Posts Tagged ‘hiking’

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NP and BLM Sites – OR to OH

October 19, 2025

9/29 M – 5.5hrs (300mi) from Kate to Oregon Caves National Monument and PRES.

Helen and I visited on 6/24/2007 and stayed in the Chateau near the Visitor Center. Partial view of the black PT Cruiser we rented.

Description: We arrived at Oregon Caves at 5pm wanting to take the candlelight tour that we thought was at 6pm.  We found that they now only do that tour on Friday and Saturday evenings – so we went on the 90-minute guided tour at 5:30. The cave is still very active (42o) with many glistening formations.  Unlike many caves we have visited, here you could often reach out and touch the impressive formations (which of course you are not supposed to do).  At times the passage was so tight it was hard to avoid bumping into the walls.  We spent the night in the 1934 Chateau (Lodge) at the caves.  The stone retaining walls, parapet walls, trout pools and waterfalls were constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930’s.  We selected the Florentine Trout for dinner and then played cards with a couple from Oklahoma who were touring on their motorcycle.

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On this trip I wanted to get a photo of the Oregon Caves National Monument and Preserve sign

As well as spend some time in the Visitor Center. Eijah Davidson found the caves in 1874 – he stumbled on an opening while chasing after his dog Bruno.

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This display shows a three-dimensional view of the cave passages.

Two-dimensional representation

It was a cold and rainy day –

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1.5hrs to Redwood National and State Parks in CA. They are managed cooperatively by the NPS and the CA Department of Parks and Recreation.

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Emelia Earhart Memorial Grove 2025

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We have visited Redwood NP three times. In this Blog description, I will review our visits from North to South. In 2007, we drove the Howland Hill Rd through Jedediah Smith Redwoods SP.

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We stopped (2025) at the Park Headquarters in Crescent City CA to collect information. We visited the Battery Point Lighthouse (1856), which is nearby, in 2007. We were able to walk across an inlet to the lighthouse because it was low tide.

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In 1969, when driving from Seattle to San Francisco for a wedding, we stopped at a couple of commercial areas along Rt-101 – “World Famous Tree House.”

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Chandelier Tree, if you look closely, we had skis on the back of the VW Bug. Well, I was so excited to drive through the tree that I forgot about that – the skis were ripped off the back of the car! Fortunately, they were not damaged.

Two photos along Rt-101 – the Redwood Highway. In 2007, we stopped at a Yurok Indian smoke house and bought some smoked salmon for lunch (here they use redwood in the smoking process).  

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Coastal View from Rt-101

Lions, the state animal of CA, on the old Douglas Memorial Bridge near Klamath (2007). Bridge destroyed by flood in 1964.

In a 1903 speech, Teddy Roosevelt urged protection of the giant trees. John Muir is fourth from right.

Sequoia and Redwood Compared

We did the Lady Bird Johnson Grove 1-mile Loop Trail in both 1969 and 2007.

This year (2025), we did a nice hike on the beach at the Kuchel Visitor Center near Redwood Creek.

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Condor wingspan – I am still looking for one in the wild!

Cannot leave a beach without a souvenir!

Trinidad State Beach

We made an unplanned stop in Humbolt Redwoods SP the next day – see below.

Stayed in a Best Western in Eureka CA

9/30 Tu – CA Headwaters Forest Reserve (FR), This BLM Redwoods site is only 19-miles S of Eureka

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The BLM has classified this site as an Outstanding Natural Area (ONA).

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We did a very enjoyable 2+ mile morning walk on the paved part of the Elk River Trail

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Side hike to the site of the Webb’s house, now gone

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Caretakers of the history of the forest

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The Headwaters Education Center tells the story of the forest –

It was a locomotive barn in the town of Falk.

The logging and lumber mill town of Falk is on the National Register of Historic Places.

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Returning to the trailhead –

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It took 2-hours to drive S on Rt-101 and then W on secondary roads to Cape Mendocino – the furthest western point of the Continental USA – see top left of map.

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Proceeded S to Petrolia

Then W to the Punta Gorda Region in King Range NCA

“The King Range National Conservation Area (NCA) is a spectacular meeting of land and sea as mountains thrust straight out of the surf with King Peak (4,088 feet) only three miles from the ocean. The King Range NCA encompasses 68,000 acres along 35 miles of California’s north coast. The landscape was too rugged for highway building, giving the remote region the title of California’s Lost Coast. It is the Nation’s first NCA, designated in 1970.”  View of Mattole River and Estuary.

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We continued on a gravel road to Mattole Beach in the King Range NCA.

Campground and Trailhead –

Raining and Cold!

Backtracked toward Petrolia, then drove S to Honeydew and E to Humbolt Redwoods SP.

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We had not intended on stopping here but could not resist doing a loop trail in the Rockefeller Redwood Forest.

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This is an “Old Growth Forest”

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This hike made for a more difficult late-night drive to Lassen NP, but it was worth it –

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Check out the colors –

We now had a 250-mile drive to Lassen Volcanic NP. We arrived at the north entrance at about 11pm and went searching for our cabin at Manzanita Lake. After driving the loop twice in a light rain, I decided to walk the loop using the light from my phone. Finally, I found #8, a bare bones cabin with no water, but it did have two thin mattresses where we could lay our sleeping bags.

10/1 W – Jay and I visited Lassen Volcanic NP in 1967. Lassen Peak (10,457ft) is part of the Pacific Ring of Fire surrounding the Pacific Ocean. It last erupted 1914-1916.

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Our first hike was 2.6-miles rt to the Bumpass Hell thermal area.

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Photo of Lassen Peak from Lake Helen – Then we did the 2.5-mile trail to the top of the Lassen Peak (2K gain) and then had a race running down the scree on the slopes of the dormant volcano. That is no longer allowed, now you must take the trail down. Lassen Peak from Lake Helen –

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Today, 10/1/25, was a cold, rainy, windy day and it limited our activities. Photo of our cabin –

NW Park entrance sign –

Loomis Museum

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Driving Rt-89, the park road, through the park at the speed limit would take 1.5 hours. Of course, you SHOULD stop, enjoy the scenery, read descriptive signs/markers, take a walk, hike to a geologic feature, etc. This photo was taken near the highpoint (8,753ft) of the park road.

Park Signs/Markers were very informative – 

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Photos taken at Lake Helen, the trailhead for the Bumpass Hell thermal area –

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Boiling Mud Pot –

Lassen Volcanic NP – “Hot Spots”

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The Kohm Yah-Mah-Nee Visitor Center was closed, because of the government shut down, but a maintenance man was kind enough to bring out the park stamp so we could use it on our brochure. The above were my last two photos before leaving the park for Reno NV. We then took I-80 east to Elko NV where we had a reservation at the Esquire Inn.

10/2 Th – Lost one hour going from Pacific Coast time CA to Mountain time. Arrived at Golden Spike NHS in UT at 2pm.

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I was here in 1991 and saw a re-enactment of the meeting of the steam engines “Jupiter” (Central Pacific RR) and #119 (Union Pacific RR) at Promontory Summit marking the completion of a U.S. transcontinental railroad (1869).

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Today, because of the government shutdown, the Visitor Center was not open and there was no re-enactment of the symbolic tapping of a golden spike to commemorate the completion of the continent-spanning (1,776-miles) railroad line. 

Our first stop in the NHS was at the Big Fill. Using picks and shovels, carts, and one-horse scrapers the laborers filled huge ravines.

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Using picks and shovels, carts, and one-horse scrapers, the laborers filled huge ravines.

Visitor Center

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The Southern Pacific RR, formerly the Central Pacific RR, Monument was constructed in 1916. It was moved, repaired, and restored in 2001.

Workers Monument – to Chinese, Irish, German and Italian immigrant laborers.

Original Rail

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Evolution of the Rail

“The last tie laid on completion of the Pacific Railroad May 1869.”

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UT State Quarter 2007

2007 50 State Quarters Coin Utahuncirculated Reverse

After a 135-mile drive, we arrived at Fossil Butte NM in southwest WY about 4pm.

On 9/30/2007, “almost exactly” eighteen years ago, I did the 2.5-mile Historic Quarry Trail.

2025 view of Fossil Butte from the West –

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View from the Visitor Center

The signs along the entrance walk cover millions of years and highlight the Cenozoic Era (last 65 million years) – The Age of Mammals.

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Landscape and Quarries

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Starting on the Scenic Drive

Helen and I did the 1.5-mile Fossil Lake Loop Trail

Markers along the trail highlight plants and animals –  

The trail winds through a high desert landscape

Reached the highpoint of the trail as the sun was starting to set in the west –

Descended through a golden aspen grove, that is sustained by hillside springs.

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Sage Country Oasis – Aspen trees reproduce through root sprouts. So, each new tree is a clone of the parent, therefore, they are a single organism.

2.5hrs to West Valley City UT, a suburb of Salt Lake City, where we came upon the Kabul Kitchen. It is an Afghani store/restaurant. It was ready to close, but we explained how we had traveled through Afghanistan and experienced the 1978 Now Ruz Celebration (New Year – first day of Spring) in Kabul. The country’s biggest celebration of the year! The following is a major diversion from this post.

Story – We joined several thousand people at the Fairgrounds outside of Kabul on March 21st. There were carnival rides and circus performances. Two men (no electricity) powered the Ferris Wheel. It was about 40ft tall with one of the seats occupied by two other men – one beat a drum and the other played a flute. They provided the music to accompany the ride! There were various contests including wrestling and weight-lifting, as well as races – human, horse, dog, and camel. In addition, you could bet on various cock, dog, and camel fights. The reason I mention this is because I happened to speak with an Afghan Army officer. I told him we would be driving through the Salang Tunnel to Kunduz. He stated that the Soviets built the Salang Tunnel, through the Himalayan Mountains north of Kabul, so their forces could someday easily invade the country.

A little Afghan History – in 1973, Army General and prince Mohammad Daoud Khan orchestrated a coup to overthrow his cousin King Mohammad Zahir Shah. He established the Republic of Afghanistan. He held power until April 1978, one month after our visit, when pro-Communist rebels stormed the palace in Kabul and killed him and his family. One year later, on Christmas Day 1979, the Soviet invasion began. The main route of the invasion was through the Salang Tunnel.

A little Iranian History – the Iranian Revolution began in 1978. Helen, Stacy, and Peter were evacuated from Iran, with embassy employees, on December 9, 1978. On January 16, 1979, the Shah left Iran with his family for exile in Egypt. I was able to escape from Iran on a Finnish flight evacuating their embassy on January 18, 1979. That is a long story! The Iranian Revolution ended on February 1, 1979, when Imam Khomeini arrived in Tehran from Paris.

Now back to 2025, the Kabul Kitchen stayed open to prepare Lamb Shank Kabuli take-out dinners for us! We also purchased Sohan, which is a Persian candy, to sooth our sweet tooth. Took our treats to the Holiday Inn Express for consumption.

10/3 F – Breakfast at the hotel, followed by a 45-min drive into the Wasatch Mountains to Timpanogos Cave NM

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Our first visit was in 1968 when we hiked the steep 1.5-mile trail ascending 1,092ft to the cave entrance at 6,730ft for the ranger tour.

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I had “slow film” in my camera resulting in blurry photos. Photo of Hidden Lake –

Photo of the Great Heart of Timpanogos –

Unfortunately, the Visitor Center and Cave were closed today because of a Government Shutdown. FYI – the tour is 3.5-hours with a cost of $12 for an adult ticket.  

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Aspen – starting our drive to Dinosaur NM in UT –

My mother, brothers, and I visited Dinosaur NM on 8/19/1966. We visited the Quarry Visitor Center and tent camped on the Green River at the Split Mountain campground.

In 1992, Helen, Kate, Chad, Manuel (student from the Canary Islands), and I did a rafting trip on the Green River north of the National Monument. JWP stands for John Wesley Powell National Conservation Area (NCA), which we visited on this trip.

Another family with two kids joined us, so we had two rafts.

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Beach stop for lunch –

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Brief Storm “Vega” Approaching –

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Stop at Hot Springs –

After we got through the storm and finished several rapids, we split and put the four kids in the small raft so they could paddle and float the river with their new friends.

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Chad “Loved” Dinosaurs, so we stopped at the Utah Field House of Natural History State Park Museum in Vernal UT.

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Next stop the Quarry Visitor Center in Dinosaur NM. Followed by the Fossil Discovery Trail to the Dinosaur Quarry Exhibit Hall, where they continue to excavate fossils.

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That was followed by a 12-mile drive on Cub Creek Road.  We stopped several times and did a short hike to the Petroglyphs near the end of the road.

On this visit (2025), we took US-40 East to Jensen UT, where they have a “formerly rideable” Brontosaurus Dinosaur. People would sit on the neck to have their photo taken. Now, there is a fence to discourage that –

Next – RT-149 N, to a fork and a newly constructed sign for Dinosaur NM.

We returned to the fork, made a right turn onto Brush Creek Road, to Diamond Mountain Road, to Island Park Road, to access the NM’s sites north of the Green River – see Map, some roads were not marked.

This marker describes the “Bone Wars”

“Wash Board” road, made for a bumpy ride –

Tilted Rocks

Approaching the McKee Springs Petroglyphs

0.3-mile loop trail

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These are some of the finest large human-like Freemont designs in this area.

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Finishing the loop trail

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Rainbow Park Viewpoint –

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Cottonwood and perhaps Boxelder trees on Green River

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Ruple Ranch

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The Sequoia DID NOT get through this brush unscathed – my bad!

Near Big Island Campsite

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One of my objectives for this trip was to complete my goal of visiting all 19 BLM National Conservation Areas (NCAs). John Wesley Powell NCA was number 19.

I have indicated my access point on the above map. It was difficult to determine how I could access the NCA.

Opening the gate between Dinosaur NM and the John Wesley Powell NCA –

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On March 12, 2019, Public Law 116-9, the John D. Dingell, Jr. Conservation, Management, and Recreation Act was enacted. The Act will conserve, protect and enhance significant historic, cultural, natural, scientific, scenic, recreational, archaeological, educational, and wildlife resources on 29,868 acres of the John Wesley Powell National Conservation Area. 

Looking toward the Diamond Mountain Plateau –

Leaving the NCA –

It was late by the time we started east on US-40. We drove to the east side of Denver and stopped in a Sleep Inn motel about midnight.

10/4 Sa – 730-miles to Columbia MO, Quality Inn (I-70)

10/5 Su – 500-miles to Springfield OH (I-70)

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BLM and NP Sites OH to OR

September 30, 2025

9/15/2025 M – Start of 7,388-mile trip to Portland OR and West Coast. Drove 500 miles to Kingdom City MO, parked behind a motel to sleep.

9/16 Tu – Drove 12 hours (750mi) to Dearfield Black Community, a proposed NHS, east of Greely CO. Photos around 7pm, with a storm on the way.

Dearfield was an African-American Agricultural Colony started by Oliver Toussaint Jackson in 1909. By 1920, Dearfield had over 200 residents. There are three remaining buildings: a gas station diner and what is left of Jackson’s home. After the “Dust Bowl” (1940), only 12 people remained.

NPS and CO state grants are being used to stabilize the site.

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Monument was donated by the Anadarko Petroleum Corp and the Greely Monument Works in 2010.

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The storm hit around 9pm, just as I was starting my drive into the Rocky Mountains on I-70. It was now dark. The rain and wind became more intense; then it started to sleet and then snow as the temperature dropped to 34 degrees. The road was under major construction with many barrels and changes of lanes. Some semitrailer trucks were moving slowly up the mountain essentially blocking the right lane, while others were going the speed limit and throwing up spray that I could not see through. The conditions were horrible, totally unsafe, when I pulled off into the Grizzly Creek Rest Area for the night. This drive ranks in the top ten of the most difficult/dangerous drives I have done!  

9/17 W – started driving early and was at the BLM Grand Junction Field Office at 8am when it opened. I was able to get better maps and travel guides for the two National Conservation Areas (NCAs) I visited on this day. The first was the Dominguez-Escalante NCA only 25 miles south of Grand Junction CO.

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I started my hike into the Dominguez Canyon Wilderness (and NCA) at Bridgeport on the Gunnison River.

The first part of the trail followed the east side of railroad tracks to two bridges crossing the river.

The first (old) bridge was closed. So, I crossed the Gunnison River on the second (new) one.

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Looking back at the old bridge –

I passed an old mine – note the sluice trough.

And then came to the gate into the Dominguez Canyon Wilderness.

I hiked around Triangle Mesa toward Big Dominguez Creek.

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However, after hiking about 3-miles, I had not got to the creek. So, I decided to return to Bridgeport.

Union Pacific railroad train moving through canyon; the North Branch of the Old Spanish Trail passes through the eastern part of the NCA.

It took about an hour to drive SE to Delta CO and then on to Austin where I then drove S on Peach Valley Rd into Gunnison Gorge NCA and Wilderness.

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Ute Rd is a 4WD Track that ends at a lookout in the Gunnison Gorge Wilderness

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Descending back into the Gunnison Gorge NCA

Sidewinder Trail through the NCA

Back at Peach Valley Rd

OHV Play Area

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I stopped at a Toyota dealer in Delta CO because the Sequoia had an unusual sound that had been increasing since I left OH. Manager test drove it and said I probably needed one or two new front wheel bearings, but he was booked for a week. He gave me the names of three repair shops in Grand Junction where I was staying that night. I immediately called the first on the list and was told to bring my SUV in at 8am the next morning. I stayed the night in a Super 8 motel.

9/18 Th – I had the Sequoia at Shrums Auto Repair at 8am. The head mechanic and manager both test drove the SUV and stated that the sound was likely one or both front wheel bearings. I said to go ahead with the repair and walked downtown to tour and have lunch. I really liked Grand Junction and thought that I might like living there.

When I returned to the repair shop, the front wheel bearings had been replaced, but the mechanic and manager said the noise was still there! They proceeded to look at other possibilities and even put a sound system under the vehicle at each wheel to record sounds while driving to try to find the problem – no luck! They were dumbfounded and said that the only thing they could come up with was a gear box problem, which they could not look into for two days!  We agreed that I should take the vehicle and drive it until the sound was worse and then have it evaluated again. That put me at risk for getting stuck somewhere, perhaps with no cell phone service, but I felt I had to do it to maintain my schedule.

So, I got on I70 at 4pm and started driving West. It took me 5.5 hours to get to Leeds UT, where I slept in the SUV.

9/19 F – Up early and drove into the Red Cliffs NCA at daybreak. It is a large area (45,000 acres) in SW Utah, just N of St George.

I-15 and the Red Cliffs

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The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints “called” Orson and Susann Adams and 41 others to move to this area in 1862. There family lived in this house from 1864 to 1892.

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My first hike was 0.5 miles on the Anasazi Trail to an Archeological Site that was the home to Puebloan farmers. I am lower right in photo.

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I then took the Mano and Red Reef East Trails about a half mile to a Dinosaur Track Area

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That was followed by a short hike on the Red Reef Trail that follows Quail Creek.

McMullin House in Red Cliffs Recreation Area – Williard C. McMullin, a stone mason from Maine, built several stone houses in the area, including the Adams House.

After leaving the NCA, I drove to the Bureau of Land Management (including BLM) adjacent to the St George airport to collect information on both the Red Cliffs and the Beaver Dam Wash NCAs. I needed the latter to decide on my route to and through Beaver Dam Wash NCA, which is located about 12 miles west of St George.

Old Highway 91, which passes through Beaver Dam Wash NCA, was the route of the Old Spanish Trail, a National Historic Trail (NHT).

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Entering Beaver Dam Wash NCA. Congress designated these 63,645 acres in the SW corner of UT a NCA in 2009 – storm ahead

Watch out for Desert Tortoises

Early Explorers

Joshua Tree National Natural Landmark is within the NCA

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I drove toward the Woodbury Road Climbing Area

And then exited the NCA through the Woodbury Study Area into AZ

Drove 325-miles through Las Vegas and Death Valley NP to Lone Pine CA and the Alabama Hills National Scenic Area (BLM). I stopped at the painted “Monkey Head” on Whitney Portal Road just west of Lone Pine. The first pic is from 1992 with Manuel, our exchange student from the Canary Islands (Spain), on the monkey’s head and Chad leaning on his nose. The second photo is what it looks like today.

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This was my fifth time in this area. The first four were related to climbing Mt Whitney (14,505ft), the highpoint of CA and the highpoint of the 48 contiguous states.

The sun had just set over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, but I was still able to drive Movie Road and had enough light to briefly explore Lone Ranger Canyon. There have been over 400 movies filmed here, primarily “Cowboy Flics.”

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I had to be careful not to trip on the 0.6-mile Arch Loop Trail to Mobius Arch – it was dark by the time I got back to the SUV. I used the light on my cell phone to finish the trail. The photos are deceptive because the camera adjusted for the lack of light.

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It was then a one-hour drive to Bishop CA and the Liars Club Social at the Whiskey Creek Restaurant. Afterward, I signed into the Best Western Lodge for the Highpointers Club Konvention.

9/21 Sun – I was up early to drive to the Mammoth Mountain Ski Lodge to catch the 9am Shuttle Bus into Devils Postpile NM. The road into the monument was closed due to construction but buses were running on the weekends.

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I was here in 1967 with my friend Jay, but I did not have any written or photo evidence that I had been here – hence the reason for my visit today.

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My first hike was about 1.5-miles from the Ranger Station to the intersection of the John Muir and Pacific Crest Trails and back – a Two for One!

Middle Fork of the San Joaquin River

I then hiked the Devils Postpile loop Trail, about one mile. It goes up over the top and then back to the Ranger Station. As basalt lava erupts and cools, it shrinks and then cracks. Sometimes it will form vertical columns with three to seven sides.

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The 60-foot wall was exposed during the last glaciation.

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After exiting the bus at the Lodge, it took me 45 minutes, with a descent of 2,600ft, to get to the Mono Basin National Forest Scenic Area Visitor Center (USFS), just east of Yosemite NP.

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Toured the Visitor Center and had a nice conversation with the ranger. He said that he normally worked as one of the Climbing Rangers in Yosemite NP.

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There is a good view of Mono Lake and Black Point from the Visitor Center.

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I then drove a short distance to Navy Beach and the South Tufa Area.

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Tufas are produced as underground springs mix with the carbonate in the lake water to produce calcium carbonate.

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Chad (15) and I visited here during our 1998 “bonding” trip. Mono Lake has receded significantly in the last 27 years!

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I next drove two hours north to Carson City NV and had dinner in a small strip mall at the Hot Potato Pie fast food restaurant. I was told that this was the first in the country and they were about to open a second in Carson City. You order a giant potato and can choose from a multitude of toppings. Like ordering a pizza but with a much greater variety of toppings. I predict this is going to become a national chain!

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I slept in the Sequoia behind a motel.

9/22 M – My first stop was the Carson City District Office of the BLM. I spoke with at least three employees asking about two new BLM National Conservation Areas (NCAs) outside of Carson City. I collected information and purchased a BLM map for Walker Lake (2006), which shows the location of Black Mountain. A BLM employee drew the location of the Pistone-Black Mountain NCA on this map. I was also given written directions to find the 4WD route to Black Mountain (3,941ft).

I drove past the Walker Lake Recreation Area and an old homestead along the East Walker River.

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I continued for another half hour until I realized I was going south – the wrong direction! I turned around and headed back. When I got back to the Recreation Area, I stopped a state pickup truck going the other way to ask directions. That is how I met Ryan, the only person I saw for the four hours it took me to get to Black Mountain and then back to a NV state highway. He put an app on my phone that allowed me to track my location. I was now on my way to Black Mountain.

I passed a fenced area that looked like it contained a solar powered weather station.

The track started to gain elevation along a power/telephone? line.

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I got to a point where the Sequoia 4WD would not take me further up the mountain. So, I hiked over the hump you see in this photo.

On the other side I found a fenced structure that looked like it may have been a covering for a mine entrance, in middle of first photo.

This is a magnification of the above photo –

Looking at my phone, it appeared I was in the Pistone-Black Mountain NCA. So, I slowly backed down the track until I found a spot to turn around. I then proceeded down the steepest sections in my lowest gear.

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Heading back to civilization –

I took these photos of migrant workers outside of Yearington NV. They were starting to harvest a field of red onions. Another group was working back toward them from the opposite side of the field.

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My next task was to get to the Numanaa Nobe NCA before dark. There is one part of the NCA that has easy access off of Rt-50 east of Fallon NV – the Grimes Point Archeological Area. The majority acreage of the NCA is NE of this location.

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There are about 150 Basalt boulders with more than 1,000 petroglyphs in the area.

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“Some petroglyphs show animals and humans, others form unique designs with lines. Visitors can also find petroglyphs in the “pit and grove” style, featuring groups of circular pits and long, narrow grooves. This technique is the oldest known style of rock art.”

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I did the 0.5-mile Petroglyph Trail.

Some of the petroglyphs here may be related to the ritual practices of the tribe’s shaman.

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It was dark by the time I made it back to the SUV.

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I drove to Fallon and checked into a Motel 6 and then went out to fill the gas tank and get dinner. I got out my phone and put the location of a Maverick gas station on Google Maps and pulled out onto Rt-95 headed north. I looked at my phone, and it had gone dark. I did not want to adjust it while driving and there was no road shoulder. So, I pulled off onto a dark side street to get it working. Within one minute there was a police car with flashing lights behind me and a voice yelling at me to pull ahead. Had I done that, I would have had an accident with another car that was going by. The loud voice yelled at me again to pull ahead. I did so and got to a small parking lot in front of a business. The policeman pulled directly behind me so I could not move. He asked for my license and registration. I asked why he had stopped me. He stated I was blocking a crosswalk. I said there was no one there and explained that I was in a safe position to adjust my phone. He was young, overweight, obnoxious, and rude. It was clear I was going to get a citation, no matter what! He wrote me a $90 ticket, and stated I could come back from OH and argue my case to the magistrate! This was not a good way to end a long day.

9/23 Tu – coffee and donuts from a gas station, then a four-hour drive to Gerlach in the NW corner of NV.

Read the Gerlach sign –

Map showing a small southern part of the Black Rock Desert – High Rok Canyon Emigrant Trails NCA

The Black Rock Station, BLM Visitor Center, was not open due to the government shutdown. However the signage and information were good.

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Rt-34, starting into the NCA.

Map showing the route I took, first on Rt-34, then Rt-200, then onto the Playa at the Cassily Mine Campground, and finally my exit at the 12 Mile Playa Access.

Truck driving on Playa, notice the dust trail –

Right turn onto Rt-200

According to Wikipedia: “Burning Man is a week-long large-scale desert event focused on “community, art, self-expression, and self-reliance” held annually in the Western United States.” It started in 1986 at Baker Beach in San Francisco and moved to the Black Rock Desert in 1990. It has a tumultuous history. A symbolic man is created and burned symbolically at the end of the event. The event usually occurs around Labor Day. I met the fellow in the next photo who explained how he had worked at the event but quit because of a conflict with his boss. He cautioned me not to drive into the designated Burning Man “Black Rock City.”  He said the workers, who live there year-round, do not like others entering the area. The event had a crowd of 74,126 in 2023. Several people have died in relation to this event.

Getting ready to drive onto the Playa –

I drove 7-8 miles on the Playa and exited at the 12-Mile Playa Access. I only saw a fraction of this NCA and would like to spend more time here.

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I returned to Gerlach and drove Rt-34 NW to Vya and then took CA 8-A into the “Surprise Valley” of NE CA on the Barrel Springs Back Country Byway.

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This “cowboy” invited me to go for a ride with him in Surprise Valley. However, I was trying to get to Portland OR before midnight. As it turned out, I should have taken advantage of this opportunity.

I stopped at the BLM office in Cedarville CA but it was closed. I saw a sign for the USDA Modoc National Forest Warner Mountain Ranger District and followed the arrow to the office. The people there were very helpful and gave me a Modoc Country Map that was useful in following backcountry roads to Medicine Lake, which is in the new Sattitla Highlands National Monument (USFS). Sattitla means “obsidian place” in the Achomawi language. President Joe Biden established the monument by proclamation under the Antiquities Act on January 14, 2025. President Trump was sworn into office on January 20, 2025.
I took Rt-299 W through Alturas to Canby CA, then Rt-139 N to Tionesta, then Forest Service road FS-97 to the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway, then 2.6mi N on the Byway to Medicine Lake. It took a good deal of time to figure this out using at least three maps with varying route numbers.

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It is a beautiful lake with a number of camping areas. I happened upon a Buddhist group that was praying for World Peace.

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The Monk was giving individual blessings, and they were enjoying tea and symbolic snacks.

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After receiving my blessing, they welcomed me and asked me to stay and become a part of their community. So, I texted Helen and told her I had joined the group and would not be going home.

But alas, I was overcome by remorse and continued my route through the NM stopping in the Glass Flow Geological Area. It is difficult to take good pictures into the sun.

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I continued on the Byway (Rt-47) through the north part of the Sattitla NM to and into Lava Beds NM. Note the damage from a Forst Fire earlier in the year.

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To the south entrance of Lava Beds NM.

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The road surface improved and I stopped at the Visitor Center, which was not open.

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Helen and I explored this NM in 2007 and did hikes into five Lava Caves along the Cave Loop Road.

The Mushpot Cave was the only one with lights.

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In the others, we used lanterns. Note the lantern in Helen’s left hand.

Photo of the Fleener Chimneys 2007

We also hiked the 1.5-mile Captain Jack Stronghold Trail. Photo of the Medicine Pole.

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On this trip, I stopped at the Devils Homestead Lava Flow

And then drove to the Petroglyph Point Trail Section

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Tule Lake NM, which was a Japanese internment camp during WW II, was only three miles away. I visited here in May 2018 and posted several photos on our Blog. However, there are no photos of me. Hence, this photo to document that I DID visit this NM Unit!

There was no Visitor Center here in 2018. You can now see one in this photo.

I called Helen in Portland and said I could make it there about 12:30am. She said, go somewhere else, because we do not want you to wake us up or upset the dogs? I said, does that mean you want me to sleep in the SUV again with my pee bottle? She said, yes – what the heck! So, I drove to Crater Lake NP (took about 2-hours) to sleep in the Sequoia with my pee bottle.

Crater Lake NP is a great place for Sky Gazing, and it was a crisp cold night.

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I also treated myself to Mushrooms Bruschetta plus a Manhattan and relaxed in front of the fireplace in the Crater Lake Lodge!

 My first visit to this NP was in 1967 with my friend Jay. We were on a 10K mile trip through the U.S. and Canada.

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Helen and I visited in 2007 – photo from the Watchman Overlook

The Garfield Peak Trail is 1.8-miles one-way with a 1,000ft gain.

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Just the Facts:

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Mount Mazama

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2005 OR State Quarter

2005 50 State Quarters Coin Oregon Uncirculated Reverse

9/24 W – Arrived in Portland for lunch and a five-day visit with Kate.

9/25 Th – Left after lunch for a 2.5-day excursion. Our first stop was the Kurt Cobain “under the bridge” memorial in Aberdeen WA.

Kurt grew up here and spent some time under this bridge. His song “Something in the Way” recalls his experience under his bridge.

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He shot himself in 1994 (27-years-old) after struggling with addiction. Signs in front of the house next to the memorial.

We made a quick stop in the Quinault Rain Forest of Olympic NP. The following descriptions and photos follow a counterclockwise drive in and around the park starting within the Quinault Rain Forest (S) and progressing to Hurricane Ridge (N).

Then proceeded to this sign near South Beach

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Olympic NP has three major Ecological Regions. I will have photos related to each one.

Our next stop was the Kalaloch Lodge, which is in the park and on the Pacific Ocean. Our cabin overlooked the beach (#23). We decided to take a sunset stroll before dinner at the Lodge.

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9/26 F – 7am breakfast at the Creekside Restaurant in the Kalaloch Lodge

We were at the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center at 9am when it opened.

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Gauging rain by month in the Hoh Rain Forest. Rain totals 140-167 inches per year!

Slugs

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Our first hike was the Hall of Mosses Trail, 0.8-mile.

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Then the 1.2-mile Spruce Trail

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“Nurse Log”

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Followed by 0.5-mile walk on the Hoh River Trail

We have visited Olympic NP at least seven times. I will be adding photos to this Blog post from previous visits. I will include the year of the photo(s). These were taken in 1969 – my mother Cecile on the Hall of Mosses Trail.

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My Mom and brothers Pat and Mike on the Spruce Trail

1.5hrs (47mi) from the Hoh Rain Forest to the Quileute Indian Reservation in La Push. The two photos are from 2005. Note Helen at bottom of totem pole.

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I have photos from three hikes along the coast in 1969. The first hike was a three-leg 9-mile hike that started from the Ozette Lake campground and went 3-miles to the ocean at Cape Alva. The second leg was a three-mile hike on the beach and over rocks to Sand Point, and the third was a 3-mile hike back to our campsite.

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Petroglyphs

The second hike was three miles round trip (rt) to 3rd Beach south of La Push

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The third hike was to 2nd Beach (2-miles rt) with my mother, brothers Mike and Pat, and Helen

Mike and Pat holding piece of kelp

2nd Beach

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Tidal Zone – Helen’s foot

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We returned to 2nd Beach on this trip (2025) with Kate, because it was our favorite.

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Arch close-up

Jellyfish

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Storm debris

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Return to Kate’s car. Sequoia was in the shop in Portland for a left rear seal leak, which required new axle shaft, seal, and complete wheel brake system. The same repair was done in LA two years previously, but it failed due to poor workmanship.

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Stopped in Forks for an ice cream. It is the setting for the popular vampire series “Twilight.”

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In 1969, Helen and I drove to Sol Duc for a backpacking trip with the hope of climbing Mt Olympus (7,980ft), the highpoint of Olympic NP. The Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort was not open that year, but it is open now.  We started our backpack toward the mountain not knowing what to expect.

I asked Helen to stop for a photo – she was not too excited about that!

In the end, the snow was too deep and we aborted our mission. On the way back we came across a newly born fawn. We DID NOT touch it because then the mother would abandon the child.

Grown deer –

2011 America The Beautiful Quarters Coin Olympic Washington Uncirculated Reverse

Lake Crescent is located in the N of the park. H & T had a beautiful tent campsite there in 1969. Storm King Mountain (4,534ft) is located just east of the lake, this photo is from 2025.

The Trail to Storm King Mountain and Marymere Falls begin near the Lake Crescent Lodge. This is another “Forest” area in the park.

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In 1967, Jay and I climbed Storm King Mountain. I took this photo on the way down. Sailboat on Lake Crescent.

I have hiked the 1-mile rt trail to Marymere Falls three times. The first was with Jay in 1967. The second was with my brothers Mike and Pat in 1969. This is a photo of Mike – “The Thinker.”

The third was this year (2025) with Kate.

Crossing Barnes Creek –

Lower view of Marymere Falls –

Upper view of Marymere Falls –

Returning to car –

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Hurricane Ridge was clouded in on this trip. However, Helen and I had a good day when we traveled there from Seatle on 6/1/1969.

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We loved our VW “Beatle.”

We took a couple of hikes along the ridge. Mt Olympus is to the right in this photo.

Wildflowers had just started blooming –

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Olympic NP mountains were usually visible from Seatle – they beckon you to visit! We took advantage of this beautiful day to do exactly that! Checking trails –

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Vancouver Island Canada is on the other side of the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

By the time we got to Port Angeles it was dark. We continued driving around Puget Sound to Kent WA where we stayed in a Best Western motel.

9/27 Sat – Ron and Pat met us at the motel for breakfast.

Afterward, we drove 3hrs to the Paradise Henry M. Jackson Memorial Vis Ctr in Mount Rainier NP.

Mount Rainier from airplane August 2025 –

Top of the mountain from plane in 2005 –

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I saw Mount Rainier (Mt Tahoma) for the first time in 1967 when Jay and I tried to climb it. We needed a permit and met with the climbing rangers to get one. However, they would not give us one because we did not have climbing experience on glaciers.

Marmot

We did climb 4,639ft and more than 9-miles to Camp Muir, which is located at 10,000ft

Mount St Helens from Camp Muir – before it erupted!

In 1969, Helen and I invited our Canadian friends George and Linda to climb Mount Rainier with us.

Mt Rainier from the West –

We would all climb to Camp Muir and then George and I would summit early the next morning, while the ice was still stable.

The Skyline Trail –

Backpacking up the Muir Snowfield –

Camp Muir

Our tent, note the stove and cook pots –

Mt Adams left, Mt Hood center, Mt St Helens right

After having a problem with altitude sickness, George and I decided not to attempt the summit. We packed up after a light breakfast and headed down the mountain. This photo shows us descending through “sun cups” with Mt Adams in the background.

Back on the Skyline Trail with Mt St Helens in the background –

Helen and I visited the NP several times 1968-69. In the Fall of 1968, we drove to the Sunrise Visitor Center on the East side of the mountain.

Note the Emmons Glacier on the left of Steamboat Prow. It is the largest glacier in the lower 48 states and provides another route for climbing the mountain.

Starting our 7-mile rt hike.

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We hiked the Wonderland Trail to a point overlooking the Winthrop Glacier. The photos follow the glacier from its origin to its terminal moraine.

Note Crevasses

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Toe of the Winthrop Glacier, moraine, and Mystic Lake

We met Bob and Sue from New Zealand on this hike; they became our lifelong friends. They were living in Tacoma at that time but then moved to an apartment complex on Mercer Island, right next to ours! Bob was a doctor on a grant at the U of W. He specialized in the cause and treatment of pain and was also a spelunker (explores caves). Here is a photo of my favorite mountain from the U of Washington.

My birthday cake – June 1969

In July 1969, Bob and I went on an adventure to explore the ice caves in the Paradise Glacier on Mount Rainier.

Bob

These caves have collapsed because of global warming.

The color of ice – with light filtering through

In August 1969, I took my mother and brothers Pat and Mike to the Visitor Center and Paradise Inn.

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On July 12, 1991, I arrived in Kennewick WA to visit Stacy. She had a Paper Science and Engineering Internship at a Boise Cascade White Paper Division Plant. The next day she picked up Ken and James, and they followed me to the White River Campground on the east side of Mount Rainer.

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Early the next morning, we drove to Sunrise for the sunrise. It was beautiful!

We then went back to the campsite and hiked to the Glacier Basin Overlook.

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Afterward, we drove around the SE corner of the NP –

to the Paradise Visitor Center, where we took a walk on a snowfield.

Stacy, Ken, and James returned to Kennewick WA, and I slept in the van.

The next morning, I signed in with Rainier Mountain Guides, met my tent mates Steve and Peter, and started up the Muir Snowfield in a heavy mist and rain carrying a 50-pound backpack. I was on a five-day glacier climbing seminar.

We set up camp at 9,700ft, just below Camp Muir. I hiked up to take these photos.

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Nisqually Glacier

The next morning, we had ice axe, crampon, and basic rope practice and then trekked across the Nisqually and Wilson Glaciers to our next camp.

We had to find a way through the crevase fields.

Camp 2, 9,000ft – Peter, Steve, Tom and gear had to fit into one of these VE25 North Face tents.

About an inch of snow fell overnight. In the morning, we had more crampon, rope, and crevasse rescue practice. At 11am, we started a strenuous climb up the Kautz Glacier. Camp 3 was on a rocky outcrop at 11,200ft.

We were up at 2am to prepare for the push to the summit. We left camp at 4:15am with headlamps to light the way. The guides placed fixed ropes on a steep slope next to the icefall, and that is where the steepest climb began. Photo taken day before.

Reached the summit, Columbia Crest 14,410ft, of Mount Rainier at 9am on July 18, 1991. I had a teammate take the obligatory summit photo.

We then found and signed the summit register; tentmates Peter and Steve.

Descending from the summit crest – Mt Adams in background

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Dropping down onto the Kautz Glacier

Passing icefall on the way down to Camp 3

We had a rest stop and packed up our gear at Camp 3.

We then descended 3,000ft down the steep slope of the Kautz Glacier. The top was slushy because of the sun with ice underneath. Everyone fell at least once and used the ice axe self-arrest to stop. Photo of rest stop; notice, we are all tied into the rope for safety.

I was able to get this photo lower on the glacier.

Camp 4 –  

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Photos taken on the descent to Paradise

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In 2005, Helen and I made a visit to the east side of Mt Rainier. These photos were taken near Chinook Pass, when we did the 3.5-mile Naches Peak Loop Trail. The first is a popular view of Mount Rainier from Tipsoo Lake. I have seen it on several Calendars.

The Pacific Crest Trail crosses this bridge over Rt-410, the Mather Memorial Parkway.

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In 2025, we visited the south end of the park with Kate.

Leaving from the Visitor Center, we hiked the Skyline Trail to the Glacier Vista at 6,336ft, a gain in elevation of almost one thousand feet.

The Tatoosh Range to the South

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Mount Rainier covered with a lenticular cloud, indicating high winds at the top of the mountain. It is recommended that you not climb into such a cloud.

These photos were taken on the way down

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We then did the 1-mile rt Myrtle Falls Trail.

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After stopping at the Henry M. Jackson Memorial Visitor Center for an ice cream, we had a 3-hour ride back to Portland where I picked up our Sequoia – with the left rear axle, seal, and brake repaired. I was fortunate to get it fixed without having to change our itinerary. Kate went to pick up Benne and Greta and we met at her home for dinner.

9/28 Su – after mass at the Chapel of Mary at the Grotto, we went to the Javi restaurant for breakfast.

We spent the rest of the day relaxing and packing for our circuitous trip back to OH.

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Alaska – with Chad, Drago, and Seamus

August 31, 2025

8/8/2025 F – met Chad, Drago, and Seamus at the Crown Plaza O’Hare Chicago. Paid for long-term parking for the days we would be away. Drago selfie, start of trip –

8/9/2025 Sa – up at 4:15am, Uber to airport for 6am Alaska Air flight to Seattle (SEA). I had ordered breakfast on the plane, but they did not have a record of the order, so we had to buy some snacks during our flights. Arrived SEA at 8:37am, left 9:55am for Juneau (JNU) and arrived at 11:26am.

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The Frontier Suites Shuttle picked us up and drove us to the hotel in a light rain. Had lunch at the Valley Restaurant next door. Drago and Seamus ate the first of many burgers during our trip. It is owned and run by a Filipino family – every worker was a member of the family. At 2pm I went back to the airport to pick up a “Mystery Car” from Budget Car Rental – it turned out to be a Subaru Crosstrek Hybrid.

When I got back, we went out for a tour of Juneau. Our first stop was the Alaska State Capital. It is the only U.S. State Capital that is not accessible by road.

In 1867 William Henry Seward negotiated a price of 7.2 million for the purchase of Alaska from Russia.

We stopped by St Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church on our way to the waterfront.

We were impressed with the size of the Coral Princess and in fact saw it the next day on Glacier Bay.

There is a Memorial to the USS Juneau on the waterfront walk. It was a Navy ship that was sunk by the Japanese during the Battle of Guadalcanal on November 13, 1942. All but ten of her crew of 700 perished – including the five Sullivan brothers.

That evening we reviewed our plans.

8/10 Su – Had a big breakfast at the Valley Restaurant, then drove 10-min to the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center in the Tongass National Forest. It has been proposed that part of this National Forest become a National Park.

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It was not yet open, so we did the Photo Point Trail (0.33mi) in a light rain.

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Then continued on the Nugget Falls Trail (2-mi rt).

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When we returned to the Visitor Center it was open and provided a panoramic view of Mendenhall Lake, Mendenhall Glacier, and Nugget Falls. Note, the fog/rain/clouds obscure the upper glacier and mountains.

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At 4pm we took the half-hour Alaska Air flight from Juneau to Gustavus, followed by a 10-mi shuttle ride to the Glacier Bay NP Lodge/Visitor Center.

Toured the small NP Vis. Ctr. on the second floor of the Lodge

Then did the Tlingit Trail along Bartlett Cove. The Huna Tlingit still inhabit this area.

Healing Totem Pole

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Traditional Dugout Canoe

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Humpback Whales travel here from Mexico and Hawaii for the summer.

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Tlingit Tribal House and construction of Totems

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Hiked the Forest Trail outside the Lodge ~1-mi round trip (rt).

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Hawk?

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Blackwater Pond Viewing Deck

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Landscaping with Ice

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Dinner at the Lodge, the boys shared a bed, and Chad (top) and I (bottom) a bunk bed. We tested the top to be sure it would support his 265 lbs. and I would not be crushed during the night!

8/11 M – We were up at 5:30am to board the Baranof Wind for our eight-hour tour of Glacier Bay NP.

Raining – donuts for breakfast

We very much enjoyed the tour with our park ranger regularly describing the history, sites, and wildlife. However, the weather detracted from the full visual experience we were hoping for.

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Marble Islands – sea lions, seals, sea otters, birds (e.g., tufted puffin, oyster catchers, marbled murrlets, etc.), and a couple of whales in the distance.

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Sea Otters – this is the largest Sea Otter Colony in the world!

Onboard entertainment – ranger review of the desire for sea otter fur due to its warmth and comfort.

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Mountain Sheep

The highlight of the tour was the Margerie Glacier, almost one mile across.

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Seals on ice island in foreground

Everyone cheered when we saw a section of ice crash (calve) into the water. I wondered, should we be cheering for Global Warming!

Leaving the Margerie Glacier

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The Margerie and most glaciers in the park have retreated significantly since Helen and I were here in July 2011 – see Blog for that month and year.

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We got back to Bartlet Cove at 3:30pm, the boys skipped stones for 20 minutes, and then we boarded the shuttle for the Gustavus airport. We heard our 5:35pm plane to JNU pass overhead. But, it could not land because of weather conditions. I immediately ran over to the Alaska Seaplane office hoping to catch their 6pm flight to JNU. I was able to get all four of us on that plane. So, I ran back to the Alaska Air office and canceled our re-scheduled flight for 5:35pm the next day.

We carried our luggage to the Alaska Seaplane office to wait for the 6pm flight. It also flew over but could not land. They said another plane was on its way. But that flight was canceled as well. So, I booked us on a 6am flight the next morning to JNU, with a 7:45am connecting flight to Skagway, and we returned to the Glacier Bay Lodge. There was one room left with a single Queen bed. A returning German couple also wanted the room. After a long discussion we were able to get the room and the boys slept on the floor. I now had Wi-Fi, so I could cancel our hotel in Juneau but could not cancel the Ferry we were supposed to take the next day from JNU because the office was only open 7am to 3:30pm M-F!

8/12 Tu – Was a day of Persistence, Flexibility and Patience. – Up at 4:30am to catch the 5am shuttle to the Alaska Seaplane office in Gustavus. That flight was cancelled; so, we booked the 10:25am flight. That flight was also cancelled due to weather conditions.

That meant there was no way we could get to Skagway. My phone did not work in Gustavus, so I had to borrow phones to search for information, cancel, and make new reservations. First, I canceled the Alaska Marine Ferry reservation for a weather-related refund. Next, I was able to convince my car rental in Skagway to change my car reservation to Sunday 8/17, the day we were all supposed to land in Chicago.

We decided that Chad and the boys would return to Chicago as scheduled. I, on the other hand, canceled my Delta reservation and made a new reservation to return to Chicago on 8/17 on Alaska Air from Juneau. That way I could make arrangements to fly to Skagway. I then made a reservation on Alaska Air to fly to Juneau on 8/16. In addition, I made reservations to fly from JNU to Skagway in the morning and return from Skagway to JNU in the late afternoon on 8/17 with Alaska Seaplanes.

So, we had to spend most of the day in the Alaska Seaplanes office in Gustavus. Thankfully, they had snack food and drinks that we could add to the beef jerky, potato chips, and oatmeal/raisin cookies I had brought from OH.

Our 2pm flight was put on hold; then two Alaska Seaplanes arrived at 3pm and we were able to takeoff for Juneau at 4pm. This was the first small plane ride for Drago and Seamus on our first partly sunny afternoon in Alaska!

Gustavus Power Plant

Flight over the Chilkat Mountains

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Landing in Juneau – view of Mendenhall Glacier, Mendenhall Lake, and Nugget Falls

Chad ordered an Uber to return to the Juneau waterfront and take the Goldbelt Tram up Mount Roberts

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Nice views of the Gastineau Channel, Cruise Ships, and Juneau

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We did the Totem and Alpine Trails on the slopes of Mount Roberts

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Bald Eagle Wingspan

Celebratory dinner at The Hangar on the Wharf Restaurant as the Cruise Ship “Anthem of the Seas” left port

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8/13 W – Up at 5:15am, 6am Shuttle to airport to catch 7:34am Alaska Air JNU to ANC flight – flight canceled (Fog)!  Re-booked for later in the morning – flight canceled (Fog/Rain)! Re-booked for Alaska Air leaving at 2pm, flying to Yakutat, then to Cordova, and then to Anchorage. It was clear on much of the route but was cloudy when we arrived at 5pm.

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I picked up our Nissan Sentra from Avis, then pulled out of the garage into rain. Our first stop was Earthquake Park; it commemorates the 1964 earthquake that devastated Southcentral Alaska.

Our next stop was Resolution Point and the Captain Cook monument overlooking the Knik Arm of the Cook Inlet.

We continued on to the Alaskan RR Depot –

Then walked up to the Alaska 49th State Monument –

It was then a short drive to the Salmon Viewing Area on Ship Creek.

When we arrived at the Fairfield Inn & Suites to check in, they refused to give us the room because the reservation was in Helen’s name using her reward points, and she was not there! I argued that the room was book with her reward points AND my money, which I had paid by credit card. That was still not acceptable. Finally, I produced Helen’s passport for the Manager, and they allowed us to take the room.

Went to the Bear Paw Bar & Grill for Fish & Chips for the Big Boys and Burgers for the Little Boys.

8/14 Th – 6am breakfast at the Fairfield Inn and then started driving in the rain to Talkeetna. We arrived about 10am and were told that our Flightseeing Grand Denali NP Glacier Landing Flight was canceled due to weather. We then stopped by the Denali Climbing Cemetery on our way back to Talkeetna and visited the memorial for those who have died attempting to climb Denali (Mount McKinley).

Six climbers had already died on the mountain when our group started our attempt in 1995.

We then visited the Denali NP Climbing Visitor Center where you register to climb the mountain. The Ranger taught Drago and Seamus how to tie a couple of knots.

On the way back to Rt-3, we stopped for Birch Ice Cream at the Kahiltna Birchworks

We now implemented Plan B – driving into Denali NP. We first stopped at Denali Viewpoint South on Rt-3.

The first photo is what we saw and the second is the same view on a good day!

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We also did the short hike to a viewpoint looking across the Chulitna River toward the Ruth Glacier and the “Greatest Gorge.” The gorge is about 9,000ft deep, deeper than the Grand Canyon and perhaps the deepest gorge in the world, but it is at least half full of ice!

Had lunch at the Denali Doghouse in Denali Nation AK, got gas, and then entered Denali NP.

Our first stop was the Visitor Center off Rt-3

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Building a Moose

Our first stop on the Park Road was the Mountain Vista picnic area. This was once a tourist camp for visiting the park.

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We then continued in the rain, as far as we could by car, to the Savage River (15mi) – saw a Moose along the way

When you reach the Savage River, you must take a bus to proceed further into the park.

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We did the 2-mile Savage River Loop Trail in a light rain.

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Explorer Seamus

Nice hike and interesting rocks along the way –

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Bridge is the half-way point on the Savage River Trail

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Rain increased on the way back

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On the way to Fairbanks, we stopped at the Fly Denali office in Healy to see if they would have a Denali Glacier Landing flight on the morning of 8/16, the day we were to return to Anchorage for our flights home. The answer was yes, weather permitting (it was raining)! We signed up, thinking the probability was low. The cost was double our previous reservation in Talkeetna, so part of me was hoping we would again be “rained out.”

Ate at a fast-food dinner in Fairbanks, bought lunch items at a Fred Meyer store, then moved into our VRBO duplex, home for the next two nights. I was now sleeping regularly with Drago and Seamus with Chad.

 8/15 F – had an early breakfast at the A W Restaurant in Fairbanks, so we could be at the BLM office when it opened at 7:45am. This map shows our seven stops for the day. Our main objective was to see a herd of caribou in the Steese National Conservation Area (NCA).

2025 is the 25th year anniversary of the National Conservation Lands Program.

Our first stop was the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System (TAPS).

TAPS spans about 800-miles, from Prudhoe Bay and feeder pipelines on the North Slope to Valdez AK, where it is picked-up and transported by ships.

Our next stop was the Davidson Ditch. It is a 90-mile system of inverted siphons and ditches (1929) that carries water from the Chantanika River to Fairbanks to power gold mining operations.

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As we gained altitude on the Steese Highway, we came upon a female caribou (they have horns) and calf along the road. Drago took this photo, and Chad did a good video of them moving along the road and up into the forest.

Our third stop was at the Twelvemile Summit Wayside. The first photo indicates the weather conditions – cold (mid 40s), windy, cloudy/foggy, and raining.

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We all “layered up” for our ~1+ mile hike on the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail to the Steese NCA North Unit.

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In the Clouds

Caribou Mirage

First part of trail – boardwalk

Second part of trail – tundra

Reaching the Steese NCA North Unit

Steese Highway

Upper Birch Creek Wayside in the Steese NCA South Unit.

Birch Creek – National Wild River

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Fun skipping stones

Trunk lunch after Drago drove a car for the first time – across the parking lot!

Next stop and furthest point we traveled on the Steese Highway – the tundra of the Eagle Summit Wayside. As you can see, we were now back in the clouds.

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We did a couple of short hikes into the clouds – including the east end of the Pinnell Mountain NST.

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The clouds lifted a bit as we headed down the trail. It was an opportunity to take photos of tundra wildflowers.

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We were now able to see the road continuing toward its end in Circle AK.

Caribou bones and footprint found nearby –

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As we drove back toward Fairbanks, we made a stop in the White Mountains National Recreation Area.

There was some daylight left, so we headed downtown to The Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center and a sculpture titled – “A Hand Up.”

We then walked through the park areas along the Chena River.

Golden Heart Plaza

Lend Lease Monument – commemorating our support of Russia during World War II. Our women pilots would fly planes to MT, our men pilots would fly them to Fairbanks where Russian pilots would pick them up, fly across the Bearing Sea, and eventually to the Eastern Front where the Russians were fighting the Germans.

It was a short drive to Creamer’s Field and the Migratory Waterfowl Refuge where we saw Sandhill Cranes and a number of other birds.

Ate dinner back at the A W Restaurant, a local restaurant, not the Root Beer chain. Then we returned to our VRBO duplex and packed for our early morning trip back to Anchorage for our flight home.

8/16 Sat – up at 4:30am to pack, donuts and juice for breakfast, then drove 2hrs to Healy AK to see if our Denali Glacier Flight was a go.  It was raining when we arrived but the weather report from Denali indicated we could do the flight. So, plans were reviewed, we put on our glacier booties and took off in a slight drizzle.

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Our plane flew Southwest over the Alaskan Range

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Reaching higher elevations

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Chad and I were on the left side of the plane and Drago was on the right side, so we were getting different views going to and returning from our glacier landing.

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Beautiful alpine scenery

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Note landing location

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View of Denali (Mount McKinley)

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Icefall

Circling for landing

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Note the lenticular clouds indicating high winds on the mountain

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Approaching landing on the Ruth Glacier

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Landing

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On finger of Ruth Glacier

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Denali above Chad’s Right Shoulder. It was calm, clear, quiet, comfortable, and Beautiful!

Interesting Story – Don Sheldon was a bush pilot who started the first glacier landings on Denali. He owned and ran the Talkeetna Air Service. In 1953, before Denali NP existed, he used the Homestead Act to acquire 5 acres on the mountain and proceeded to build a “retreat” on rocky terrain just above the Ruth Glacier. He and his family improved the facilities, and it is now known as the Sheldon Chalet. The rental cost starts at $32,000/night, with a three-night minimum stay. A specific package, the Ultimate Mountain Adventure, is priced at $57,000 per person for a 4-day, 3-night stay, which includes transportation to and from Anchorage, and is available for 2026!

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The following photos were taken while returning to the Healy airport –

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Glacier detail

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Denali

We had some air turbulence on the return flight

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Follow the Glacier

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The Home Stretch

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This Denali Glacier Landing Flight was the Highpoint of our Alaska Trip!

See Blog for September 2020 to view photos taken by Peter and Kate during their flight from Talkeetna and landing on the Kahiltna Glacier on the south side of Denali.

Filled the gas tank, then Chad drove 5hrs to the Anchorage Airport as we ate snacks in the car. Arrived about 4pm and Chad, Drago, and Seamus checked in for their 5:15pm flight to SEA, followed by an11:55pm flight to MPL, a 7am flight to ORD (Chicago O’Hare), a Crown Plaza hotel shuttle to their car, and a drive home to Milwaukee.

Meanwhile, I gassed-up the rental car, returned it, and checked in for my newly booked 7:48pm Alaska Air flight to Juneau. I was on a mission to do a segment of the Chilkoot National Historic Trail outside of Skagway AK. There are a total of 27 National Scenic and Historic Trails. After doing a hike on the Chilkoot Trail, I would be able to state that I had experienced all of them.

I took the Frontier Suites Shuttle to the hotel and checked in for the night.

8/17 Sun – I was up at 5:30am to catch the 6am shuttle to the airport for my 7:45am flight with Alaska Seaplanes to Skagway. There was a weather cancelation at 8am and I rebooked for an 11am flight. That flight was canceled. So, I tried to book the 3pm flight but it was full. That left me with the last possible flight to Skagway at 6:30pm. Leaving Juneau –

Since I had planned to return to Juneau today at 5pm to catch Alaska Air flights to Chicago, I had to cancel Alaska Seaplanes and Alaska Air reservations. In addition, I had to book an Alaska Seaplanes flight to Juneau the following afternoon, and re-book my flights to Anchorage and Chicago on Alaska Air. Nothing accomplished today, except getting to Skagway!

I arrived in Skagway at 7:30pm and had to find a place to stay. As I started to walk into town, I met John who was trying to get to Canada to meet his hunting guide (Air Canada was on strike). He and his brother own a roofing company in Lubbock TX. He had recently made a reservation at the Skagway Inn and was told there was one room left. He called and confirmed the reservation for me. We then walked about a half mile to the hotel carrying our backpacks and dragging our bags through a light rain.

I was assigned the “Essie Room,” the smallest room in the former brothel. It was clean, comfortable, and decorated with vintage items. The bed just about filled the room with the restroom down the hall. John and I met in the restaurant for dinner right before they closed. My Shrimp Caesar Salad was reasonably priced and excellent.

8/18 Mon – I went for breakfast when it opened at 7am and was surprised to have a served full breakfast as part of the room cost of $139.32; omelet, hashbrowns, fruit, juice, and coffee – I Highly Recommend the Historic Skagway Inn!

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I hired a taxi to drive me to the Historic Dyea Townsite, which was/is the start of the Chilkoot National Historic Trail. He picked me up at 8am for the 10-mile drive, in a light rain, to the townsite.  

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In 1895, Dyea was a small Tlingit village and fishing camp. It was also the staging area for Native trade to and from the interior over the Chilkoot Pass. That all changed in 1896 when gold was discovered in the Klondike area outside of Dawson City, Yukon Territory, Canada. That prompted the 1896-1898 Klondike Gold Rush when Dyea grew to 5,000-8,000 people. Almost as quickly as it rose, the Boomtown fell to 3 inhabitants by 1903 when the railroad was completed from Skagway through the White Pass to Whitehorse Canada.

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“Glacial Rebound,” the result of “Ground Rebound,” has resulted in the land here rising 7-feet since 1890, affecting access to the Taiya River, Taiya Inlet, and Pacific Ocean.

It is about a 0.5-mile walk to the Dyea Cemetery, which is also called the “Slide Cemetery” because it is the resting place of about seventy “stampeders” who failed to head the warnings and died in a series of snow slides (avalanches) across the Chilkoot Trail on Palm Sunday, April 3, 1898.

It is another 0.5 mile walk to the start of the Chilkoot National Historic Trail – a 33-mile international trail that starts at Dyea and ends at Bennett, BC, Canada. There are nine campgrounds along the trail, which has an elevation gain of about 3500 feet. The Chilkoot Pass is roughly the halfway point and is the international border between the U.S. and Canada.

The first part of the trail follows the Taiya River.

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A permit is required from the Chilkoot Trail Center (NPS) in Skagway for overnight stays on the trail.

The trail has been called the “World’s Longest Museum” because of artifacts left along the trail. The trail has gone from a Tlingit trade route, to a gold rush highway, to a recreational trail.

I did a mile hike, as I had to get back to catch my plane to Juneau.

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Registration Box –

Returning to trailhead

“Golden Stairs” – top part of the Chilkoot Trail to Chilkoot Pass (1898).

I went straight to the airport to check on my noon flight – it was canceled due to weather! I had a choice. I could re-book for 4pm and risk that flight being canceled and having to spend one or more night(s) in Skagway, or I could take the Alaska Marine ferry at 2:15pm, requiring me to cancel my Alaska Air flight home that night and re-booking the flight for the following day. In addition, I would have to get a hotel in Juneau for this evening. I opted for the latter, since there was no guarantee that I could fly to Juneau the next day. So, I canceled my flight to Juneau and flight to Chicago, booked the ferry to Juneau, booked a hotel in Juneau, and booked another flight to Chicago. This has been the story of the entire trip – changes due to Bad Weather!

I now had 1.5-hours before boarding the ferry. I started by going to the Klondike Gold Rush NHP Visitor Center

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“Steepest Climb”

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The NHP opened the Mascot Saloon Museum (1898) sometime after my 2011 visit.

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I treated myself to a gourmet lunch of Halibut Puff Pastry, Fish Chowder, Salad, and Beer at Olivia’s Bistro in the Historic Skagway Inn, then headed for the ferry.

 Alaska Marine Vehicle (Ferry) “MV Columbia” arriving in Skagway (late)

Sailing the Taiya Inlet and enjoying a salmon dinner. I discovered that state employees working on ferries cannot accept tips.

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The Ferry left Skagway late, arrived in and left Haines late, and arrived in Juneau at 11:30pm, about two hours late. The hotel shuttle was no longer running. So, I hitched a ride in a van to the airport and then walked a half mile to the Frontier Suites hotel – this was my fourth night in Juneau.

The Aurora Borealis Season is September to April. However, NOAA had reported activity last night and stated that tonight the conditions would be good. So, I went out from 12:30am to 2am looking for the Northern Lights. Alas, I could not find a dark/clear place to look north. I only saw a light glow above the trees. However, I did have some excitement as I returned to the motel. As I arrived, I heard three gunshots close by and thought I may have been the target. I ran into the lobby. The desk clerk had also heard the shots. He locked down the hotel and called the police. In the end, we thought the shots came from a homeless camp across the highway. Goodnight Tom.

8/19 Tu – Day of waiting and best weather day of trip. I had breakfast at the Valley restaurant and lunch at the Juneau airport. Took an Alaska Air flight to Anchorage at 6pm and then a “red-eye” flight to Chicago arriving 8/20 W at 5:40am. Took the Crown Plaza shuttle to the hotel and then drove home arriving at 5pm.

FYI – Helen and I visited Juneau, climbed Mt Roberts, paddled Mendenhall Lake, did the boat tour of Glacier Bay NP, ferried to/from Skagway, and visited the Klondike Goldrush National Historical Park in July 2011 – see Blog for additional photos and commentary.

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Ancestral Footprints of Grand Canyon NM and Yuma Crossing NHA in AZ, Chuckwalla NM in CA, and Castner Mountains NM in TX

February 25, 2025

2/11/25 Tu – Drove north 4hrs from Scottsdale AZ to the Tusayan Ranger Station for Kaibab National Forest where I picked up information and a vey helpful map of the USFS Tusayan Ranger District.  I then proceeded 6 miles to the South Rim of Grand Canyon NP.  Despite some sun, the temperature in the low 40s with a strong wind, made for a cold day.  Photos are from Mather Point.

Drove east about six miles to Grandview Point on the South Rim and then, after about two miles, turned south into Kaibab National Forest.

My first stop was the USFS Grandview Tower in Baaj Nwaavjo I’tah Kukveni – Ancestral Footprints of the Grand Canyon NM.

I held on tight as I climbed the 80-foot 1930s steel tower in high winds.  This photo was taken looking north toward the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.

President Biden designated this National Monument in 2023 after a request from the 13 tribes of the Grand Canyon Tribal Coalition. There are large sections of the NM both south and north of Grand Canyon NP.

I then did a short hike on the Arizona National Scenic Trail, which starts on the AZ-UT border, passes through the Grand Canyon, and continues south for over 800 miles to the Mexican border.

The 1880s Hull cabin, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, is 2-miles from the tower and can be rented from the USFS.  William Hull raised sheep and was one of the first to take tourists to the Grand Canyon.

I then drove Forest Service roads to a gate and water tank about a half mile from the Old Grand Canyon Airport.

My last stop was the start of the Red Butte Trail.

The 2.4-mile rt trail leads to the Red Butte USFS Fire Tower and the top of Red Butte (7,326ft). The trail gains about 1,000ft in elevation.

Red Butte is sacred to the Havasupai Indian Tribe that live in the Grand Canyon.  I met Bobby, an Indian from the Four-Corners area at the trailhead.  Among other things, he is a photographer and had just finished flying his drone around the top of Red Butte. 

One frame of his drone footage of me –

Departing the NM –

Returned to the Holiday Inn Express in Scottsdale AZ

2/12 W – Spent the day in the Phoenix area. Drove around Camelback Mountain looking for the location from which George Bickerstaff may have painted the landscape oil that we have in our living room. Bickerstaff was an early nineteenth-century American Expressionist painter.

This is the view from the porch of the JW Marriott Scottsdale Camelback Inn on Lincoln Dr.  This photo was taken looking South.  The real location may be NW from here in the Paradise Area, OR, it is not a painting of Camelback Mountain!

Camelback Mountain from the airport train when I arrived (view looking North) –

Another view looking North, from the South side of Camelback Mountain – this looks more like the painting.

View from Arizona Falls, which are man-made, on the Arizona Canal that runs through Phoenix. There is a small hydroelectric plant there.

I then visited Papago Park next to the Phoenix Zoo.

Did the short hike to “Hole in the Rock,” a red rock butte.

Only a half mile round trip.

Looking East toward Zoo through “Hole in the Rock”

2/13 Th – 4hrs (212mi) from Scottsdale AZ to Corn Springs CA in Chuckwalla National Monument (BLM). See Chuckwalla MTNS Area south of I-10. Gravel Road to Corn Springs Campground and Corn Springs Mining Area.

The new NM is in the Colorado Desert of Southern CA that protects 624,270 acres of desert habitat in Riverside and Imperial counties from development.  The monument spans several mountain ranges between Joshua Tree National Park and the Chocolate Mountain Aerial Gunnery Range, designated a NM on 1/14/2025, shortly before President Biden left office. Corn Springs Palm Oasis and Campground.

0.5 Mile Interpretive Trail – it was a cloudy day with the temperature getting up to about 55 degrees. Also, there was scattered rain, which is very unusual in this desert location.

Petroglyphs – some said to be over 10,000 years old, others grafitti.

Edward Wodetzki’s Miner’s Cabin and remains of a mill.

Corn Springs Mining Area – sign on building states “Active Mining Claim.”

It took about an hour to return to I-10, drive to the Desert Center Exit, and then drive a short distance to the location of Desert Steve’s Cabin and his plaque at the base of Alligator Rock, which is within the new Chuckwalla NM.

There is another plaque there as well – Mack, “He Did Well His Job.”

I hiked to the top of the alligator’s head and looked down his spine.  Alligator Rock has spiritual and cultural significance for local tribes.

I-10 from the top of the alligator’s head –

It took about 15-minutes to drive to the Edmund C Jaeger Nature Sanctuary, which is also within the new NM.

Some nice balanced rocks there –

2.5hrs (135mi) from Edmund C. Jaeger Nature Sanctuary to Yuma AZ.

2/14 F – Valentines Day – I arrived at West Wetlands Park, which is on the Colorado River in Yuma AZ, at about 8am. It was my first stop in Yuma Crossing National Heritage Area (NHA).  Yuma is close to both the CA and Mexican borders.

There was an interesting Mormon Battalion Monument – “Army of the West” in the park just past this trail bridge. The battalion marched 2,100 miles from Iowa to Southern California establishing the first wagon route to the Pacific Coast – watch out for Rattlesnakes!

The statue is of Philemon Merrill who led the battalion (~500 enlisted and volunteer men). The Battalion was operational from 1846-1847 during the Mexican American War.

This map shows some of the major sites in the Yuma Crossing NHA that are east of West Wetlands Park.

In 1775-76, Spain sent the Juan Bautista de Anza expedition 1,000 miles from Sonora Mexico to Alta CA to establish a route to settle the port of San Francisco. The local Quechan tribe assisted the expedition in crossing the Colorado River at present-day Yuma.  Yuma is one of the sites along the NPS Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail.

I stopped by the Old Yuma City Hall to pick up some literature from the office of Yuma Crossing NHA. According to the Guinness Book of Records, Yuma AZ is the “Sunniest City on Earth!”

My next stop was the Colorado River State Historic Park.

This was the location of the Southwest Army Quartermaster Depot 1865-1883.

In the late 1800s, steamboats delivered Army supplies up the Colorado River to Yuma for storage and disbursement to Indian War forts. Note the steamboat on the Colorado River.

There are period displays in the former Officer Quarters –

The Bureau of Reclamation Building presents the history of Colorado River development in Yuma.

A short distance away is the Pivot Point Bridge, “Ocean to Ocean Bridge,” crossing the Colorado River – location where the first train entered the Arizona Territory in 1877. This is a 1907 Southern Pacific Baldwin steam locomotive. A Southern Pacific Hotel was located here from 1881 to 1926.

The Historic Sanguinetti House Museum & Gardens is nearby.  E. F. Sanguinetti (1867-1945) built the house, which is considered a “Jewel of Historic Yuma.”  E. F. Sanguinetti (1867-1945), an Italian Immigrant, built the adobe house in 1882.  As a result of his many businesses, he became known as the “Merchant Prince of Yuma.”

The Yuma Territorial Prison overlooks the Colorado River.

A reconstructed Guard Tower for the Prison is located here.

Sally Port into Prison –

The Prison Museum was very interesting presenting the history of the location as well as the male and female inmates.  Model of the Yuma Territorial Prison (1876-1909).

Gatling rapid fire gun –

One example of a woman prisoner –

Hanging display –

Crimes –

Cell Block –

Iron Bunkbeds –

Examples of prisoner crimes –

As of my visit to Yuma Crossing NHA, I have now visited all 62 National Heritage Areas.

3.5hrs (230mi) to Tucson (I-8 runs along Juan Bautista de Anza NHT), and the west unit of Saguaro NP. Quick stop to pickup a new NP brochure and do a short walk in the Saguaro cactus forest.

Saguaro cactus forest –

Overnight at a Holiday Inn Express.

2/15/25 Sa – 5hrs from Tucson to Castner Range NM (2023), just North of El Paso TX.  

First stop was Smugglers pass on Woodrow Bean Trans Mountain Road in Franklin Mountains SP.

Castner Range NM is located just east of the pass. It is a part of Fort Bliss and is administered by the U.S. Army.

Cattle/Horse Thieves (Wrestlers) and Fusselman Canyon –

The El Paso Museum of Archaeology is located at Wilderness Park.

It has a Nature Trail that is within Castner Range National Monument and is the only part of the NM that is currently open to the public. Again, be alert for snakes.

Fort Bliss was a weapons test site 1926-1966 and the remainder of the NM is closed as the Army acts to remove unexploded ordinance.  Peligro – Danger

The El Paso Museum of Archaeology presents the human history of the area.

The Museum placed this photo on their Facebook page.

I then stopped by the National Border Patrol Museum, which is next door. My brother Joe worked as a Border Patrol agent in El Paso early in his career.

Celebrated the end of my trip with a Vietnamese dinner and continued reading of “Winter of the World” by Ken Follett. It is book two of the Century Trilogy. Use reward points for my stay at Towne Place Suites El Paso North.

2/16/25 Su – Up at 4:30am for my 6:30am flight from El Paso to Denver, then flight to Columbus OH where I had to clear snow and ice off our car before driving home.  Helen had a nice hot meal ready for me at 5pm. It was a 14-hour travel day.

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Oil Region, Last Green Valley, and Delaware & Lehigh NHAs; also New England National Scenic Trail

September 30, 2024

9/27 F – 4.5hrs to Oil City PA, our first stop in the Oil Region National Heritage Area – Oil City on Oil Creek.

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Oil City is where Oil Creek enters the Allegheny River – it was a major center for transportation of oil.

Three miles N is McClintock Well #1 on the Erie to Pittsburgh Trail

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It was one of the hundreds of wells drilled along Oil Creek during the frenzy that followed the success of the Drake Well. Drilling in 1861. McClintock Well #1 initially produced 175 barrels of oil a day but was down to half a barrel a day in 1920. It is advertised as the longest producing well in the U.S (now >155-years). However, they only pump it once per year and the oil revenue is not sufficient to cover the cost of pumping – they just want to retain the record!

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The Drake Well Museum and Park is only 20-min away just east of Titusville PA.

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The 1859 Drake Well launched the modern petroleum industry. This replica engine house was built in 1945.

Oil Transportation Building on left, Engine House on right, and standard steel drilling rig (1920) in background.

Horse and Wagon Transport

Truck Drilling and Transport

Railroad Transport

Model and recreation of early drilling

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Museum

How many barrels of oil?

Quaker State Oil Company Truck

A 15-min ride on Rt 227 took us to this sign. The first oil pipeline (1865) was 5-miles in length and ran from Pithole City to the railroad in Miller Farm PA.

The site of Pithole City was a couple of miles off Rt-227 and 10 mins away. Now, there is only the Pithole City Visitor Center and descriptive signs.

Pithole City was at the base of this hill.

The following weekend they were going to have a lantern tour of the town footprint at the base of the hill.

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Spent the night in Wilkes-Barre PA.

9/28 Sa – 4hrs to Old Sturbridge Village MA, arrived 11:30am.  Paid our senior admission, $14 each (half-price today) and decided on our route through the village.

“Old Sturbridge Village is a living museum which recreates life in rural New England during the 1790s through 1830s. It is the largest living museum in New England, covering more than 200 acres. The Village includes 59 antique buildings, three water-powered mills, and a working farm. Third-person costumed interpreters demonstrate and interpret 19th-century arts, crafts, and agricultural work. The museum is popular among tourists and for educational field trips.” [Wikipedia]

We had an enjoyable, leisurely, afternoon on a beautiful Fall Day.

Costumed historians were located throughout the village – this one described life on a small farm.

Photo of the Village Center

The Tin Shop

Shared Chicken Pot Pie and Shepherd’s Pie and a local beer at the Bullard Tavern and then toured the large “Salem Towne House” (1796). It was moved here from Charlton MA. A Federal Style house built for a prosperous farm family that were leaders in their community.

View from the garden

Village Well

Tour Wagon in front of Minor Grant Store

Thompson Bank

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Fitch Barn and Garden

Weaving demonstration

VT Covered Bridge linking village to rural buildings and displays.

Village Blacksmiths

Cooper shop – barrels and buckets

Dinner recreation on the Freeman Farm

Freeman Barn with corn and hay

Pottery Kiln

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Kiln products

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Going to Center (Friends) Meetinghouse (Church) for a Singing Performance by the Old Sturbridge Village Singers. 

They sang period songs, some accompanied by a bagpipe, and were excellent.

Had an hour of “antiquing” in Sturbridge before a nice dinner at Sturbridge Seafood. Stayed in the La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham.

9/29 Su – Old Sturbridge Village was our first stop in the Last Green Valley National Heritage Corridor (NHC), which runs from Eastern CT to North Central MA.  The Last Green Valley is green by day and dark by night. With 84% forest and farm, it is the last swath of dark night sky in the coastal sprawl between Boston and Washington DC.  We drove the Rt-169 National Scenic Byway past historic sites and buildings, stone walls, mature trees, colonial village centers, industrial-era mill villages, and farmsteads to experience the landscape and culture of southern New England.

Our first stop today was Woodstock, CT.

Roseland Cottage was the summer home of Henry and Lucy Bowen and their young family. It was built in 1846 in the newly fashionable Gothic Revival style, The house is instantly recognizable by its unusual color (rose?).

The landscape includes original boxwood-edged parterre gardens planted in the 1850s. The estate also includes an icehouse, aviary, and carriage barn.

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Unfortunately, Roseland Cottage was not open. It is known for its colorful interior, featuring elaborate wall coverings, heavily patterned carpets, stained glass (Victorian Era), and the nation’s oldest surviving indoor bowling alley. Henry Bowen used Roseland Cottage as a place to entertain friends and political connections, including four U.S. presidents. The house is a National Historic Landmark. Photos taken through windows.

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One hour south on Rt-169 is the Norwichtown Green.

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Norwichtown was settled in 1659 around this Green. “The Benedict Arnold Trail” which focuses on Norwich during the Colonial era and the Revolutionary War, begins at the Green. Benedict Arnold, one of America’s most notorious Revolutionary War traitors, called Norwich home. A two-mile trail passes the family homestead, Leffingwell Inn, and Olmstead-Lathrop Manor (1600s).

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Huntington House (1765) decorated for Halloween. 

The Dr. Daniel Lathrop Brick Schoolhouse (1783) now serves as the Norwich Heritage & Regional Visitors’ Center.

Norwich was celebrating (2024) the Bicentennial of Marquis de Lafayette’s tour.  In 1824, Lafayette returned to the U.S. to revisit places he served with General George Washington in the Revolutionary War. Helen’s celebration included a trip to “Millionaire’s Triangle” in Norwich for an Estate Sale.

Continuing south, we drove to Cockaponset CT State Forest and the Timberland Preserve.

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We did a 2.1-mile loop hike in the Preserve, which included about 1.5-miles on the New England National Scenic Trail (NST). The New England NST stretches 235-miles from Long Island Sound in CT to the MA-NH border.

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The New England NST follows the Menunkatuck Trail through this area.

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The New England National Scenic Trail became a National Park Service Unit in 2023.

Note New England National Scenic Trail sign

Trail and Markers

Upper Guilford Lake

3.5hrs (180mi) from NE NST to Easton PA, where the Lehigh River enters the Delaware River. The Delaware and Lehigh (D & L) National Heritage Corridor Visitor Ctr is in Hugh Moore Park, which is on an island in the Lehigh River. The 165-mile D & L Trail Goes from Wilkes-Barre PA (Anthracite Coal Region), through the Lehigh Valley Region, and down the Delaware Canal to Bristol PA.  The D & L Canal was built in stages from 1817-1845 to bring coal from the Anthracite Region to the population centers on the eastern seaboard.

Entrance Arch

Map of Island

This was the last day of the year for Canal Boat Rides

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Canallers would trade coal for services at towns and locks along the canal.

National Canal Museum

Hiked the towpath to Lock House #8 – do you see the Mule?

Mules and Men

Mules and a Woman

Locktender’s House, Lock, and upriver Gate on Lehigh River

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The Lehigh and Susquehanna RR, as well as floods, led to the canal closing in 1942.

Stayed at the Holiday Inn Express in Easton PA.

9/30 M – continued driving through the Delaware and Lehigh NHC to the Delaware Canal State Park office in Upper Black Eddy PA. Picked up information and continued down the Delaware River to New Hope PA.

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The 59-mile Delaware Canal is the only remaining continuously intact canal of the early 1800s towpath canal-building era. Beginning in 1832, mules towed boats loaded with coal and other cargo along the canal, which ran parallel and used the water of the Delaware River.

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Locktender’s House at Lock 11 on the Delaware Canal in New Hope

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Locktender’s House and Museum

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Aquetong Creek

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New Hope Mills – now converted to the Bucks County Playhouse

Parry Mansion Museum, the first of five generations of Parrys moved into the mansion in 1787. The New Hope Historical Society purchased it in 1966.

It is the location of the Indian Logan weathervane (on Ferry Street).

Coryell’s Ferry

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Civil War Cannon located across Ferry Street from the Parry Mansion.

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The Mansion Inn

Former Stables in downtown New Hope

A ten-minute drive south on River Road (Rt-32) took us to Washington Crossing Historic Park.

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Washington Monument and Visitor Center

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December 25, 1776 – Christmas.  Washington crosses the icy Delaware River with 2,400 troops, 18 cannons, supplies, and about 65 horses.

McConkey’s Ferry was on the west side of the Delaware River in PA, and Johnson’s Ferry was on the east side in NJ. This stone marks the general crossing area.

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Map of the march to attack Trenton. The Hessians stationed there were German mercenaries hired by the British. Magnify the photo to read about the battle.

Hibbs House (1829) built 48 years after Washington’s Crossing.

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Durham Boat Barn, this is where boats and cannon are stored for the crossing reenactment that takes place each Christmas Day.

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Monument donated by the people of IN for the Bicentennial of Washington’s Crossing (1976).

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9hr (540mi) drive, from Washington Crossing to Springfield OH, through rain and wind from Hurricane Helene.