The Martin's Blog

Winter Trip 2016 Report

January 17 – Chad dropped us off at the Dayton airport at 4:45am and we landed in Cartagena Colombia at 2pm (no change in time zone).

After checking into our guesthouse, we began to explore the old city by walking the northeast sections of the city wall.  There are over 8 miles of city walls (Las Murallas) and we walked every inch during our stay!  The construction of the city wall began during the 16^th century, after a pirate attack by Sir Francis Drake, and was completed in 1796.

After walking our first section of wall, we started working our way through the maze of the old town.  Cartagena was the main Spanish port on the Caribbean and the major northern gateway into South America.  It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with cobbled alleys, churches, plazas and balconies covered in flowers.

Cathedral of Cartagena was begun in 1575 and completed in 1612.  It is officially called the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria and is one of the oldest episcopal sees in the Americas.

Street art across from cathedral

Plaza de Bolivar – Simon Bolivar’s troops took the city from the Spaniards in 1821

Statue of Pedro de Heredia who founded the city in 1533

After a little bargaining, local crafts were relatively inexpensive

Helen’s first jewelry purchase of the trip – pearls

Cheese snack

Interesting restaurant, we actually ate outside at another across the street – La Cevicheria.  We knew it was a seafood restaurant and ordered Ceviche Douglas thinking it was a kind of seafood platter.  Well, it turns out Ceviche is raw seafood and what we each ordered was a VERY large bowl of raw (seasoned) shrimp!

 

January 18 – Our first three and last three nights in Colombia were spent at Casa Marco Polo in the San Diego district of the old city of Cartagena – a privately owned and remodeled Colonial house

Terrific breakfast included – first great coffee, the fruit plate (some we had never had before) and juice, followed by eggs anyway you would like them (we usually had “everything” omelets) and bread/jam

Stairs up to our room (one of only three)

Our room was the one on top, above it was a roof lookout

We started the morning by walking to Plaza de la Aduana and then up onto the west city wall

We then went outside the city wall to the Parque de la Marina where there are monuments to the Colombian Navy

Two of the monuments were particularly interesting to me, the first was one to Colombian Naval heroes

And the second was a 16th? Century Japanese battleship

We then continued our walk on the west wall

Plaza Santa Teresa from wall

 

Uh-Oh!!!   This resulted in a 50 kt emerald pendant

Nice shoes but couldn’t get the right fit

Fried cheese sticks from Jose became our “go to” snack or small lunch

Balcony flowers everywhere

Statue of Fat Woman Reclining in the Plaza de Santo Domingo

The Palacio de la Inquisicion preserves some of the gruesome details of the Inquisition in Colombia, which started here in 1610.  The crimes were magic, witchcraft and blasphemy and resulted in public executions.  About 800 met with horrific deaths before the trials were ended in 1821 with Colombian Independence.  This is Juan, our English guide.

One of the outside displays – the gallows!

A portrait showing an “autos-da-fe” or Inquisition trial with relatives looking on

“Tools” of the trade – to force confessions!

Yesterday we got disoriented several times as we walked through the maze of the old town.  Today, we were like old pros!

“Snake Oil” salesman – actually selling plant flavavoids

We ate chocolate crepes while watching the sunset at Café del Mar on the northwest corner of the city wall

Should have bought one or more bags – I can’t believe I just wrote that; no wonder Helen enjoyed this trip so much!

Hot days (90s) and comfortable evenings

 Evening snack

Puerta del Reloj – city gate

January 19 – Monumento a la India Catalina; statue of Catalina, a Carib woman who served as interpreter to Pedro de Heredia when the Spaniards first arrived.  It is located outside the main entrance to the old city.  I meant to take a front view picture in early evening but never got around to it.

It was a big day for walking and we started by following the east city wall to Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas – The Fort

When I first saw this picture, I wasn’t sure who this was!

Approaching the fort

Some sticky nourishment on a hot morning

The fort was begun in 1657 and by 1762 it covered the entire San Lazaro hill.  It was Spain’s greatest fortress and was never taken despite numerous attempts.

One of a complex system of tunnels

Approaching the top

The fort dominates the cityscape and gives great views of the old town

And new city

 

After the fort, we continued our walk on the east and then south old city walls around the Getsemani District

A “have” house next to a “have little” house

Walking to the city gate along the Muelle Turistico de los Pagasos

Male on the left and female on the right

We continued to the Plaza de Bolivar and toured the Museo del Oro Zenu or Gold Museum

Small but very interesting collections of gold and pottery of the Zenu people who inhabited the region before the Spaniards – and it was air conditioned!

Burial urns

Shared a grilled fish dinner at the Majagua restaurant located on Plaza Fernandez de Madrid and then returned to our room to pack for our trip the next day

 

January 20 – Took a taxi to the airport to pick up our rental car and drove to our accommodations just east of Parque National Natural Tayrona on Colombia’s Caribbean north coast.  It took us 7 hrs (2.5 extra hours) due to car rental delays, construction and Google Maps problems getting through Barranquilla.  The route we traveled is one of the few in Colombia that the US State Department states is relatively safe to travel during the day.  Here are a few roadside sites that we experienced along the way.

Entering Finca Barlovento property, which is located at Playa (beach) Los Naranjos where the Rio (river) Piedras enters the Caribbean.  Caiman are crocodiles that inhabit the river here.

The following pictures of our amazing guesthouse, Finca Barlovento, were taken over a 3 day period.  View of Finca Barlovento from the west – our accommodations for three nights.  This may be the most scenic location we have ever experienced in that there was natural beauty in EVERY direction!

Our room was the one on the corner directly behind Helen; the only one ensuite

The center bottom is the kitchen and the dining area is on the right

Windows on left looked out on the beach to the north

Window in center looked east and was right above the point where the Rio Piedras enters the Caribbean

Note the thatched roof

Shower view!

Our balcony

Lace (wave) on beach and local fisherman (on rock)

Feathered friend below balcony

View looking north

View from water at low tide

Portuguese Man-of-War (jellyfish)

Deck

Breakfast coffee and view to the south

Breakfast and dinner included

View of beach and Finca Barlovento (center left) from the south (Tom on rock)

 

 

View from the north

View west up river – jungle and Sierra Nevada mountains

 

 

January 21 – Karla and Will from our guesthouse joined us for a full day in Tayrona NP.  It was a short drive to the only road entrance to the park at El Zaino.  The park entrance fees are relatively expensive.

Required park orientation

You may be checked for alcohol or glass bottles – don’t risk getting shot!

Will is Australian and Karla is Colombian.  Karla was a great help (Spanish) making our entrance relatively smooth

Our parking area near Canaveral – these pics were Helen’s idea

On the trail to Arrecifes, took about 45 minutes

Arrecifes has nice beaches but you need to be careful of dangerous currents

 

 

Trail mishap – I had my ball cap on and was running to catch up after taking some pictures

Re-creation of trail mishap – didn’t see the low tree!!!

Hiked for about ten more minutes to La Aranilla where there was a pretty cove for swimming

After a short dip, we hiked another 20 minutes to La Piscina

We decided to by-pass the beaches here and hike another 20 minutes to get to our final destination – Cabo San Juan del Guia

Leaf cutter ants – after all, this is the jungle!

Nice boulders

There is camping, an outside restaurant (ate lunch there) and hammocks for rent

Here we found the best and therefore most popular beaches in the park

We could have hired a horse to bring us here – about $10 one-way.  Helen wanted a picture of his stirrups

The east cove.  The hut in between the coves has two small “rooms” as well as six hammocks that can be rented

The west cove.  Even though there were more people here than anywhere else in the park, it did not feel crowded

Here are progressive views from the hut toward the west cove – beautiful!

 

It took us about 1.5 hrs to hike straight back to the car – it was a super day in Tayrona National Park

 

January 22 – Spent the entire day enjoying the beaches and environs of Finca Barlovento

January 23 – Started driving after breakfast, stopped at Tayrona NP to buy a park T-shirt and then headed toward Cartagena.  About an hour northeast of the city we stopped to experience the mud bath at Volcan de Lodo El Totumo.  The “volcano” is a conical mud formation about 35 ft high.

 

Climbed about 10 ft down a ladder into the center of the “volcano.”  I have seen pictures where the mud is near the top – not sure why we were 10 ft down

The mud is geothermally warmed and is a comfortable temperature.  I didn’t submerge my head due to the cut I had incurred two days earlier.

You to pay to go into the volcano, then you were expected to tip the official who took you to the top and did photographs with your camera, the massagers, the fellow who held your clothes, the woman who rinsed you off and then had to pay for the shower you needed to really get the rest (almost) of the mud off.  In total about $24 for both of us.

Escaping from the volcano

Helen – a little stinky and view of the road coming toward the volcano and lake

It was clearly a bonding experience

Hard on my tender feet

Heading for a rinse – ouch, ouch, ouch

Warm water from river

Shared a fish lunch to celebrate our “born again” dousing

Dropped the car off at the airport, took a taxi into Cartagena, showered again, and walked to the Plaza de San Pedro Claver for iced coffees.  Beautiful evening, watched a wedding party exit the church with music and dancing.

It was Saturday and our one-night out in Cartagena.  We went to the Café Havana for snacks, strong rum drinks and a loud live Cuban band – the place was packed!  This is a picture of our new Brazilian friends

Notice the sharp looking woman with the emerald pendant!

January 24 – walked to Iglesia de Santo Toribio de Mangrovejo (completed in 1732) for mass but discovered we would have to wait over an hour.

So we continued to Iglesia de San Pedro Claver.  it is named for the Spanish monk Pedro Claver (1580-1654) who lived and died in the adjacent convent.  He is called the “Apostle of the Blacks” or the “Slave of the Slaves” for spending his life ministering to enslaved people brought from Africa.  He was the first person in the New World to be canonized a saint (1888).  He is buried in a glass coffin (can see his skull) in the Italian marble altar.

Side altar to the Black Virgin

Walked the west wall of the city again, more iced coffee and shopping

Texted this picture to the grandkids –

Helen wasn’t feeling well, so we went back to the room for the rest of the day.  I went out for some OTC meds and then walked a section of city wall around sunset

 

January 25 – took a taxi to the Convento de la Popa – Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas (Fort) is left-center, the Convent is upper right at the top of the hill (about 500 ft elevation)

Entrance to Convent and Chapel, which was founded in 1607.  On February 2, the Fiesta de Nuestra Senora de la Candelaria, thousands of pilgrims process up the hill to honor Cartagena’s patron saint – La Virgen de la Candelaria.   We missed it by a week.

Great city views from the top

Fort is right-center, Old Town is in distance

Harbor and modern city of Cartagena

Charming flower-filled patio of Convent

Practicing hymns

Representation of pre-Spanish pagans

Chapel of La Virgen de la Candelaria

Padre Alonso Garcia de Paredes – murdered along with five soldiers for trying to spread the good word

Next stop was Mercado Bazurto – Cartegena’s 24 hr central market.  It is a labyrinth of alleyways offering about anything you might desire.

Did a last visit to the central Old Town in the early afternoon.  I commissioned a silver pinky ring for Helen from Silver Smith Jose Baza (Fabricacion y Reparacion de Joyas).  His little shop is across the street from this statue of Pope John Paul II who visited Cartagena in 1986.  Helen specified style and size and Jose took the measurements.  We picked it up one hour later.

Returned to our room, rested, packed and then headed outside the north wall for our final sunset in Cartagena

Celebrating our Colombian adventures with the Ultimate Paella Seafood Platter!!!

 

January 26 – Helen’s Birthday!  Unfortunately, our morning Avianca flight to Bogota was a couple of hours late, which meant we had to reschedule the flight from Bogota to Panama City.  Long story short, we arrived at our hotel in Panama City at 1am.  You can fly from Cartagena directly to Panama City in less than an hour but the only airline to fly that route, the Colombian airline COPA, charges almost twice the Cartagena to Bogota to Panama City fare – they know they gotcha!

January 27 – decided to tour Casco Viejo (Old City) on our first day in Panama.  The weather was the same as in Colombia – hot.  We’re not complaining, that’s what we wanted on this trip.  We started by visiting the Panama Canal Museum (Museo del Canal Interoceanico) and then the Catedral Metropolitana (begun 1688, completed 1796).  The bell towers are inlaid with mother-of-pearl.  It was host to the signing of the declaration of independence of Panama from Colombia in 1903.

Both are located on Plaza de la Independencia

Ongoing preservation and restoration efforts

Beautiful baroque altar of Iglesia de San Jose.  According to legend, it was painted black the night before Pirate Henry Morgan’s sack of the city and afterward moved to its current location.

One of several attractive side altars

Nuestra Senora del Carmen

Parque Herrera – General Tomas Herrera on horseback

Plaza Bolivar with Iglesia de San Francisco in background; we had a nice outdoor lunch, from Restaurante Casablanca, while sitting at the plaza

Palacio Bolivar, a former convent where a congress of Latin American union was held in 1826.  It is now the Foreign Ministry.

Craft stalls along the Paseo General Esteban Huertas

Helen purchased two of her molas

Helen wanted a picture of the native leg sleeves

The Plaza de Francia is located on a prominent point right below the French Embassy.  The obelisk topped with a Gallic cockerel is to honor the French for their pioneering attempt to build the Panama Canal.

Ferdinand de Lesseps – 22,000 workers lost their lives in building the canal!

Low tide view of Casco Antiguo area of Casco Viejo from Calle 2 Oeste

Relaxed at the pool of the Country Inn & Suites by Bradford on the Canal in the afternoon and then had dinner at the Bucanero’s Restaurant at the end of the Amador Causeway

 

January 28 – Visited Parque Natural Metropolitana in the morning – tropical America’s only wildlife refuge and forest within city limits (573 acres).  Enjoyed walking the trails but the pollution of the city is having its effects on this national park.

We walked the Sendero El Roble, Sendero La Cienaguita and Camino del Mono Titi trails – a total of about 2 miles

The park is noted for its dry forest – during the dry season, the trees drop their leaves

Can you see the spider?

Lots of interesting trees

This is a grape palm

Sign for Mirador or “Lookout point” – highpoint of park, about 500 ft elevation

Also known as Cedar Hill

The park is known as the “Lung of Panama City’

Looking for sloths

We saw two three toed sloths

Pond/wet area

A good parting thought – “The Earth is Our Home”

We started our afternoon by walking to the impressive Biomuseo, which opened in 2014.  It is multicolored-shaped and meant to represent the branches and leaves of a tree and the forces of nature.  Panama hopes it will become a symbol of the city, much like the Opera House in Sydney.

The museum has eight multimedia exhibition halls showcasing Panama’s tremendous biodiversity.  It also does an excellent job of covering Panama’s history in Spanish and English.  It is surrounded by a “biopark” showcasing Panama’s flora.  We highly recommend a visit!

Our Country’s Pillars – monument “Pilares de la Patria” was erected by Bladex Bank

We rented bikes nearby and cycled across the Amador Causeway to the Punta Culebra Nature Center.  The Causeway extends three miles to the islands of Naos, Culebra, Perico and Flamenco.  It was built with rock from digging the Panama Canal and protects its Pacific entrance.  The Nature Center has indoor and outdoor exhibits featuring some of the tropical biodiversity of Panama.  It is run by the Smithsonian Institute.

Downtown Panama City from end of Amador Causeway

Bridge of the Americas – entrance to Panama Canal from Pacific Ocean

Freighter exiting the Panama Canal – taken near our hotel

 

January 29 – I have always had a fascination with ships/boats and have wanted to experience the Panama Canal since I was a young boy.  Today was the day – we did a “partial transit” with Panama Marine Adventures on the Pacific Queen.

We entered the canal from the Pacific end.  Our boat was paired with this one, the TORM ARAWA as we proceeded through the locks

Ocean Tug boat

Biomuseo from the canal

Country Inn & Suites – our hotel on the canal

This is a MAERSK line container ship that was actually too large to go through the canal.  The containers were off-loaded onto a train and taken by rail to the Atlantic side of the canal and re-loaded onto another ship.  They are building another parallel canal that will accommodate larger ships.

This is the Port of Balboa where the MAERSK and other ships were docked

Following the TORM toward the first lock – MAERSK is docked in center of pic

Approaching the Miraflores Locks

The TORM is going into the left lock, another ship is already up in the right lock

The White side of lighthouse is visible to ships entering the Miraflores Locks from the Pacific but the black side is not visible to ships exiting the locks toward the Pacific

Canal Tug

There are three sets of locks on the canal.  Locks are 110 feet wide and 1,000 feet long.  Some ships have been built to fit exactly into the locks.  They are called PanaMax and are 106 at the beam and 950 feet long.

The TORM appeared to be the maximum width but not length, so our boat could fit behind it

Lock gates closing

 

Going Up!  Mules attached by cables left and right keep boat in center of lock

Looking back, lock full

The boat moves forward under its own power.  Miraflores Locks Visitor Center is center right

Entering the second lock.  The two locks raise a boat from 43 to 65 feet (average 54 feet) depending on the tides of the Pacific Ocean

Double gates here for safety

In case boat in first lock hits first gate

Two spectators

After exiting the second lock we sailed about a mile on Miraflores Lake to the Pedro Miguel Lock

The Pedro Miguel Lock lifts boats an additional 31 feet to the level of Lake Gatun

Mule on the left – ships proceeding toward the Atlantic next pass under the Centennial Bridge.  The Canal runs Northwesterly to Southeasterly.  The Atlantic entrance is about 27 miles further west than the Pacific entrance – a good trivia question!

Beyond the bridge is the Culebra or Galliard Cut – through the Continental Divide.  The French spent 20 years trying to build the Panama Canal (1879-1899).  A 1903 treaty allowed the US to purchase rights and properties from the French.  The US also purchased properties from private landholders.  Construction started in 1904 and was completed in 1914 at a total US cost of about 387 million dollars.  The 1977 Torrijos-Carter Treaties turned the canal over to Panama.

Passing the Emerald Star

Looking back at the Centennial Bridge, ships moving toward the Pacific Ocean.  Note the channel markers

The Panama Canal is only about 51 miles long – I thought it was longer.  It takes 6 to 8 hours for a ship to pass through

Cost of passage depends on vessel type, size and cargo.  In 2010 a cruise ship paid $375,600.  The average toll is $54,000.  The lowest toll paid was 36 cents by an American who swam the canal in 1928.

The Mermaid Ace is a Panamanian vehicle carrier.  It is 107 feet wide and 656 feet long

Panamanian prison that houses Manuel Noriega, former military dictator of Panama

Entering Port of Gamboa

Our cruise ended here and we were taken by bus back to our hotel.  Had we continued through the canal, we would have sailed onto Lake Gatun and then passed through the Gatun locks, which would have dropped us 85 feet to the level of the Atlantic Ocean.

Had dinner at the Balboa Yacht Club on the canal.

We left the hotel at 5am the next day, flew to Miami and on to San Juan Puerto Rico.

 

9/29/2015 – Visited our friends Amir and Afsaneh in Campbell CA, had a wonderful Persian meal and reminisced about our time in Iran.  9/30/2015 – it was about an hour drive to Monterey, where we began our day by visiting Colton Hall.

The Bear is the state mascot

CA became the thirty-first state in 1850 and Monterey was its first capital

State Seal

A remote Spanish outpost became an agrarian Mexican province (Alta California) and then a U.S. state.   Colton Hall was the site of the state’s first constitutional convention in 1849.

Result of Helen buying an 8’ x 11’ – 70 lb Persian carpet!  How are we going to get it home?!!!

We did the historic town walk – this is the Royal Presidio Chapel, now known as the San Carlos Cathedral.  It was the church of all Spanish and Mexican governors and is the oldest building (1794) in Monterey.

 

We then walked to the waterfront, rented bikes and pedaled the coastal trail through Monterey

The trail runs over the old Southern Pacific railroad lines that serviced Cannery Row and the sardine canneries. The Monterey Peninsula has a year-round average temperature of 57 degrees.

We pedaled past the Monterey Aquarium and along the coast with great views of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary including dolphins, seals and birds.  We then continued along much of the famous 17-Mile Drive – Lighthouse Golf Course

This guy is for the birds!

I liked this statue

10/1/2015 – Took the famous coastal Rt 1 south toward LA, first driving through Carmel and then stopping at one of our favorite places – Pfeiffer Beach

Rock balancing is something we have seen many places in the world

Helen on the Rocks

Oooo – that felt Good!

Big Sur Coast

 

Our next stop was the Elephant Seal beach four miles north of the Hearst Castle.  October is when the juveniles and yearlings are primarily on the beach

Two sub-adult males engaging in jousting behavior

 10/2/2015 – Dinner and car show at Bob’s Big Boy in Burbank (BBBB) – say that out loud three times!   Jay Leno is known to frequent this place with one of his many cars.

Chandelier Tree – private home about a mile from Kate’s

Cash, Credit or Debit Card donation meter – to keep the lights on!

10/3/2015 – Horseback riding at Paramount Ranch in Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area.  The ranch was a filming site for Paramount Pictures.

Wooo – “Rarin to Go”

Not so Wild West

Movie Set

 

“Headin Out of Town”

Nice Ride Cowgirl (with purse and sunglasses?) –

Quick change – then lunch at Geoffrey’s on the coast in Malibu – $9 bottle of tap water!

Getty Villa – J. Paul Getty was an oil tycoon who reveled in Greek, Etruscan and Roman antiquities.  He first opened the J. Paul Getty Museum in his home.  In 1968 he decided to build the Getty Villa on 54 acres he had purchased in Malibu in 1945.  The Villa is modeled after the Villa Dei Papiri, a Roman country house in Herculaneum buried by an eruption of Mount Vesuvius in A.D.79.  The Getty Villa opened in 1974.

Inner Peristyle –

Outer Peristyle –

East Garden –

Good Audio Tour

Men in Antiquity

Vessels and Jewelry from a Burial

Boxers Mosaic in the Athletes in Competition Room

10/4/2015 – attended mass at St Francis of Assisi, breakfast at Millie’s and then spent the rest of our Sunday buying and potting plants for Kate’s patio

Succulents –

Patio Power

 

 

9/25/15 – Dinner – my first In-N-Out Burger – a very healthy Double-Double with a side of vegetables!

Arrived at our rental cabin in Three Rivers CA at 8pm after a four hour drive from LA

9/26/15 –  We were up and packed by 7:30 but had to wait until 8am for the Gateway Restaurant to open for breakfast.

We opted to look at, rather than eat at, the table on the rock!

 

It was a short drive to the south entrance of Sequoia National Park

Our first stop was Tunnel Rock – couldn’t quite hold it up!

The Four Guardsman mark the entrance into the Sequoia groves

 

September 26, 2015 was the celebration for the 125^th anniversary of Sequoia NP and the 75^th anniversary of Kings Canyon NP. The celebration, the unseasonably warm weather and the fact that today was a “Fee-Free” day because of National Public Lands Day, resulted in a large number of people in the park. As a result we could not drive on the Crescent Meadow Road and had to take a shuttle to Moro Rock.

It was a quarter mile hike to the top of Moro Rock

About 350 stairs

Through the rocks

Almost there

300 foot elevation gain to top at 6,725 ft

Sierra Nevada Mountains

We then hiked about a mile on the Soldiers Trail from Moro Rock to Tunnel Log

Roosevelt Tree hugger –

Kate was disappointed she was not able to drive her car through the Tunnel Log

Replenished our energy with the 125^th anniversary celebration BBQ lunch at the Wolverton Picnic Area and then hiked a half mile to the General Sherman Tree

General Sherman Tree – “World’s Largest Living Tree” – based on volume of total wood.  It is estimated to be 2,200 years old and each year it grows enough new wood to produce a 60-foot-tall tree of usual size!  It is 275-foot-tall and has a circumference of 103 feet at ground level.

We then did the 2.5 mile Congress Loop through the Giant Forest

Sequoias are fire resistant with 31 inch bark

 

Senate Group

House Group

 

Fallen Giant

Marmot

Lodgepole Visitor Center

Ranger Tom

Grant Grove Duplex Cabin

9/27/15 – Started with a morning hike around General Grant Grove

Tunnel Log Coffee Break

Gamlin Cabin

Sunny side of General Grant Tree- the “Nation’s Christmas Tree.”  It is the second-largest sequoia in the world.  It is 270 foot-tall and has a circumference of 107 feet at its base.

Forest Friend

Had breakfast in Grant Grove Village and then did the short hike to Panoramic Point for a view of the Sierra Nevada.

Drove to the Redwood Mountain Grove, where Chad and I had hiked in 1998, and then had an adventure following Google Maps (gravel Forest Road not on maps) to Eshom and onward to LA.

9/28/15 – picked up our rental car at 8am one block from Kate’s house and drove to CA Rt 2 (Angeles Crest Highway), which passes through the new (2014) San Gabriel Mountains National Monument administered by the USFS.  Stopped at the Switzer Picnic area.

To do a hike down Bear Canyon

About 3 miles roundtrip – trail follows Seco Creek

Canyon Campers

What makes the caged bird sing?

Junction with the Gabrielino Trail, which was closed

View from Trail Junction

Mount Wilson Observatory was reached by a 4.5 mile spur road off of Rt 2

Edwin Hubble used the 100-inch Hooker Telescope to show that our galaxy is one among countless galaxies in an expanding Universe

The peak is also covered with telecommunication towers

And a 150-foot Solar Telescope

You also get good views of the northern LA suburbs 5,000 feet below and the San Gabriel Mountains

Had lunch at Newcomb’s Ranch, a motorcycle destination on Rt 2, now in the National Monument

We then drove east on Rt 2 until we were stopped by a police barricade because a film crew was working down the road.  It happened to be at a point where the Pacific Crest Trail crosses the road.

 

There was a good view of the distant Devil’s Punchbowl north of the road.  We had hoped to hike there but will have to save that for another day.

I decided to do another hike off Rt 2 on the way back – to Cooper Canyon Falls.  I started on the Burkhart Trail at the Buckhorn campground.  It is also part of the High Desert National Recreation Trail (NRT) – 10W02

Pleasant View Ridge Wilderness – Los Angeles National Forest

It was an enjoyable hike dropping about 800 feet over 1.6 miles to the Cooper Canyon Trail

 

 

I did not see the drop into the canyon for the falls and hiked about a half mile until I realized that I must have missed it.  I headed back and discovered a rope to aid the climb down into the canyon.

Because of drought conditions, Cooper Canyon Falls looked more like a weeping wall

We were back at Kate’s home at 6pm.  In the evening we walked to Barnsdall Art Park to see the eclipse of the moon

 

 

 

 

May 9, 2015 – Flew to LA to help Kate with her dog Casey who was having neurological problems.  Kate had meetings in Las Vegas from 5/11 – 5/15 and I dog sat for her that week.  On Sunday 5/10 Kate and I drove to Griffith Park Observatory for a little walking and views from the LA hills.

LA Motel “Art”

I passed on a personal administrator/chair tool I have used – there are two so you can cover both ears!

On 5/13 I did a day trip to Palm Desert and the BLM Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument

Unfortunately, I discovered that the Visitor Center was closed on Wednesdays as well as Tuesdays because they had just started summer hours

I did all three loops of the Randall Henderson Trail, covering about three miles and gaining about 425 feet in elevation

The Wash Loop

The Cholla Loop – these are called “Teddy Bear Cholla”

The Canyon Loop

This is a Bighorn Sheep area

“Rusty Rocks” – dark brown patina caused by oxidation

Barrel Cactus

Ocotillo – spindly pole-like plant

I drove back to LA first on Rt 74 the “Palms Highway” and then Rt 243 through Idyllwild and then I10  – this is a lookout along Rt 74

5/16 – Picked Kate up at LAX and then walked the Venice canals, beach front and had great sandwiches at Bay Cities Italian Deli and Bakery in Santa Monica.

5/17 – Went to St Francis of Assisi church for mass and then ate a big breakfast at Millies’s Café on Sunset Blvd just like last Sunday.  We then took Casey for a walk to Barnsdall Art Park where there is a nice view of the LA Hills, art museums and the Hollyhock House designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and built in the 1920’s.

In the afternoon we took another walk with Casey this time around the Lake in Echo Park

Shared a corn “special” grilled on a grocery cart!

Smothered in butter, mayo, salt, paprika and then rolled in Mexican cheese!

Jose Marti bust

How about a little drink?

Patio table and chairs acquired from two different Goodwill stores

5/18 – I went to Runyon Canyon Park in the Hollywood Hills to hike while Kate worked at home.  This Yoga/Meditation group was just past the Fuller Ave entrance, which is located two blocks north of Hollywood Blvd.  I was told a lot of “Pretty People” hike here and I found that to be the case.

Top of one of the Hollywood Hills

Highpoint of the Hollywood Hills showing the house (on the left) where I met a woman who I thought looked like Demi Moore.  It had views east to the mountains, west to the ocean and south to Hollywood and LA.  It was just put up for sale for 10.5 million!

Descending

May 27, 2015 – I flew to San Diego for the national convention of the American College of Sports Medicine (ACSM) and also spent some time touring the city.  I picked up my rental car about noon and drove to Cabrillo National Monument on Point Loma.

Point Loma and Cabrillo NM lower left

North Island Naval Air Station lower center

San Diego International Airport upper center

Downtown San Diego to right of Seaport Village

Coronado is across (below) Downtown on North Island

I toured the Visitors Center, watched a video on the Intertidal Zone and then drove to the Tidepool Access to hike the Tidepool Trail – left or Pacific side of Point Loma

The trail along the west side cliffs of Point Loma was about two miles round-trip

The tide had already been coming in for four hours, so I didn’t get to see much tidal zone life

Interesting erosion pattern along cliffs

The haze/fog was just burning off

The new Point Loma Light Station on the U.S. Coast Guard Reservation

I then drove back to the Visitors Center and did the short hike to the Cabrillo statue

Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo landed on this point on September 28,1542 ,making him the first European to set foot on what was to become the western U.S.

Cross section of Spanish Galleon

Representation of landing, Cabrillo left from Mexico and explored the western coast of what is now CA.  There is a bit of a mystery in relation to how he died (January 3, 1543) but it is thought that he was buried on the island of San Miguel in the Channel Islands.  Helen and I visited that site during a kayak trip in 2008.

World Wat II defenses on Point Loma – Fort Rosecrans

Battery E Coastal Artillery Control Station 1943-46 and Old Light Station, Whale Overlook upper right

Old Light Station 1854 – 1891

Downtown San Diego

Cabrillo statue and Naval Air Station on North Island

I hiked only about half of the Bayside Trail because the park was closing at 5pm and then visited Rosecrans National Cemetery on my drive back to San Diego

May 28, 2015 – I started the day by attending an 8am to 10 session that Stacy was chairing titled “Medical Mysteries.”  It was quite interesting and Stacy did a great job running the meeting.  I think that she was both excited and a little embarrassed that her Daddy attended her session.

Afterward, I attended another session and toured the Exhibit Hall.  In the afternoon I walked to the Maritime Museum on Harbor Dr

and then to the USS Midway Aircraft Carrier, which is now a museum

The $17 senior admission was well worth it as a spent 2.5 hours touring the ship.  When the Midway was commissioned in 1945 it was the largest ship in the world.  It was on active duty through Operation Desert Storm in 1991 and was decommissioned in 1992.  There are representative aircraft from all operations it participated in on board as well as aircraft that participated in the Battle of Midway for which it was named.  The Battle of Midway was the turning point for the war in the Pacific and they have an excellent movie depicting/explaining the battle on board.

The audio tour describing the planes and ship areas was very well done

SNJ Trainer

Preparation Room

Baghdad Day One Targets

A-4 Skyhawk

A-6 Intruder

F9F Panther

E-2 Hawkeye center and F-8 Corsair right

A-7 Corsair on catapult

Helicopter Row

Tower/Bridge

Views from Tower

Memorial to Bob Hope

“The Kiss”

Nuclear powered Aircraft Carrier USS Reagan in port for refitting.  The U.S. will soon have eleven nuclear carriers when the Gerald R. Ford (CVN) is launched in 2016.

In the evening I took the ferry across San Diego Bay to Coronado where I did a nice bike ride along the Bay to the National Wildlife Refuge.  This is a picture of the Artemis Leader going under the San Diego-Coronado Bay Bridge.  It is a vehicles carrier registered in Panama.

Walking back to the hotel, I passed this cool mosaic batter

May 29, 2015 – Attended a convention session and then met Stacy at her poster presentation.  Afterwards we had a quick lunch and she had to attend another meeting related to her new position as an elected Trustee of the American College of Sports Medicine (ACSM).

In the late afternoon I walked to and through Balboa Park.  It is the nation’s largest urban cultural park.  Balboa Park is the legacy of two Expositions, the first was the 1915-16 Panama-California Exposition to commemorate the opening of the Panama Canal (2015 now celebrating 100 years!, the second was the 1935-36 California Pacific International Exposition.  Most of the Spanish-Renaissance style buildings were constructed in 1915.  Cabrillo Bridge, gate and San Diego Museum of Man.

Plaza de Panama and statue of  El Cid

Botanical Building and Lily Pond as seen from the El Prado pedestrian walkway

Casa del Prado

Rose Garden

I especially liked the Desert Garden

Always fun to take a train ride

Spanish Village Arts Center

Moreton Bay Fig Tree

Casa del Prado Theatre

Lily Pond and arches between Museum of Photographic Arts and Visitor Center

Spreckles Organ Pavilion where they were holding a high school graduation.  FedEx plane landing at San Diego airport and El Cid statue

Alcazar Garden – there are many more sites in Balboa Park, also I did not go to the famous Zoo on this trip

Walking back to the hotel – View from Cabrillo Bridge looking south over I5 toward downtown San Diego

 

2/27 – We were very fortunate that the plane was only about half full and both Helen and I could stretch out across three seats in an attempt to sleep.  Landed early in Guam at 5:30am and picked up our rental car from Thrifty. Our first stop was at Denny’s for a big breakfast.  We then tried to check-in early at our Day’s Inn but were told we had to come back between two and three that afternoon. The entire morning was spent touring various locations that are part of War in the Pacific National Historical Park. Started with Asan Beach, which was one of two beaches that were used by the U.S. on July 21, 1944 to invade Guam and take it back from the Japanese.

Observation tower at Adelup Point,

Asan Beach is in the distance

Japanese Gun

We then drove into the hills to the Asan Beach Overlook

Memorial Wall honoring American servicemen who died liberating the island

Memorial Wall honoring the Chamoros. The Japanese occupied the island for two and a half years

Next stop was the T. Stell Newman National Historic Park Visitor Center

Two-man Japanese submarine

Did a short hike behind the town of Piti to the three Japanese “Piti Guns”

Fortunately they were not yet functional when the marines landed – Gun 1

Gun 2

Gun 3

Parked our car at the Chamorro Village in Hagatna and walked to see some of the local sites. Plaza de Espana was the center for Spanish administration of Guam from 1669 until the U.S. took over in 1898.  Of course the Japanese ruled from 1941-1944. Visited Dulce Nombre de Maria Cathedral-Basilica – Pope John Paul II held mass here in 1981.  We then walked across the street to Latte Park (also called Triangle Park). These are called Latte Stones –

Historians believe they were foundation pillars for men’s houses or homes of nobility

We hiked up to the Fort Santa Agueda (built in 1800) Lookout

View of Hagatna (capital), Agana Bay on left, Tumon Bay (one of Guam’s Marine Preserves) on right with Tamuning (tourist hotels) on opposite side

Hagatna is the Capital of Guam – Guam is an unincorporated U.S. territory. Guam has about 200,000 people, is the southernmost island of the Mariana Islands and also part of Micronesia.  We ate dinner at Triangle Park (Latte Park) where every Friday locals offer food and crafts for sale – an outside mini-market.

We tried the squid (in foil), ate pork and chicken kebabs,

crab cakes, shrimp sticks

and a kind of donut for dessert

2/28 – Had breakfast at a local Flea Market and then drove to the northern tip of the island and the Guam Wildlife Refuge.

View of Ritidian Beach

The Visitors Center was closed but I was able to find a door open at the administrative building and found Shawn in one of the back offices.  He is doing a post-doc here related to the invasive brown snake population.  I called Joe who runs the center because he had confirmed a cave tour for us by email.  He said he was off for the weekend but would arrange for Jarod, an intern from the University of Guam to give us a cave tour. Jarod showed up within ten minutes.  He was at the beach looking for turtles.  We started with a short tour of the Visitor Center and he then took us on a 1.5 hour cave tour.

Limestone formation caves

Cave paintings

Large stalactite – notice top

Bird painting center of picture, at top of stalactite

Cave spider

Net covers entrance to this cave

Did a mile nature walk in what was formerly a coconut plantation. Guam National Wildlife Center land was acquired by the U.S. Navy in the 1950s and turned over to the Fish and Wildlife Service (FWS) in the early 1990s. It is adjacent to Andersen Air Force Base.

Butterfly

Beautiful pristine white sandy beach – looks like it would be great for snorkeling. We both went in the water so that we could say we were in the Marianas Trench Marine National Monument (FWS). That is, the oceanic zone between Guam and the Northern Mariana Islands.

One of the best beaches on our trip – crystal clear water, reef ready for exploring

Broke down and paid to go to Two Lovers Point. Bus after bus of Asian tourists but it was still a nice view and we got a tasty smoothie!

This is Ga’an Point about the middle of the Agat beach landing area for U.S. forces on July 21, 1944

Japanese Gun

Japanese Antiaircraft Gun

Can you see the Japanese pillbox (machine gun nest) built into the rock?

We then headed all the way to the south end of the island and Umatac

Every year during the first weekend in March they celebrate Guam Heritage Day. It commemorates March 6, 1521 when Magellan landed here on his first round-the-world voyage.

Magellan monument and plaque

Helen Dancing with the local Chamorros

Portable ATM!

Some of the villagers took items from Magellan’s ship; he retaliated by burning the village. Soooo, each evening of the festival the A frames built on the beach are set ablaze!

The point at the upper middle of the above photo is the site of Fort Nuestra de la Soledad built to protect the Spanish galleons sailing between Acapulco and Manila in the Philippines. It was the only stop to replenish their supplies.

The current structure represents the last of four forts built at Umatac Bay; it had seven guns

View looking back toward Umatac

Continuing our drive around the south end of the island, we stopped at the Merizo Bell Tower (1910) in Guam’s southernmost village

Statue at Santa Marian in Kamalen Park

Also, took a picture of Bear Rock outside of Inarajan for Peter – he wanted to be a bear when he was growing up

We then stopped at the Inarajan Pools – a pretty area that is, unfortunately, in disrepair

On the way back to our room, we bought Subway subs for our 7 hour flight to Hawaii the next day
3/1 – Left Guam at 7:15am and landed in Honolulu at 6:15pm the previous day, that is 2/28 – we again crossed the international date line.  That’s a 20 hour time difference!

2/28 – After the long 7 hour flight, we took a taxi to our hotel and then walked to the ocean and lagoon by the Hilton complex – had expensive ice cream cones on the way back.

3/1 – We restarted 3/1 again – just like Ground Hog Day!  Took the bus to Diamond Head State Monument (Park) for $1 each and paid that same amount for entrance.

We walked about a half mile from the bus stop up and through the car tunnel that gives access to the caldera

Descriptive sign showing trail to the top

The crater floor is at about 200 ft elevation – the next series of photos shows Helen on the trail

The trail to the summit is 0.8 mile

The trail switchbacks were put in in 1908

Steep stairway of 74 steps leads to the first narrow tunnel, that is 225 ft long

The second stairway consisted of 99 steps with overhead beams to place camouflaging

There were 52 stairs on the spiral staircase that led up to the four levels of the Fire Control Station

Additional metal stairs lead to the fourth level of the Fire Control Tower, which is the Observation Station.  It provides an excellent view of Honolulu and Waikiki.  The elevation of the crater summit is 761ft.  The next picture shows one of the bunkers that was built along the crater rim – despite the attack on Pearl Harbor, the artillery was never fired during a war!

To do a loop back to the tunnel, you walk the summit rim to a Concrete Landing/Lookout where a winch and cable were used to lift supplies from the crater floor. The Diamond Head Light can be seen in lower center of photo. It was built in 1917.

Starting the descent, view back toward caldera

When we were descending the switchbacks, I heard someone call out a very loud “Aloha” on the trail above.  I was startled and ducked. I immediately heard a loud thud behind me.  I thought someone had fallen from above.  But alas, poor Helen was spread out on the trail behind me.  She had looked up when hearing the “Aloha” and had then tripped doing a spread eagle on the rock trail.  She was startled and had landed on two knees, an elbow and her right hand.  She may also have broken one of her toes.  The State Park did not have a first aid kit!  Some passerbys but especially the man who ran the refreshment truck at the entrance provided us with cleansing strips, aloe, bandages and ice for her injuries.  The abrasion on her right hand was especially bad.  A Mango Smoothie was helpful in soothing her bruised ego.

Took the bus back into Waikiki and walked around many of the hotels window shopping, and admiring statues and flowers.

Ate lunch on the beach at The Hilton Hawaiian Village complex

Rested in the afternoon and then went to Snappers for their all you can eat BBQ Ribs.

3/2 – Took our last walk on the beach – Bye Bye Hawaii

Packed and took a taxi to the airport at 1pm, flew to LA (7 hrs) and caught the red eye to MSP. Our flight to Dayton was delayed because of snow and we arrived there at noon on 3/3.  Karlene picked us up and drove us home to an inhospitable home coming – see picture

2/23 – Bob got us to the Auckland Airport about 6:15am for our 8am flight to Sydney on Virgin Australia Airlines.  It was terrible, they had only two agents and by the time we got to the counter we had only 30 minutes to get on the plan.  But, they had finished accepting luggage and we had to take ours to a different location.  The first location they told us to go to was incorrect.  By the time we got to the right one and then went through security, we had five minutes to run to the gate.  You can picture Helen with her knee brace, backpack and picture (about 18″ x 24″) and me with my backpack, boarding papers and hiking stick running for the plane!  We were the last ones on before they closed the gate!

Our problems persisted when we landed.   Had difficulty finding the location of our pre-paid Airport Shuttle and when we did we had to wait an hour!  Long story short, it took us two hours to get to our hotel.

We stayed at the Sydney Harbor YHA.  It’s a “youth” hostel in a super location called “The Rocks.”  We had a basic but nice room ensuite (meaning with toilet/sink/shower). It was built on steel pylons to preserve excavation sites underneath – it is called the “Big Dig.”

View down from 3^rd floor

Artifacts

 

Dropped off our bags and headed for Circular Quay to catch our Captain Cook Ferry to Fort Denison.  We had to hustle to catch the 2:15 boat. City views from the ferry –

 

 

Fort Denison is a small island in Sydney Harbor that has an interesting history. It was formerly called Pinch Island and was used to house convicts. The Martello Tower was completed in 1857.

The island is part of the Sydney Harbor National Park

 

Tour boat passing Fort Denison

Had a fast-food fish dinner at the Quay and then took a lovely walk through the large and well maintained Royal Botanical Gardens.

 

 

 

Some of the park birds

 

 

 

Continued our walk south through the Domain Precinct to Saint Mary’s Cathedral

 

Archibald Fountain in Hyde Park

 

We were impressed to see dozens of running groups of all ages and fitness levels running through the streets and parks.

 

 

2/24 – Youth Hostel is orange – had breakfast at the gym across the street

I had considered doing the Bridge Climb of the Harbor Bridge – see photos

 

But it cost about $260 per person, I’d rather climb a mountain – and it’s free!

We chose to walk across the bridge

It was the world’s widest long-span bridge when it was finished in 1932 and is still one of the longest in the world

Though it was cloudy, there were many good views going and returning

This is the sailing ship we saw yesterday from Denison Island. It may be the “James Craig” that does a 6 hr Harbor tour twice a month

After walking the bridge, we went through the Argyle Cut (cut through the rock by convicts 1830-1850) to tour the Sydney Observatory.

 

It was built in the 1850’s and overlooks Miller Point.  It has an interesting collection of old star gazing and time determination apparatus.  It also includes Aboriginal sky story videos. This is a model of the HMS Endeavor that was the Royal Navy research vessel captained by James Cook on his first voyage of discovery to Australia and New Zealand, 1769-1771.

The Garrison Church (Anglican 1848), Sydney’s oldest, is lower right

Bird of Paradise flowers

 

Walked through The Rocks District including The Rocks Discovery Museum – which has four chronological rooms: Warrane (pre-1788 with native Gadigal people), Colony (1788-1820), Port (1820-1900) and Transformation (1900 to present).  Picture of “The Rocks” from Campbells Cove –

Yes it does!

Dawes Point Park under the south end of the Harbor Bridge.

Had a salad and Kaibab lunch, took a rest and headed over to the Opera House at 4pm. This was our only “dress-up” day during our six week trip.

Toured the Opera House from 5 to 6.  There are five auditoriums where dance, concerts, opera and theatre are staged.

 

This is the largest auditorium – the Concert Hall

The Opera House is on Bennelong Point

View of Circular Quay and Ferry Terminal from Opera House

Had pre-ordered a Tasting Table at the Opera Kitchen and ate that overlooking the Harbor from 6 to 6:45. Two of everything – small hamburger and chicken sandwich, French fries and potato chips, oysters, salmon, shrimp, three dumplings, sushi, pickles, – had to constantly shoo the sea gulls away!

Attended the opera Faust from 7 to 10:30 in the Joan Sutherland Theatre – it was excellent. This picture of the Harbor Bridge was taken during intermission.

Had a big cappuccino ice cream cone walking the mile back around the Quay to our room – our second ice cream of the evening!

 

2/25 – Same breakfast as yesterday, then Helen packed, did cross-stitch, sent messages and worked on re-packing the “Ship” painting that she bought in New Zealand. She is taking it as a carry-on, in addition to her suitcase, backpack and stitching bag – all the way back to the U.S. – 7 more flights!

Meanwhile, I did a fast walk through the city and the Royal Botanical Gardens to Mrs. Macquarie’s Point where I took this picture. The Danish architect modeled the Opera House on the “billowing white sails of a sea going yacht.” The locals think it looks more like the mating of two turtles.

Mrs. Macquaries Chair

 

Nothing like having a little help with your stretching

Nice map of the area

Australian Navy troop transport (largest in the world) in Wooloomooloo Bay

Navy yard

Additional pictures from Royal Botanical Gardens

 

 

 

 

 

Sydney’s Finest –

We were picked up by Air Bus Shuttle at 11:30, flew on Virgin Australia, landed in Cairns at 4:15pm and checked into the Bay Village Tropical Retreat

Then walked the Esplanade along the ocean into downtown – watch out for crocodiles!

Pelicans

Our only kangaroo sighting

We ate at the Splash Restaurant, then shared an ice cream and checked-out the sailboat we would be taking the next day in the Harbor.

 

2/26 – Shuttle picked us up at 7:20am and we boarded the “Ocean Free” (our sailboat) for our day cruise to The Great Barrier Reef

Had pastries and coffee as the crew prepared the boat

They were sold-out, meaning they had their maximum of 25 clients on board Leaving Cairns Harbor – the crew of four young men were very friendly and professional

Helen was supposed to do two SCUBA dives but that was quickly reduced to one because we were taking a red eye to Guam that evening and you need at least twelve hours after a dive before you can safely fly. She then filled out her pre-dive form, listing among other things her meds.  They were not familiar with her cancer drug, so they called their standing physician to make sure there would be no dangerous interaction between her med and the compression of diving.  It took 4 hours before there was a response and unfortunately the decision was negative.  No one there was familiar with her cancer drug.  So, they said safety first, sorry no dive.

It took 2 hours to motor out to the Great Barrier Reef off Green Island. The Ocean Free was a sailboat, however, due to time constraints and wind conditions, we did not sail – I was disappointed.

After mooring at their company buoy, we were given snorkeling instruction and then set out for our first snorkeling adventure. OK, Wake-Up and Breath!

There were a number of big fish that just swam around our boat looking for any scraps that would be thrown overboard.

 

Big fish – up close (in water)!

 

 

 

It was a good spot for fish and coral; however the morning was cloudy so we did not have good light for our underwater observations. Returning to boat –

Had a nice lunch on board about noon

Then took the pontoon boat to the beach on Green Island.  Saw some turtles on the way there and back but I was not fast enough to get a picture

Green Island is about one-third National Park and two-thirds resort

 

I took a nature trail while Helen stayed at the beach

Bathing Beauties –

 

Hot/Humid – Perfect Day! – Hey, it’s February 26th!

Returning to anchored Ocean Free

After returning to the boat, we again snorkeled for about an hour. This time the sun was out and we had great conditions for swimming over the reef and spotting aquatic life.

 

 

 

 

Clean-Up time

They opened the jib sail on the way back to Cairns but it was not really sailing

Disembarked about 4:30, freshened-up in our room and again walked into town for dinner. Lots to see along the walk, skate parks, childrens parks and wading pools, exercise courts, monuments, picnic areas, etc. All were being used as well as many walkers/joggers/runners on the boardwalk.

 

This time we both selected the Sesame Crusted Tuna from the Splash restaurant luncheon menu.  You were able to order from that menu any time before 6:30pm and the price was half that of the same meal for dinner. Again walked the almost two mile boardwalk back to our room – it was dark when we got there.

We packed, were picked up by the airport shuttle at 10:45pm and took off at 1am for Guam

 

1/31 – Auckland, New Zealand – Helen & Sue started the day with a walk along the beach and then met friends for coffee at Kahve, which they did every morning we were in Auckland.  Helen selfie with Linzi and Sue.

Sudar, Kahve’s owner

When they returned we had a healthy fruit and cereal breakfast along with freshly ground and prepared coffee – Bob has become a barista extraordinaire. We then drove a short distance to a beach where kids were setting up for an Optimist sailing regatta.

They then took us to see the totems and lookout at Achilles Point

I had been getting chilled all morning, so we drove downtown for a cup of tea.  By the time we parked and walked to a waterfront restaurant I was shivering severally with painful stomach cramps, so we returned to the apartment.  I spent the rest of the day in bed except for frequent trips to the toilet, only able to take a little fluid.

2/1 – Super Bowl Sunday – I was in bed most of the day with abdominal pain, fever and low blood pressure.  I was only able to get up for parts of the game but was able to see the exciting/unbelievable finish – the Boston Patriot’s interception on the one yard line with only 18 seconds to go to beat the Seattle Seahawks!

2/2 – Same as yesterday, diagnosis – some tropical virus.

2/3 – Made some progress today and was able to take a short walk with Bob and pick up the rental car.  However, the severe stomach cramps with frequent toilet stops continued.  The car was the smallest one I could rent; a sub-compact Japanese Daihatsu Sirion 1.3L.  It was a 2006, making it 9 years old.  When I went to start it – it wouldn’t. They put in a new battery and I was off.

2/4 – Left for Tongariro NP about 7:30am with Bob leading us in his car through Auckland until we were able to get on Rt 1 south.  Adjusting to driving a small car on the left side of the road.  Manual transmission on the left, steering wheel on the right, with mirrors and controls reversed!  We had a little trouble with poorly marked roads that was complicated by a Garmin GPS unit giving us incorrect information in New Zealand speak!

Example of countryside south of Auckland. It was an overcast and rainy day. As a result, the camera adjusted by increasing the exposure for the countryside but as a result the sky was over-exposed.

Arriving at Tongariro National Park – New Zealand’s oldest national park and a World Heritage area

We did the Mounds and Tawhai Falls Walks as we drove into the park

Can’t see the volcanoes – just clouds

Got to Whakapapa Village mid-afternoon, checked into our cabin and then went to the Visitor Center – it is located in the village. The village is left center in the photo; this is a big park.

My original plan was to do the Tongariro Alpine Crossing – one of New Zealand’s Great Walks. It is 13 miles one-way up over and through the volcanic landscape. Unfortunately Helen’s knee surgery did not permit this trek.

Instead, we did the Taranaki Falls Loop.

Notice that the map states 2 hours for the loop. In the U.S., trails are stated in miles.  In New Zealand they are stated in minutes and hours.  This estimate is based on the average adult hiker moving at a moderate pace. The advantage of the New Zealand system is that it considers terrain, e.g. difficulty of route. However, I am still preferential to our system, probably because I am used to it and like to determine my own level of difficulty. At the same time, I think the loop was about 4 miles and we did do it in two hours stopping only for pictures.

Starting on the trail

Dropping down to Wairere (Mangatepopo) Stream canyon, we had some rain and lots of wind.

The next series of pictures show us approaching and then leaving Taranaki Falls behind

 

Too cold for a dip

 

 

Falls just left of center and Helen (red jacket) on left in picture

Different kind of forest, it was a good hike

Before going out for dinner, we drove up to the Mt Ruapehu Ski area.  There is a formation there that is called Meads Wall – it was used in the Hobbit trilogy.  However, the area was socked-in and it was hard to see through the clouds.

 

2/5 – Woke up to rain, packed and were out of our cabin at 6:30am.  We were never able to see the tops of the volcanoes.  Perhaps we’ll get a view on the way back to Auckland. We drove south on a very curvy, up-down, Rt 4 to Whanganui.  It was slow going but the scenery was great.

I have to look up these numbers – but I seem to recall that 75-80 percent of the vegetation and 60 percent of the animals in NZ are not found anywhere else in the world.

Not many people around, only 4 million in the entire country.  There were at least 100 pair of shoes hanging on this fence.

It took us a good 25 minutes to get past this herd of sheep,

herding dogs and shepherds on their ATVs

 

 

There was a wonderful kids park in Whanganui, so we had to stop for pictures

 

 

 

 

We arrived in Wellington at 12:30 and waited for our ferry to take us to the South Island.  It was an hour late coming in so we ended up leaving at 3:45 instead of 2:45. Here is our Ferry arriving late; notice the snorkeler in the foreground diving for shellfish.  Wellington is in the background.

A hungry crocodile

The trip across Cook Straight takes 3.5 hours.  Our Interislander Ferry was the Aratere, which can carry 670 passengers, 28 railroad cars or 30 trucks or 230 cars and it was full.   As we left Wellington another Interislander Ferry was coming in.

It was a relaxing ride.  We even did “tea time” with biscuit, butter, jam and coddled cream.

Approaching Picton on the South Island

We landed in Picton at 7:15, an hour late.

Much of the ride to Kaikoura was along the ocean

Selfie

The ride was tense as we rushed to get to Kaikoura before dark.  We arrived at 9:15, checked into the Alpine Pacific Holiday Park and then went into town for pizza.

 

2/6 – It rained (snowed in the mountains) overnight and the morning was cold and clear. This is a good picture of our tiny Daihatsu Sirion. Helen is on the passenger side.

Started the day by doing the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway

At the end of the peninsula is the Point Kean Seal Colony, which is a national Wildlife Reserve

 

We hiked out to South Bay and back taking pics of the rugged coastline 530 and 532

 

Returning to the car

Went to the Craypot Cafe in town for breakfast because they had free Wi-Fi and we needed to get caught up on our messages.  Alas, they cut us off after a half-hour. The drive toward Christchurch was very tense because I was running out of gas and there were no gas stations.  I will let Helen describe that ordeal. In a nutshell, we were almost out of gas and I stopped at a self-serve station – no people, you can only use your credit card with pin number. Well, I never use a pin number with my credit card and didn’t know it. In the end, I showed a Chinese couple who pulled in how to use the pump and they let me piggy back on their fill-up. So, I paid them cash and we were all on our way!

We took the Rt 72 bypass around Christchurch. Here are some pictures along Rt 8 as we drove to Lake Tekapo.

 

 

 

Beautiful aquamarine color of Lake Tekapo

Drove to the top of Mt John, which is on the southern end of the lake

 

There are three observatories run by the University of Canterbury and a small restaurant on top

In 2012 this area was declared an International Dark Sky Reserve, one of only five in the world

 

Entering Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park, Aoraki is the Maori name for Mt Cook

Approaching Mt Cook

 

Mt Cook is the highpoint of New Zealand – 3724m or 12,215 ft

Checked into the Aoraki Court Motel at 7:30pm. We had a large modern/comfortable room with a fantastic view of the mountains

Didn’t want to spend $60 each for dinner at the Hermitage Hotel.  So, we bought soup and crackers to prepare in our room for dinner, Special K for our morning meal and Chicken Pot Pies for lunch the next day.

 

2/7 – We awoke to a beautiful mountain view outside our window.  This was, by far, our best weather day thus far on our trip.

We had an in-room breakfast and then did the Glencoe Walk behind the Hermitage Hotel.  Flowers along trail

It took a half-hour and gave us a good view up the Hooker Valley – Mt Cook right center

Did a walk through the Hermitage – cool fish on “weeping wall”

Maori eve decoration

Stopped by the attached Sir Edmund Hillary [first man to summit Everest, died in 2008] Alpine Center for a few pics

 

View inside the museum

It had snowed the night before we arrived so the peaks were covered in a brilliant white as we started our trek to Kea Point. The scenery was amazing.

Flowers along trail

The trail description stated 2 hours return and that is exactly how long it took us, i.e. 2 hours round-trip

Platform at end of trail, Mt Sefton on left 3151m or 10,335 ft, Mueller Glacier left of center

Found some delicious wild raspberry bushes on our way back down the trail

After returning to the village, we toured the Aoraki/Mt Cook NP Visitors Center

 

 

Ate microwave Chicken Pot Pies for lunch in our room and then drove up the Tasman Valley to do the Blue Lakes Walk. The lakes are now green with algae, because they are now filled with rain water instead of glacial melt.

We then did the Tasman Glacier View Walk, which gave us a view further up the valley to the mountains. This is Tasman Lake with the Tasman Glacier at the far end.

Returned to our room, cleaned-up and went to the Chaomis Bar & Grill for dinner.  New Zealand’s main exports are dairy products and lamb.  Our dinner selection – Southern Lamb, it was delicious.

 

We ended the day pleasantly tired and full!

 

2/8 – Started at 6:30am with the moon bright above the mountains.  Photo taken from our patio.

Drove to Omarama for a big breakfast and gas.

Then continued on through Cromwell, which is a fruit growing area.

They had a lot of bugs as well

Then on to Arrowtown where we toured the historic Chinese Settlement. The Chinese came from the Canton region of China to work the gold fields and were treated as poorly as they were in the U.S.

Village store – now Visitors Center

The next series of pictures shows other “houses” in the village

 

 

 

 

One of the Village desendents showed Helen how to shake a tree to get the ripe fruit.  She has a handful of little plums

Telephone booth in Arrowtown; I bought a $9 milkshake – ummm!

Along Rt 94 – Sheep, sheep everywhere

 

Took a short hike through the Wilderness Scientific Reserve outside of Manapouri

A unique shrubland environment of bog pine

and racomitrium moss – it looks like dirt in photo but is very fragile

A bit down the road we entered Fiordland, a very large World Heritage Area

Made it to Te Anau in time to visit the Fiordland National Park Visitor Center

Early inhabitant display

Model of Captain James Cook’s boat the H.M.S. Resolution when he visited southwest NZ in 1774

We then did the Lakeshore Walk to the Gates (small dam hydroelectric plant)

Colorful, poisonous, mushrooms

Trail passed through the Te Anau Wildlife Center, this is a Takahe, one of NZ’s flightless birds

We hiked across the dam to the start of the Kepler Track 669

Returning to Visitor Center – Again, in the U.S., trails are stated in miles.  In New Zealand they are stated in minutes.  Our Lakeshore Walk was listed as 60 minutes to the Gates and the same to return.  What that means is that you would get to the Gates in 60 minutes if you continued non-stop at a moderate pace.  That is exactly how long it took us even though we did stop for pictures.  Round-trip we covered about 5 miles.

Drove to Manapouri to check into our room and discovered it was taken!  The good news is that they gave us an entire vacation house for the night instead.  Great views over the mountains and river.

 

2/9 – Great morning view from our vacation house

Had breakfast in Manapouri, this is the view from across the street, then went back to the house and prepared for our overnight cruise to Doubtful Sound.

Map showing Manapouri (start of cruise on Lake Manapouri, West Arm (end of lake cruise), bus route over Wilmot Pass, and Deep Cove (start of cruise on Doubtful Sound)

Ready to board

Ate our left over spaghetti from the night before for lunch and boarded the boat to take us across Lake Manapouri at noon.  We were told our cruise boat, the Fiordland Navigator, was under repair in Christmas Cove of Doubtful Sound.  As a result, our cruise boat to the West Arm of Lake Manapouri extended its tour time on the Lake by over an hour.

Start of lake cruise

 

 

Captain

Anxious to get to our Doubtful Sound cruise boat, we actually became bored as the captain drove into various coves and pointed out numerous waterfalls

 

 

 

Interesting “Spider” rock formation

Passing another cruise boat on Lake Manapouri

Approaching “Giraffe” – do you see it?

 

We eventually landed at West Arm and then were taken by coach over Wilmot Pass to Deep Cove.  The bus driver was excellent – he was clear, articulate, descriptive, informative and funny as he kept us entertained on the 50 minute ride.

We also had three short stops on route. This is the view from Wilmot Pass to West Arm

Waterfall on route

Huge ferns

 Arriving at Deep Cove, we learned that the Fiordland Navigator was not yet repaired and that another small cruise boat, like on Lake Manapouri, would be doing the afternoon cruise and then dropping us off at the Navigator. The scenery was fantastic as we moved down the Sound to the Tasman Sea.

Technically, a Sound is formed by a river and a Fiord is formed by a glacier.  However, though Doubtful “Sound” was formed by a glacier it is still called a Sound.

It is one of New Zealand’s largest sounds (3 times the length and 10 times the area of Milford). NZ Flag, they are now considering changing it, perhaps eliminating the British Union Jack part.

It is a wilderness area of fractured and gouged mountains, dense forest and thundering waterfalls.

 

 

In 1770, Captain Cook labeled it Doubtful Sound because he thought that if he sailed into the Sound he would have trouble getting out.  We were told that the captain was right because, on average, there is a westerly breeze only two days a month!

Another Selfie

Approaching the Tasman Sea (ocean)

Plaque recognizes an early Spanish landing, sign points to Marine Reserve and a seal lounges on the rocks

As we moved into the swells and wind of the ocean it became quite rough and the boat turned to head back up the Sound.

 

We proceeded to Christmas Bay where we found the Fiordland Navigator repaired and ready to be boarded.

“Designed along the lines of a traditional scow, the Fiordland Navigator blends old world charm with modern comforts that include spacious viewing decks, a dining saloon/fully licensed bar and an observation lounge.”

Boarded boat to boat at 5pm – it sleeps 70

 

We were immediately given a safety briefing, assigned cabins and told to prepare for water activities.  I chose to kayak and Helen did the outboard boat tour. The next three pictures were from the water camera and again are not very good.

 

Returning to the boat

The last rays of sunlight for the day filter through an arm of Doubtful Sound

Three course gourmet buffet dinner prepared by onboard chef

My first plate full!  !  The evening ended with a nice slide show describing Fiordland National Park.

 

2/10 – The engines started at 6:15am and we were up for breakfast at 7:15.

It was cold as we explored other areas of Doubtful Sound

Mountains, water, waterfalls and clear, crisp, clean air!  Oh that we could breathe it every day –

Clouds and mist were spectacular.

Ben, Adele, Cameron (10) and Oliver (8) from London shared our table for the gourmet dinner the previous evening.  Afterward, Helen taught Cameron and Oliver how to play Farkle, which was a big hit. Here they are in the morning with Helen introducing them to a type of solitaire. They had quit their jobs, rented their home and were on a year-long around the world adventure!

Cameron and Oliver

We also met Pat and Karen from CO onboard. Here we are showing off our Eddie Bauer fleece jackets!

Reversing our course and heading back. Landed at Deep Cove, traced our route back over Wilmot Pass to the West Arm of Lake Manapouri on the bus and then repeated the 50 minute boat ride back to Manapouri arriving at noon.

Goodbye to our new friends!

Had lunch in Te Anau and headed north on the Milford Road Highway.  Another beautiful day!  The next two photos were taken along the Eglinton River Valley

 

I had planned to do three short hikes on our trip from Manapouri to Milford.  However, because of the excellent weather, we decided to hike to Key Summit, the highpoint of the Routeburn Track.

The trail begins at the divide parking lot and is estimated at 3 hours return

 

Watch your head!

Mt Christina

Moving-up, looking back

Key Summit – Lake Marian, a glacial tarn, can be seen right center in the bowl

Helen decided to start her descent before me. She didn’t want to wait as I took pictures. She followed a couple on a spur nature trail and couldn’t figure out where I had gone. I descended the regular trail, didn’t see her and didn’t find her at the bottom. She got to the car park about a half hour later and was upset with me for having passed (left?) her – go figure! Returning to car

 

Alpine Wetland

 

This flower is called a Gentium – 93% of over 600 native alpine plants are unique to NZ. This area also has two carnivorous or meat eating plants!

Stoat/Weasel/Ferret Trap – these are all predators that were introduced in NZ to control the rodents that were also introduced from ships.   The problem was/is that they prey on NZ’s flightless birds (Kiwi, Takahe, Weka, etc.). We saw many of these traps during our hikes

Hollyford River Valley

Driving west toward Milford

Little rainbow, lower left

Looking east from the east entrance to Homer Tunnel

Weeping Wall – waterfalls everywhere, I can only imagine what it is like when it is raining. We had exceptional good weather throughout Firordland. On average, it rains 200 days per year here!

The Homer Tunnel goes 0.75 mile through Darran Mountain

Arriving in Milford, we discovered that our room in the Milford Sound Lodge was not up to our expectations with the toilets and showers 100 ft from our room. Sent a Happy Birthday text to Brad – our 10th was his 9th in the U.S.!

 

2/11 – Started the day by doing the Milford (Piopiotahi) Foreshore Walk – this is Milford Sound

Yet another waterfall

Two shore birds

Sunrise on Mitre Peak

Had a breakfast of coffee, cheese and crackers as we drove to our next short trail at the Chasm

 

 

 

What happens if you miss a curve

Kea – the world’s only alpine parrot, another of NZ’s endangered birds

This may be a Kaka, pictures were taken in the same parking lot

After passing back through the Homer Tunnel we did the 30 min trail to the gantry at Marian Falls

 

 

 

Then drove another half hour to the trailhead for Humboldt Falls

Dead stoat on road – one of the animals that are killing NZ’s birds

Start of trail through rainforest to falls

Hollyford River

Humboldt Falls – 900 ft drop

Sign showing our route on the Milford Road

Next stop was Mirror Lakes, the boardwalk through beech forest took us to some great views

Earl Mountains

Why they call them Mirror Lakes!

 

Life –

 

 

Stopped in Te Anua for gas, a sandwich and a picture of their Takahe statue

We picked up a German backpacker outside of Te Anau and dropped him off at Rt 6 as he was on his way to Invercargill. Lake Wakatiput on our way to Queenstown –

Outside of Queenstown we picked up another hitch-hiker who had just done a traverse of the Remarkable Mountains east of the city.  We drove him into town and then found our accommodations at the Nomads Youth Hostel – yes, these old folks stayed at several youth hostels!

Queenstown beach, Remarkable Mountains in background

 

Frisbee play at Queenstown downtown Mall

Interesting water fountain

We rushed to clean two days of dirt from our bodies and then boarded the coal/steam fired 100 year old TSS Earnslaw.

It took about an hour to cross Lake Wakatipu

A photographer in a Real Journey’s helicopter (right center in picture) took promotional photos as we steamed across the lake

Our destination – Walter Peak Farm

 

Our Gourmet BBQ Dinner consisted of all you could eat local produce – salads, vegetables, meats and seafood

 

Followed by a wide array of dessert options

After dinner we were treated to a sheep dog demonstration – rounding up and bringing in sheep using various whistles, followed by a sheep-shearing demonstration

 

 

TSS Earnslaw returning for pick-up

Diagram of steamship’s interior

Departing for Queenstown – the entire Walter Peak Farm cruise, dining and demonstration experience took four hours

Happy passengers

There was a sing along with pianist in the stern as we polluted the air on our way back to Queenstown

 

2/12 – After a bagel, muffin and coffee at Fergbaker in Queenstown we drove to scenic Wanaka.  Stopped at the Visitor Center, took a short stroll along the lake, ate a sandwich and gassed up.  Wanaka beach –

Helen was grouchy because she said we didn’t spend enough time in Queenstown.  So, I cut our 1.5 hr Mt Iron hike and substituted a half hour stop at Salvation Army to improve her disposition.  She bought a pair of red capris, four orange napkins and a very cool hand carved wooden bowl with braided lip (perhaps from the Cook Islands).  Here are a couple of more pictures from the lake front –

 

Bought gas in Whataroa just so we could clean the windows on the car.
While at the gas station we met a cyclist we had passed a few times on the road.  He was from South Dakota and was carrying an American flag on the pole he was using for his Go-Pro.  He was on the last half of his 5 month cycle around New Zealand.

Lake Hawea

Screening protecting fruit trees

Scenery along Rt 6

 

After crossing Haast Pass we stopped for a short walk to Fantail Falls – creative people built a series of cairn like markers with river stone

Not far down the road we did another short walk through kamahi and silver beech forest to Thunder Creek Falls

This was our next stop along the Haast River

An enjoyable walk through a podocarp/silver beech rainforest

Lush tree ferns

Roaring Billy Falls

Aquamarine Haast River

Stopped at the Haast Visitor Center – on the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island

Decided to take a picture of a stuffed Kiwi, since it was unlikely we will see the real thing

Dropped off our bags at the Haast Holiday Beach Park and then did the Hapuka Estuary Loop Walk.  The vegetation here continues to amaze me.

Boardwalk through the intertidal zone

Lush vegetation

Heading toward Jackson Bay – the largest economic industry in NZ is raising sheep.  The second largest is dairy exports

Didn’t see any Penguins

Jackson Bay

Drove to the end of the road and did the Wharekai Te Kou Walk to Ocean Beach

Hike through wildlife refuge

Ocean Beach – Helen collected more shells

 

Another view of Jackson Bay

Shore birds

 

Four hundred settlers landed here in 1875 but the settlement was not successful due to harsh conditions

Grave of Claude Morton Dllibier who died onboard the schooner “Ada” August 27, 1862.  I hope he knows that I put him in our blog –

Ate at the well-known “Cray Pot” (converted trailer), the only place to eat in Jackson Bay

I had a large crayfish (type of lobster) and Helen had a blue nose (groper family) – another outstanding meal!

We shared our table with Helen and Greg who were sheep farmers from south of Perth Australia.

 

2/13 – Nothing was open as we left tiny Haast at 7:30.  We shared a gas fill-up with two girls from Canada.  They knew their pin for the unmanned gas station and filled-up first.  Then I continued for another $36 NZ.  Stopped at Ship Creek for two short hikes. It appeared to be a newly developed area.

Are you ready for this mouthful?  These walks were in the Te Wahipounau South West New Zealand World Heritage Area and the Tauparikaka Marairai Reserve!

The first was along the ocean – Dune Lake Walk

The second was up Ship Creek – Kahikatea Swamp Forest Walk

 

New tree ferns start as tight little spirals uncurling as they grow

 

The Kahikatea are NZ’s tallest trees, they interlock their roots to keep them upright in the boggy conditions

 

Driving along the west coast of the South Island along the Tasman Sea

Picture taken at Knights Point

Upon arriving in Fox Glacier (west side of Mt Cook) we drove up South Glacier View Road and hiked to the Glacier Viewpoint.

 

 

We then returned to Rt 6, crossed the Fox River and drove the Fox Glacier Access Rd to the parking lot

The hike was 1hr return with much up hill to the furthest view point

 

Lots of people here, with many taking helicopter rides and some landing up on the glacier

Toe of Fox Glacier

Start of Fox River

Formerly glacier now Fox River Valley

Built up a hardy appetite on the hikes and decided to have a large plate of mussels in town.  We then drove toward the coast to get a view of the upper Fox Glacier

View of Mt Cook as we drove toward the entrance to Franz Josef Glacier

We did all three of these hikes

Started up the trail and decided to first do the hike up to a view point on Sentinel Rock.  The glacier filled the entire valley in 1845 – see display at bottom of photo.

This is what it looked like in 1950, compare to today – previous photo

We continued on the trail, now called the Forest Walk to Glacier View (30 min return).  At that point, the trail continues on the riverbed for an additional 1.5 hrs return.

It is relatively flat for the first 30 min until you get to Trident Falls.

Heading up –

Like Fox Glacier – lots of tourists

High Five with display ranger – we made it!

Remnant of glacier covered in scree – see blue of ice (cave)

Hiking back down the valley

 

Ice cubes anyone?

When we returned to the car, Helen continued working on her stitching while I did an additional 25 min return trail to Peters Pool for a great view up the valley to the glacier.

We stopped at the Visitor Center in Franz Josef for park information as well as a nice pamphlet on the water trail we did the next day in Okarito.  I guess we did see penguins –

Arrived in Okarito about 7pm – Okarito Wharf

Then checked into a “Hutel” (small house) at the Okarito Beach House

No stores or restaurants here – Mac & Cheese and a beer for dinner!

 

2/14 – Valentine’s Day – we started the day with a two hour kayak paddle on Okarito Lagoon.  The water trails here were the first ones in NZ.  Helen and I paddled singles and three other couples had doubles.  We were not a group, we each did our own thing.  Our paddle was in the Mataitai Reserve.

I only took three pictures because that was all I had left on my disposable water camera, hence the poor quality of these photos.  We saw a good number of birds but would have liked to see more.

We paddled up the Okarito Lagoon following markers and then up Tidal Creek to a small pool.  A couple of other kayaks were there about the same time and while I continued up the creek until it became too shallow, Helen decided to follow one of the kayaks back thinking I had already started my return.  Long story short, according to Helen I left her again and she was upset.   When I got back to the Lagoon, I saw Helen some distance out and thought she saw me.  As a result, I decided to take a more difficult route back following the shore.  I did have to get out a pull my kayak through a couple of places but it was great fun.

Upon return, Helen decided that she was not interested in doing any hiking.  So, she stayed behind, did laundry and socialized with Laura who runs the Beach House.  I started out at 11:45 for the Okarito Coastal Walk and Three Mile Pack Track loop.  You need to do the Coastal Walk within 2 hours of low tide.

Low tide was at 1:40

Some birds along the way –

I believe this is an Oystercatcher/Torea

There were only four or five spots where I needed to move higher on the rocks to avoid getting wet

The coast off this point is in the Waiau Glacier Coast Marine Reserve

I met one hiking group of three coming the other way and asked one of them to take my picture.

The loop is advertised as 3.5 hrs return with a length of 9.8 km (about 6 miles)

It was a lovely walk and I reached Three Mile Lagoon and the suspension bridge at 1:15

 

After some snacks, water and cleaning the sand out of my socks and shoes I was off on the Three Mile Pack Track.

This is actually the road that was used in the late 1800’s to move goods from the port of Okarito to points south.  I only met two couples on this part of the hike.  There was a lot of up and down without any good views of the beach/rocks.  If I were to do this again, I would go both ways on the beach.

Picture of a cool dragon fly –

Toward the end of the Three Mile Pack Track I also did the Okarito Trig Walk (extra 40 min return) to a great view north toward the Okarito Lagoon

East toward the Southern Alps, unfortunately the tops of the mountains were clouded in

South toward Three Mile Lagoon

While walking back through Okarito, I took a few pictures of interesting buildings

 

 

 

After returning to the Hutel, I showered and then Helen and I did the Pakihi Walk (30 min return), which takes you to a good view of the Okarito Lagoon.  I had canned spaghetti and Helen had the equivalent of Rice-a-Roni for dinner – not very exciting for Valentine’s Day.  We decided we would have a good dinner the next day!  Walked the beach after dinner and discovered an injured fur seal – we were sad we had no way of helping it, though Helen did have a local notify the DOC (Department of Conservation).  The DOC is New Zealand’s equivalent of our Department of the Interior.

 

There was a beautiful sunset –

 

 

 

2/15 – I took an early morning walk on the beach to check out the seal.   The mountain tops were visible to the east

The fur seal had moved during the night and was still alive – hope he made it

Driving North on Rt 6

Stopped to do the Mananui Bush Walk 9km south of Hokitika

Trail passed through coastal forest – downed tree root ball

Fungus among us

To a beach with plenty of sand flies

The next stop was a Flea Market in Greymouth where Helen purchased a watercolor painting of a sailing ship and a shell/driftwood mobile for Sue

Views along our coast drive north of Greymouth

 

Pastoral scene with ever present sheep

Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes were next –

They are part of Paparoa National Park

Lots of tourists here

But the rocks/ocean/walkway/wave surges to Dolomite Point and back were worth it

 

 

 

I think this is a Weka – another of New Zealand’s flightless birds

Also ate a small lunch at a restaurant across from the entrance – though we didn’t get them, they served “Pancakes” all day – smart move, big profit margin.

Punakaiki Cavern, a small cave just north of the Pancake Rocks, proved a worthwhile stop as we continued north on the Coast Highway.

 

Views as we continued north on the Coast Highway

 

Arrived at the Omau Settlers Lodge outside of Westport at about 4:30.  Settled in and asked for directions/time to do the Lighthouse Coastal Walk as well as visit the Seal Colony.  The times we were given were vastly underestimated.  It took us 2.5 hours to walk from the Lodge to the lighthouse, along the coastal walk to the Seal Colony and back, which we discovered was the normal estimated time.  Here are some trees/flowers as we walked along the road to the Cape Foulwind car park.

 

 

Good map of Cape Foulwind

The first lighthouse was placed here in 1876

The current lighthouse was built about 1925

Bay along the Cape Foulwind Walkway

Scenic coastline walk

Unexpected trail obstacles

 

Though longer than expected, it was an excellent hike

Almost to the Seal Colony!

This point is a New Zealand Fur Seal Breeding Colony

Some of the seals –

 

 

Can you find the two seals?

The walk, vistas, seals, etc. were well worth the 2.5 hour effort and we celebrated a belated Valentine’s by having a delicious grilled fish salad with a pint of beer at the Star Tavern, right across from the Omau Lodge.

 

2/16 – Had our continental breakfast at the Lodge and then drove through Westport to Karamea.  Stopped by the Visitor Center and picked up a good map of the trails we would be taking and bought a take-out lunch at the 4 Square Market.  We spent about 20 minutes walking the Karamea Estuary.

 

 

Pictures of estuary birds –

 

Drove 16km off of the Karamea – Kohaihai Highway (McCallums Mill Road) into the Oparara Basin on a rough gravel single lane road

Our first hike was the 1.5 hr Moria Gate/Mirror Tarn Link Loop Track

 

 

I found Moria Gate Arch especially interesting

You climbed down under the Arch using your hands and a chain for support

The view of the cave/stalactites/stalagmites/river was special.  I had not seen this combination before

 

The Oparara River runs through the arch

Climb out

Mirror Tarn Track

Mirror Tarn

Ate our sandwich at the car and then did the Oparara Arch trail (50 min return).  See You Are Here – Oparara Carpark

Start of hike

Nice spot –

Reflection shot –

On the trail

Downriver side of Oparara Arch – An Arch is formed by a river, whereas a Bridge is formed by erosion, e.g. Rainbow Bridge on Lake Powell in Utah.

Entrance

 

656 ft long, 157 ft high and 121 ft wide

There were also two other caves at the end of the gravel road that we explored with our head lamps.

The first and largest of the two was Box Canyon Cave.

Helen liked this one best as you could walk some distance inside to see the formations, glowing water droplets and even glow worms on the ceiling

 

 

 

Leaving the cave

The second cave was much smaller

 

It was named Crazy Paving Cave for obvious reasons

Drove those bumpy miles back to the Karamea – Kohaihai Highway and then drove to its northern terminus in Kohaihai.  Helen stayed in the car to stitch as I did the short Zig-Zag Track –this view is from the top

I then did the Nikau Walk, which started by crossing a suspension bridge

The suspension bridge crosses the Kohaihai River

The walk was in Kahurangi National Park

It had more palm trees than any other walk we had been on

 

 

Beach view of Kohaihai River (right) entering the Tasman Sea

It was a long two hour drive back to Westport.  We decided to return to the Seal Colony Overlook and then returned to the Star Tavern for another fish dinner.

 

2/17 – Not much exciting today, though the scenery is always interesting – drove from Westport to Picton (3.5 hrs) and took the Interislander Ferry (Kaitaki) across Cook Straight to the North Island (3.5 hrs).

Kaitaki means “Challenger” in Maori and she is the largest ferry in New Zealand with room for 1600 passengers.

Entering Wellington Harbor

 

Drove north through Mangaweka – Old DC-3 for the tourists.  Different kinds of “Pies” are eaten for every meal.

It took 3.5 hrs to get to the Taihape Motel from the ferry.  Sent a Happy Birthday text to Hattie!

 

2/18 – Had a simple breakfast at 6:30 in Taihape at the Crystal Bar and started driving toward Rotorua.  This time we got to see Mt Ruapehu (left – 9,177 ft) and Mt Ngauruhoe (right) in Tongariro NP from the east.

Mt Ngauruhoe – 7,516 ft is actually the south peak of Mt Tongariro

Mt Tongariro – 6,454 ft

Arrived at the Whakarewarewa Living Maori Village outside of Rotorua for the 10am tour

OK, say the bottom word three times really fast!

This was an authentic Maori Geothermal Village.  Though a tourist attraction, people still live in the village.

 

 

Bathing tubs for different temperatures, notice how they are fed by hot mineral water through different troves

Church with cemetery on right

 

Pohutu Geyser

The tour was quite interesting and when done there was a dance/singing performance by the village Te Pakira group – three male and four female villagers.  At the end, Helen performed with the group.

Do these warriors scare you?

Maori Meeting House

 

Pohutu Geyser – another view

We also purchased a Hangi Pie meal for lunch.  The Hangi Pie, a pastry pie filled with meat, vegetables and gravy, and a piece of corn were cooked in a traditional in the ground wooden oven heated by steam coming up out of the ground (geothermal).  There was a nice fresh salad as well and then a kind of cake layer covered by pudding and fruit for dessert.

 

We also did a loop trail around Green Lake and another around the “hot” lakes and visited the museum

 

 

Checked into the Funky Green Voyager Backpackers Hostel in Rotorua.  As it turned out we had a large dorm room with five beds plus a double bunk bed a couple of shelving units and that’s it!  Fortunately, there was an attached restroom with shower that we could lock for our own use.

We had a nice walk through the Government Gardens downtown.  They had four very large grass areas reserved for lawn bowling and croquet

As well as the expected trees, flowers, ponds and monuments

 

 

We stopped at the museum for some excellent iced coffee and then walked along the lake admiring the various birds.

 

Lake Rotorua

 

 

Hiked around Sulphur Point

We came across a man who was half finished with a cloak he was making in the traditional Maori fashion.  It was his graduation project for his degree in Art Design.

Maori Canoe

Distant relative?

Ate at the Indian Star Tandoori Restaurant and that evening took a short walk through the Redwood Forest.  The redwoods were planted here as an experiment one hundred years ago.  They are clearly thriving.

Too dark to get good pictures – nurse log

Creative restrooms – almost makes you want to go!

 

2/19 – Had breakfast at a new McDonald’s “Mc-Café” in Rotorua.  It was large, upscale (e.g. many pastry options) and even had it’s own coffee barista!  We made a last minute decision to tour the Hobbiton Movie Set  where The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies were filmed on our way to Auckland.

Hobbiton is located on a sheep and beef farm just outside of Matamata

We had reserved tickets for 11:30 but were able to fill two open spots for the first tour of the day at 10am

The oak tree that overlooks Bag End was cut down and transported in from near Matamata.  Artificial leaves were individually wired onto the tree and must be replaced every few years!

Looking down from oak tree toward the “Party Tree” and “The Water”

The New Zealand Army put a one mile road into the site and helped with initial set development

There were 39 “Hobbit Holes”

 

 

 

Retirement home?

 

 

The Green Dragon Inn across “The Water”

 

Refreshments

 

 

 

Some Old Hobbits

Farewell Hobbiton –

 

 

 

2/21 – Had breakfast and spent the rest of the morning preparing for a ferry ride to and stay on Waiheke Island in the Hauraki Gulf across from Auckland. Bob and Sue have been renting a summer home there for years. Here is the ferry coming into port –

Rangitoto Island is left center, the summit of the crater is 853 ft high

Relaxing on the 11 mile (45 minute) trip

Approaching Waiheke Island

Puppeteer at the Ostend Market

View of Onetangi Bay from balcony of vacation house

Heineken Man having lunch

Ferry coming into Bay, picture taken from Debbie’s property (Bob and Sue’s daughter)

Getting ready to go fishing!

Bob setting up the “Torpedo” – it is a battery powered device that can take 100 fish hooks out from the beach. Hooks with bait are placed about 8 feet apart on a line that is pulled out into the water by the Torpedo. After an appropriate amount of time a battery powered winch is used to pull the line, hopefully with some fish, back in!

Dinner preparation back at the house

Yummy dinner while the Torpedo does the “fishing”

The Torpedo caught three fish. Sue says Bob will never make up the cost of the Torpedo by the value of fish caught!

Two of the fish caught – I called them Ying and Yang for obvious reasons

 

2/22 – Sue and Helen dropped Bob and I off for a hike through Onetangi Reserve and went shopping.  Auckland in distance –

Nice hike

Kauri tree forest

Our hike ended near Charlie Farley’s bar at Onetangi Beach

It was a festival day at the beach with a lot of friendly competition; e.g. horse racing on the beach and a regatta course for amphibious boats – see picture

Walked back to the house for lunch

 

 

Another view of Onetangi Beach

After lunch, we took the ferry back to Auckland

Helen finished a cross-stich for Bob and Sue, framed it

And hung it on their wall

 

2/23 – Bob got us to the Auckland Airport about 6:15am for our 8am flight to Sydney on Virgin Australia Airlines.  It was terrible, they had only two agents and by the time we got to the counter we had only 30 minutes to get on the plan.  But, they had finished accepting luggage and we had to take ours to a different location.  The first location they told us to go to was incorrect.  By the time we got to the right one and then went through security, we had five minutes to run to the gate.  You can picture Helen with her knee brace, backpack and picture (about 18″ x 24″) and me with my backpack, boarding papers and hiking stick running for the plane!  We were the last ones on before they closed the gate!

 

1/21/2015 – Karlene picked us up at 11am to drive to the airport.  Our first flight was to MSP, then to SEA, then to HNL arriving at midnight and getting to the Equus Hotel at 1:30am.  With a five hour time difference, that’s 19.5 hours traveling!  That’s what you get for using frequent flyer miles!

1/22 – We were up at 4;30am (3hrs sleep) and were picked up by the Makani Air van at 5:50.  Our single engine plane took about a half hour to fly from HNL to “topside” Molokai.

 

We then took a taxi to the trail head and checked in for our hike down the 3.2 mile trail to Kalaupapa NHP.  I picked up a park pamphlet at the trail head.

Kalaupapa – left center

The trail dropped 1664 feet and had 26 switchbacks

Helen, left of center, near end of trail

A permit was necessary to hike to the former leper colony

 

Trail started at top of cliff

We reached the bottom about 10am.  A “donkey train” (like the Grand Canyon) arrived with about 10 clients at 10:30 and then our tour bus showed up shortly after. 

In 1865 Hawaiian communities were moved off the leaf-like peninsula that is cut off from the rest of Molokai by the 1600 foot cliffs, for the formation of a leper colony.  King Kamehameha V established the community in an attempt to control the spread of leprosy.  Thousands were forced into settlements on this isolated peninsula. Leprosy, also called Hansen’s disease, was poorly understood then.  Today, leprosy is easily cured with proper diagnosis and treatment.  It is interesting that fifteen leper patients still live in Kalaupapa.

Norm, our driver/guide, took us on a tour of the former leper colony.  Stops included Mother Marianne Cope’s grave and monument (she is now designated a Saint by the Catholic Church),

National Historic Park Visitor Center

St Francis church

 

and the ocean landing. 

We were then driven to the Kalawao Settlement for a bag lunch and a visit to St Philomena Church

 

 

There are several graves there and a monument for Father Damien.  He was a Belgian priest who came to care for the residents and also succumbed to the disease.  He was designated a Saint in 2009.

 

We flew out of Kalaupapa (instead of going back up the trail) about 3pm. This is the lighthouse near the small air strip

Taking off – rugged coast

Lighthouse from air

Kalaupapa Settlement from air

“Topside” Molokai above cliffs – Kalaupapa peninsula on left

We changed planes “topside” for our trip back to Oahu and I was able to sit in the copilot’s seat.  We saw a Navy destroyer leaving Pearl Harbor, landed in HNL and were back at our hotel at 5pm. 

 

After dinner we strolled through the high price hotel district window shopping and listening to music and then walked along the beach, It was a beautiful evening.

1/23 – Slept twelve hours and then spent the morning walking along the Waikiki beach.  This is the Hilton Lagoon

Silver Head on left, Diamond Head on right

Barefoot Babe

Cleaning those bare feet – same spot we used in 1982

King Kalakaua  1836 – 1891

Creative bike rack

Took a taxi to the airport and boarded an Hawaiian Airlines jet for a six hour flight to American Samoa.  It is located 2,600 miles SW of Hawaii.  The word Samoa means “sacred earth.”

We arrived about 10pm at the Tafuna International Airport on the island of Tutuila and then took a taxi to Moana O Sina, our bungalow accommodations for the next five days.  Despite all of our international travel, this was our first time in the Southern Hemisphere.

1/24 – Had a tropical breakfast, picked up a rental car and drove to Pago Pago.  First stop was the Fagatogo Square Market – bought some bananas,

a huge avocado and two cute little girl Chinese tops for our granddaughters Leva and Hattie

also bought eight “donut balls” for $1. They were so heavy and greasy; I could only eat 3 of my 4!

View of Pago Pago Harbor from behind market

We then did the 0.6 mile Blunts Point trail to a World War II Cannon that guarded the harbor. The trailhead sign was somewhat obscured by a local’s chicken enclosure.  First picture is left hand side of sign

This next picture is the right hand side of sign

Start of trail – hot and humid

By the time we reached the gun, we were soaked in sweat

It is a National Historic Landmark

We then took our time driving to the west end of the island. Our first stop was the armed forces monument near the airport. Matafao Peak (2142 ft) is in background.

World War II era fortifications at memorial

We then followed a rough gravel road to The Turtle and Shark Legend site by Larsen Bay. As the myth goes, a blind women and her granddaughter were turned out by their village during a time of famine. They went to this point and jumped off the cliff. Feeling guilty, their family went to find them and called out their names. A turtle and shark appeared and the family knew they were miraculously transformed in the water.

Stopped at several beaches on our way out to Fagamalo (end of the road) and back

Helen searching for shells, didn’t see another tourist all afternoon.  In fact, only saw a handful during our six days on the island

Fagamalo Marine Protected Area

Fagamalo beach

After a Chinese dinner we returned to Moana O Sina for a dip in the big pool

and to sit and watch the waves crash over the volcanic shoreline.

1/25 – Sunrise over the small soaking pool outside our bungalow

Becka serving our tropical breakfast of fresh fruit (most from the grounds), cereal and excellent coffee.

Went to church at Holy Family Cathedral in Tafuna this Sunday morning – it was wonderful!  It was worth the half-hour it took to find it (no street signs).

It was the children’s mass and there was such peace and joy in the congregation.  A procession of young people brought the gifts (hosts, wine, colorful leis for the two priests and a white one for the bishop, as well as flowers) to the altar.  The singing was loud and clear and joyous.  At the end, all the children performed a native dance and sang.

Large Mural depicting the Samoan family

Wonderfully carved Samoan Nativity

 

Cathedral panel – men

Cathedral panel – women

We changed clothes and headed to the western entrance to the Le’ala Shoreline Trail – it is a National Natural Landmark.  Sign depicts locations of seven National Natural Landmarks on island.

 

Boys playing in surf

 We didn’t get far as it was high tide and the volcanic rocks were extremely slippery 

and dangerous!

So, we drove back to Moana O Sina.  Here are some sights along the way – example of a traditional “Fale” or family gathering place, every family (extended) has one.

We were advised to follow the Samoan Way “Fa’asamoa” while on the island:

• Always ask permission before taking pictures, using the beach or for any other activities
• Sundays are a day for church, rest and quiet
• Dress conservatively, no bikinis or speedos – wear shorts and T-shirt
• Do not eat or drink while walking through a village
• Other specific guidelines if asked into a fale

Interesting Samoan decoration

Vailoa Korean Fisherman’s Cemetery

Family cemetery plots are in front of homes and often close to the ocean

Banyan tree

First order of business, lunch – fresh avocado sandwiches.  We spent the rest of the afternoon lounging at the ocean and taking dips in the pool.  Note owner’s dogs – lower right

Check out the color

My favorite spot

Every wave different

Beautiful sunset!

1/26 – Helen’s Birthday!  It took us an hour to drive to The National Park of American Samoa Visitor Center in Pago Pago – only one road and rush hour traffic!  When we signed in they discovered it was Helen’s birthday and four rangers sang her happy birthday, first in English and then Samoan.  They informed us that the trails we intended taking were in reasonable condition.

New National Park of American Samoa T-shirt

The main American Samoan island is Tutuila

About 60 miles east are the American Samoa islands of Ofu, Olosega and Tau. Together are are called the Manu’a Islands. I tried very hard to get to Ofu, it is supposed to have the best snorkeling of all the islands. However, the only way to get there at this time is on the mail boat and we did not have enough time for that.

This picture is to be included in park newsletter, mentioning Helen’s birthday and my completion of ALL National Parks

StarKist Tuna plant from Pago Pago

American Samoa’s largest employer – locals are upset because they import a lot of foreigners who will work for lower wages. Chicken of the Sea closed it’s plant a number of years ago. We learned a new company is in the process of re-opening that plant. That should help the economy.

Charlie the Tuna

Pago Pago Harbor and Matafao Peak

Entering the National Park

Signs describing the Vai’ava Strait National Natural Landmark and Pola Island

Rainforest information

Hiking the Lower Sauma Ridge Trail through the rainforest – 0.4 mi roundtrip

Vatia Village on left, Vai’ava Strait and Pola Island from the east

Vatia Bay and Village, note bird above surf

After driving around the Bay and through the Village, we did the short Pola Island Trail. Guide stated, “Due to unfriendly dogs, please drive past the last house at the end of the paved road in Vatia Village.”

Looking back along rocky beach toward Bay and Village

Sign in Vatia Village – weaving remains an important traditional skill and activity

Women weaving mats in the community Fale, each village has unique designs.  They are used for sitting, sleeping and for gifts.

Tuafanua Trail 1.1 miles through tropical rainforest over pass and then down a steep descent on several ladders and ropes to a rocky beach.

Starting through the rainforest, there were then switchbacks up to the pass over the peninsula

Large snail, each species has a unique shell design

Descending with aid of rope

Very slippery

Approaching beach

They were right – a rocky beach.   It was hot and humid, Helen collected some more shells and we snacked and drank water to stay hydrated.

Pola Island (in background) from the west side

Preparing for hike back

One of the ladders

Another ladder

Pago Pago Harbor from NE

Back at the market, another rain storm

Coconuts, bread fruit, local transport and  a wet dog

We then celebrated Helen’s birthday with blackened tuna salads at the Sadie by the Sea restaurant on Goat Island.  Still looking for that fishing basket we stopped at the JlenT store in Nu’uuli where somehow Helen substituted a pearl necklace for that basket! Cell phone photo with Helen wearing “70 Rocks” crown made for her by Leva – she brought it on our trip!

 

1/27 – Rory West, our adventure guide, met us at 7:30am.  He had an old pickup, which would not fit the three of us, so we decided to take our rental car.  He was supposed to take us to two good snorkeling locations, based on tide and weather.  He brought two sets of old snorkeling equipment but none for himself.  I said we expected him to be snorkeling with us.  So, we stopped at a store so he could buy a third set and then we started our drive toward the east side of the island.

When we stopped at the first beach, Helen and I put on our snorkeling gear but Rory stated he wasn’t going in and would watch our things.

In the end, it was not a good place to snorkel and we left after half an hour

Rory had no other suggestions for snorkeling so I said we would continue east to the village of Au’asi and take a native shuttle boat to the island of Aunu’u.  It was something Helen and I were going to do ourselves anyway. It cost $1 per person each way to take the 15 minute ride across the straight to the island.

This man was going to a funeral on the island. You can see that the island is a caldera. It is a National Natural Landmark.

Rory was not familiar with the island and did not know how to find the trail to the rim of the caldera.  Helen decided to stay at the beach to collect shells.  View back toward Tutuila

while Rory and I passed through the village asking for directions.

We followed those directions but could not find the trail

After about half an hour, we returned through the village passing the funeral service taking place in the community Fale.  Found Helen at the beach and caught the next boat shuttle back to Tutuila.

Rory continued to give us information on the history of American Samoa as well as local customs as we drove back to Moana O Sina.  We agreed that I would pay him only half his stated fee.  I can’t believe Outside Magazine recommended this guy.  No boat, no snorkeling, no adventure!  I knew of potential snorkeling sites but did not know tides, conditions, etc.  We hired him for safety.

We did Chinese take-out of steamed dumplings with sweat and sour pork for dinner and then enjoyed the pools and sunset.

 

1/28 – leaving our bungalow

We started the morning by doing the 2 mile hike to Fogatelle Bay National Marine Sanctuary, had to pay the family at the head of the trail (where it states Gate on the map) $5 each for access.

Hiking the ridge section, where the sign states 4 WD Road

Overlook of Fogatelle Bay

This is the point where it states Chain and then the trail drops down to a small beach

There were a wide variety of birds in the rainforest

Last steps down to the beach, notice the small waterfalls

Another small waterfall entering the Bay – this would have been an outstanding spot for snorkeling had we brought equipment.

Close-up

See the lizard?

By the time we got back to the car we were both soaked with sweat from the temperature and high humidity.

Helen wanted a picture of this building

and columns

Celebrating a successful hike at Moana O Sina – we packed our things (after our 5 night stay) and then had to sit on the volcanic rocks and let the ocean spray cover us one last time.

Drove into Pago Pago for the 1pm show in the Tausse JP Sina Ocean Center.

The facility was finished in 2012 and is the administrative and educational center for the new and expanded National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa.

One of the features is a large sphere on which can be projected various views of the world as well as video programs.

Map showing the extent of the Marine Sanctuary

Went back to the town market so Helen could buy a wrap (cloth) to use as packing for a USPS Priority box sent to ourselves containing literature, clothes, sea glass, shells and rocks, $9 no weight limit.  The next stop was the post office to mail the box and some postcards.  This was our last opportunity to use the US mail until we returned to Hawaii in four weeks.

National Park boat, Rainmaker Mt (1718 ft) in background

Tuna boats

Local racing canoe

It took about a half hour to drive to Tisa’s Barefoot Bar at Alega Beach – located just left of center in photo

We were the only customers all afternoon. Note the glow of the fire left of center

“Candyman,” Tisa’s significant other, had started the fire on the sand floor at 2pm to heat the stones for the “Umu” or Samoan Feast that evening. He continuously fed the fire until 5pm.

This was a laid back fun place; Tisa even let me put my store bought beer in their ice chest!

We checked in and borrowed snorkel equipment to swim out to the reef.

Off to snorkel – Our Fale (room) was the open A frame right of center

We didn’t see any turtles

Tisa on the balcony of our Fale

The reef itself was not great but there was a nice variety of fish. Underwater camera did not do it justice

 

At 5pm, half coconut bowls with meat, seafood and vegetables were placed on the hot stones and coals and then covered with banana leaves. Our Fale was at the top of the three stairs

Candyman placing banana leaves. Our toilet and small sink were, right of center, behind bar

Our Fale – a thatched roof A frame completely open to the beach and ocean, was outfitted with a double bed, night stand, a single bed and a small table with two chairs.  The ocean view from the balcony was stunning.

Mosquito netting over bed

We shared the Umu with a group of trial lawyers that were putting on a workshop in Pago Pago.  Ready to do the peel (7:30pm) and get to that food

The “Feast” included bread fruit, octopus, shrimp, papaya, coconut, mango, sweet potato, fish, turkey, pork, etc.

Starting to serve

 

Some of the choices

Choices were placed on a large banana leaf (plate substitute).  Beer and hand sanitizer at top – you ate with your fingers Samoan style!

That evening we were the only people remaining after the owner Tisa and her companion Candyman left to sleep at their home because it was going to rain all night.  It rained most of the night, the only inconvenience was Helen going to the restroom, about 15 yards away, in the rain.  This is the route as seen in the morning. I didn’t have that problem given the open balcony.

 

1/29 – Morning has broken –

 

Candyman arrived and had our breakfast prepared for us at 8am.

Whole grain organic bread with bananas and a special banana sauce on top served on a banana leaf and excellent local coffee

We drove to the airport, returned the rental car and eventually boarded the small Polynesian Air plane for our 35min flight to Samoa, also referred to as Western Samoa, an independent country.

Fagatele Bay National Marine Sanctuary – Bye-Bye American Samoa, we would like to return some day –

This flight reservation (and hotel reservations) took careful planning because when we left it was January 29^th at 12:45pm.  When we landed 35 minutes later it was 2:20pm on January 30^th – we crossed a time zone and the international dateline.

Landed at Fagali’ airport, took a taxi to the Outrigger Hotel, sounds much better than it actually was, and then grabbed umbrellas to walk into Apia.  Ten minutes later the skies opened with torrential rain.  Umbrellas did no good and we had to call a taxi to take us to a nice Italian restaurant, Scalini’s, near our hotel. The umbrellas worked for the top half of our body as we walked back to the hotel but our legs and shoes got soaked as we walked through the water overflowing the culverts and flowing down the road.
1/31 – [Samoa date] Had a “tropical” breakfast at the hotel

Then took a taxi to the Robert Louis Stevenson home/museum on top of a hill overlooking the island and ocean. Two of his most famous works are Treasure Island and Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hide.

Fireplace was just for decoration, guide did a nice job for us and one other couple – no shoes allowed

Mats on floor and interesting Samoan mat wall covering

He only lived here 4 years.  He died at 44 and was buried on top of Mt Vaea, now a Scenic Reserve adjacent to the estate.

 

Attractive gardens surrounding house

Portrait of Stevenson, safe and bear rug

Samoan sculpture on veranda

Taxied to the Flea Market in Apia where we purchased some gifts for family and friends

 

 

Walked past the Fish Market and harbor where some fishing boats were off-loading their catch

Notice their taped hands

Clock Tower, just right of stoplight, was built in memory of those that died in World War I

Samoan Tourist Authority built in the shape of a Fale.  The statue is across the street from the cathedral

Muliva Catholic Cathedral

Beautiful woodworked ceiling with traditional designs. We observed a funeral service for about 20min and then picked up our bags and headed for the Faleolo Airport about 22 miles west of Apia.

Our Air New Zealand flight took 4 hours and we landed about 7pm.  Bob & Sue picked us up at the airport and drove us through Auckland to their large/modern apartment.  We immediately fell into friendly conversation as if we had seen each other just yesterday – though it had been 25 years ago!