  On this trip, I did Magnolia Plantation.  Both were cotton plantations before and after the Civil War.

The Magnolia’s big house (private property) was burned during the Civil War.  It was rebuilt by the Hertzog family in 1896 and they still live there.

Overseer’s House and Hospital

Slave/Tenant Quarters made of brick – unusual.

Plantation Store

Natchez NHP in MS.  See Blog for August 2013.  On this trip I concentrated on Natchez history and Fort Rosalie.  Forts on the bluff overlooking the Mississippi River were controlled by the French, British, Spanish, and now Americans.

Rosalie Mansion is owned by the Mississippi Daughters of the American Revolution (DAR)

3/26 F – Our first visit to New Orleans was in December 1969 on our way to Mexico from MD in our new (used) VW camper. I have visited New Orleans many times, but this is my first New Orleans post to this Blog. These first photos are from 1990.

Jean Lafitte NHP and PRES has six sites.

I will start with the New Orleans French Quarter.  These photos are from 2004 – a visit to Jackson Square, a cruise on the paddleboat Natchez, and a night on the town. We enjoyed lots of Cajun food!

The remainder of the photos are from March 2021.  French iron work –

Joan of Arc – Maid of Orleans

Jean Lafitte NHP Vis Ctr

de Bienville Founder of New Orleans in 1717

Latrobe Square and French Market

The second site is Chalmette Battlefield.  It commemorates Andrew Jackson’s victory over the British in the Battle of New Orleans.  This battle took place on January 8, 1815 AFTER the U.S. and Britain ended the war with the Treaty of Ghent.  However, Congress did not ratify the treaty until February 1815, so fighting continued – seems senseless!  At the same time, it has to be recognized that there were lengthy delays in communication in 1815.

War of 1812

Battle of New Orleans

British positions

Packenham’s Fall

American positions

Chalmette Monument

Chalmette Plantation

Malus-Beauregard House

Afterward

Chalmette National Cemetery

Grand Army of the Republic Monument

The third site is Barataria Preserve (Marrero LA), 26,000 acres of marsh, swamp, and hardwood forest.

The Land is Sinking, and the Water is Rising

Visitor Center Trail

The fourth site is the Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center in Thibodaux.  First, the Wetlands adjacent to the Bayou Lafourche.

Then the Cultural Center

There are regular performances in the Auditorium (Theater)

The fifth site is the Acadian Cultural Center Lafayette.  There exhibits, films, program, and boat tours of Bayou Vermilion.

The Atakapa-Ishak Trail

Lafayette’s Festivals Acadiens is held each year

The sixth and final site of Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve is the Prairie Acadian Cultural Center in Eunice.  They have exhibits, Cajun music and dancing, cooking demonstrations and live radio programs at the Liberty Theater.

When in the French Quarter, I did a re-visit of New Orleans Jazz NHP.  In 1990, I was able to get tickets for a performance of the Preservation Hall Jazz Band, which was really great.  This time neither the Visitor Center nor Preservation Hall were open because of the COVID Pandemic.  Also, it is my understanding that both are being relocated to Louis Armstrong Park near Congo Square.

French ironwork balconies on Decatur St

New Orleans Jazz NHP Visitor Center on N Peters

Luncheon Jazz Band at the Market Café

Street performers at Latrobe Park

The New Orleans Jazz Museum is now located in the old U.S. Mint

3/27 Sat – Chad and I did a trip to Big Thicket N PRES in August 2013 – see Blog.  It is in SE TX north of Beaumont.  Visitor Center displays –

John and I hiked three trails in the Preserve.  The first was the Sundew Trail.  We did the one-mile outer loop.

   

Sundew plants – their sticky globules look like dew drops, attracting and holding insect to digest.

The second trail was another one-mile loop – the Pitcher Plant (insect eating) Trail

John at the start of the Beaver Slide Trail – bottomland hardwoods

Beaver Dam

Look what I found – bladderwort flower, another carnivorous plant.

Ok – am I going to cross the stream?

Cypress Slough

3/28 Sun – I had a 5-hour drive to Lyndon B. Johnson NHP, in Johnson City TX – also see Blog for May 2012.

Johnson City TX

The Johnson Settlement Trail (~1 mile) takes you through the Historical Park.  The first stop is Sam Ealy Johnson Sr.’s Cabin

After doing the Johnson Settlement Loop, the walk takes you to the LBJ Boyhood Home

The LBJ Ranch (Texas White House) and LBJ State Park and Historic Site are 14 miles W of Johnson City

Amistad National Recreation Area is in South Central TX on the Mexican border.  Amistad means “friendship” in Spanish.  The Amistad Dam on the Rio Grande River produced a reservoir that now provides for recreation.  Helen and I visited in 2006 but many of my photos did not come back from processing that year.  Therefore, I returned on this trip to fill the photo gap.

Visitor Center displays

Governors Landing

I did the short Diablo East Nature Trail

This is a photo from the end of Viewpoint Rd

Again, this is a National Recreation Area – Amistad Reservoir

3/29 M – arrived at Fort Davis NHS in west TX at 8am

Troops from Fort Davis protected immigrants, freighters, mail coaches, and travelers on the San Antonio – El Paso Road from Comanches and Apaches, 1854 to 1891.

Fort Davis

The fort is noted for its Buffalo Soldiers and bugle calls.  Historians think Indians named the black troops “Buffalo Soldiers,” because their hair resembled that of buffalos as well as their fighting ability.

Life was more deadly than battle –

Gatling Gun

My first visit to Guadalupe Mountains NP was in 1991 when I climbed Guadalupe Peak (8,751ft), the highest point in TX.  I did an early morning 8.8-mile hike (elevation gain of 2,927ft) in windy conditions.  High winds coming off the desert are common for this peak. 

Trailhead, peak, early morning photo, and illustration

There was a triangular stainless-steel monument on top with three insignias, one of which was for American Airlines, who paid to place it there.  The second was for the Post Office Department of the U.S. with the symbol of a Pony Express rider.  The third stated, “1858-1958, Dedicated to the airmen who, like the stage drivers before them, challenged the elements through this pass with the pioneer spirit and courage which resulted in a vast system of airline transport known as “American Airlines.”

Descent, nice trail –

In 2006, Helen and I attempted to climb the peak.  After about 3 miles, we came around the corner of a ridge and “got nailed by the wind.”  We fell to the ground; then crawled back, while being blown sideways.  I estimate the wind at over 100 mph.  It was the strongest wind I have ever encountered!  We were unable to continue and headed back to the car. 

On this trip, I went to the Frijole Ranch History Museum

And also did the McKittrick Canyon Nature Trail

It was only a half hour drive to Carlsbad Caverns NP.  When I crossed the border into New Mexico, I moved back one hour – from Central Time to Mountain Time.  I arrived at 2:15pm, the last time of the day that one could start the Self-Guided Tour through the caverns.

My first time in the caverns was in 1963 when on a road trip with friends.  Carlsbad Caverns NP was my very first National Park!  My second visit was in 1966 with my mother and three brothers.  Beside our hike into the cave, we also saw the “Bat Flight.”  We sat in awe as we watched the bats fly out of the cave in mass to forage in the surrounding dessert during that night.  I returned in 2006 with Helen and we did an audio tour of the caverns.

Model showing descent from Natural Entrance, Big Room, and elevator to Visitor Center.

On this trip, I hiked down 1.25 miles through the natural entrance, descending over 750ft.

View up before going deeper into the cave.

To Devil’s Den

Entering the “Big Room”

Giant Dome and Twin Domes

Fairyland

Mirror Lake

Huge

Crystal Spring Dome – largest active stalagmite in cave

Dolls Theater

Chinese Theater

I expected many people to be in the cave but that was not the case.  I saw no more than 15 people during my 2.5 hours in the caverns.  The solitude and quiet was wonderful!   The Big Room –

3/30 Tu – arrive at White Sands NP in south-central NM about 7:30am.  In 2019, it was upgraded from a National Monument to a National Park

I had been here with friends in 1963 – Ray, Chuck, Tom

And with family in 1966 – Joe, Pat, Tom

I did the Dunes Drive and hiked four short trails

For first hike was the one-mile Dune Life Nature Trail

I had to wait for the front-end loader to clear the parking lot of sand at the interdune boardwalk before parking

You Tube Video – Interdune Boardwalk Trail https://youtu.be/wQzpcED9Iqg

Dunes Drive to Alkali Flat Trail

Dune Sledding

Playa Trail – to barren dry lakebed

Departing Shot

It was 3.5hrs to Bowie AZ; then twenty minutes on the unpaved Apache Pass Road to the Fort Bowie NHS trailhead

Our first visit was on a cold day in 2010 – see Blog for March 2010

View from Visitor Center toward First and Second Forts

School Foundation, Parade Grounds (flagpole), and Second Fort Bowie Infantry barracks ruin in distance (white)

Sitting in ruin of First Fort Bowie

Infantry Barrack ruins at second Fort Bowie

Returned to Apache Pass Road by way of the Ridge Overlook Trail

Apache Pass

I arrived at Coronado N MEM in SE Arizona on the U.S.-Mexican border at about 5:30pm.  See Blog for March 2010.

My objective on this trip was to hike to and into Coronado Cave, about a mile roundtrip.  My first stop was the Visitor Center (closed).

It was getting dark, so I rushed to the Cave Trail parking area and started hiking up a stream bed, which I thought was the trail.  After about a mile I figured I must have missed the point where the trail left the stream bed.  I retraced my route but by the time I found the trail it was too dark to proceed.

“THE WALL”    U.S. – Mexican border

3/31 W – I arrived at Tumacacori NHP at 8am before it was open.  I saw a ranger and he allowed me into the park.  See Blog for March 2010 for information/photos from our first visit.

Jesuits started the mission in the 1690s and then in the early 1770s Franciscans took over and constructed what can be seen today.

My next stop was Saguaro NP – East, the Rincon Mountain District.  See Blog for March 2010 for our visit to Saguaro NP – West, Tucson Mountain District.  The Visitor Center was closed because of the pandemic, but all trails were open.

My first visit here was in 1963 with friends.

On this trip, I drove the Cactus Forest Loop Drive stopping to take for photos and to take short hikes.

Mica View Trail

Desert Ecology Trail

Freeman Homestead Trail

Continued North on I10 to Casa Grande Ruins NM.  Located in south-central AZ.  See Blog for March 2010 for previous visit.  The following map shows Indian Ruins across the four corners region.  As you will see shortly, after Casa Grande Ruins NM, I continued north to Hohokam Pima NM, Montezuma Castle NM, Tuzigoot NM, Sunset Crater NM and Wupatki NM – all Native American sites in Arizona.

Casa Grande – the “Big House”

Casa Grande is a unique four-story structure and remains a Sacred Place.  It was the centerpiece of the largest Hohokam village in the Gila River Valley.

Hohokam Pima NM is located a little further north in the Gila River Indian Community.  It was known as “Snaketown.”  See Blog for March 2019.  The site was excavated in the 1930s and then covered leaving nothing visible above ground.

There is a tribal cemetery nearby.

Proceeding north on I17, I stopped briefly at Montezuma Castle NM. 

The last time we visited here was in 2005 with friends we met in graduate school at the University of Maryland.

Montezuma Well is nearby.  Note the Indian drummer at the overlook.

I arrived at Tuzigoot NM at 4:30pm.  So, I only had a half hour to rush through the Visitor Center and do the 0.6mi Pueblo Trail before they closed.  We had a leisurely visit here in 2005, but I only had one photo from that trip.

It was a Southern Sinagua village built between 1000 and 1400, 120ft above the Verde Valley.

Tuzigoot is an Apache word for “crooked water” (Verde River). 

I drove through Sedona at sunset and then slept in Flagstaff

4/1 Th – I got coffee in Flagstaff (24 degrees this morning!) and arrived at Sunset Crater Volcano NM at about 8am.

On my first visit here in 1966, my brothers and I hiked to the top (1,000ft gain) and then ran down the side.  In 1982, I thought I was going to do that again.  However, I was told that it was no longer permitted to climb the crater.  I took this photo to show the paths that people previously followed – which scared the cinder cone.   

In 1998, Chad and I hiked the Lenox Crater Trail

On this trip, I hiked the Lava Flow Trail, a one-mile loop. 

Note that the trail scars are no longer visible on Sunset Crater (8,039ft) – nature can heal itself if we permit that to happen.

Lava

View of the San Francisco Peaks, including Humphreys Peak (12,633ft) – the highpoint of Arizona.  All were part of San Francisco Mountain.

View of Sunset Crater from the NE

See the previous map for Sunset Crater and Wupatki NMs.  I did the short walks to the six major pueblo ruins in Wupatki NM.  This was a repeat of previous visits in 1966 and 1998.

Wukoki Pueblo is built on a Sandstone outcrop.

Looking back at Sunset Crater (left) and San Francisco Peaks

The Wupatki Pueblo 0.5mi Trail (0.5mi) starts at the Visitor Center.  This 104-room pueblo was a regional trade center.

Chad on our 1998 trip

Blowhole

Ballcourt

Looking back at Wupatki from Ballcourt

Nalakihu and Citadel Pueblos

Box Canyon Pueblo

Lomaki Pueblo

Arrived in LA in time to go to the Burbank airport with Kate to pick up Helen for our Easter celebration.

11/5 Th – 9hrs to Rest Area on I-84 in PA outside Port Jervis NY

11/6 F – Hawks Nest Overlook was my first stop on the Upper Delaware National Scenic and Recreational River

Cowen Farm, NPS Ranger Station

Proof I was IN this National Park Unit

Eagle Observation Area

Roebling Aqueduct for canal boats crossing the Delaware River.  John A. Roebling was also the engineer for the Brooklyn Bridge

It was part of the canal that linked the Delaware and Hudson Rivers

Hiked the Towpath Trail

Zane Grey Museum

Minisink Battleground, after raiding Minisink (Port Jervis), Loyalists and Mohawk Indians decimated NY and NJ militias on this hill

The Delaware NSRR is 70 river miles long and is the border between NY and PA

No Survivors – 1763

Ten Mile River

Fort Delaware (1775-1785) – typical American settlement fortification

Skinners Falls Rapids

 

2.5hrs to Kate Mullany House National Historic Site (Affiliated) in Troy NY and a personal tour by Paul F. Cole, Executive Director of the American Labor Studies Center

At age 19 she founded the first all-female union in the U.S. – The Collar Laundry Union

Detachable collars were very popular, you did not have to clean the entire shirt, you could just clean and iron the collar!

In 1864, at age 25, Kate led a strike “Don’t Iron While the Strike is Hot.”

It resulted in a 25% increase in wages and improved collar worker’s conditions

After her father died, her mother purchased land and built this brick duplex with three units in each side of the row house. The family lived in the top right unit and rented out the other five for income. Kate lived in the apartment with her mother, three sisters, and brother. There are four tiny “bedrooms,” a parlor, a kitchen, and a small back porch. The outhouse and water were outside.

Kate married (John Fogarty) and moved to Buffalo, and later returned to Troy, dying in this apartment in 1906. She is buried in St. Peter’s Cemetery under a Celtic Cross.

Kate Mullany was the first woman appointed to a national labor position. She was inducted into the National Women’s Hall of Fame in Seneca Falls, NY in 2000. In 2016, she was entered in the Labor’s International Hall of Fame.

First Lady Hillary Rodham Clinton dedicated the Kate Mullany House as a National Historic Landmark in 1998. It was designated a National Historic Site in 2005. The house is owned and operated by the American Labor Studies Center. They hope to “officially” open the house for visitors in 2021.

 

It took me 40min to drive N to “Saratoga” now Schuylerville NY, a village in Saratoga County. The village is in the northeast part of the Town of Saratoga, east of Saratoga Springs. This is where British Gen. Burgoyne surrendered to American Gen. Horatio Gates on October 17, 1777, ten days after the second Battle at Saratoga Battlefield. The Village of Victory is adjacent to Schuylerville to the southwest and the Hudson River forms the village’s eastern border. I toured monuments and the Schuyler House in the evening and then slept in the SUV on Church St.

 

11/7 Sat – Drove 10 miles S to Saratoga National Historical Park, the location of the “Battles of Saratoga.” I arrived at the NPS Visitor Center as the sun was rising in the east.

I took this photo through the window of the Visitor Center, which was closed due to the pandemic

In 1777, British Gen. John Burgoyne moved down from Canada through Lake Champlain and the Hudson River Valley with a force of 4,000 British regulars, 3,200 Germans, 400 Iroquois, and 250 Canadian loyalists. At the same time, Col. Barry St. Leger moved east from Lake Ontario into the Mohawk Valley with his British troops. They were to meet in Albany and then join forces with Sir William Howe’s large army in New York City and destroy the rebellion.

At the beginning of American offensive action against the British in 1775, a small force of “Green Mountain Boys” had captured a small British garrison at Fort Ticonderoga on Lake Champlain. They were led by Ethan Allan and Benedict Arnold.

On July 6, 1777, after a four-day siege, Fort Ticonderoga fell to Gen. Burgoyne’s forces. American Gen. Philip Schuyler used delaying tactics to slow the British advance as they continued toward Saratoga. In mid-September, Burgoyne crossed the Hudson River at Saratoga (now Schuylerville) and continued south where he met a force of 8,000 Americans dug in at Bemus Heights on the Hudson River. The Americans were led by Gen. Horatio Gates, who had replaced Schuyler. The first “Battle of Saratoga” took place here on September 19^th.

The ten-mile tour road did not open until 9am, so I took a 4-mile hike across major sections of the battlefield. For clarity, the following photos are presented as though I was driving on the ten-mile, ten stop, tour road.

Stop 1 – Freeman Farm Overlook, the first battle at Freeman Farm took place on September 19, 1777.

Stop 2 – Neilson Farm, American defensive positions were located here, and the Patriots returned here after the first battle at Freeman Farm.

Stop 3 – American River Fortifications (Bemus Heights) on the Hudson River. Col. Tadeusz Kosciuszko, a Polish military engineer, directed the construction of these fortifications. They overlooked the Hudson River and controlled the road to Albany.

 

Stop 4 – Chatfield Farm, an American outpost position that noted the start of the second British attack on October 7, 1777.

The Ravine

Stop 5 – Barber Wheatfield, British Brig. Gen. Simon Fraser was mortally wounded here at the start of the October 7^th battle.

Stop 6 – Balcarres Redoubt, the first battle at Freeman Farm (9/19/1777) was considered a British victory because the Americans withdrew to their defensive positions. After the battle, the British built defensive positions of their own, including the Breymann and Balcarres Redoubts, on the Freeman Farm.

 

The British attacked the Americans on October 7^th. The American counterattack at the Barber Farm caused the British to withdraw to these defensive positions.

The Canadian Cabins were taken in the American assault

Stop 7 – Breymann Redoubt

Gen. Benedict Arnold, though relieved of his command by Gen. Gates, led one of the attack columns. He then participated in the successful attack on the Breymann Redoubt. He suffered a leg wound as he entered the redoubt.

The Boot Monument commemorates Arnold’s service in the Continental Army BUT does not name him! After Saratoga, Arnold felt he was slighted and insulted by the Continental Congress. He was in command of the American fortifications at West Point NY in 1780 when he changed sides (turncoat) and attempted to give his command to the British. He was rewarded with the British rank of Brig. Gen and 6,000 pounds! He led British raiding parties for the rest of the war.

Stop 8 – Burgoyne’s Headquarters (September 19 through October 7, 1777)

 

Stop 9 – The Great Redoubt and British Hospital

Stop 10 – Fraser Burial Site

Burgoyne’s Retreat to Saratoga

As mentioned above, I visited the following sites the previous evening – surrender at the Village of Saratoga (now Schuylerville) on October 17, 1777.

The British had established a supply depot here – Fort Hardy

The 155-foot Saratoga Monument is located about one mile away in the town of Victory.

The stone obelisk was completed in 1883

 

I also stopped at the nearby Schuyler House

4hr drive (200mi) to Lexington Common National Historic Site.

Paul Revere and rode from Boston toward Concord to warn Colonials that the British were coming! He warned John Hancock and Samuel Adams in Lexington and continued his ride west. The Lexington militia, led by Captain Parker, took positions on the Lexington Green and met the British at 5am on April 19, 1775. No one knows who fired the first shot but afterward 8 militia were dead and 10 wounded. The British had one wounded and continued toward Concord.

Captain Parker Statue

Lexington Green

Entering Minute Man National Historical Park

Did Paul Revere warn the militia in Concord that the British were coming?

Paul Revere and William Dawes left Boston and took different routes to warn the Colonials in Concord (militia armory) that the British were coming. They joined in Lexington and met Dr. Samuel Prescott who was returning to Concord. The three then continue the ride west. Paul Revere was captured at 1am on April 19, 1775 at this location on the Old Concord Road. William Dawes escaped and returned to Lexington. Dr. Prescott also escaped and was able to continue to Concord. So, it is he who warned the Colonials in Concord that the British were coming! We must be aware that “History” can be re-interpreted and re-written and be careful to check the authenticity of our sources.

Samuel Whitney, muster master of the Concord militia, lived in this house along the battle road in 1775. It was purchased by writers Louisa May Alcott and then Nathaniel Hawthorne, it was a stop on the Underground Railroad.

British reach Concord and burn the armory. Militia think their homes are burning and several hundred come out of the hills to the North Bridge. British soldiers fire and kill two-colonials. Militia return fire – this would become known as the “shot heard round the world.” Monument on the “British side” of the North Bridge –

The Minute Man statue is located on the “Colonist side” of the North Bridge

The British retreated and were harassed all the way back to Charlestown. At the end of the day, the British had 73 dead and 174 wounded. Colonials lost 49 men with 41 wounded – the Revolutionary War had begun!

Old Manse

 

1.6hr (100mi) drive to Hartford CT and Coltsville National Historical Park on the banks of the Connecticut River (Authorized NP Unit – 2014).

When the historic brownstone buildings 8 & 10 (Forge and Foundry) are transferred to the National Park Service, it will become an official NHP! A van now serves as the “Visitor Center.”

The main Armory factory has an iconic blue dome with stars, topped by a rearing colt statue.

Samuel Colt started his Hartford factory in 1847. There were years of mismanagement and failure before demand for Colt’s revolver would result in a successful Colt Patent Fire-Arms Manufacturing Company. After Samuel Colt died in 1862 (age 47), his wife Elizabeth ensured that the industrial empire flourished for over 40 years.

The area is an urban renewal zone. For example, the Thomas Hooker micro-brewery is in a building of the armory complex.

An industrial village evolved that provided practical, spiritual, and recreational opportunities for armory workers. The armory worker housing has been converted into apartments.

There are also apartments in the Samuel and Elizabeth Colt’s mansion – Armsmear

Carriage House

James B. Colt House (1855), Samuel’s brother lived just down the street. He served as Treasurer of Colt’s Manufacturing Company.

The Historical Park includes the Church of the Good Shepherd

What is now Colt Park, was part of the Samuel and Elizabeth Colt estate

Slept in the SUV at a Service Area on the NJ Turnpike, I used an eye shade to block out the lights

 

See Part 2 – DC, VA, and WV; posted December 2020

 

 

This post includes:

Katmai N PRES, Alagnak Wild River, Aniakchak N PRES, Denali N PRES, Noatak N PRES, Kenai Fjords NP, Inupiat Heritage Center (Affiliated NP Unit), Glacier Bay N PRES, and Gates of the Arctic N PRES

Lake Clark N PRES, and Wrangell-Saint Elias N PRES can be found on this Blog under July 2011

Yukon-Charley Rivers N PRES,  and Bering Land Bridge N PRES can be found on this Blog under August 2012

9/1/2020 Tu – I had to complete a COVID Declaration and have proof of a negative test before entering Alaska.

TSA took my peanut butter at the Dayton airport! All flights were about one-third full today with everyone required to wear a face mask, except for eating or drinking. I liked watching my flight information on my personal screen. The screen map showed us flying over Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta, British Columbia, and Yukon Territories of Canada and then into Alaska. After consuming 3 airline zip lock snack bags and two of Helen’s turkey sausage sandwiches, I was full when the plane arrived in Anchorage at 5:40pm (9:40pm OH time). I felt younger, having gone back in time four hours.

9/2/20 W – My 47-minute Alaska Air flight arrived in King Salmon at noon. It was windy, cold (53 degrees) and raining as Alexi (pilot) and I pushed the float plane away from the Katmai Air dock on the Naknek River. We flew east over Naknek Lake

Then north over Katmai National Park

Then to a peninsula on the north shore of Novianuk Lake, which is in Katmai N PRES

We landed at Agate Beach on the east side of the peninsula

Landing

We were on the leeward side of the peninsula. Without the wind, the conditions were comfortable.

After the plane was anchored to the beach, we started exploring.  Agate Beach is named for the abundance of agate rock on the beach.

The moving clouds, rain, and backlight from the beach, made it difficult to take photos, but Alexi did a good job taking this one –

After about 30 minutes, we took-off and flew west over the now closed Royal Wolf Lodge

It was raining as we followed the Alagnak Wild River west under the clouds. The river originates from Kukalek Lake in Katmai N PRES and flows generally west to Bristol Bay. It is a prime salmon fishing river.

Alexi circled a spot on the river several times making sure she was set up for a tricky river landing. We landed at a place called Cutbank at Estradas, for the now empty cabin that still sits on the north side of the river.

The Alagnak Wild River is somewhat channeled here allowing for a landing. For most of its course to Bristol Bay it is spread out and shallow. Alexi skillfully tied off the plane to a solid tree root ball and we proceeded to explore the area.

We did not see any animals but did see lots of tracks along the river. I had to have my photo taken in the river so I could prove that I had truly experienced this National Park Unit. The river take-off was a bit “hairy” due to the river current, but we made it fine and were back in King Salmon in about 20 minutes.

I had rented a primitive cabin from the Antler’s Inn for two nights. I was cold, weary, and hurting because of my wet feet/legs and being bounced about in the small plane. As soon as I got in the cabin, I got out of my wet leggings and water shoes, turned on the heat in the cabin, and got under the covers to get warm.

I had a fit-full night with aches/pains and the 4-hour time change, but plenty of time to get back to physiological and psychological “normal” by morning.

9/3/20 Th – Chris Klosterman, my Trygg Air pilot, picked me up at 10:30. He said Trygg meant safe in “Scandinavian.” He fueled his plane and loaded some supplies including fuel containers for a stop at Pilot Point on the Bering Sea. We took off about 11:15am.

The flight there was over baren but beautiful country. The colors and contrasts were wonderful no matter what light was available. The weather was mixed with clouds, rain, and a bit of sun – Bering Sea in distance

We saw one bear and lots of birds flying south. Chris said some of them were swans. Chris shared one of his mother’s homemade Norwegian cinnamon rolls and I shared my beef jerky.

Landing at Pilot Point, supplies were off-loaded, and the fuel containers we were carrying were filled. A large tent was also loaded for a drop off at a hunting lodge on Cub Creek.

We took off and flew south, bouncing, due to a strong wind, toward the east side of the Aniakchak Caldera – approaching Aniakchak National Monument

The break in the caldera wall releases the water from Surprise Lake in the caldera. This break is called “The Gates.” It marks the start of the Aniakchak River.

Caldera model – The Gates, right center

Pinnacle Mountain

Waterfall at start of Cub Creek on the south flank of Aniakchak Peak (snow in background). We landed at a tiny clearing by the creek in the National Preserve. Fuel containers, tent, and supplies were off-loaded for the lodge. Moose season was starting in four days.

After a quick take-off in the rain, we headed for nearby Meshik Lake in a rain squall

Meshik Lake is at an elevation of about 500 feet. There is a small stream that flows west from the lake to the Bearing Sea, while another small stream flows east from the lake to the Pacific Ocean – a unique geological feature!  Some members of the National Park Travelers Club (NPTC) have their float plane pilot “skim off” Meshik Lake and then return to King Salmon. They then say they have been in Aniakchak N PRES – I do not think that is legitimate. I feel you must at least walk in the National Park Unit in order to say you have been there.

We followed the Aniakchak River east

Approaching Aniakchak Bay.

Chris did an exciting landing on the beach just below the area where the Columbia River Packers Cabin was once located. I did videos to show the incredibly short distance that was needed by the Beaver aircraft to land on and take-off from the beach. There is a building above the beach that serves as a cabin and maintenance location for the National Preserve.

YouTube video

We explored the beach area and checked out the cabin

We then hiked to the lagoon that empties into Aniakchak Bay

We saw flocks of birds, seals, and amazing scenery

Heading back to plane (in center)

A bear had gotten there before us

Our time here was way too short. It was pristine, raw, and beautiful. I believe if I were ever forced to choose my favorite National Park Unit, it would be the combined Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve. The time had come to return to civilization. We took-off and flew west.

YouTube video of take-off – look for bear crossing Aniakchak River after take-off

We had to fly through a few rain squalls along the way

There were more bears, but I was too slow with my camera to get any photos. About halfway to the caldera, we turned north and headed back to King Salmon

I enjoyed sitting in the co-pilot seat of this sturdy DH Beaver aircraft

We landed about 4pm, making it a 4.75hr excursion.

By landing at Pilot Point, Cub Creek, and Aniakchak Bay on this trip, and also having landed in (on Surprise Lake) and explored the caldera of the volcano in 2012, I feel I have truly experienced Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve.

9/4/20 F – This was my backup day in case weather prevented my flight yesterday. After my granola and tangerine breakfast, I walked across the highway and took a picture of myself sticking my head through a moose billboard that was an advertisement opposing the Peeble Mine. It is a proposed gold mine that would devastate the local environment and pollute Bristol Bay – the largest salmon fishing area in the world.

I then went to the Katmai NP office and met with Ranger Burt, who provided me with stamped brochures of the area National Park Units.

Afterward, I had an unpleasant 1.5 mile walk back to my cabin. The gnats were terrible! I had my cap, hood, and facemask on, and used my hands to act like windshield wipers across my face. Despite my efforts, I had several bites on my face, ears, and neck by the time I got back to the cabin. My Katmai Air flight leaving King Salmon was delayed by two hours. I took this photo of Redoubt Volcano on my flight to Anchorage – it last erupted March to July 2009.

I rented a car and met Peter and Kate at our hotel. It was 9pm and they were waiting for pizza they had ordered. We had all tested negative for COVID-19, so were able to hug and enjoy our time together un-masked!

9/5/20 Sat – We awoke (5:45am) to a beautiful day! There were low level clouds and fog as we drove north on A1 and then A3 toward Talkeetna.

Just before Talkeetna, you come around a curve and get a spectacular view of Denali (formerly Mt. McKinley).

We stopped by the Mount McKinley Cemetery to see the memorials to several climbers who died on the mountain. I took a photo of the names of the six climbers who died in 1995, the year I attempted to climb the mountain.

We met our helicopter pilot Danielle at the Talkeetna Air office and received instructions for our flight to Denali N PRES – Take-off view of Mount Foraker and Denali

Kahiltna River

Dutch Hills

The Heli was a spiffy blue color with an outstanding wrap around window for excellent vision.

Kahiltna Glacier

Peter and Kate Selfie

It took about a half hour to fly west to the N PRES

West and East Forks of the Yentna River

Mount Kiskon 3,943ft

We landed on a ridge just below the top of Mt. Kinston at a spot called 3270 for its altitude.

On the way there, we saw swans, eagles, and three bears (Papa, Mama, and Baby – just kidding). Kate took this picture of a black bear.

After an amazingly smooth landing, we moved about the ridge taking photos

After leaving the ridge, we flew north up the East Fork of the Yentna River. The Yentna Glacier is in the center of this photo –

Glacial moraine and toe of the Dahl Glacier – we have great photos as well as videos of our entire trip

Out next stop was a gravel bar on the East Fork of the Yentna River just north of where it joins the West Fork.

The helicopter was not permitted to land in the N PRES. So, from here we did a short walk into the N PRES for some photos. This was my #413 National Park Unit.

On the way to and on the return from the N PRES, we had great views of Denali, Mt Foraker, and many other peaks in Denali National Park to the north. On the way out of Talkeetna, we stopped at the Denali Brewing Company for a cold one –

An hour down the road, we did a two-mile hike to Thunderbird Falls in Eklutna

We then drove to Wasilla, Sarah Palin’s hometown. Remember, she said she could see Russia from her back door, check out the map. The Iditarod Trail Museum is located there.

As we approached the Salmon Viewing Platform on Ship Creek in Anchorage, we saw a Mama bear and her three cubs cross the road in front of us.

There were many salmon in the creek preparing to swim up the “fish ladder” to their spawning spots.

I was driving, so, Peter and Kate had no choice but to go along with me to several Anchorage sites. The first was the Eisenhower Statehood Monument

Then the old Alaskan RR Engine at the Railroad Terminal

Then the Captain Cook Monument in Resolution Park

Then Earthquake Park on the Kirk Arm of the Cook Inlet. In 1964, the largest earthquake to hit North America this century struck this area. The 9.2 quake produced a 40-foot tidal wave that destroyed Seward, hit CA, and did not stop until it crashed into Antarctica.

9/6 Sun – It took an hour to drive back north to Reflection Lake, but it was not as impressive as it was yesterday in the fog. While there I decided that, instead of a glacier walk on the Manatuska Glacier, Peter and Kate should do the Talkeetna Air flightseeing experience, including landing on the Kahiltna Glacier of Denali. I felt they should not pass up the beautiful day we were having. Most days of the years it is not even possible to see Denali! We made the reservation and then continued driving to Talkeetna.

After checking in for the flight, I called Chris, the Denali NP Ranger I had been communicating with, and he agreed to meet me at the closed Visitor Center to pass on a park brochure.

We then did a short walk across the old Alaskan RR bridge and then on a gravel/sand bar to where three rivers come together – the Chulitna, Susitna and Talkeetna Rivers.

A scenic spot where we had a clear view of the rivers, Mount Foraker, and Denali

Kate then treated us to burgers at “Shirley’s World-Famous Burger Barn.”

The next task was for Peter and Kate to weigh in and pick out their boots for the glacier landing.

They did the “Mountain Voyager” tour, with Kate getting to sit in the co-pilot seat.

They had a fantastic flight and took a lot of outstanding photos and videos. The following are just a sample –

By the time they took off from the Kahiltna Glacier, Denali was being covered in clouds

9/7/20 M – Our Alaska Air flight left Anchorage at 10:30am and arrived Kotzebue (above the Arctic circle) at noon. We filled-out our COVID paperwork at the airport and then walked 0.5 mile, pulling our suitcases, to Sue’s B & B, now only a B.

We then walked along Kotzebue Sound – population about 3,200\

They are taking the pandemic seriously here. Also, no alcohol sold in this native settlement because of the lack of tolerance and abuse by indigenous peoples.

We passed a man who was drying “she fish.” He said that white folks did not like this fish because it had too many bones!

We played a lot of games during our time together, especially at night and when it was raining

It was raining at 9:30pm when I noticed a glow outside. We rushed to Kotzebue Sound to see a beautiful sunset.

Peter and Kate were excited when seals “popped up” to say Hi. Sue brought us heaters for our rooms, and we settle into bed about 11pm.

9/8/20 Tu – I was up and out at 5am in hopes of seeing the Aurora Borealis. It was clear and cold with a half moon, but no Northern Lights. Light was coming through clouds to the East as I returned to the room. We waited all morning for a text from Jared of Golden Eagle Outfitters Inc. Air Taxi – “Trust Us with Your Life, Not Your Daughter or Wife.” I had arranged for him to fly us into Gates of the Arctic and Noatak National Preserves.  We passed the time by playing Farkle, Aces to Kings, and snacking. I decided to call Deanna, a NP Ranger, and meet her at the Western Arctic Heritage Center. She gave us stamped brochures for the parks but was not allowed to let us in the Visitor Center.

We continued across the street so I could talk to Jared about our scheduled flight into Gates of the Arctic N PRES and the Noatak N PRES. He said the weather was not good for the flight to The Gates, so I suggested we do the short flight to the Noatak N PRES today, and try to do The Gates tomorrow. After all of my communication (e.g. emails, phone calls), I was disappointed in Jared’s seeming lack of concern and communication related to my attempt to get into these two national preserves.

Jason was the pilot of our Cessna for the 25min flight from Kotzebue to a gravel landing strip along the Agashashak River in Noatak N PRES – Leaving Kotzebue

Noatak River emptying into Kotzebue Sound – then Chukchi Sea – then Arctic Ocean

Following the Noatak River north

Turning east and following the Agashashok River into Noatak N PRES. We saw three muskoxen resting on a ridge.

Landing in preserve, it was overcast with a temperature of 46 degrees

We explored the immediate area, taking photos, and chatting

Ready for take-off on short gravel strip.  This was Peter’s and Kate’s first flight in a “Fat Tire Plane” – able to make landings and take-offs in a few hundred feet.

Agashashok River emptying into Noatak River

Looking across Cape Krusenstern National Monument to the Arctic Ocean

Approaching Kotzebue – note its position at the tip of the Baldwin Peninsula

After returning to our room, we played games, and then went back to the Bayside Inn for dinner.  We walked by a stand where an EPA observer was stationed to count whales and other animals in the Sound. She said it was in relation to some heavy construction that was being done in the village.

We then explored another part of the village

We packed and “hoped for” a trip to The Gates the next morning.

9/9/20 W – Peter arrived at 7am with coffee. His face was red. He said he could not hear us because the blustery winds had temporarily affected his hearing. He said the north wind was crashing waves over the road at the Sound. Jared texted at 7:45am stating that the weather would not permit a flight to The Gates today. I checked the weather for the next day, which was another backup day, but it looked even worse.

We played games while considering what to do. By mid-morning, it had cleared somewhat, but the wind was still ripping through Kotzebue. We packed and walked the half mile to the airport. Our pant bottoms, boots, and the bottoms of our suitcases were caked in mud by the time we got there. Stopped by this sign for a photo –

I again asked if there was any possibility of flying to The Gates today – no, was the answer. Jared gave me the name and number for the Bettles Lodge on the east side of Gates of the Arctic N PRES and said it would be easier to access the preserve from that location with a float plane. His “fat tire plane” required a low water level in the Kobuk River to land on a gravel bar next to the river in the preserve. I had checked Brooks Aviation, which flies out of Bettles when I was planning my trip, but it was closed because of the pandemic. I did not know that the Bettles Lodge, had a float plane option and was open.

I changed the reservations for Peter and I so we could fly back to Anchorage today with Kate instead of tomorrow. It was a short walk to the Alaska Air terminal, and we were in the air to Anchorage at 1pm. Arrived ANC at 2:15pm. I was in and out of the Anchorage airport five times during this trip!

I rented a car and we drove to our hotel. I searched the internet for two hours gathering information on how I might get to Bettles and into the The Gates before I left Alaska. I contacted Bettles Lodge, and the young woman said it was not possible to make arrangements to get to The Gates. I asked her to have the owner contact me the next day.

We walked to Gweenie’s Old Alaska Restaurant for dinner – which way to go?

On the way back, we stopped to watch float planes land on Lake Spenard.

When back at the room, we convinced Kate to stay another day, so she could go to Kenai Fjords NP with us tomorrow.

9/10/20 Th – After a continental breakfast in our room, due to the pandemic, we were off to Kenai Fjords National Park and Seward.

It was another beautiful day reaching the high fifties. Did a few scenery stops on the way down – Bird Point on Turnagain Arm

Tom and Helen

Arrived at the outwash of the Resurrection River at 11am

First view of Exit Glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park

Entrance

Start of trail – we did the Nature Trail and the Lower and Upper Exit Glacier Loop Trails

View from Nature Trail

Lower Exit Glacier Overlook

Trail to Upper Glacier Overlook

Upper Exit Glacier Overlook

I had originally planned on also hiking the Harding Ice Field Trail but instead decided to hike up the Wash Trail as far as we could go toward the toe of Exit Glacier.

I had done that in 1995 and was able to walk on the glacier!

Now, twenty-five years later, the glacier had receded so far up the canyon, that it was too dangerous to approach. I had to use my hiking stick for the first time to help with my balance when walking over the boulders and climbing on the rocks.

Kate and I got as close as we could and I took a great video of her, hair blowing in the wind, with the canyon, glacier, and roaring glacial stream in the background.  In total, we hiked about five miles.

You Tube video of Kate – “Beauty at Exit Glacier – Alaska”   https://youtu.be/2yD8UMe5ud0

We drove to Seward and took some photos at the Mariners Memorial on Resurrection Bay

The National Park Information Center was closed because of the pandemic

Went to Ray’s Seafood Restaurant for a late lunch/dinner. We had a window table with a great view of Resurrection Bay, the marina, the mountains, and seals popping up in the harbor.

It was a beautiful and laidback drive to Anchorage, everyone was tired. We got in about 6pm, made phone calls, posted photos, and got re-organized. Peter left at 8pm for his red eye flight back to Indy.

9/11/20 F – Kate was up at 3:30am for her flight back to LA. We said goodbye in the lobby, and I went back to bed for a couple of hours and then prepared for my Alaska Air flight to Barrow.

There was clear weather for the first half of the flight. I took a good 5.5min video as we flew over Denali (20,320ft) at an altitude of 40,000 feet. When we landed in Barrow (Utqiagvik), it was 35 degrees, wind 15-20mph, with light snow. This is a view of Point Barrow (northern most point in the U.S.) and the Arctic Ocean.

I was in the U.S. but a LONG way from home –

After COVID screening, my first task was to walk a block to the Wiley Post – Will Rogers Memorial. They died when their experimental seaplane crashed 16 miles short of Barrow. Wiley Post was a well-known early aviation pioneer and Will Rogers, a Cherokee from Oklahoma, was a famous actor, vaudevillian, cowboy, columnist, humorist, and radio personality. As I was setting up my tiny tripod on my suitcase, an Inupiat boy came by with his two friends on bikes and asked if I wanted him to take my picture. I said sure; afterward, I gave him an unexpected tip.

Some friends of his then showed up on an ATV. The female driver asked if I wanted to see a “wheelie.” I again said yes, and she proceeded to do one while laughing and heading down the gravel street.

I then walked 1.5 miles carrying my backpack and pulling my suitcase on the wet, gravel and mud roads to Iliasagvik Community College where the Inupiat Heritage Center, an Affiliated National Park Unit, is located. I wore two layers on my legs, three layers on my upper body, my Gore-Tex jacket, a fleece hat under the hood of the jacket – and I was still cold because of the stiff wind coming off the Arctic Ocean. I took some photos of myself and then proceeded another half mile to the Latitude 71 B & B. Nice room but no breakfast, because the owners had left that afternoon on the plane that I arrived on – for a vacation in warmer weather!

I settled in, warmed-up, and then walked to the Arctic Ocean

It was a half mile to the Niggivikput Hotel, also known as the “Top of the World Hotel.” They have some nice displays in their lobby.

A popular native craft is painting scenes on the baleen of whales caught off Point Barrow

Behind the hotel, on the Arctic Ocean, are a couple of old boats and whale bones, they made a nice backdrop for some photos.

I ordered the Reindeer Scrambler at their, one customer at a time take-out restaurant (because of the pandemic), and took it back to the Latitude 71 – it was delicious AND I had enough leftovers for breakfast the next morning!  That night, I set my phone alarm every two hours and got up to look for the Northern Lights – no luck, just tired in the morning!

9/12/20 Sat– I got myself organized in the morning and started walking through the village at 11:30am. I stopped at the local cemetery for some photos and then started walking toward the airport.

I came across Captain Frederick Brower cutting up his portion of a recently caught whale.

As a result of this encounter, I wrote the following article and submitted it to the Ideas and Voices column of the Springfield News-Sun for Columbus Day, which is now also identified as Indigenous Peoples’ Day.

Global Warming Impact on Indigenous People

Indigenous Peoples’ Day, October 12, 2020.  There are many indigenous people (Native Americans) in the U.S.  This article focuses on the Inupiat who live in Utqiagvik (Barrow) Alaska, population ~4,000, on the Arctic Ocean.  The Inupiat are part of the Inuit Ethnic Group.  In 2016, residents voted to change the name of their village (city) from Barrow back to the Inupiat name Utqiagvik.  This was one part of a local effort at “decolonization.” The Inupiat Heritage Center is located here and is an Affiliated National Park Unit.

While walking through the Browerville part of Utqiagvik, I met Frederick Brower, a native whaling captain. His family have been leaders in this community for generations.  He was processing his allotted parts of a whale he and his crew had caught a few days earlier off Point Barrow, the northernmost point of the U.S. He was preparing the meat and making oil from the fat.  In addition, he had a stack of other whale parts, such as bones and baleen, that he was giving to native artists for their various crafts. He explained that the crew and community also shared in the catch with all receiving portions of the whale. Further, he said he could have pursued another whale but rather it was the custom to help other whalers after an individual catch was made.

Making whale oil, notice the seal skins –

We discussed climate change, the resultant loss of ice in the Arctic Ocean, sea level rise, and the melting of the permafrost causing structures to fail in this area. Global Warming is seriously affecting the wildlife of this area (e.g. caribou, seals, walrus, polar bears, birds, etc.), as well as the Inupiat and their way of life.  At the current and projected increasing rate of deterioration, the community may have to relocate by the end of the century.  The native community has lived here for thousands of years.  They have attempted to slow the erosion by placing large blocks of tundra wrapped in plastic on shore, but waves continuously wash them out to sea.

Global Warming is REAL; it not only affects our indigenous people; it directly or indirectly affects all of us. The big take away is that we need to recognize what is happening. The next step is to work at solutions to the problem. One piece of the solution is to protect what remains of our natural environment, including its indigenous people.  In that regard, we must oppose the destructive policies that are championed by the fossil fuel industry, mining companies, and the lumber industry. Through lobbying and political contributions, they have excessive influence on our government laws, rules, and regulations. History has demonstrated that, because of a maximum profit philosophy, these industries have been unable to act in a socially conscious way. Their greed has too often resulted in destruction of the environment. We need to demand that our government representatives support protection and preservation of our incredible natural resources. We also need to play our part in this battle. It is not only necessary for the preservation of the world as we know it but also for our own personal health and that of future generations.

In the end, it is quite simple; do you support greed and destruction of the natural world OR community values and a healthy environment for everyone, like the indigenous Inupiat?

After our conversation, I started walking to the airport. Several locals stopped and asked if I wanted a ride, but I declined, saying that I needed the exercise. At the airport, not only were my backpack and suitcase pulled aside for internal inspection, I was also randomly selected for a “pat-down.” Our 737 had to be de-iced before we were able to leave for Anchorage.

After landing, I got settled in the Comfort Suites for the fourth time and then walked to Wendy’s for a carryout burger meal deal. On the way back, I stopped at Lake Spenard, as the sun was setting in the SW, to watch float planes landing. Lake Hood/Lake Spenard (they are connected) Seaplane Base is the busiest one in the world; it handles over 700 take-offs and landings a day.

I now had computer access and phone service at the hotel. I again contacted the Bettles Lodge and checked weather forecasts for the middle of the week to see if it was possible to get into Gates of the Arctic N PRES before I left Alaska. After determining that the probability was greater than fifty percent, it took me 3hrs to change seven reservations and make three new ones in an attempt to check off my next NP Unit. The airlines were the worst, long phone wait times, and increased fares for all flights!

9/13/20 Sun – I was up at 6am to continue my trip planning and diary. I left for the airport at noon and my flight to Yakutat took off at 3:15pm. It was another good weather day and I had terrific views east from the plane as we flew south along the Alaska coastline.

Landing in Cordova

Flight from Cordova to Yakutat – Scott Glacier

Copper River Delta on right –

See Yakutat on bottom righthand side of this map –

Landing in Yakutat, note airstrip. Mount Saint Elias (18,008ft) and Mount Logan (19,551ft), highpoint of Canada, can be seen in background.

I arrived at 5:43pm, checked into the Yakutat Lodge at the airport, and then went to the Yakutat Coastal Airlines office next door. Tanya, wearing her mask, came out to meet me – no one allowed in the office because of the pandemic. She stated I would have to come back the next morning at 10am and they would fit me in among the flights to take fishermen to area fishing camps. The salmon were running and there were lots of fishermen there.

I then took a short walk to the NPS office. It was closed but I was able to pick up park brochures/information from an outside rack.

Next, a Mongolian Beef and Broccoli over Rice dinner special and an Alaska Brewery White beer at the Yakutat Lodge Restaurant.

While there, Tanya showed up and told me I could go out at 8am the next morning. I said that was great because it would allow me to move-up my reservation back to Anchorage by one day. I spent the next two hours changing all (nine) of my remaining reservations.

I retired to my cabin across the road to find that the heat was off, I could not drink the water, the coffee maker did not work, and the alarm clock was broken. Fortunately, I was able to get them to turn on the heat!

9/14/20 M – I was up early, ate my suitcase food, and was at the Air Taxi across the road, where there were eight fishermen ready to go, at 7:45am. At 8am, Tanya said I would have to wait for the next group at 8:30. At 8:30, she said I would have to wait for the group at 9am. I was now worried I might not be able to make my new reservation – 11:45am flight back to Anchorage. At 9am, she informed me that I would be with the last group at 9:30! I immediately checked in for my ANC flight, to maximize the time I would have after returning from the Glacier Bay National Preserve to catch the Air Alaska plane.

We did leave at 9:30am and flew SE past Yakutat Glacier

Then crossed Dry Bay – the Alsek River flows into Dry Bay and then enters the Gulf of Alaska.

The fishermen were dropped off at the Doame River Lagoon, that is a river/lagoon/ocean location that is within Glacier Bay National Preserve

Hans, pilot of the Otter, then flew me to a tiny airstrip (more like a short gravel road) along the East Alsek River in the preserve

I had previously arranged for Rangers Adam and Mary to meet me there. I learned their cabin was about 0.3 mile away and started walking.

About halfway there, they met me on their ATVs in full gear (guns, etc.).

They said to follow them to the cabin/office area.

They were very kind, providing me with written and verbal information about the preserve. This is a very nice illustration of the Glacier Bay National Preserve area.

My 415^th National Park Unit

Pictures of the preserve

My time was limited; I had to hustle back to Hans for my flight back to Yakutat

View flying back NW across Dry Bay

Ustay Lake at the toe of Ustay Glacier

Landing at the Yakutat airfield. I just made my Alaska Air flight and ate my Mongolian Beef leftovers on the way (39min) to Cordova.

Icy Bay and Mount Saint Elias

Bering Glacier

Chugash National Forest

Scott Glacier

It took 45min to load the fishermen and their fish in Cordova for the next leg of the flight to Anchorage.

I had rented a car to drive 7hrs to Fairbanks after I arrived. However, I decided it would be too stressful to accomplish that and still make my flight early the next day to Bettles. So, I canceled the car and booked an Alaskan Air flight (45min) to Fairbanks.

After landing in Fairbanks, I took a taxi to the Clarion, bought a cup of soup to add to my beef jerky and rice crackers for dinner and went to bed.

9/15/20 Tu – At midnight I woke up sweating and discovered that the thermostat (AC) was not working. Then the alarm woke me up at 5:22am – I had not set it! It went off two more times 15min apart, so I unplugged it. I complained at checkout, but the clerk offered no recourse. He did call someone, who told him I should have opened the window!

I took a taxi to Wright Air for my 9:15am flight to Bettles. There were two other passengers, and the rest of the single engine Otter was stuffed with cargo.  Note the plastic separation from the pilot because of the pandemic.

Flying north from Fairbanks to Bettles

It was drizzling when we arrived at 11am. I met the owner of the Lodge at the airstrip and then took a quick tour of the Lodge, which is on the National Register of Historic Places.

I took full advantage of the National Park Visitor Center near the airfield, visiting it three times during my time in Bettles

Topographical wall map section showing Nutuvutki Lake – just left of center

After lunch in the Lodge, I was introduced to my pilot Siegfried for the float plane flight to Nutuvutki Lake, which is located in the SW section of Gates of the Arctic N PRES. We drove a short distance to Bettles Lake, boarded the plane, and were airborne at 1pm. The weather was cold, cloudy, and wet. This photo was taken just after take-off when we were crossing the Koyukuk River.

We flew west past the Alatna Hills. The leaves on the deciduous trees were at their peak with bright golds and yellows set against the green conifers at higher elevation and colorful tundra in the wetlands at lower elevation.

There was water everywhere, ponds, lakes, rivers, and, at times, crashing into the plane.

The Alatna River

Helpmejack Hills

Walker Lake, which is in Gates of the Arctic National Park and Kobuk River

Approaching Nutuvutki Lake

Seig circled the lake three times before landing and coasting to a small beach area on the SW part of the lake. We were surprised to see a float plane parked next to a cabin on the lake.

As I exited the plane, he said “Watch your valuables, they have guns.” A man and his son, who had walked over from the cabin, met us. I discovered that their family had an “inholding” in the National Preserve. Later, Ranger Bob explained that there were many of these parcels and that most were owned by Native Americans or their descendants.

I walked around the area taking pictures. It was pristine, my boots sank into the soft earth and vegetation. Again, the colors were striking, despite the clouds and light rain.

Unfortunately, the weather was deteriorating, and we needed to start back.

Seig chose a more southerly route back to avoid turbulence, first flying over the Kobuk River,

and then southeast along the Alatna River,

before swinging back northeast to land at Bettles Lake

The Trump administration is supporting a road right through the middle of the preserve, so that a foreign mining company can extract copper and zinc!  That road would seriously disrupt one of the last mass migrations on earth – the migration, spring and fall, of around 500,000 caribou to and from the North Slope of the Brooks Range – see my Blog entry for Gates of the Arctic National Park, August, 2012.

At dinner, I sat across from a fellow who was a former EPA employee. He was there teaching a small crew how to correctly bury waste in the tundra. Later, I struck up a conversation with John, who was a Snow Safety & Explosive Specialist from Aspen CO. He manufactured cannon that he used for his Avalanche Mitigation Service (AMS). Afterward, I watched two videos in the Aurora Lodge. One was about Bob Marshall and the Eskimo Village of Anatuvuk. It described the changes of the last century. The second video was about Mardy Murie and her husband Olaus. They came to the Gates of the Arctic for their honeymoon and used dog sleds to explore the area. They lived here 15 years and then moved to what would become Grand Teton NP. They were leaders of the Wilderness Society and instrumental in the passage of the Wilderness Act (1964).

I again looked for the Northern Lights, to no avail, but I did come up with a good story for breakfast.

9/16/20 W – Last day in Alaska, there were five guests and two employees in the eating area of the Historic Lodge for breakfast. I startled everyone by telling them I had seen the Aurora Borealis at 3:30am. I described how the light was moving from left to right across the sky. It would get lighter, then darker. It was a rhythmical pulsating light – extraordinaire. I paused, then said “It was the rotating beacon from the airfield” – I got um!

Went back to the NP Vis Ctr for the third time, then packed for the 10:30am Wright Air flight to Fairbanks. This is a picture of the Dalton Highway that goes from Fairbanks to the North Slope and the oil pipeline that returns –

Arrived in Fairbanks at noon and joined three of the other Lodge guests in the shuttle to their hotel – that way I was closer to the airport terminal. I then walked the 1.5mi to the airport – it felt good to be walking!

My flight to Anchorage left at 5:25pm. My flight to Chicago left Anchorage at 10:14pm and arrived in Chicago at 7:21am. It was packed and they did not distribute food or drinks! The same thing happened on my next flight to Dallas/Fort Worth – yes, they sent me the wrong way to go home! My flight to Dayton was the same, full and no services. No more American Airlines for me!

Helen picked me up and we were home at 5pm. It was another excellent Alaska Adventure!

1/13/2020 – Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area KY and TN, visited the park headquarters, also see Blog October 2009

East Rim Overlook of the Big South Fork of the Cumberland River

Stopped at Carl Sandburg Home National Historic Site in NC to add to my photo collection from October 2010 (see Blog for that month)

Carl Sandburg (1878-1967)

Continued to Sassafras Mountain (3560ft), the highpoint of South Carolina

The new viewing platform is on the border between South Carolina (SC) and North Carolina (NC)

There is now a view from the top

Which did not exist in 1991, there was a fire tower there in 1988 (book pic)

1/15 – NP Unit stops in SC, first Ninety Six National Historic Site, this was one of many Revolutionary War Battleground sites in the Southern Colonies. We also visited in March 2016 (see Blog).

The first Revolutionary War battle in the South took place here on November 19, 1775; 1,900 loyalists attacked 600 patriots. After two days of fighting, they agreed on a truce. However, in June 1781, Nathanael Greene attacked and laid siege to the loyalists/British in the fort. He was not successful. The loyalists left the village in ruins in July and tried to destroy the star fort when they left, ending the existence of the village.

Why is it called Ninety Six? The location was at the intersection of two Indian paths, one from what is now Augusta GA to Camden SC. The other was called the Cherokee Path and it went from Charleston to the Cherokee town of Keowee. Ninety Six was 96 miles southeast of Keowee. After the Revolutionary War battle at Ninety Six,

I was disappointed that the ranger would not allow me to hold an old rifle for this photo.

Congaree National Park was our next stop. It is one of the smallest (by area) National Parks. Gateway Arch (St Louis) is ~91 acres – in my opinion it should be a National Monument or National Memorial NOT a National Park! It is a man-made structure with nothing “natural” about it! Hot Springs NP in Arkansas is the next smallest (#2) at ~5,500 acres. Number three is the National Park of American Samoa at 8,257 acres. Then #4 is Virgin Islands NP at 14,940 acres. Congaree NP is #5 at 26,539 acres.

I am going to start with our 2006 visit here – 10/13/2006 – Congaree NP is one of the most biodiverse in North America and protects the largest contiguous area of old-growth bottomland hardwood forest remaining the U.S. We toured the visitor center, watched a video, and then took the 4.4-mile Weston Loop Trail, at first on a boardwalk and then through the swamp. Notable sites included the bald cypress trees, cypress knobs, and moss-covered trees.

AND, we came across a five-foot long black snake that wouldn’t move off the trail. It looked as though he had recently eaten; we counted 19 bumps along his body! I took a video of the interesting water beetles on Cedar Creek. They would move together in a compact circle or long column and then, for no apparent reason, would start a wave action through the water. The rangers said they had never seen that before.

The next day, we stopped at a supermarket to buy food and then drove to Carolina Heritage Outfitters home base in Canadys SC on the Edisto River at 10am to pick up our canoe. We packed our gear and were then driven to our put-in location off US 21. The Edisto is a clear “black water” River that flows through bottomland swamp on its way to the Atlantic. On average, it was about 40 feet wide with a lot of strainers (fallen trees) near the banks. It was fairly shallow in most places and often had a very inviting sand bottom. However, we did not go in due to the unseasonably cold weather. We stopped in the sun on a sandy bank for lunch and enjoyed the tranquility of our environment.

Helen did a good job paddling (I couldn’t slow that woman down!) and we covered 13 miles with a 40-minute lunch stop in 3 hrs. 45 min.

So, we got to our “Tree House” earlier than expected. We were told it would take 5-6 hours.

The “Tree House” was not built in a tree but rather on stilts among the trees. It had stairs to a platform where there was a picnic table and grill and then more stairs to a one room “cabin” in the trees. Inside there was a little table, pull out couch, and gas grill for cooking. I laid out our sleeping bags in the loft overlooking the river and we then walked around the area. There were three “Tree Houses,” (out of sight of one another) on the river. Only two were in use, ours and one occupied by five female middle school teachers. When we returned, we had chips, salsa and beer outside at the picnic table and then Helen grilled a steak for dinner. As it got dark, I lit the Tiki torches around the platform and got out the oil lamps so we could see our dinner and then play Scrabble. It was cold (40s, we had on all our layers) but fun. The only “downer” was Helen’s mood when she lost at Scrabble!

I was up early the next morning to light the lamps, start the little heater, and prepare breakfast. I used the items left for us in a cooler – starting with the sausage in a seasoned iron frying pan followed by eggs over easy in the sausage grease.

We also had OJ, rolls, jam, plums, and made some hot tea. Helen was invited out of her sleeping bag at the proper time and we enjoyed our breakfast in the trees.

The next morning, we launched the canoe into a river mist among cypress stumps at 8am for the 12-mile paddle to the Carolina Heritage home base. The river became a bit wider, but we still had to be careful as we moved around the many strainers. During our two-day paddle we were treated to the site of wild turkeys, heron, egrets, and many other birds. We were told we missed the alligators because of the cold weather.

Today, 1/15/20, we started at the Harry Hampton Visitor Center

Harry was instrumental in passing legislation to preserve the largest remnant of old growth floodplain forest in the SE U.S.

Helen watched the park video as I did as much of the boardwalk self-guided tour as I could.

The Congaree River was in flood stage. So, I was unable to complete the loop or any other trails

Two more hours took us to Charles Pinckney National Historic Site, it is on the E side of Charleston Harbor not far from Fort Moultrie, which is part of the Fort Sumter NHP.  Pinckney is not a recognizable name to most Americans but he was an important figure in his day (1757-1824).

We returned to this site (were here in March 2011 – see Blog) for additional photos, to watch the video, and to walk the Nature Trail.

Charles Pinckney – Statesman, he is in the famous “Signing of the Constitution” (1787) painting by Louis S. Glanzman.  Pinckney represented South Carolina and was one of the drafters of the document.

The Nature Trail borders a tidal wetland, mosquitoes in January!

It leads to the location of the slave community

We arrived at our friend Karen’s home in Beaufort SC about 5pm

1/16 – Beaufort SC, Reconstruction Era National Monument has now been changed to Reconstruction Era National Historical Park. It has four sites.

We visited all four sites last year – see Blog for February 2019; however, the Vis Ctr was not yet open.

So, this year, we visited again during our stay with Karen in Beaufort

1/17 – Our first stop was Fort Pulaski National Monument outside of Savannah GA

It is named for Polish (Lithuanian) Count Casmir Pulaski who was killed (age 33) during a cavalry charge on the British lines during the Siege of Savannah in 1779. Pulaski was born in 1746 in a Lithuanian Province of Poland. He arrived in America in 1777 and joined the American Revolution fight for the cause of “Liberty and Freedom from British Tyranny.”

Visitor Center

Drawbridge and Entrance

We first visited here with Kate and Chad in 1996 when we did a side-trip during the Atlanta Olympic Games.

The fort was begun in 1829, after the War of 1812, as part of a systems of forts along the East Coast.

It was completed in 1847 but was not armed or garrisoned in 1861 when the Civil War began.

Some armaments – I love cannon pics!

It was immediately occupied by the Confederates (SC Militia)

On April 10, 1862, when the Confederates refused to surrender, the Federals started to bombard the fort with new rifled cannon from Tybee Island.

The fort walls, brick masonry, were not built to withstand this weapon, today and 1996

After 30 hours of bombardment, Col. Charles H. Olmstead surrendered.

After Federal control, the fort was a magnate for escaping slaves

Cockspur Island Lighthouse

Next, 3hrs to Fort Caroline National Memorial; it is a little east of Jacksonville FL. It shares a Visitor Center with Timucuan Ecological Historic Preserve. We visited here in March 2011 – see Blog.

Map from the late 1400’s – note, NO North America!

Commander Jean Ribault explored the area in 1562. He returned in 1564 and built a village and fort called La Caroline (land of Charles) to honor King Charles IX of France. Fort Caroline was constructed on the River of May (now St. Johns River).

River of May

In 1565, Admiral Pedro Menendez attacked Fort Caroline from his base in St Augustine. The Spanish slaughtered the inhabitants only sparing women, children, those that professed to be Catholic, and a few artisans that were needed in St Augustine.

The French exacted their revenge in 1568. They attacked and destroyed the fort, killing all that did not escape, and then sailed back home. However, France would no longer challenge the Spanish in the “New World.”

French Memorial Trail

Fort Caroline today

Timucuan “Friends”

Early drawings of Timucuan Indians

The local Timucuan Indians numbered in the tens of thousands when the Europeans arrived. They were ravaged by disease and by attacks from Spanish and British raids. There were only about 100 left when they emigrated out of the area in 1763.

The Ribault Monument, on the St Johns River, is also within the Timucuan Ecological and Historic Preserve.  Photo from 2011.

It was now time for a hike. I started at the Spanish Pond and hiked the Spanish Pond Trail, the Timucuan Trail, and the Willie Brown Trail – about 3 miles.

This was a one-way hike.  Helen met me at the Theodore Roosevelt Parking Area

The 600-acre Theodore Roosevelt Area of the Preserve was donated to the Nature Conservancy by Willie Brown who grew up, lived, and died on the property. Willie was offered millions by developers but instead donated the land to protect it for future generations! The NPS acquired the property in 1990.

One of my objectives was the Viewing Tower at Round Marsh

This was the site of Willie Brown’s Cabin

We stopped briefly at Castillo de San Marcos National Monument in St. Augustine for a photo. We have visited here several times in the past, most recently March 2011 (see Blog)

Had fish tacos in St Augustine and then drove an hour south to Fort Matanzas National Monument. We took a boat to the fort in March 2011 – see Blog. The fort was built here in 1740 to protect St Augustine.

This is also the area where in 1564 Adm. Pedro Menendez de Aviles slaughtered about 115 Frenchmen who were trying to get back to Fort Caroline after their fleet was shipwrecked on Cape Canaveral during a hurricane.

We stayed at a Fairfield Inn in Palm Coast FL

1/18 – “Holed-Up” entering Canaveral/Merritt Island National Seashore

We were at the Apollo Beach Vis Ctr at 9am when it opened. We were disappointed to learn the rocket launch scheduled for today at the Kennedy Space Center (Cape Canaveral) had been canceled. This was the second time this had happened to us – see Blog March 2011, at the National Seashore.

Toured the Vis Ctr and watched the video

Turtle Mound

Ocean View from top of Turtle Mound 2011

Afterward, dropped Helen off at the parking lot for Beach #3. She walked north along the seashore searching for shells and picking up trash.

Meanwhile, I did the Eldora Hammock Loop starting with a short walk to the Eldora State House.

I then did the 0.5-mile Eldora Hammock Nature Trail

I continued to the end of the road and headed to the water

And walked about a half mile through the surf

Portuguese Man of War – Jelly Fish

Next, hiked the 0.5-mile Castle Windy Nature Trail to Mosquito Lagoon

Mosquito Lagoon

Picked up a tired Helen at the Parking Lot for Beach #2

Mistake, I drove through Miami trying to avoid the Florida State Tollway on our way to Key Largo. My bad, that resulted in a seven-hour drive to Key Largo instead of five! We arrived at our Airbnb condo in the Kawama Village HOA at 7pm.

1/19 Sun – settled into the condo and toured the grounds. They are still repairing units damaged by Hurricane Irma last year.

Fisherman

My dream SUV was parked by the wharf. A Ford EarthRoamer XV-LTS F-550 Off-Road RV, carbon fiber, marine grade, solar, with 41” tires, etc. – about 650K. The 2017 HD F-750 Super Duty, 46” tire model I saw online was 1.5 million!

Each afternoon, Helen swam laps in the 90-degree pool. Today, we went to the Crocodile Lake National Wildlife Refuge after her swim.

Very much enjoyed the “Butterfly Garden.”

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We then did a hike in the Dagny Johnson Key Largo Hammock. Ate dinner at “The Catch” restaurant.  We chose the “Fish of the Day.” You then select among 20 different ways you would like it prepared. Helen chose blackened and I chose grilled. We played games every evening at the condo – Aces to Kings, Skip-Bo, and/or Farkle.

1/20 M – MLK Day, 15min to John Pennekamp Coral Reef SP. We did the 9am 2.5hr Snorkel Trip to Molasses Reef

It is part of the NOAA Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary

Good snorkeling, would have been better if it were sunny

Did some sunbathing on Cannon Beach

Then returned to the condo and rode bikes to Key Largo Fisheries for take-out shrimp and blackened Mahi-Mahi, plus Key Lime Pie!

1/21 Tu – very windy today, low 60s in the morning, cold front coming in. Drove south 1.5hrs on FL State Rt A1A, the “Overseas Highway,” to the National Key Deer Wildlife Refuge on Big Pine Key, only a half hour from Key West.

How do you tell an Alligator from a Crocodile?

After a picnic lunch, we did the short Blue Hole Nature Trail

And then the Watson and Manillo Trails

As can be seen, they did a controlled burn here last year

Did not see any miniature Key Deer. However, there is a photo of some later in this post when I describe our stop in Everglades NP.  The smallest deer in the U.S. are in FL.  The further north you go, the larger they get – e.g. for a very long time the record for largest deer in the U.S. was a deer shot in Ohio.

It was too windy to sunbathe in Bahia Honda SP, so we drove to Boot Key for a walk on Sombrero Beach. It was a nice, no fee, substitute.

We stopped briefly at the Dolphin Research Center

And this tourist trap on our way back to the condo

As we drove North, stopped for a short walk at the new, very nice, Anne’s Beach on the south end of Lower Matecumbe Key. It would be fun to spend the day at one of their eight single table picnic pavilions right above the beach.

Had a rotisserie chicken for dinner in the condo and played games

1/22 W – 41 degrees, wind 35mph, Wind Chill 31 degrees. It was raining Iguanas – literally! They fall from the trees and then are comatose until the temperature rises.

We had planned on using the condo kayaks today – no way. Had a lazy day; Helen did laundry and swam in the heated pool. We visited Captain Slate (SCUBA Adventures) on Islamorada Key. For years the Wittenberg SCUBA class would do its checkout dives with him. Splurged for our last night in the Keys by first enjoying the sunset on the Morada Bay Beach

And then having dinner at Morada Bay Beach Café. Calamari and fish tacos.

1/23 – 2hrs to the Shark Valley entrance to Everglades National Park

Entrance at Shark Valley, we have visited all major parts in the Everglades. Also, see Blog April 2009

Love those birds –

We visited here in 1976 with Stacy and Peter, this pic is on the Boardwalk trail near the Visitor Center

Now you must walk, bike, or take the tram along the route on the right to get to the Observation Tower

In 1976, you could drive the route. A nice hike is to take the tram to the Observation Tower and walk back along the Shark Valley Trail. That is were I took the pic of the miniature Key Deer

Of course, alligators are all over the place

On that same trip, we did a ranger boat tour from the Gulf Coast Visitor Center by Everglades City

And we camped in the Flamingo campground

In 2004, we did the Nine Mile Pond Canoe Trail

It was great fun paddling through the mangrove tunnels and marshes

You look for and follow the white poles, so you don’t get lost!

You never know what you may find –

I sunk about 1.5ft into the muck to take this photo

The Big Cypress National Preserve was only about ten minutes west on the Tamiami Trail (Rt 41). We have visited the Preserve many times as the Tamiami Trail, runs right through it. We have done the Loop Road (gravel) through the Preserve twice (2004 and 2009) – see Blog for April 2009, later in this posting for 2004

What is the difference between a National Park and a National Preserve?

Oasis Visitor Center posting of Birds, Mammals, Snakes/Lizards, Fish, Reptiles/Amphibians, Turtles, Flowers, Butterflies, and Dragon Flies seen here.

Keepers of the Swamp – Alligators

Be careful, alligators can run up to 15mph – can you?

Fish

Birds

We made a brief stop in Ochopee, which has the smallest Post Office in the U.S. Of course, we had to send the kids (grandkids) postcards from here.

Our next stop was the new Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center near the west end of the preserve. The Halfway Creek Canoe Trail starts near there. I would like to paddle it to the Gulf Coast Vis Ctr someday.

Welcome Center

Alligator nest

The cold weather in the Gulf drove the manatees inland – lucky for us!

In 2004, we did the 10-mile Loop Road (gravel) through the Preserve and highly recommend that route. We stopped many times to view wildlife.

My favorite part was the Muck Walk over hammocks and through the swamp. Be sure to wear sturdy shoes covering your ankles or higher because the rough limestone underneath is potted and sharp. Also, watch out for snakes and alligators, tremendous biodiversity.

Helen’s favorited parts were the 1950s gas station and dumpster diving

Had dinner with Bev and Mike in Ft Myers and then stayed in a nice Fairfield Inn near the Tampa airport

1/24 F – Off at 7am, 4hrs to Fort St Marks National Historic Site, approved by Congress (1952) but FL did not donate the land. Therefore, currently, it is not a National Park Unit. It is now San Marcos de Apalache Historic State Park, however, it was known as Fort St. Marks by the English and Americans. Note the Spanish, English, American and Confederate flags.

The Spanish first built wooden buildings and a stockade in the late 17th and early 18th centuries here, which were destroyed by a hurricane. The stone fort was built beginning in 1753. It came under successive control by Great Britain, Spain, the United States and, lastly, the Confederacy during the Civil War. The Confederate Army built a Marine hospital from the materials of the fort. The US took control of the site again in 1865, and the fort site was abandoned. There is a $2 Museum admission.

In 1818, after Gen. Andrew Jackson defeated the British (War of 1812) in the Battle of New Orleans (1815), he took Fort San Marcos from the Spanish.

After two Seminole Wars and FL statehood in 1845, a hurricane destroyed the fort in 1851

The Union lands at St Marks – The Battle of Natural Bridge, March 6, 1865

We did the Historical Trail

We also visited the nearby St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge on the Gulf coast, south of Tallahassee

3.5hrs to Andersonville National Historic Site GA, stopped for a few more pics since it was on our way home. We did an extensive tour here in February 2017 – see Blog

Andersonville was a Confederate Prisoner of War Camp during the Civil War

Atrocious conditions

Deaths in Civil War Prisoner of War Camps – Confederate and Union, 58,000 men died in captivity!

This is also the location of the National Prisoner of War Museum.

The museum tells the story of the suffering of American soldiers over the past two centuries

Stayed in a Fairfield Inn in Warner Robins GA

1/25 Sat – Arrived at Ocmulgee National Historical Park 10min east of Macon GA at 8:45, 15min before the Vis Ctr opened

This site is one of many Mound Group sites around the Midwest

Artifacts found at this site go back over 10,000 years

Getting ready for a hike around the site

Start of hike, Great Temple Mound in distance

17,000 Years of Continuous Human Habitation!

First stop, the Earth Lodge

Iron Horse Desecration of the Mounds (1843 and 1873)

Great Temple Mound

View from top of Great Temple Mound looking NW toward Funeral Mound, Lesser Temple Mound, and the Trading Post Site

Descending the Great Temple Mound, Ocmulgee River below

3.5hrs to Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park. Late summer 1863 the Confederates abandoned Chattanooga TN to the advancing Federals, the Confederates withdrew 26 miles to the SE, the Chickamauga battlefield (GA). The Union forces (~70,000), led by Maj. Gen William S. Rosecrans, followed. On September 19, 1863, the Confederates (~66,000), led by Gen. Braxton Bragg, attacked the Federals at Chickamauga and pushed them back into Chattanooga. They then occupied Missionary Ridge and Lookout Mountain, thereby preventing most Federal supplies from entering the city.

This was the first National Military Park authorized by Congress (1890). It was dedicated in 1895. In 1933, all the National Military Parks, administered by the War Department, were transferred to the National Park Service.

Chickamauga was a Confederate victory (September 1863). Chattanooga, which included the Battle for Lookout Mountain (a diversionary attack) and the attack on Missionary Ridge (November), was a Union victory and opened the Union route into GA.

Electronic depiction of the Battle of Chickamauga

Battery Wagon sponsored by the Chicago Board of Trade

There is an interesting 7-mile driving tour of the Chickamauga battlefield

Chickamauga Confederate Monument

Brotherton cabin, where Confederates broke through Union defenses

Wilder Brigade Monument, “Union Col John T. Wilder’s brigade of mounted infantry, armed with Spencer repeating rifles, halted a portion of the attacking Confederates. The “Lightning Brigade had the only Union success on this part of the field.”

Snodgrass House on Horseshoe Ridge

Defense of Snodgrass Hill

After the Union defeat at Chicamauga, Lincoln sent reinforcements including Maj. Gen Joseph Hooker, Maj. Gen William T. Sherman, and replaced Rosecrans with Maj. Gen. Ulysses S. Grant. The Battle of Lookout Mountain, also called the “Battle Above the Clouds,” took place on November 24, 1863. Maj. Gen Joseph Hooker’s troops, partially protected by heavy fog, took the Confederate fortifications on Lookout Mountain.

Lookout Mountain (2,389 ft) overlooks the Moccasin Bend (~680 ft) of the Tennessee River. Hooker’s attack was a diversionary tactic and the main Union force attacked Missionary Ridge to the east of Chattanooga.

Point Park is located on top of Lookout Mountain.

A little cold today but hey, it’s January!

1996 photo

New York Peace Memorial

Great views west, north, and east from Ochs Memorial Observatory

There was an interesting display on Civil War Signaling there

Moccasin Bend National Archeological District is directly across the Tennessee River

View of Missionary Ridge

Lots of good trails

The Craven House was at the epicenter of Hooker’s attack on Lookout Mountain

View east toward Missionary Ridge from Craven House

Nearby monuments

Today’s schedule was highly structured so we could get to and in each of four Visitor Centers. The fourth was at Russell Cave National Monument in NE Alabama. We left the Craven House on Lookout Mountain at 4pm EST for the one-hour drive to the Russell Cave Vis Ctr, which closes at 4:30. We arrived at 4pm CST!

Toured the Visitor Center

A 0.2-mile boardwalk trail takes you to the cave shelter

Excavations in Russell Cave trace human history from recent activity (e.g. bottle caps, tent pegs at the surface),

To the Mississippian era 500-1000 years ago (e.g. bone needles, shell ornaments just below surface),

To the Woodland era 1,000-3,200 years ago (e.g. pottery, baskets 6 inches down),

To the Archaic era 3,200-11,450 years ago (e.g. bone hairpins, bone awl 4 feet down). About 7,000 years ago, the roof of the cave collapsed and raised the floor above stream level, thereby permitting habitation. Though the cave could only accommodate 15-30 people, it was used for generations by different bands of people. These people lived relatively comfortable lives in the Tennessee River Valley, harvesting food and hunting by season. According to archeologists, they were able to fully use their environment without destroying what sustained them.

The Paleo era was 10,000-14,500 years ago (e.g. animal scraper, stone points 6 to 43 feet down), which is the level of the water table.

Returning from the cave in 1996, there was a paved trail at that time, no boardwalk

1.5hrs to Fairfield Inn in Chattanooga TN

 

1/26/20 Sun – Helen’s B-Day – Left Chattanooga at 7:30am, arrived home at 3:15pm to a surprise Birthday Pizza Party organized by Peter, Heather, Stacy, and Brad.

 

12/10/2019 – James A. Garfield National Historic Site, Mentor OH; our 20^th President served only 6.5 months in office. He was shot at a DC railroad station by a disgruntled office seeker on July 2, 1881. He died at age 49 on September 19^th from infections caused by his doctors! Chester A. Arthur became our 21^st President.

Garfield rose from poverty through hard work. He attended the Western Reserve Eclectic Institute, now Hiram College, where he met his future wife Lucretia. He was a teacher, minister, OH legislator, U.S. congressman, and President. He was the first presidential contender to “campaign” for office. He ran a “front porch” campaign where thousands came to his home, which the press called Lawnfield, to hear him speak.

After the assassination, Lucretia ran the farm and made many improvements. The public supported the family with substantial contributions. She was responsible for the windmill system that can be seen today.

The former Carriage House now serves as the Visitor Center

This was the “Gasholder” building. A natural gas well provided for heating, lighting and cooking.  No wonder “fracking” is so popular in OH!!!

Garfield was the first and still the only sitting U.S. Congressman to be elected President.

“Lawnfield” became a stop on the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Railroad during the 1880 presidential campaign.

On May 15, 2022, we returned for another visit.

Displays from Visitor Center

Campaign Office has been placed behind the mansion

House tour – Garfield’s bedroom was on the first floor –

Parlor/Sitting Room

Presidential China in Dining Room

Safe in a Vault Room next to the Memorial Library on the second floor

Garfield’s second floor study

Young Boys Bedroom

Garfield Estate

August 12, 2021, visit to Garfield’s birth site. Garfield was born in a log cabin in the wilderness frontier of Ohio’s Western Reserve in 1831.  The site and a replica cabin are administered by the Moreland Hills Historical Society (Cleveland suburb).

A short trail leads to the Birth Cabin Site and descriptive markers

Garfield is buried in an impressive mausoleum in Lake View Cemetery in Cleveland, see Blog for September 2017 for more photos

A Garfield statue is located on the west side of the Capitol in Washington DC, photo from 2018

12/11/2019 – We started our First Ladies National Historic Site tour at the Visitor Center, which is in the former City National Bank Building in Canton OH.

The Education and Research Center houses over 3,500 books and other material related to “First Ladies.” This historic site examines the various roles of first ladies as well as the influence they had on their husbands. For example, Director of Social Affairs (e.g. Martha Washington), Presidential Liaison (e.g. Abigail Adams), Policy Advocate (e.g. Lou Hoover), Political Reformer (e.g. Eleanor Roosevelt), Keeper of “the People’s House (e.g. Lucy Hayes), and Helpmate and Confidant (e.g. Bess Truman).

The display items on the first floor were well done but limited. No photographs permitted of loaned items.

I liked the thought-provoking questions asked on this ranger flow chart –

Our next stop was the Saxton McKinley House, which is one block away. First pic 2010, second 2019.

Our ranger guide did a nice job describing the history of the home and family

Ida Saxton was the eldest daughter of a prominent Canton banker – James Saxton. This elegant four-story building was the family home

James Saxton’s portrait is on the left. The home was decorated for the Christmas holidays.

There were many portraits/photos of Ida throughout the house

I need to mention William McKinley, after all he was our 25^th President, serving from 1897 until 1901 when he was assassinated 6 months into his second term of office. He was shot by an anarchist at the Buffalo NY Pan-American Exposition on September 6, 1901. He was taken to the Milburn House, improved, but then quickly deteriorated and died on September 14^th. Teddy Roosevelt (VP) was informed of his death upon returning from a climb of Mt Marcy in the Adirondacks (highpoint of NY). He hurried back to Buffalo and took the oath of office in the Wilcox House that afternoon, becoming the 26^th President of the U.S. The Wilcox House is now the Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural National Historic Site.

This was McKinley’s office when he lived in the Saxton McKinley House.

The McKinley National Memorial (tomb) is located in Canton OH as well, 2001 photo.

The McKinley Birthplace Memorial is in Niles OH where he was born in 1843, 2010 photos.

The focus of the tour was Ida McKinley, which is what you would expect for a “First Ladies NHS.” William and Ida had two daughters. Katherine was born on Christmas Day 1871. Ida was born in 1873 but died the same year. Katherine died in 1875 of typhoid fever, her portrait is above the fireplace.

Mrs. McKinley descended into a deep depression, her health deteriorated, with William caring for her medical and emotional needs for the remainder of his life.

“Although an invalid the rest of her life, she kept busy with her hobby, crocheting slippers, making gifts of literally thousands of pairs to friends, acquaintances and charities, which would auction pairs for large sums.” (Wikipedia)

Trivia – Seven U.S. Presidents have been born in Ohio, more than any other state, Ulysses Grant, Rutherford Hayes, James Garfield, Benjamin Harrison, William McKinley, William Howard Taft, and Warren G. Harding. An eighth, William Henry Harrison, was born in VA but lived most of his life in OH. As mentioned in this posting, both Garfield and McKinley were assassinated. William Harrison and Warren Harding died while in office. Therefore, of the 8 Presidents that died in office, four were from OH.

9/9/2019 – Left Springfield at 2pm EST, arrived at the Visitor Center at 5:30 CST. Unfortunately, they were now on winter hours and closed at 5pm. The Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore was elevated to National Park status in 2019. The Dorothy Buell Memorial Visitor Center now serves as the NP Visitor Center. The NP runs for about 15miles on the south shore of Lake Michigan.

I started by driving to Mt Baldy at the eastern end of the park and hiking the trail to the beach

Note the Nuclear Power Plant on the left, near Michigan City IN

I next visited the 1933 Century of Progress Homes by Dunbar Beach

Armco-Ferro House

The House of Tomorrow – “America’s First Glass House”

The Florida Tropical House

South Shore Line RR Station, you can take the commuter train from Chicago to the Dunes!

Dunes Park RR Station

This is Porter Beach, which is adjacent to the Indiana Dunes State Park (now a part of the National Park). I believe this was the beach I first visited with my family and cousins in the late 1940s!

As you can see the sun was now down. Next stop Chicago.

 

I have visited here at least five times. The following are photos from a 1994 visit

Kate, Damir, Chad, Helen

Tom climbing Mt Tom (192ft) in Indiana Dunes State Park

 

8-10 Sat – Smoky Bear’s Birthday! (75) – I’m older than the bear –

8-11 Sun – drove to Chicago, visited Mike, Cathie and Jim and then continued to Madison WI (500mi). I slept in the Sequoia (SUV) in the parking lot of a Holiday Inn Express

8-12 M – 725mi to Minuteman Missile National Historic Site SD, arrived at 3:30 Mountain Time

There were 3 Missile Squadrons located around Ellsworth Air Force Base in South Dakota

Number of Nuclear Warheads represented by cylinders. Blue U.S., Orange Soviet Union; from after World War II on left to 2010 on the right.  Height of orange plastic on wall represents total.

Specific dates on which the world could have ended!!!

After the Visitor Center, I drove 5mi west on I90 to the Delta-01 control and launch site. I had hoped to take a tour, but they were booked two-months in advance. They only allow 6 people per group (2 ladders to negotiate), as a result tickets are very much in demand.

 

I was ahead of schedule, so I decided to re-visit two NP Units. The first was Badlands National Park, which was only a half-hour away.

My first stop was the Ben Reifel Visitor Center

Some formations look like sandcastles

Models for Dodge pickup truck hood ornaments, male Bighorn Sheep – Rams. Rams are about the same size as football players. Seems a good name for the LA football team; they even crash their heads together!

Mrs. Bighorn Sheep (Ewe)

There is nothing like seeing animals in their natural habitat

Colorful formations

Formed by Volcanoes

1969 visit

2007 visit

 

My second NP Unit re-visit was that evening to Mount Rushmore National Memorial in the Black Hills. After paying for parking ($5 Sr), I walked past the Avenue of Flags to the Grand View Terrace

It was now dark, so I returned to the car to get my headlamp in order to hike the Presidential Trail

I began by taking the Nature Trail to the Borglum View Terrace

Gutzon Borglum was commissioned to carve the memorial in 1925. He died in March 1941. His son Lincoln oversaw carving until it was finished at the end of October that same year.

The Sculptor’s Studio is right below the terrace

Carving the faces

The Presidential Trail (0.6mi) starts at the Sculptor’s Studio

It includes 422 stairs as it ascends to viewpoints right below the faces

It was a clear night, I laid on my back and viewed the night sky. It was the peak night of the Perseids meteor shower. The Perseids are produced by the comet Swift-Tuttle and radiate from the constellation Perseus. I reveled at the sight of numerous “shooting stars.” But what really amazed me where what appeared to be little red round balls that moved very fast with many quick changes of direction across the sky. I had never seen these irregular patterns before and was awestruck by the display.  But, were they meteors or UFOs?

1969 visit – Helen

 

Chief Liz Guz and his flower children

I slept at the Wrinkled Rock Climbing Area in the Black Elk Wilderness of Black Hills National Forest

 

8-13 Tu – Drove through the Black Hills National Forest and Custer State Park to Wind Cave National Park

Prairie Dog Town

Hiked the 1mi Rankin Ridge Loop Trail to the Lookout Tower at 5,013ft

This is an active Lookout Tower

I like this back lit photo of a lone buffalo in the forest

Ranger Nick replacing a worn sign at a turnout. It describes the formation of the Black Hills

The Visitor Center had the expected displays on Wind Cave, caving, bats, native Indians and animals

Caving – There were no tours because the elevator was out of service. Fortunately, I had done the tour in 1969

Wind Cave ceiling boxwork, one of the highlighted cave formations

Posters describing caves that are Units within the National Park System

 

It was only 0.75hr (32mi) to Jewel Cave National Monument, some think that Wind Cave and Jewel Cave systems may be connected

The elevator here was out-of-order as well. I was told a week earlier that it would be operational by the time I got here. Nope, fake-news, it would be “a few more days.” Like Wind Cave, I had already done the standard Scenic Cave tour in 1969. I was here this time to get some usable pictures, which did not happen back then. The good news was that I was there just in time to get the last ticket for the Historic Lantern Tour, which uses the historic entrance to the cave. I had just enough time to do a quick tour of the Visitor Center.

The tour starts 1mi west at the historic cabin built by the CCC in the 1930s

Only lantern light is permitted – no headlamps or cell phones! Also, you had to choose between carrying a lantern OR a camera – I chose my camera. So, I had to walk between two people who had lanterns.

“The Historic Lantern Tour takes place through low, narrow passages by lantern light. You will stoop, duck walk, and navigate narrow wooden stairs (~600 steps) to view the cave from an unpaved, rocky trail. This strenuous ½-mile route lasts about 1 ¾ hours.”

 

A 4.5hr drive took me to north central WY and the Medicine Wheel National Historic Landmark (USFS).  The drive west through the mountains on 14A was scenic but had lots of curves. Checkout the descent going toward Lovell.  Why such a nice roadside map?  Answer, no cell phone service!

I had seen Medicine Wheel NHS in my Rand McNally book of state maps (WY) when I was planning my trip and decided to check it out if I had the time. Oral histories provided by Native Americans indicate that the Medicine Wheel extends back in time through many generations. Artifacts and other archaeological evidence indicate that the Medicine Wheel/Medicine Mountain NHL has been visited by Native Americans for nearly 7,000 years. There was helpful information posted at the kiosk by the trail head.

As indicated on this map, the trail to the Medicine Wheel (9,643ft) is 3mi round-trip

On my spirit quest, I passed two pairs of Native Americans

This photo was taken just below and SW of the Medicine Wheel looking back SE toward the top of Medicine Mountain. As seen near the center of the photo, there is an FAA Radar Dome on top of Medicine Mountain (9,962ft) that monitors air traffic over WY and MT.

Five Springs Basin is on the right

Research suggests that the Medicine Wheel is a composite structure with the central cairn and some outer cairns constructed earlier than the rim and spokes. Native American spiritual practices prescribe traditional uses in distinct portions of the landscape, including areas for staging, approach, ceremonies, prayer and vision questing, camping, and medicinal plant gathering. Native American ethnographic accounts refer to the Medicine Wheel as the “altar” for the Medicine Mountain complex, illustrating the important central role the Wheel plays in ceremonial and spiritual functions.

According to Wikipedia, “The Medicine Wheel, sometimes known as the Sacred Hoop, has been used by generations of various Native American tribes for health and healing. It embodies the Four Directions, as well as Father Sky, Mother Earth, and Spirit Tree—all of which symbolize dimensions of health and the cycles of life.”  The Medicine Wheel is about 80ft in diameter and has 28 spokes. The longest spoke extends beyond the circle and aligns with the direction of sunrise at the start of the summer solstice.

No entrance without permit

Prayer offerings hanging from rope

 

I arrived at the southern end (WY) of Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area at dusk

As I was driving N through the Recreation Area (RA), I happened upon some wild horses as the moon was rising in the east

This part of the RA is within the Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range. I took these pictures the next day –

I continued N into MT and stopped at the Devil Canyon Overlook. I took a video there right after sunset. I slept in the SUV at Barry’s Landing, a boat access to Bighorn Canyon, which is at the end of Rt 37.  Laid down on my Thermo-Rest in the SUV at 10pm with just a sheet covering me (68 degrees), got in a fleece bag at 1am (55 degrees), got in my down sleeping bag at 4am (43 degrees).

 

8-14 W – Good Morning!

Off with their heads!

My first stop was the Caroline Lockhart Ranch

A 0.5mi trail leads to the well-preserved ranch buildings

Note the log construction and the sod roofs

The Davis and Cottonwood Creeks provided the life force for the ranch

Lockhart began ranching at 56 years of age

On my way back south into WY, I again stopped at Devil Canyon Overlook for more videos and still shots

View North

 

View South – reminds me of the Grand Canyon

The Yellowtail Dam in MT creates the Bighorn Lake, which extends 70mi south through Bighorn Canyon into northern WY. The Shoshone River empties into the lower end of the lake. I did the 10am 2.5hr boat tour from Horseshoe Bend Marina in WY north to just past Devil Canyon Overlook in MT. It was worth the $45 cost.  Heading into Bighorn Canyon

Female Mountain Sheep

Devil Canyon Overlook (left center) from the Lake

1,000ft straight up

Smooth ride on the “Lake” through the canyon, no longer the rapids of the Bighorn River

The Amphitheater

The Keyhole, just left of the upper center of photo

Leaving the Bighorn Canyon NRA, OK, those are little horns, NOT bighorns

The Bighorn Canyon NRA Visitor Center is in Lovell

6.5hrs to Butte MT, an SUV cleaning, a Tom clean-up, and a sleep in a Quality Inn

 

8-15 Th – 6:15am start, followed by 2hrs of scenic travel along the Big Hole River, winding through mountains, over hills, and grasslands. This is cattle country, few people other than sporadic trout fisherman trying their luck. Passed through the hamlets of Divide, Wisdom and Wise to Big Hole National Battlefield.

View from the Visitor Center

I hiked all the trails indicated on this map

This is the site of the largest battle fought in the five-month conflict known as the Nez Perce War. I started by doing the 1.6mi (roundtrip) trail to the Indian encampment.

About 750 non-treaty Nez Perce camped here thinking the US Army, which was chasing them, was far behind

They were wrong, troops attacked their encampment at daybreak on August 10, 1877

My pre-visit reading had stated “Hikers should keep an eye out for ground squirrel dens/holes, which can easily be stepped into.” They were right, I was concentrating on taking a photo, stepped back, and down I went! This was the location of Chief Joseph’s Tipi.

There were 89 tipis set up along the North Fork of the Big Hole River

After the initial attack, the Nez Perce counter-attacked and drove the soldiers back across the river.  They dug trenches on the bluff as they were surrounded by the Indians. Meanwhile, three Nez Perce captured the Howitzer canon that was being brought up to support the troops and disabled it.

Siege Site and monument to the Americans killed. Of the 162 military and 34 volunteers, 31 were killed and 38 wounded.

View looking back across the Big Hole River toward the encampment. It is estimated that 60 to 90 men, women, and children were killed in the attack. During the night, the Nez Perce withdrew before Army reinforcements arrived.

The Nez Perce National Historic Trail – there are 38 separate locations in five different states, following the flight of the Nez Perce tribe from the U.S. Cavalry. After the battle at Bear Paw in northern MT, September 30 to October 5, 1877, Chief Joseph surrendered and stated, “From where the sun now stands, I will fight no more forever.” However, Chief White Bird escaped with about 300 Nez Perce into Canada (~40mi).

The following display is in the Upper Missouri River Breaks NM Interpretive Center (BLM) in Fort Benton MT

Visitor Center – The Thief Treaty

This small monument to the Nez Perce killed in the Big Hole battle was originally located on the battlefield. It was regularly vandalized. So, it is now in the Visitor Center.

 

2hrs (85mi) NE to Grant-Kohrs Ranch National Historic Site, working ranch run by the NPS

First stop, the Visitor Center

Johnny Grant and Conrad Kohrs

Old Photos

Howdy Partner!

Brick extension (1890), original white frame ranch house (1862) on right

Did the house tour, unfortunately, no photos allowed. It had an eclectic combination of period ranch items and quality furnishings from around the globe. Both Grant and Kohrs were international travelers. View from back porch –

Bunkhouse Row

Western Trails – this ranch is in Deer Lodge MT

Garden, back of house, and chuck wagon on right

I “loved” the Chuck Wagon, even had a personal talk and cup of Cowboy Coffee with Cookie.  Water boiled in a coffee pot over a fire, coffee thrown in, settled to bottom, and then poured. I had a caffeine high for the next three hours!

 

“Cookie” – the most important member of the cattle drive

Horses

Blacksmith Shop

Variety of Horse Shoes

Variety of Cattle Brands

Tipis would be set up outside of the Trading Post.  The first floor of the 1862 house was the Trading Post, the second floor was the residence.

 

4hrs to the West entrance of Glacier National Park. I had not planned on going into the park but having arrived 5min before the Apgar Visitor Center closed, I couldn’t resist!

Glacier National Park is part of the Waterton – Glacier International Peace Park World Heritage Site.

On both of my previous visits here, I started in Waterton Lakes National Park in Canada. Climbing Mt Crandell (7,802ft) in 1967. Prince of Wales National Historic Hotel (1927) and Middle Waterton Lake can be seen in the background. We also did the boat tour on Upper Waterton Lake into the U.S. and back.

Helen climbing Mt Crandell in 1969, Upper Waterton Lake in background

Tom on the Rocks

Pat, Helen, Tom, Cecile, Mike 1969

Two Babies

Bison Paddock in Waterton Lakes NP

In 1967, after Jay and I crossed the border into the U.S., we hiked into Glacier NP along the Belly River Trail. We laid out our sleeping bags and slept in the woods. The next day we discovered that two young women had been killed in the park the previous night by grizzly bears!

On the previous trips I drove from East to West and hiked several trails. This time, I drove West to East on the Going-to-the Sun-Road. I opened the sunroof and all the windows on the SUV and breathed in the mountain air! This sign was at the SW end of Lake McDonald (3,200ft), 3.4 miles from West Glacier, 28.6mi to Logan Pass (6,646ft) – see bottom of sign.

Lake McDonald (3,153ft)

McDonald Falls

McDonald Creek

Going – Up

Heavens Peak

Looking back at the U-shape of a glacier carved valley

Wilderness?

Mountain Goat

Cecile Martin at Logan Pass 1969

Logan Pass 2019

Eastward descent from Logan Pass

Global Warming – Jackson Glacier

There may be NO glaciers in Glacier NP for our great-great grandchildren

Hiked the Sun Point Nature Trail to Saint Mary Lake

Famous view of Goose Island in Saint Mary Lake from Rising Sun – looking West

Attended a Dark Sky program at the Saint Mary Visitor Center

Slept in the parking lot of the Snowgoose Grille in Saint Mary

 

8-16 F – Took Rt 89 and then Rt 49 south to East Glacier Park Village, and from there, Rt 2 east to Marias Pass (5,216ft). A new National Monument titled Badger-Two Medicine (B2M) has been proposed on Lewis and Clark National Forest land west of the Blackfeet Indian Reservation and SE (across Rt 2) from Glacier NP. This 200 square mile area is called B2M for the two rivers, the Badger River and the Two Medicine River, that begin in snowfields and rivulets along 30mi of the Continental Divide and then flow east through this area. The area is referred to as the Rocky Mountain Front, where the mountains meet the prairies. The B2M area is an important spiritual retreat and sacred to the Blackfeet people.

Montana’s Indians, the Salish, Kootenai, and Blackfeet, frequently crossed the pass to hunt buffalo and raid their neighbors. The pass was “discovered” in 1889 by John F. Stevens an engineer for the Great Northern Railroad. The RR would finish their line over the pass in 1891. The statue of Stevens was dedicated in 1925.

The obelisk is a memorial to Theodore Roosevelt and was dedicated in 1930 after the highway was completed over Marias Pass.

The Lewis Overthrust Fault is in Glacier NP

The Continental Divide Trail crosses Rt 2 at the Marias Pass Historic Interpretive Site

I had difficulty getting information on how I could access the B2M area. My first attempt was a 4WD road extension of the Pike Creek Road Forest Service Access. I had to back up for about 100 yards and turn around when I got to this point.

To be sure I had hiked in the B2M area, I did parts of three different trails. The first was a 1mi out (south) and back on the Continental Divide Trail.  I made sure I had my water, snacks, hiking stick, and was wearing my “bear bell.”

The second hike was on USFS Trail 101, which is off of a road that leads to Rising Wolf Ranch

The third hike was on the Lubec/Buffalo Lakes Trail (USFS #100) off of Rt 2

I hiked for about an hour, until I was above Lubec Ridge and Buffalo Lakes. I took a nice video from that point.

 

A 20min drive from the trailhead took me to Browning MT, which is on the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. It is the location of the Museum of the Plains Indians.

Blackfeet Nation Agency

East of Browning, off Rt2, is a monument to commemorate the northernmost campsite of the Lewis and Clark expedition – Camp Disappointment. Read the sign to discover why it was a disappointment.  The obelisk monument is on the ridge just to the left of the sign.

The site is on private land within the Blackfeet Indian Reservation. That might have something to do with the graffiti.

 

3.5hrs (200mi) to Fort Benton MT and the Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument Interpretive Ctr (BLM)

The monument spans 149 miles of the Upper Missouri River from Fort Benton to the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge

Flags of Indian Nations

Displays on history

Geology and Paleontology

Steamboat Era

The Cow Island Incident

Fort Benton has done a great job of developing its riverfront into an attractive, informative, and welcoming area for locals and visitors. Keelboats preceded steamboats for transport up the Missouri.

The Montana Memorial

I drove a lengthy but interesting route through the National Monument. I covered about 180 miles, with over 100 miles on gravel roads where I did not encounter another car. . My first stop of note was Decision Point.

This reminded me of Helen telling me which way to go –

Nice view of the confluence of the Missouri and Marias Rivers

I then drove a circular route, first Rt87 N and then Coal Banks Landing Road south to Virgelle Ferry. I crossed the Missouri River on the quaint state ferry.

I then drove back to Decision Point on the south side of the river. That gave me a good feel for this part of the monument. The land surrounding the river is rugged “uplands,’ commonly referred to as the Missouri Breaks. In 1976, Congress designated the 149-mile segment of the Missouri River that runs through the monument as a National Wild and Scenic River.

I then drove Rt87 N again, this time to Big Sandy and then took Rt236 S to Judith Landing

Camp Cooke and Claggett Hill Trail

The “Staff of Life,” a strong wind blowing the wheat made it look like waves on the ocean

I arrived at the James Kipp Recreation Area campsite in the Charles M. Rusell National Wildlife Refuge at 10pm. Thus, I joined the Nez Perce, Lewis & Clark, and other sojourners who have passed through this wild and scenic area.

 

8-17 Sat – 5hrs (280mi) to Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site ND

It is in ND just across the MT border

Fort Union was an American Fur Trading Outpost located on the Missouri River just west of its confluence with the Yellowstone River

Description of Lewis & Clark “Stepping Off the Map” at Fort Union

Bastion, front gate, and giant fur press on right

The window to the left of the front gate was a trading wicket

Missouri Breaks can be seen looking west through the front gate

Trade rooms adjacent to front gate

Trading wicket (window) in middle of photo

Bourgeois House (Visitor Center) from one of two stone Bastions. Golf cart was not there in 1833!

Bastions

Trade Goods

Trade Furs

The Missouri River was a 1,800-mile water highway between Fort Union and St Louis

I had the pleasure of meeting the Maitlands here. They stated they were the first family to have completed all National Park Units! They were here with exchange students from Denmark and Germany.

After touring the fort, I hiked to the Bodmer Overlook. The sign states that it is 1-mile roundtrip and takes about one hour. I agree with the one hour, however, I think it is closer to 2-miles roundtrip. Afterwards, I returned to the fort and suggested that the ranger re-examine the length of the trail.

View from the overlook

1833 painting of the fort

The Missouri River can be seen behind Fort Union

A 5min drive took me to Fort Burton State Historic Park. It is located right at the confluence of the Missouri and Yellowstone Rivers. Lewis & Clark camped near here in 1805.

It was the site of Fort Burton, which was a U.S. military post from 1866 to 1895. This was the site of Lakota Chief Sitting Bull’s surrender in 1881.

It was time for another oil change, so I headed to a new Jiffy Lube in Williston ND. Afterwards, I asked for the best place in town for a steak. I was directed to the Williston Brewing Company. I had a 12oz prime rib dinner and an Oil Bust beer to wash it down! This was one of two big dinner “splurges” I had on this trip.

 

1.25hrs (70mi) to Theodore Roosevelt National Park ND, I had visited the South Unit in 1991

On this trip, I explored the North Unit

There are more National Park Units associated with Theodore Roosevelt than any other person

Bentonite, a fine-grained blue-gray clay, defines the badlands’ landscape

Resident Buffalo Herd

Don’t Mess with the Buffalo!

I did the 28-mile Scenic Drive to the end of the road at the Oxbow Overlook of the Little Missouri River

From there, as the sun was setting, I did the 1.2mi trail to Sperati Point

Interesting “brain” stones

View south from Sperati Point

I slept in the Juniper campground

 

8-18 Sun – I was up early, which is a good time to view wildlife

River Bend Overlook – “The View that Launched a Park.” Note the 1937 CCC shelter on the right

I started on the Caprock Coulee Trail; however, it was way too muddy. I was carrying an extra three pounds of mud on each shoe! So, I moved on to the Cannonball Concretions area.

West side of butte

Fascinating formations – called concretions.  NOT carried here, but formed within the sediment layers of the badlands

East side of butte

Did the Little Mo Trail, 1.1mi rt, to get a close-up view of the Little Missouri River

Formation of a “Slump Block”

 

I drove east on Rt200 through new “fracking fields.” This previously sparsely inhabited area is now booming with construction. I was surprised to find new “roundabouts” out in the middle of nowhere! On the other hand, ND has done little to improve their road signs – they are terrible!

 

The 110-mile trip to Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site on the Knife and Missouri Rivers took 2hrs.

The park encompasses the sites of three Indian Villages

There were many Indian Villages along the Missouri River

Many informative displays in the Visitor Center

 

How the Indians used all parts of the buffalo

Re-creation of an earth-lodge at the Awatixa Xi’e Village (lower Hidatsa Site) near the Visitor Center

I then walked to the Awatixa Village (Sakakawea Site) on the Knife River

Lewis & Clark arrived here (confluence of Knife and Missouri Rivers) in October 1804 after a 1,600-mile trip up-river from St Louis. They built Fort Mandan where they spent the winter of 1805. They hired Toussaint Charbonneau and his wife Sakakawea (Sacagewea) to serve as their interpreters for their western exploration. Sakakawea gave birth to her first child, Jean Baptiste at the fort. Clark nicknamed him “Pomp.” Pompeys Pillar National Monument in MT (BLM) is named after him. Lewis & Clark stopped here on there return trip in August 1806. Charbonneau, Sakakawea, and Pomp resumed their lives in the village.

I then drove a short distance north to do the trail to the Big Hidatsa Village Site, the third village site in the park

 

2.5hr drive to Rugby ND and the Geographical Center of North America

A half-hour north is Dunseith ND, where they have this large turtle – made from wheel rims

Fifteen minutes further north is the U.S.-Canadian border and the International Peace Garden, which is an Affiliated National Park Unit. Half of it is in the U.S. and half in Canada. CAUTION, if you plan to visit, be sure you take your passport or your driver’s license and birth certificate to get back in the U.S.! Standing in Manitoba Canada, looking back into the U.S. and the Duty-Free shop where I bought a liter of Jameson Irish Whiskey for Chad.

U.S.-Candian Border

Looking east, back at the entrance ($20 per vehicle). The grand opening marker cairn (July 14, 1932) can be seen in center of photo.

I drove all the roads, making several stops. There is a 3.1-mile loop in the U.S. (left). There is a 1.5-mile loop in the center, the Formal Garden (green) – The U.S.-Canadian border goes right down the center. There is a 3.5-mile loop in Canada (right).

Promise of Peace Sculpture dedicated 2016

A waterway runs from the Peace Chapel on the west end to the entrance on the east end

9/11 Memorial Site containing steel girders from the Twin Towers in NYC, Carillion Bell Tower in background

The 9/11 Memorial was constructed by the government of Manitoba

Floral Clock, 18ft high

 

9.5hrs to Hixton WI, where I slept in the Sequoia at a gas station on I94

 

8-19 M – 3hrs to the Martins in Milwaukee

 

8-20 Tu – 2hrs to Chicago, spent the day with my brother Mike

 

5.5hrs to Springfield, drove 5,400 miles.  Arrived home 3:30am 8/21 W – much to Helen’s surprise!

 

7/24 W – 6hrs to Ronald Reagan Boyhood Home National Historic Site, Dixon IL (Authorized) $8 adult, CST. Statue of Reagan has kernels of corn in his hand – signifying that he was a product of IL. Reagan was our 40^th President and served two terms (1981-1989).

This modest 1891 Queen Anne style house was rented by the Reagan family from 1920 to 1923 (when Reagan was roughly 9 to 12 years old). Though the family moved from the house they remained in Dixon throughout the former president’s formative years; Visitor Center on left.

Born in Tampico, Illinois, on February 6, 1911, Ronald Reagan and his family moved many times during his childhood.  This is the site of his earliest childhood memories, and a place he recalled with great fondness. The gable roofed, two-­story white frame house is a typical late 19th­century small ­town American home.

Our tour guide explained that Reagan hid his pennies under a tile in front of the fireplace

Downtown Dixon IL, monument on the Rock River

The Lincoln Highway – The nation’s first coast-to-coast Highway! U.S. 40 and now Interstate 70 carry Americans from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean.

Towed a U-Haul trailer with cast iron patio furniture, a bed for Lena, etc. to the Martins in Milwaukee WI and spent the night

 

7/25 Th – 5hrs to Baraga Lakeside Inn, in Baraga, MI for the Highpointers Club annual convention

 

7/26 F – Convention activities

 

7/27 Sat – 8am breakfast and then 0.75hr to Keweenaw National Historical Park, Quincy Unit. From 7,000 years ago to the 1900s people mined Keweenaw copper. Native peoples made copper into tools and trade items. Investors and immigrants arrived in the 1800s in a great mineral rush, developing thriving industries and cosmopolitan communities. Though the mines have since closed, their mark is still visible on the land and people.

Quincy Mine from the Quincy Dry House Ruins

Arrived 15 minutes before the Information Desk opened in order to be on the first mine tour, $22 Sr for 2hr tour

Walked around the grounds before the tour. The tall building is the No2. Shaft-Rock House (1908), the stone building in the foreground is the Old No.2 Hoist House that operated from 1882 until 1894

Railroads were extremely important in order to bring in supplies and ship out the ore

The Old No. 2 Hoist House that operated between 1894 and 1920 is on the left and the Old No. 2 Hoist House (Nordberg) that operated from 1920 to 1931 is on the right

The tour started in the Old No. 2 Hoist House (1894) Museum

Had some time to go through a few displays in the museum before the tour

Ready to start the tour

Cog Rail Tram (built for tours in 1996) descending to early mine opening. Our guide was excellent – knowledgeable and articulate

Entering mine

Copper ore

Sledgehammers and handheld chisels gave way to two-man drills, and then one-man drills that used air compressors. Each time technology advanced, fewer miners were needed. Strikes were called because of job cuts and low wages.

We returned to the Nordberg Hoist House to get an explanation of its operation. See the gigantic spool on the right.  It connected by steel cables to Shaft-Rock House elevators

When the mine opened in 1840, miners used hand tools and primitive dynamite

This was Manual Labor

Products

Nice schematic of Shaft-Rock House on left and the Nordberg Mine Hoist on the right

Shaft-Rock House – Ore cars on left, man-cars on right

Men were moved up and down by man-cars, while water was pumped out of the mine, and ore was brought up to start processing

Final shaft length was 9,260ft. Final shaft depth was 6,225ft, over a mile underground!

From the mine, I drove 15min NE to Calumet MI, this is the entrance to downtown off Rt41. The Park Headquarters is across the street.

That is almost 5 tons of copper! The building in the background is the Keweenaw History Center

The former St Anne’s (Roman Catholic-French Canadian) church is now the Keweenaw Heritage Center. The Keweenaw NHP Visitor Center is located in the Union Building on the right, a former lodge hall for various fraternal organizations.

It contains many interesting exhibits

Copper Timeline (see the bottom of the photos) up to 1917; copper production on the peninsula ceased in 1968 with the closing of the Calumet & Hecla Mining Company

MI copper in the Statue of Liberty

This exhibit describes the Miners’ strike of 1913-1914

Woody Guthrie wrote a song titled the “1913 Massacre” about a fire that killed over 70, mostly children, that was suspected to have been set by company hires during the strike.

Together with nearby Isle Royale, Keweenaw is the site of the world’s largest deposit of nearly pure copper. At this time, it is not cost effective to mine. Chili is currently the #1 producer of copper, followed by Peru, China, and the U.S.

 

I continued NE on the Copper Country Trail National Scenic Byway (Rt 41) to Copper Harbor near the end of the Peninsula

Copper Harbor Lighthouse (1848)

The building and wreck of the John Jacob Astor

Fort Wilkins – 1846-1870

Start (End!) of the Road – US 41

Returned to the motel, cleaned-up, and attended the 33rd Highpointers Club Konvention banquet in L’Anse.  There was a presentation by three of the 5 or 6 men who attended the 1^st Highpointers Club meeting here in 1986.  I became a member in 1987.

 

7/28 Sun – 4hrs to Father Marquette National Memorial in Straits SP, St Ignace MI, immediately N of the Mackinac Bridge

This is an Affiliated NP Unit – inside of Memorial

Lots of information here, on the wall, and in the floor!  The travels of Father Marquette and Louis Jolliet

I especially liked Father Marquette’s account of his exploration of the Mississippi River with Jolliet – on the wall

I hiked the loop trail

Nice views of the Mackinac Bridge – the Straits of Mackinac connect Lake Michigan and Lake Huron

 

I have always been interested in canals and locks that provide connections between bodies of water. In that vein, I have wanted to see the Soo Locks that are on the U.S.-Canadian border and that allow ship traffic between Lake Superior and Lake Huron and onward to the Atlantic Ocean. I had been in St Ignace twice but did not do the 45min drive to the end of Interstate 75 and the Canadian border. Well, this time I did.

The US Army Corp of Engineers has an award-winning Visitor Center and viewing platforms at the locks. They are left center in this photo. St Marys Falls can be seen on the right side and Sault Ste. Marie Canada is on the far right.

Ship traffic from Duluth MN to the Atlantic Ocean and vice-versa

Informative cross-section showing depth of the water course

1845, before the first lock was constructed, they had to move the ships around St Mary Falls by hand

The “old” locks

Ding-Ding, or is it Ding Dong?

Dates of improvements/expansions

I watched the passage of two ships “downbound” – toward the Atlantic Ocean

The Alpena, note how the lock operation lowers the ship

Road construction on I75 slowed my drive (7.5hrs) to the Armstrong Air and Space Museum in Wapakoneta OH. It is a privately-owned unit in the Dayton Aviation Heritage Area.

July 20, 2019 was the 50^th Anniversary of the first moon landing. Neil Armstrong, of Wapakoneta OH, was the first human to set foot on the moon. He stated, “That’s one small step for man, one giant leap for mankind.”

Edwin “Buzz” Aldrin of the Apollo 11 mission also walked on the moon. Together, Armstrong and Aldrin spent a little over 2.5hrs on the moon, while Michael Collins piloted the moon orbiter.

Arrived home at 11pm, this was a 1,200-mile road trip around Lake Michigan

 

I am going to publish this entry as August 2019, so my blog entries are sequential. However, I am submitting it today (9/22/19) as President Trump is visiting the new Pratt Industries plant in Wapakoneta. Anthony Pratt, the richest man in Australia, a Trump supporter, is welcoming the President.