8/8/2025 F – met Chad, Drago, and Seamus at the Crown Plaza O’Hare Chicago. Paid for long-term parking for the days we would be away. Drago selfie, start of trip –
8/9/2025 Sa – up at 4:15am, Uber to airport for 6am Alaska Air flight to Seattle (SEA). I had ordered breakfast on the plane, but they did not have a record of the order, so we had to buy some snacks during our flights. Arrived SEA at 8:37am, left 9:55am for Juneau (JNU) and arrived at 11:26am.
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The Frontier Suites Shuttle picked us up and drove us to the hotel in a light rain. Had lunch at the Valley Restaurant next door. Drago and Seamus ate the first of many burgers during our trip. It is owned and run by a Filipino family – every worker was a member of the family. At 2pm I went back to the airport to pick up a “Mystery Car” from Budget Car Rental – it turned out to be a Subaru Crosstrek Hybrid.
When I got back, we went out for a tour of Juneau. Our first stop was the Alaska State Capital. It is the only U.S. State Capital that is not accessible by road.
In 1867 William Henry Seward negotiated a price of 7.2 million for the purchase of Alaska from Russia.
We stopped by St Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church on our way to the waterfront.
We were impressed with the size of the Coral Princess and in fact saw it the next day on Glacier Bay.
There is a Memorial to the USS Juneau on the waterfront walk. It was a Navy ship that was sunk by the Japanese during the Battle of Guadalcanal on November 13, 1942. All but ten of her crew of 700 perished – including the five Sullivan brothers.
That evening we reviewed our plans.
8/10 Su – Had a big breakfast at the Valley Restaurant, then drove 10-min to the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center in the Tongass National Forest. It has been proposed that part of this National Forest become a National Park.
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It was not yet open, so we did the Photo Point Trail (0.33mi) in a light rain.
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Then continued on the Nugget Falls Trail (2-mi rt).
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When we returned to the Visitor Center it was open and provided a panoramic view of Mendenhall Lake, Mendenhall Glacier, and Nugget Falls. Note, the fog/rain/clouds obscure the upper glacier and mountains.
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At 4pm we took the half-hour Alaska Air flight from Juneau to Gustavus, followed by a 10-mi shuttle ride to the Glacier Bay NP Lodge/Visitor Center.
Toured the small NP Vis. Ctr. on the second floor of the Lodge
Then did the Tlingit Trail along Bartlett Cove. The Huna Tlingit still inhabit this area.
Healing Totem Pole
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Traditional Dugout Canoe
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Humpback Whales travel here from Mexico and Hawaii for the summer.
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Tlingit Tribal House and construction of Totems
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Hiked the Forest Trail outside the Lodge ~1-mi round trip (rt).
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Hawk?
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Blackwater Pond Viewing Deck
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Landscaping with Ice
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Dinner at the Lodge, the boys shared a bed, and Chad (top) and I (bottom) a bunk bed. We tested the top to be sure it would support his 265 lbs. and I would not be crushed during the night!
8/11 M – We were up at 5:30am to board the Baranof Wind for our eight-hour tour of Glacier Bay NP.
Raining – donuts for breakfast
We very much enjoyed the tour with our park ranger regularly describing the history, sites, and wildlife. However, the weather detracted from the full visual experience we were hoping for.
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Marble Islands – sea lions, seals, sea otters, birds (e.g., tufted puffin, oyster catchers, marbled murrlets, etc.), and a couple of whales in the distance.
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Sea Otters – this is the largest Sea Otter Colony in the world!
Onboard entertainment – ranger review of the desire for sea otter fur due to its warmth and comfort.
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Mountain Sheep
The highlight of the tour was the Margerie Glacier, almost one mile across.
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Seals on ice island in foreground
Everyone cheered when we saw a section of ice crash (calve) into the water. I wondered, should we be cheering for Global Warming!
Leaving the Margerie Glacier
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The Margerie and most glaciers in the park have retreated significantly since Helen and I were here in July 2011 – see Blog for that month and year.
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We got back to Bartlet Cove at 3:30pm, the boys skipped stones for 20 minutes, and then we boarded the shuttle for the Gustavus airport. We heard our 5:35pm plane to JNU pass overhead. But, it could not land because of weather conditions. I immediately ran over to the Alaska Seaplane office hoping to catch their 6pm flight to JNU. I was able to get all four of us on that plane. So, I ran back to the Alaska Air office and canceled our re-scheduled flight for 5:35pm the next day.
We carried our luggage to the Alaska Seaplane office to wait for the 6pm flight. It also flew over but could not land. They said another plane was on its way. But that flight was canceled as well. So, I booked us on a 6am flight the next morning to JNU, with a 7:45am connecting flight to Skagway, and we returned to the Glacier Bay Lodge. There was one room left with a single Queen bed. A returning German couple also wanted the room. After a long discussion we were able to get the room and the boys slept on the floor. I now had Wi-Fi, so I could cancel our hotel in Juneau but could not cancel the Ferry we were supposed to take the next day from JNU because the office was only open 7am to 3:30pm M-F!
8/12 Tu – Was a day of Persistence, Flexibility and Patience. – Up at 4:30am to catch the 5am shuttle to the Alaska Seaplane office in Gustavus. That flight was cancelled; so, we booked the 10:25am flight. That flight was also cancelled due to weather conditions.
That meant there was no way we could get to Skagway. My phone did not work in Gustavus, so I had to borrow phones to search for information, cancel, and make new reservations. First, I canceled the Alaska Marine Ferry reservation for a weather-related refund. Next, I was able to convince my car rental in Skagway to change my car reservation to Sunday 8/17, the day we were all supposed to land in Chicago.
We decided that Chad and the boys would return to Chicago as scheduled. I, on the other hand, canceled my Delta reservation and made a new reservation to return to Chicago on 8/17 on Alaska Air from Juneau. That way I could make arrangements to fly to Skagway. I then made a reservation on Alaska Air to fly to Juneau on 8/16. In addition, I made reservations to fly from JNU to Skagway in the morning and return from Skagway to JNU in the late afternoon on 8/17 with Alaska Seaplanes.
So, we had to spend most of the day in the Alaska Seaplanes office in Gustavus. Thankfully, they had snack food and drinks that we could add to the beef jerky, potato chips, and oatmeal/raisin cookies I had brought from OH.
Our 2pm flight was put on hold; then two Alaska Seaplanes arrived at 3pm and we were able to takeoff for Juneau at 4pm. This was the first small plane ride for Drago and Seamus on our first partly sunny afternoon in Alaska!
Gustavus Power Plant
Flight over the Chilkat Mountains
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Landing in Juneau – view of Mendenhall Glacier, Mendenhall Lake, and Nugget Falls
Chad ordered an Uber to return to the Juneau waterfront and take the Goldbelt Tram up Mount Roberts
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Nice views of the Gastineau Channel, Cruise Ships, and Juneau
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We did the Totem and Alpine Trails on the slopes of Mount Roberts
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Bald Eagle Wingspan
Celebratory dinner at The Hangar on the Wharf Restaurant as the Cruise Ship “Anthem of the Seas” left port
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8/13 W – Up at 5:15am, 6am Shuttle to airport to catch 7:34am Alaska Air JNU to ANC flight – flight canceled (Fog)! Re-booked for later in the morning – flight canceled (Fog/Rain)! Re-booked for Alaska Air leaving at 2pm, flying to Yakutat, then to Cordova, and then to Anchorage. It was clear on much of the route but was cloudy when we arrived at 5pm.
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I picked up our Nissan Sentra from Avis, then pulled out of the garage into rain. Our first stop was Earthquake Park; it commemorates the 1964 earthquake that devastated Southcentral Alaska.
Our next stop was Resolution Point and the Captain Cook monument overlooking the Knik Arm of the Cook Inlet.
We continued on to the Alaskan RR Depot –
Then walked up to the Alaska 49th State Monument –
It was then a short drive to the Salmon Viewing Area on Ship Creek.
When we arrived at the Fairfield Inn & Suites to check in, they refused to give us the room because the reservation was in Helen’s name using her reward points, and she was not there! I argued that the room was book with her reward points AND my money, which I had paid by credit card. That was still not acceptable. Finally, I produced Helen’s passport for the Manager, and they allowed us to take the room.
Went to the Bear Paw Bar & Grill for Fish & Chips for the Big Boys and Burgers for the Little Boys.
8/14 Th – 6am breakfast at the Fairfield Inn and then started driving in the rain to Talkeetna. We arrived about 10am and were told that our Flightseeing Grand Denali NP Glacier Landing Flight was canceled due to weather. We then stopped by the Denali Climbing Cemetery on our way back to Talkeetna and visited the memorial for those who have died attempting to climb Denali (Mount McKinley).
Six climbers had already died on the mountain when our group started our attempt in 1995.
We then visited the Denali NP Climbing Visitor Center where you register to climb the mountain. The Ranger taught Drago and Seamus how to tie a couple of knots.
On the way back to Rt-3, we stopped for Birch Ice Cream at the Kahiltna Birchworks
We now implemented Plan B – driving into Denali NP. We first stopped at Denali Viewpoint South on Rt-3.
The first photo is what we saw and the second is the same view on a good day!
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We also did the short hike to a viewpoint looking across the Chulitna River toward the Ruth Glacier and the “Greatest Gorge.” The gorge is about 9,000ft deep, deeper than the Grand Canyon and perhaps the deepest gorge in the world, but it is at least half full of ice!
Had lunch at the Denali Doghouse in Denali Nation AK, got gas, and then entered Denali NP.
Our first stop was the Visitor Center off Rt-3
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Building a Moose
Our first stop on the Park Road was the Mountain Vista picnic area. This was once a tourist camp for visiting the park.
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We then continued in the rain, as far as we could by car, to the Savage River (15mi) – saw a Moose along the way
When you reach the Savage River, you must take a bus to proceed further into the park.
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We did the 2-mile Savage River Loop Trail in a light rain.
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Explorer Seamus
Nice hike and interesting rocks along the way –
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Bridge is the half-way point on the Savage River Trail
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Rain increased on the way back
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On the way to Fairbanks, we stopped at the Fly Denali office in Healy to see if they would have a Denali Glacier Landing flight on the morning of 8/16, the day we were to return to Anchorage for our flights home. The answer was yes, weather permitting (it was raining)! We signed up, thinking the probability was low. The cost was double our previous reservation in Talkeetna, so part of me was hoping we would again be “rained out.”
Ate at a fast-food dinner in Fairbanks, bought lunch items at a Fred Meyer store, then moved into our VRBO duplex, home for the next two nights. I was now sleeping regularly with Drago and Seamus with Chad.
8/15 F – had an early breakfast at the A W Restaurant in Fairbanks, so we could be at the BLM office when it opened at 7:45am. This map shows our seven stops for the day. Our main objective was to see a herd of caribou in the Steese National Conservation Area (NCA).
2025 is the 25th year anniversary of the National Conservation Lands Program.
Our first stop was the Trans-Alaska Pipeline System (TAPS).
TAPS spans about 800-miles, from Prudhoe Bay and feeder pipelines on the North Slope to Valdez AK, where it is picked-up and transported by ships.
Our next stop was the Davidson Ditch. It is a 90-mile system of inverted siphons and ditches (1929) that carries water from the Chantanika River to Fairbanks to power gold mining operations.
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As we gained altitude on the Steese Highway, we came upon a female caribou (they have horns) and calf along the road. Drago took this photo, and Chad did a good video of them moving along the road and up into the forest.
Our third stop was at the Twelvemile Summit Wayside. The first photo indicates the weather conditions – cold (mid 40s), windy, cloudy/foggy, and raining.
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We all “layered up” for our ~1+ mile hike on the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail to the Steese NCA North Unit.
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In the Clouds
Caribou Mirage
First part of trail – boardwalk
Second part of trail – tundra
Reaching the Steese NCA North Unit
Steese Highway
Upper Birch Creek Wayside in the Steese NCA South Unit.
Birch Creek – National Wild River
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Fun skipping stones
Trunk lunch after Drago drove a car for the first time – across the parking lot!
Next stop and furthest point we traveled on the Steese Highway – the tundra of the Eagle Summit Wayside. As you can see, we were now back in the clouds.
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We did a couple of short hikes into the clouds – including the east end of the Pinnell Mountain NST.
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The clouds lifted a bit as we headed down the trail. It was an opportunity to take photos of tundra wildflowers.
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We were now able to see the road continuing toward its end in Circle AK.
Caribou bones and footprint found nearby –
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As we drove back toward Fairbanks, we made a stop in the White Mountains National Recreation Area.
There was some daylight left, so we headed downtown to The Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitors Center and a sculpture titled – “A Hand Up.”
We then walked through the park areas along the Chena River.
Golden Heart Plaza
Lend Lease Monument – commemorating our support of Russia during World War II. Our women pilots would fly planes to MT, our men pilots would fly them to Fairbanks where Russian pilots would pick them up, fly across the Bearing Sea, and eventually to the Eastern Front where the Russians were fighting the Germans.
It was a short drive to Creamer’s Field and the Migratory Waterfowl Refuge where we saw Sandhill Cranes and a number of other birds.
Ate dinner back at the A W Restaurant, a local restaurant, not the Root Beer chain. Then we returned to our VRBO duplex and packed for our early morning trip back to Anchorage for our flight home.
8/16 Sat – up at 4:30am to pack, donuts and juice for breakfast, then drove 2hrs to Healy AK to see if our Denali Glacier Flight was a go. It was raining when we arrived but the weather report from Denali indicated we could do the flight. So, plans were reviewed, we put on our glacier booties and took off in a slight drizzle.
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Our plane flew Southwest over the Alaskan Range
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Reaching higher elevations
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Chad and I were on the left side of the plane and Drago was on the right side, so we were getting different views going to and returning from our glacier landing.
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Beautiful alpine scenery
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Note landing location
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View of Denali (Mount McKinley)
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Icefall
Circling for landing
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Note the lenticular clouds indicating high winds on the mountain
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Approaching landing on the Ruth Glacier
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Landing
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On finger of Ruth Glacier
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Denali above Chad’s Right Shoulder. It was calm, clear, quiet, comfortable, and Beautiful!
Interesting Story – Don Sheldon was a bush pilot who started the first glacier landings on Denali. He owned and ran the Talkeetna Air Service. In 1953, before Denali NP existed, he used the Homestead Act to acquire 5 acres on the mountain and proceeded to build a “retreat” on rocky terrain just above the Ruth Glacier. He and his family improved the facilities, and it is now known as the Sheldon Chalet. The rental cost starts at $32,000/night, with a three-night minimum stay. A specific package, the Ultimate Mountain Adventure, is priced at $57,000 per person for a 4-day, 3-night stay, which includes transportation to and from Anchorage, and is available for 2026!
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The following photos were taken while returning to the Healy airport –
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Glacier detail
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Denali
We had some air turbulence on the return flight
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Follow the Glacier
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The Home Stretch
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This Denali Glacier Landing Flight was the Highpoint of our Alaska Trip!
See Blog for September 2020 to view photos taken by Peter and Kate during their flight from Talkeetna and landing on the Kahiltna Glacier on the south side of Denali.
Filled the gas tank, then Chad drove 5hrs to the Anchorage Airport as we ate snacks in the car. Arrived about 4pm and Chad, Drago, and Seamus checked in for their 5:15pm flight to SEA, followed by an11:55pm flight to MPL, a 7am flight to ORD (Chicago O’Hare), a Crown Plaza hotel shuttle to their car, and a drive home to Milwaukee.
Meanwhile, I gassed-up the rental car, returned it, and checked in for my newly booked 7:48pm Alaska Air flight to Juneau. I was on a mission to do a segment of the Chilkoot National Historic Trail outside of Skagway AK. There are a total of 27 National Scenic and Historic Trails. After doing a hike on the Chilkoot Trail, I would be able to state that I had experienced all of them.
I took the Frontier Suites Shuttle to the hotel and checked in for the night.
8/17 Sun – I was up at 5:30am to catch the 6am shuttle to the airport for my 7:45am flight with Alaska Seaplanes to Skagway. There was a weather cancelation at 8am and I rebooked for an 11am flight. That flight was canceled. So, I tried to book the 3pm flight but it was full. That left me with the last possible flight to Skagway at 6:30pm. Leaving Juneau –
Since I had planned to return to Juneau today at 5pm to catch Alaska Air flights to Chicago, I had to cancel Alaska Seaplanes and Alaska Air reservations. In addition, I had to book an Alaska Seaplanes flight to Juneau the following afternoon, and re-book my flights to Anchorage and Chicago on Alaska Air. Nothing accomplished today, except getting to Skagway!
I arrived in Skagway at 7:30pm and had to find a place to stay. As I started to walk into town, I met John who was trying to get to Canada to meet his hunting guide (Air Canada was on strike). He and his brother own a roofing company in Lubbock TX. He had recently made a reservation at the Skagway Inn and was told there was one room left. He called and confirmed the reservation for me. We then walked about a half mile to the hotel carrying our backpacks and dragging our bags through a light rain.
I was assigned the “Essie Room,” the smallest room in the former brothel. It was clean, comfortable, and decorated with vintage items. The bed just about filled the room with the restroom down the hall. John and I met in the restaurant for dinner right before they closed. My Shrimp Caesar Salad was reasonably priced and excellent.
8/18 Mon – I went for breakfast when it opened at 7am and was surprised to have a served full breakfast as part of the room cost of $139.32; omelet, hashbrowns, fruit, juice, and coffee – I Highly Recommend the Historic Skagway Inn!
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I hired a taxi to drive me to the Historic Dyea Townsite, which was/is the start of the Chilkoot National Historic Trail. He picked me up at 8am for the 10-mile drive, in a light rain, to the townsite.
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In 1895, Dyea was a small Tlingit village and fishing camp. It was also the staging area for Native trade to and from the interior over the Chilkoot Pass. That all changed in 1896 when gold was discovered in the Klondike area outside of Dawson City, Yukon Territory, Canada. That prompted the 1896-1898 Klondike Gold Rush when Dyea grew to 5,000-8,000 people. Almost as quickly as it rose, the Boomtown fell to 3 inhabitants by 1903 when the railroad was completed from Skagway through the White Pass to Whitehorse Canada.
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“Glacial Rebound,” the result of “Ground Rebound,” has resulted in the land here rising 7-feet since 1890, affecting access to the Taiya River, Taiya Inlet, and Pacific Ocean.
It is about a 0.5-mile walk to the Dyea Cemetery, which is also called the “Slide Cemetery” because it is the resting place of about seventy “stampeders” who failed to head the warnings and died in a series of snow slides (avalanches) across the Chilkoot Trail on Palm Sunday, April 3, 1898.
It is another 0.5 mile walk to the start of the Chilkoot National Historic Trail – a 33-mile international trail that starts at Dyea and ends at Bennett, BC, Canada. There are nine campgrounds along the trail, which has an elevation gain of about 3500 feet. The Chilkoot Pass is roughly the halfway point and is the international border between the U.S. and Canada.
The first part of the trail follows the Taiya River.
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A permit is required from the Chilkoot Trail Center (NPS) in Skagway for overnight stays on the trail.
The trail has been called the “World’s Longest Museum” because of artifacts left along the trail. The trail has gone from a Tlingit trade route, to a gold rush highway, to a recreational trail.
I did a mile hike, as I had to get back to catch my plane to Juneau.
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Registration Box –
Returning to trailhead
“Golden Stairs” – top part of the Chilkoot Trail to Chilkoot Pass (1898).
I went straight to the airport to check on my noon flight – it was canceled due to weather! I had a choice. I could re-book for 4pm and risk that flight being canceled and having to spend one or more night(s) in Skagway, or I could take the Alaska Marine ferry at 2:15pm, requiring me to cancel my Alaska Air flight home that night and re-booking the flight for the following day. In addition, I would have to get a hotel in Juneau for this evening. I opted for the latter, since there was no guarantee that I could fly to Juneau the next day. So, I canceled my flight to Juneau and flight to Chicago, booked the ferry to Juneau, booked a hotel in Juneau, and booked another flight to Chicago. This has been the story of the entire trip – changes due to Bad Weather!
I now had 1.5-hours before boarding the ferry. I started by going to the Klondike Gold Rush NHP Visitor Center
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“Steepest Climb”
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The NHP opened the Mascot Saloon Museum (1898) sometime after my 2011 visit.
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I treated myself to a gourmet lunch of Halibut Puff Pastry, Fish Chowder, Salad, and Beer at Olivia’s Bistro in the Historic Skagway Inn, then headed for the ferry.
Alaska Marine Vehicle (Ferry) “MV Columbia” arriving in Skagway (late)
Sailing the Taiya Inlet and enjoying a salmon dinner. I discovered that state employees working on ferries cannot accept tips.
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The Ferry left Skagway late, arrived in and left Haines late, and arrived in Juneau at 11:30pm, about two hours late. The hotel shuttle was no longer running. So, I hitched a ride in a van to the airport and then walked a half mile to the Frontier Suites hotel – this was my fourth night in Juneau.
The Aurora Borealis Season is September to April. However, NOAA had reported activity last night and stated that tonight the conditions would be good. So, I went out from 12:30am to 2am looking for the Northern Lights. Alas, I could not find a dark/clear place to look north. I only saw a light glow above the trees. However, I did have some excitement as I returned to the motel. As I arrived, I heard three gunshots close by and thought I may have been the target. I ran into the lobby. The desk clerk had also heard the shots. He locked down the hotel and called the police. In the end, we thought the shots came from a homeless camp across the highway. Goodnight Tom.
8/19 Tu – Day of waiting and best weather day of trip. I had breakfast at the Valley restaurant and lunch at the Juneau airport. Took an Alaska Air flight to Anchorage at 6pm and then a “red-eye” flight to Chicago arriving 8/20 W at 5:40am. Took the Crown Plaza shuttle to the hotel and then drove home arriving at 5pm.
FYI – Helen and I visited Juneau, climbed Mt Roberts, paddled Mendenhall Lake, did the boat tour of Glacier Bay NP, ferried to/from Skagway, and visited the Klondike Goldrush National Historical Park in July 2011 – see Blog for additional photos and commentary.
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