Archive for January, 2008

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Paintings, Elephants, etc.

January 20, 2008
 Helen – Last night we went to Ranjan’s home for dinner and met a lovely young lady, Sandy.  We had a typical meal with flour hoppers (last time we had rice hoppers) with two kinds of shrimp sides, a white (not so spicy) lentil curry, potatoes and grated coconut with spices.  Once again all the foods were placed on our dishes and we mixed and ate with our fingers.  Fresh pineapple, banana, and mango slices were the perfect dessert.  We also made plans to meet him this morning.
Ranjan picked us up at 7:30am to go to the Kala Pola or Arts/Crafts Show across from the Art Museum.  The show was schedule to start at 10am but Ranjan wanted to get there early so he had his pick of the paintings – he owns a framing and painting shop.  The couple of things that really caught my eye were the old door panels, spice boxes, and other old wooden pieces painted with old temple art.  They were running several hundred dollars for the larger pieces; there was also a dealer who had root art.  He took tree roots and made huge sculptures with them.  Another dealer made ornamental lamps out of various leaves that looked like Japanese lanterns.  I bought two pieces from the same dealer.  We noticed him as soon as we got there and at the end bargained him down to about $70 for a large elephant and much smaller lion fish.  I also bought three smaller watercolors of Kandy drummers.
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There were a lot of paintings on the street (no fee) when we arrived.  When we left at 9:45 the street and median were filled and the area being used inside (stalls with fee) Viharamaha Devi Park was almost full as well.  Ranjan has suggested that I work with him and his daughter Petal in Springfield to sell Sri Lankan art on the internet.
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Helen – Passing Sights – Dogs: first: there are stray dogs everywhere.  They are scraggly, thin, molten furred and really sad sights to behold.  They look hungry as they dig through the garbage heaps along the side of the roads and their eyes beckon for some friendly hand.  I can’t look them in the eye without feeling so very sad.  They are multicolored, multi-mixed, and of medium size.  The one thing you notice so often is that a hind leg is crippled…those crazy cars must hit them and bounce them off the street if they don’t get out of the way fast enough – yet, they go on, day after day.

Hair:  it’s beautiful, long and black.  All ages have long hair, and I mean long…past the waist, past the fanny, past the knees.  It is worn in buns, pony tails, braids (1 and 2) and flowing.  I love to look at the different hair styles; their hair is so thick and full, I am envious.

Mason: walking to the Internet Café yesterday we noticed a mason working on a wall.  He was adding the top molding design.  Only part of it was complete so we watched a while hoping that he was going to use the form for the mold so we could see how he did it.  He continued to build up the area measuring with a stick for leveling and depth.  We left and when we returned I saw him making the mold not with a form but with the same leveling stick.  The mold had a concave center and a protruding top with several different steps which were repeated on the bottom as well.  He was amazing; it was so uniform you would swear that he used a form to sculpture the design.

Mowers: let’s talk about cutting the grass!!  No one has much of a lawn to begin with, and then the grass is more like our low creeping crabgrass with thick blades.  While in the Fulbright office one day we kept hearing this raking sound…it was a push roller mower with a squeaky wheel.  He kept going over the same spot several times to be sure it was uniformly cut.  No rows for them.  Then later we passed a large playing field.  Now this is interesting!!  Men were lined up one behind the other and a little to the side of the person in front.  They were all swinging the old fashioned weed whacker…remember the one which had a stick handle and a metal serrated blade at the end?  That’s the one and I bet they don’t work by the hour!!

Squirrels: these are a hybrid of our squirrel and chipmunk.  The body is slightly larger than our chipmunk but has the same coloring…the tail is longer and fluffy like our squirrels.  They have lots of them.

Horses: have only seen a few horses and no donkeys.  There were a lot of donkeys in Egypt so we expected to see them here as well.  The three horses that we did see were more like big ponies and they were tied up to graze near a play area.  Maybe the kids get to ride them?  There were two pure white ones and one solid brown.  I don’t think I would like riding them.

Street Lights: we saw a man riding on a bicycle holding a long pole with a hook on the end.  Then we saw him again around the block using the pole to shut off the electric street lights one at a time.  I wonder if he repeats the route at evening???

Mailman: also on a bike in his uniform with a basket in front and also carrying a bag in front of his body.  The basket didn’t look too organized and his hands were full so I don’t see how he managed to ride his bike with all the traffic.  We noticed him in the section of Colombo called Crow Island; it is in the capital but in one of the outer sections.  This is a picture of our mailman.

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Ice Cream Man: on another old rickety bike, with cones in a box secured in the front basket, and the ice cream in a large box with dry ice balanced on the back.  He used a hand horn with bulb (like a clown) to let people know he’s there.

Kitchen: I watched Irene cook this morning.  The work table is covered with tin/aluminum which is really better than wood as far as cleaning it for germs, though I sometimes wonder about the cleanliness because there are so many flies on and around the food during preparation.  She uses these neat clay pots for cooking most of the curries.  They are in the shape of bowls with a smaller bottom and larger rim.  They are seasoned and black now and nothing seems to stick.  Everything has curry powder, tumeric, chilies powder and salt.  I don’t see her using pepper, which is just as well.  On the table is an old fashion coconut grater.  It works like a meat grinder handle with a serrated six blade thing on the end.  You cut the coconut in half and then hold it so the blade cuts the coconut meat from inside the shell.  They do several things with this coconut.  First they make coconut milk by adding water and putting it in the blender. Then you strain it and this is the first milk.  The second milk is made from the squeezed coconut by adding more water and blending it again. You use the first milk for early cooking and the second thicker milk for flavoring.  Sure is easier to buy it in the can!!  Irene has most of the modern conveniences but prefers the old way in preparing foods.  Today she was preparing calamari curry; this morning she cooked some purple roots which they dug up from the yard yesterday.  She just boiled it and gave it to me for breakfast…not bad, tasted like potatoes.  My stomach is still adjusting to the new food preparations.

Irene never ceases to surprise me in her kitchen duties.  Just as I left her to write in the diary she began to wash the floor.  She dumped a large pan of water on the floor and then used a squeegee to push/pull it out the back door.  The floor is tile and it really worked pretty well.  The squeegee was pretty long and she just pulled and pushed it around the stove, sink, and cabinets.  Ok, so there is now some mud outside that door that we used to come into the kitchen but I guess it will dry pretty quickly.

Tom – Chitra and her husband Sepah picked us up at 10:45 for a swim at the Sinhalese Sport Club on Maitland Ave.  We first picked up their son from his computer class.  He is about 16 and has represented Sri Lanka in junior tennis competition in South Asia.  We were in the pool for about an hour, swam a little and Helen helped Chitra with her stroke and breathing.  She could have a lot of business teaching swimming here!  Afterward they treated us to lunch at the club.  The drink of choice was Bitter Lime and the food a Lumprye.  A Dutch dish consisting of rice, chicken curry, mint curry, beef curry, fish ball and a boiled egg all wrapped in banana leaves.  The dessert was also a Dutch sweet similar in texture to bread pudding but was made with coconut milk and called Watalappam.  Both were excellent!

In the afternoon I took a Tuk-Tuk to the Fulbright office to pick up a fan, iron, cork screw, plastic clothes pins, wipes, itch ointment, maps, hand held fan and a small backpack that the Fulbrighters from Galle had left for us.  As usual, when I waved down the Tuk-Tuk driver I verbally gave him the address of the office.  OK, it’s a given he probably didn’t understand a word I said.  So, I carry slips of paper that have my common destinations written in both English and Sinhalese.  I give it to him.  Does he know how to get there?  Of course!  After some haggling we agree on a price, usually half of what he first asked for, and off we go about a half mile in the wrong direction.  I stop him and show him on my map where I want to go.  OK, he knows the way.  After going another half mile out of the way, I stop him again and start to give him hand signal directions as we drive (I really need to learn some basic Sinhalese).   We arrive at the destination and he wants twice the amount of money that we agreed on because he had to drive so far out of the way – go figure!

Walked to St Theresa for 6:30 mass this evening, it is only about half a mile from our guesthouse.  After we returned I was in our bedroom when Irene walked in followed by Bejet.  She was carrying a small long handled frying pan filled with glowing coconut shells.  Bejet would then pour some powder from a jar onto the coals creating a lot of smoke.  The powder was sanbrane (sp) and acquired from a Buddhist Pharmacy.  When I asked why they were filling the house with smoke, I was given three reasons: (1) mosquitoes (2) incense for the Lord Buddha, and (3) to protect the house from the evil eye.

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Sightseeing

January 19, 2008

Tom – Did an early morning 1.5 hour walk through the city and took pictures of Town Hall, a mosque, and an interesting building.

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I spent the morning getting organized and selecting a rental car.  It has been a difficult and time consuming task.  I am to pick it up on Monday and pay cash for the first month along with a $250 deposit. 

 

This evening we are having a Sri Lankan meal at Ranjan’s, so I rode (Tuk-Tuk) with Helen to the store to buy him some flowers.  I think it will take a little bit longer before she feels comfortable going somewhere by herself.

 

Ranjan picked us up at 7:45pm.  We then picked up his friend Sandy (works for Uni-Lever?) and went to his house.  We ate with our fingers and had a good time!

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A Productive Day

January 18, 2008

Helen – This was a productive day!!  Well, almost !!  We had a 10:00 appointment with the former Secretary to the Minister of Education and Higher Education (Ari) and also a member of the Fulbright Commission.  He had just stepped down from his Ministry position so we were going to meet him at his home.  The Fulbright driver picked us up at 9:20 and not knowing that he recently resigned and took us to the Ministry of Education.  Thank heavens we left early because we corrected him, he double checked and said ok we still have time.  He was unfamiliar with the section of town where we were going and we finally arrived at 11:30 with Tom giving him directions from the map.  We even called the Fulbright office but the man who set up the appointment was in India for 5 days so they couldn’t help us.  Anyway, he had also invited the Director of Education (Physical Education and Sport) and his assistant.  The meeting lasted two hours with a light lunch and it was decided that Tom would help them review the structure of organizing a national PE Association and that he and I would present a work shop sometime in April before we leave.  The ride home was 25 minutes!!!

 

Back in the Fulbright office Tom received an email in the afternoon inviting him to attend and give a presentation at a Fulbright conference in Jaipur, India (northern India) in mid-March.  The commission will cover Tom’s expenses but we will have to pay for me.  Can life get any more confusing or interesting???  The four page registration form and abstract was due on the 22nd.  Problem – the next two days were the weekend and Monday and Tuesday were holidays.  That meant that if he was going to go, he had to do it immediately!  It took him three hours on the ancient computer but he got it done!  It was good to get back to the house, relax watch the Australian Open tennis tournament in Melbourne and go to bed early. 

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Driver’s License and Market Day

January 17, 2008

Tom – I arranged for a car rental firm to pick me up to go look at some of their cars.  Got the specifics and then talked them into giving me a car and driver to go to AAA to get a Sri Lankan license.  I was able to do this because I had already gotten an international driver’s license in Springfield.  The driver walked with me through the process and then dropped me off at the Fulbright office.

 

A couple of hours later I went to an ATM, the embassy, internet café (search for rental cars), bookstore (bought a Sinhalla Phrasebook) and then headed back home very tired.

 

Market Day  Helen – I went to the local market with Ruki and the chauffeur (I really didn’t think he drove anymore!!).  She said she only uses him for close errands.  This was a real experience.  The stalls were all open with venders selling fresh green vegetables, fruits, rice, beans, lentils, dried fish and spices.  I couldn’t recognize half the things.  Flies were everywhere and on everything.  There was also a small super market and a fish store.  I watched as they cleaned fish, squid, and other delicacies.  The next time I went I even had them open up a king coconut for me…you drink the liquid inside with a straw and then he cuts it open for you, cutting a chip from the side which you use as a spoon, you scrap the soft creamy coconut meat inside and eat it.  Don’t think it will be one of my favorites but it was fun to experience.  Ruki kept saying “don’t let the scoopy touch your mouth!!”  Everyone looks at me because I am the only foreigner there…they smile, I smile.  I really like to go.  There is also a very nice temple across the street with a big Buddha inside and lions guarding the gate.

 

Thursday I stayed home after the market, had lunch with Ruki, did some laundry and then relaxed until Tom returned from the Embassy, Fulbright, and errands.  He had a very busy day and was glad not to have me with him.  We finally received confirmation that we will be going to Matara on this coming Wednesday; and then life as normal will begin.

 

 At 6:30 we had a taxi pick us up to have dinner with Traci (Fulbrighter in Management Information Systems from U of Oklahoma), husband Mano and daughter Charia (10).  The taxi arrived on time but he didn’t have working headlights…duh!!!  So, we sent him back to get another taxi and ended up being a little late.  One reason for going to their apartment was to use their cable internet connection, something we have not had access to since our room in Cairo.   Nothing is easy and while Tom was working to set up the diary list I played cards with Charia.

 

We walked to a Chinese restaurant about 4 blocks from their house.  We began with a delicious soup and then shared five different entrees.  After returning to the house, Tom was ready to send the first section of the Sri Lankan diary…opps!  He lost it!!  I didn’t say anything but thought I am not going to rewrite that again!!  Lucky for us Tracy helped him retrieve it after about 15 minutes and then he had to send it in three installments because it would only recognize one page of names at a time. 

 

By now it was pretty late and we needed to get home…they called a taxi for us but it took more than ½ hr to come.  The ride there only took about 10 minutes but home was almost an hour because he didn’t know where he was going and he kept saying this road is closed (there are a lot of roads closed for security) or this is a one way street…we must have gone around the same circle three times.  Tom even showed him the map but he kept driving in circles.  Finally we got home after 11 and woke up Ruki (the maid didn’t get up) to let us in.  We were only able to send the diary – no personal communications.  Don’t know if we will ever be able to upload pictures because the connections are so slow.

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War and Wedding

January 16, 2008

Tom – The big news today was that 27 people were killed and 63 injured when a bus was blown up at 7:30 this morning; an additional 5 were shot trying to escape the bus.  This makes the description of our day seem rather unimportant.  Had meetings at the Fulbright, computer work, shops, US Embassy and back to the guesthouse.

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Helen – The Fulbright computers drive me nuts!!!  I spent over an hour still trying to get our family and diary lists in order so we can send the diary from my email.  Ate lunch at one of the little food courts, it seems we feel safe ordering fried egg rolls though each one is different.

We looked again for a translation dictionary in several stores to no avail, also still looking for adapters, and finally walked over to the embassy to do a little shopping; peanut butter and raspberry jam, some rum for our house lady, some crackers, beer for Rohana, and a few other things.  We were supposed to have dinner with Rohana but he got the flu and had to postpone.

We took a Tuk-Tuk to the waterfront to walk; we were too late for the sunset but it was still enjoyable.  There were venders selling cooked crabs, shrimp, and some other things.  We were tempted but decided it wasn’t worth it.  Afterwards we went into the Galle Face Hotel to look around; while we were there we saw a wedding procession.  First the dancers and drummers danced and played taking the families into the reception hall; then they repeated the ritual for the bride.  She was lovely.  Tom took a short video of it.  We decided to have a small meal at the German Restaurant across the street.  Didn’t really taste too German to me but Tom enjoyed his soup and I my vegetable casserole with mustard sauce.    

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Tamal Thai Pongal Day

January 15, 2008

Tom – It is a Hindu harvest festival honoring the Sun God.  It’s a holiday and many people have taken a four day weekend.  Helen and I walked for about an hour this morning and then she went to the market with Ruki and I moved all our things to a downstairs bedroom where we will stay whenever we are in Colombo.  It is more basic, more bugs but cheaper. 

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For me most of the day was spent on the computer.  Helen read and worked some on the computer as well.  She is complaining a lot and says she can’t wait till we get to Matara and are settled.  I think the truth of the matter is we will never be settled here.  We have good accommodations in Colombo.  If we have something half as good in Matara, I will be happy.

Helen – It was a holiday so traffic was minimal and so nice for a change.  I have finally returned to walking in the morning and exploring the area around our guesthouse.  The first day I walked alone but the next two days Tom joined me.  The first day I walked to the cultural center where we saw the opera and wanted to walk around.  So, I asked the guard at the gate if I could and I thought he waved me in.  After going around several times and starting to leave, I was stopped by a big car and the gentleman called me over…said no walking here.  I explained that I had asked permission and he said he was the director and I had to leave.  Oh well, I had done it and won’t return.

 

Ranjan picked us up at 7:45 for dinner at an Indian restaurant called the Mango Tree.  It is reported to be the best in town.  He ordered for us, some appetizers first which were a flakey little round bread which we broke and dipped into a mint or tumeric sauce, sort of like salsa and chips at home.  Then the main course was grilled chicken, spinach and cottage cheese, and a shrimp curry sauce.  They were served with bread very similar to a tortilla.  The waiter served each onto our plates then we broke off the bread with our hands and dipped into the sauces and ate.  No utensils, it was fun.  Afterwards they brought warm water with lime to wash our hands.  Most people eat with their hands; they just mix the food and rice together and use their fingers to scoop and push it in their mouth with their thumb.  It gets messy at times, especially when they talk with their mouths full.

 

After dinner Ranjan took us to the Cinnamon Hotel which was totally unbelievable.  I have never seen anything so opulent.  It was elegant beyond belief.  Your car was parked by valet under a very large canopy and the hotel was ablaze with lights.  The lobby was huge with many small groupings of tables and chairs.  In the center was a raised platform with a band that was quite good playing our music from Abba to Tom Jones.  We did a little tour walking outside to a beautiful lower level with a pond that was aglow in lights.  Tables with candles and a bar surrounded parts of the pond that had big coy fish swimming and many turtles.  We returned to the lobby to listen to the band and sip hot cocoa while sampling some very tasty desserts.  A room at the hotel was $85, at home it would have been more like $300.

 

That was the high for the day, now the low.  Yesterday we moved to the lower level of the same house because now our rent went from $35 to $20 per day (we are on a fixed income!).  The bedroom is comfortable though the mattress not as good.  The bathroom is large with an older tub and shower.  In the afternoon we thought it was adequate but that night when we were getting ready for bed…Ugh!!  Huge, I mean huge, cockroaches at least three inches long were on the wall and sink.  I called Tom to come and get them.  I am not a good aim with a shoe and broke a window in Iran that way trying to get those buggers.  It was a little unsettling but we went to sleep making sure the bathroom door was closed tight.

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Let’s Keep Walking

January 14, 2008

Tom – Helen got up at 6 for an early morning walk.  She said it felt good and we agreed that I should join her and we should try to do it each day.  The pictures below are of the Independence Memorial where there are a lot of walkers/joggers/excercisers early each morning – that will be one of the places where we will walk.  After breakfast we went to the Fulbright to work on email…always frustrating.  We then went searching for a way to get an internet connection through our cell phone.  It can be done where there is a signal but it appears to be too expensive at this point.  We ate some chicken rolls and egg rolls (half an egg with a few veggies) on the street for lunch.  We are afraid to eat anything that is not cooked.  Bought some plug adapters and a Sri Lankan road map and then spent an hour in an Internet Café because the Fulbright computer does not even have a working USB port.       

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Sailboat Races at the Yacht Club

January 13, 2008

Helen – We had a church date with Ranjan.  He picked us up at 8:15 for Mass at St. Theresa.  It was a lovely church with stained glass windows and a fan blowing at every pew.  Fresh flowers were at the alter and the people all singing as we entered.  The priest was Indian (they say that they are better) with a wonderful sermon.  There was a projection screen for the liturgy so we could follow and wonderful simple songs to harmonious melodies.  Communion was received in the mouth like the old days.  We really enjoyed it.

After church we went to Ranjan’s home for breakfast.  It included string hoppers, but this time they were oval shaped and filled with sweet coconut and a molded rice which was inverted onto a plate and cut into squares.  It was seasoned with ginger and other spices and served with shaved brown sugar.  Mmmmmmm.  The hot tea steamed with ginger and tasted exotic.

Ranjan’s home and gardens were breathtaking.  He is truly an artist in heart and soul.  The gardens were well manicured with many different kinds of flowers, trees, and bushes.  He not only designed it himself but has planted and cared for it himself as a therapy.  Unique birdbaths were scattered around and made out of interesting stone and concrete structures, each filled with water and different flowers floating in them (jasmine, lilies, etc.).  Some of the stone structures were really big and heavy and he was telling us how he moved them from their original sites to his yard…it was neither easy nor cheap!!

His home also reflected his artistic talent.  He had designed the house which had a mixture of modern and old at the same time.  The art work was varied but each piece was illuminated with a small spot light.  Again the living room and dining room were together with the end walls painted a pale gold while the side walls were white.  One wall had a long low barred window with really neat ironwork.  The far end wall where the dining area was had an open recessed stairway to the second floor.  In the recessed area was a fountain and water plants.  I could definitely move right in!!

Now it was time to go to the yacht club.  It was about 45 minutes away.  The last 20 minutes were really rough with narrow rutted dirt roads loaded with people, pets, and cars going in both directions.  We took a change of clothes since we were still dressed for church.  Ayomi and Mohan met us as we arrived and Mohan was rushing us because the race was to start in 15 minutes.

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I had planned on visiting with Ayomi and the other ladies at the club while the men raced.  However, it seemed that all the teams were already paired and if Tom was to sail, I had to be his partner.  Now let’s look at this picture again!!  We have never raced together and we have never sailed this kind of boat before.  It was called a GP and was quite different than the Lasers we are used to sailing – larger, deeper, wooden, and with a jib sail.  Tom and I aren’t really good paired together for any kind of competition.

 

People were already getting ready for the race so we didn’t get much time to look around.  The building was an open pavilion with a covered roof shaped like the capital letter I.  The bottom of the I was the bar, the middle section had tables and chairs where you could have small and large groupings, then the top of the I was where the signal bell was located and a couple of swings for looking over the lake.

 

There was a large chalk board by the bell describing the racing course.  It was not just a matter of going around two or three buoys in a circular path…no, it was a zig-zag course around 7-9 buoys; I can’t remember the exact number because we never finished an entire course.  It was the best 2 out of 3 races.  The boats were rigged and launched by the helpers so all you had to do was climb in and go.  First I had to learn how to use the cleats to move the jib; Tom meanwhile was adjusting to the mainsail and rudder.  The lines were different as was the centerboard.  It was a lot to learn, thank heavens that there was little wind.  We sailed out to the starting line getting used to the boat; everyone was already vying for a good spot and we are trying to stay out of their way.  The first signal bell lets you know that it is 5 minutes to start and people begin to get a little pushy.  These people are an international sailing group; many British, Scandinavians, and locals who studied abroad.  We let everyone go ahead of us and figured we were just out there to have a good time (even with all my complaining) and tried to follow the boats through the course because we couldn’t remember the route even though we wrote it down on a piece of paper.

 

All the buoys look the same and before you know it we are not following anymore but rather crossing through their course.  Oh well, it can’t get much worse, but it does.  The first race is over and they are not going to wait for us to finish (as if we could), so we sail over to reposition for the next race.  The wind is now picking up and the sky is filled with black clouds.  A few raindrops have already fallen but we are feeling better this time and as the wind picks up we are hiking over the side and Tom promises me he will not let us go over.  We are still at the rear but doing better while the rain gets harder and the thunder rolls.  I keep thinking maybe we should give it up but they are still going.  We are pretty drenched by now when we see that the race is stopped and thank heavens there will be no third race. 

 

We get to the shore and since we have all come in at the same time it’s crowded.  I decide to jump out of the boat just a few yards from shore…mistake.  I stepped off into deep squishy mud past my calves.  It sucked my feet down and I couldn’t move.  I pulled on one leg only to lose my balance and grab onto the line separating the launch area.  I stepped into a net, lost my shoe, had to relocate it with my bare foot and was finally pulled in by one of the helpers.  I was pretty embarrassed going into the shower.  Tom enjoyed the event and I felt better about it the next day.

 

All the women brought pot luck to share after the race.  It was truly and international feast with so many different kinds of foods and desserts.  We left about 4 tired and glad to have had the experience.   

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Shopping and Sri Lankan Luxury

January 12, 2008

Tom – Ranjan and his driver picked us up promptly at 8am, in fact he was early so just waited in the car.  His driver takes the bus (2-3 hrs. one way) to come to work, drives all day as needed, then takes the bus back home.  Ranjan is very considerate of this and tries so dismiss him by 3:30 which gives the driver about a 12 hour day.  We were supposed to drop Ranjan off at his store but we went inside and spent an hour talking with him.  His framing/art /gem shop is very interesting with great paintings from local artists.  The driver then took us to P & A and the House of Fashions for shopping.  Both are primarily clothing outlets.

Helen – I didn’t care too much for the first store but the House of Fashions was crazy and good.  It was like a giant three story Eddie Bauer Salvage store.  Merchandise was on racks instead of boxes but the people were pulling things off and trying clothes on in the aisles because there are no changing rooms here.  Just when you think that the last skirt that you wanted was taken, another armful was put on the rack.  Well, since I had experience, I fell right in pulling pants on under my skirt and trying blouses on over my dress.  There were brand names: bought $8 Prada sandals (were they related to my Prada sunglasses from Egypt??) a $3 Lands End shirt, $3 JCrew shirt, and two skirts for $7.  Tom bought shorts and a Land Ends bathing suit for $1.95 each.

We returned to pick up Ranjan and had a small lunch with him.  He bought hot chicken curry pastry puffs, which were delicious, from the lady on his street.  He swears they are the best in town.  After he closed shop, we went to the sidewalk art sale.   Since it had rained there were only a few dealers left but he bought two paintings and I bought one for Ruki to add to her collection and to remember us.

We are staying in the BEST guest house in the wealthy part of town (a Minister was assassinated on this street from a rooftop earlier this year but that was purposeful).  It is about 2 miles from the Fulbright office and 2.5 miles from the US Embassy.  The woman who owns the house is Ruki, probably in her early 70’s.  Her father was the doctor who invented the malaria pill.  She lived in a very large home filled with antiques (mostly Dutch) until she moved into her family home to take care of her mother. When her mother died she remained.

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She has two servants, Irene the cook and housekeeper, and old uncle (not real uncle) who is her pensioned driver and yard person.  The house has two floors.  On the first floor there are three bedrooms with baths and a large open room separated by pillars that serves as two sitting areas and a dining room.  The downstairs kitchen is where most of the food is prepared.  There is a modern stove with four gas burners on the side and two electric burners in the middle; they have their bases covered.  But just in case, there is another two burner propane fueled stove on the counter and yet another outdoor wood cooking type grill.  There are two French doors that open to a little patio and also a small room for the uncle off the kitchen.  The maid uses one of the front bedrooms.  

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The second floor is reached by concrete stairs with a landing midway in a very open hallway with windows on one side.  There is a very modern bathroom fully tiled with a shower stall, toilet, bidet (where I wash my feet), and sink.  Next to it is a TV room with a large flat screen HD TV and loads of DVD’s.  Our room is large with a wardrobe, two large dressers, and an antique Dutch desk.  It has two walls with glass casement windows with iron works (to keep the bugs out??), a double bed with a net which we sleep under and a large ceiling fan.  Most rooms also have an air conditioner but we have been comfortable without it.  The living room and dining room are combined but again separated by pillars with wonderful antique Dutch caned sofas and chairs.  One side chair has elephant heads craved in the front legs with the head at the top and the trunk leading to the foot of the front legs.  It is awesome.  The dining table seats ten and is teak.  Ruki’s bedroom is large, off the living room and has a private bath.  The kitchen is smaller with modern LG stainless steel side-by-side refrigerator, stove with oven, washing machine under the counter, and dishwasher.  Going out to the back is a covered porch area that overlooks the garden with four large caned chairs for relaxing and tea, a balcony for drying clothes and stairs to the first level.  Off the porch are two rooms, one a laundry room and one a store room.  Everywhere you look there is another wonderful antique: tables, lounges, chairs, couches, curio casements, spice boxes, rice boxes, trunks, paintings, desks, wardrobes and on and on…all Tom hears me say is “I want one, I want one!!”

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I like having a maid !!  Breakfast first consisted of eggs, meat, toast, cereal, juice, coffee, and fresh fruit.  OK, this was way too much since I already brought five pounds back from Egypt; so after two days of this we asked if we could just have coffee, cereal, fruit, and toast.  One morning Irene said I will make you a native breakfast; it consisted of hoppers (rice dough squeezed through a ricer into little baskets which were then steamed.  These were served with delicious curried lentils and another curry made from tofu and potatoes.  It tasted like chicken and was delicious.  So here we go again…lunch at 8 in the morning.

Tea time is 4 pm, time to relax with a small snack and a chance to talk over the day’s events.

Ruki and I really hit it off and we watch Indian movies at night…so that I am more able to understand this culture.  One was called WATER and I cried.  Another was called FIRE and she said I cannot see EARTH because I am too emotional.

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Some of the things that are different: you have to turn on the hot water switch about 10 minutes before you use it…that is on sunny days because it works on a solar system.  On cloudy days (we had several tepid showers) we were told to turn on another heater. You have to sleep under the net and still the bugs get in and get you because they are so small.  You walk inside with only slippers even though the floor areas are concrete and still take off your slippers when you walk on the few rugs and Orientals.

We are very comfortable but decided to move to the lower level after the first week because it was cheaper (from $35 to $20/day) and we had to stay another week at least.  The first floor bedroom is also a good size with its own bath.  This bath is not as modern, no tiles, a large tub with a shower above it, no bidet, and has its own hot water heater for the shower as well.  It also had the biggest cockroaches that I have seen in some time, 1” wide and about 3” long…scary buggers.  They scared even me!!  We got some spray and the next morning there were three barely alive and since then no more.

 

Tom – In the evening we took a Tuk Tuk to Majestic City which is like a mall in one three story building.  All shops are really small.  I bought a pair of slippers and we ate spaghetti and beef from a Mongolian fast food place – it was God awful!

 

Helen – I will not go there again!   The stores were small and crowded and dirty. No thanks!  Let’s get back to the Tuk-Tuks, these are really a riot.  They are about the size of a senior’s tricycle but in reality they are a motorcycle with an open cab on top of a three wheeled base.  The wheels are really small (like a wheelbarrow, maybe smaller).  The lower part of the cab is a hard body with a canvas top.  The steering is a T-stick with the clutch and brakes on the handlebars and the floor has a tiny gas pedal.  The driver sits in front on a small seat and behind him is a two seat bench though I have seen more than 6 piled in there.  The most important part is the HORN!!  Because this vehicle is so small, it darts in, out, and around other cars, buses, people, and whatever is in his way.  Everyone understands the various beeps, some say get out of my way, one says I am passing you, one says hi, one says bye…it’s all the same to me…a headache.  These taxies putt and stop, start and go, scare you to death and still get you to your destination intact. 

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Elephants and Stick Fishermen

January 11, 2008

 TomWe were up to shower and have breakfast at 5am.  A Fulbright driver in a Toyota Land Cruiser picked us up at 6am and we started down the Galle Road toward Matara.  I was instructed to sit up front because it makes it easier to get through the security check points with an American in view.  The road follows the southwest coast of the island and the further south you go the better the views and beaches.  We passed many temples (Buddhist) and kovils (Hindu) on our route.  Other interesting sites included a work elephant and his handler ahead of us in our lane, about 30 men pulling a huge fishing net into shore, and stick fishermen.  The stick fishermen have several poles that they place in a line out to sea.  The closest is short because the water is shallow the furthest is long because it is in the deepest water.  As the tide changes, the stick fisherman moves to the next pole with his fishing pole.

 

We were right on-time for our 11am meeting with theVice Chancellor of the University of Ruhuna, Chair of the Physical Education Department and faculty representative to the Sport Council.  I explained the Fulbright process, gave them a synopsis of my background and then answered their questions.  After ending the meeting with some tea and cake, we were given a tour of facilities and then I was shown a PowerPoint presentation related to a course they were developing.

 

I was surprised to learn that they had just started a new course titled Physical Fitness and Health Management (FSC3242).  It is an elective but they had so much interest that they had to limit enrollment to 200.  The course is divided into two sections, 15 hours of theory (mass lecture for entire group) and 30 hours of practical sessions (in subgroups of about 30).  The theory part was taught by visiting instructors from Colombo.  The practical sessions, taught by the department, include some weight training and then the student chooses one of three games: volleyball, net ball, or badminton.  The rest of the physical education program is really recreational sport – they have inter-faculty (intramurals) and inter-university competitions (athletics). 

 

Returning to the Vice Chancellor’s office we agreed that I could help Ruhuna instructors both revise and teach the theory part of the course as well as provide ideas for reorganization.  The Vice Chancellor took us for a fish lunch at a small rebuilt restaurant on the Matara beach, one of the beaches that took the full brunt of the 2004 tsunami.  I agreed to move to Matara and provide professional assistance for at least 3-4 weeks.    

 

On the way back to Colombo we stopped to have coffee with a Fulbright couple in Galle.  They have not been happy campers and are trying to get approval to leave the country early.  They complained about bugs, dirt, heat, humidity, no hot water, power outages, little cooperation, and a feeling of isolation.  We brought them a bottle of wine – a temporary fix!  On the way back, Ranjan called to say that he would pick us up at ten the following morning and that we could then use his car and driver to go shopping.  Got back to Colombo at 8pm and learned that a bomb had just gone off at the train station.

 

Helen – The drive was horrific but the scenery beautiful.  Getting out of the city on a working morning was so bad I just laid down on the back seat and listened peeking out of the window.  I thought that I had seen everything in the streets (cows, dogs, jaywalkers, carts) until I spotted this huge elephant in front of us in our lane going with the traffic.  Of course, he was going to work at the lumber yard where he moves the large tree trunks.  We drove through the area where the tsunami hit and you could still see so much of the destruction though rebuilding was evident.  We saw three antique shops but they were closed…they looked awesome with lots of structural pieces outside.  After about three hours we stopped at Galle for tea.  We drove into the fort area which is a small city in itself with shops and hotels…looked over the point at the clear blue water and tried to get some tea here but it was too early so continued a little further before stopping at a neat outdoor restaurant with a breakfast buffet.  It wasn’t anything we knew and so we only had tea.  Just before reaching our destination we stopped at a little roadside lace factory (two women).  I bought a couple of pieces but didn’t bargain because one woman was telling the driver she lost three sons in the tsunami.

 

The university was nice.  Looks modern with what are considered new buildings (though when you see the restroom you wouldn’t think so!).  The gymnasium is large but was being used for student testing at the moment.  The director said that it is the only room large enough on the campus to accommodate the students for testing and sometimes they lose its use for three months, once for 6 months.  He complains but nothing changes. 

 

They were not ready for us and will be looking for living accommodations this week…the city isn’t as small as I thought but the university is a little outside of town.  This is the best beach area and I don’t think it is far from campus.