Archive for the ‘Sri Lanka’ Category

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Tom’s University Presentation

March 26, 2008

Helen – As mentioned, we are staying in a home in Kandy just up from Kandy Lake.  Ananda and Shenani let out rooms now that their two children are in college.  Their daughter is in law school in Colombo and their son is at Lafayette College in PA studying engineering.

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 Tom decided that he would go to the university in the morning to prepare for his first presentation “Fitness for Life” to university faculty/students and get caught up on email.  He also worked on his Wittenberg email again but to no avail (ITs were of no help).  He came home for lunch, picked me up and we returned to the university where he was scheduled for an organizational meeting with Raj.  I was hoping to have a couple of hours on the internet while he was at the meeting.  The meeting was supposed to be with Raj but his wife was there and they asked me to attend as well; there goes my computer time!!

Tom’s new schedule includes tonight’s presentation, a three hour workshop and a two-day workshop for next week.  Then during the following week he will do the introduction for the women’s workshop and give three hours of instruction over three continuous days to the physiology/physical education faculty and interested sport medicine physicians.  He refused to do a second two-day workshop and a workshop for monks at their monastery.  I was asked to do a 3 hour morning session with the women on exercise and walking, then in the afternoon Tom would present nutrition and some exercise theory.  However, Shamila said she was doing body composition and another faculty member was doing nutrition, so I don’t know how this will work out.  I will also be advising one or more instructors on the Fitness Walking Class this week and perhaps having a session on a Fitness Through Swimming class the following week.  This university has a 50 m outdoor pool and I think the only class offered is beginning swimming.  These assignments cover the next two and a half weeks and lucky for us the next week is a national holiday for the new year when, we are told, the country shuts down.

Tom and Raj left to prepare for his presentation while Shamila and I stayed to discuss the women’s workshop and to meet the aerobic person (Gota) from the PE department (who will be teaching the walking class eventually).  Shamila was saying that she thought all the women should have their % body fat taken (because she can do this) and I disagreed with her.  I said why would women want to know that they are (probably) obese, it would only make them feel worse about themselves.  She seems to be a little flabby but goes to this exercise class several times a week which Gota teaches and feels she is making strides.  She mentions that she has 35% body fat and I ask her what does this mean.  She just looks at me and I explain that for women 18-25% is recommended, 25-32% is over fat, and that she is obese.  Then I ask her how she feels about that???   She is stunned, never dreaming she was at that level.  This is going to be a difficult program because she wants me to present what she wants and not what I think is appropriate.

Tom’s presentation went very well and was well received.  Many of the doctors attended the session because they are interested in the sport science area.  This area of sport science is new here because most people think body building is the way to physical fitness and changing this misconception will take some time.  The lecture went from 4:30 – 6 and then those that didn’t want to ask questions during the session, kept Tom outside for another hour with their questions.  That’s right, we had to drive home in the dark again and that makes both of us pretty nervous.

After dinner, which was left over pasta salad from lunch, we repacked things to bring back to Colombo which we wouldn’t be using in Kandy.  We also had to pack an overnight bag because we were returning to Colombo for a Fulbright presentation and reception which was the next day (Thursday).  We also decided that we would do Adam’s Peak on our way back to Kandy Saturday night.  We were in bed early to rest up for the 4 hour drive back to Colombo.

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First Full Day in Kandy

March 25, 2008

Helen – This morning we were out by 6:15 to walk around the lake which is about 2 miles.  It is a lovely area with cormorants, pelicans, ducks, and bats (see picture).  

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 There is a dirt/concrete block path for walking but for most of the way is right next to a road which is heavily congested with cars and trucks.  The fumes made walking quite uncomfortable and we decided to try an earlier time the next day.  After breakfast, Tom went back to the university for several meetings and I stayed home to walk to Food City (about 1 mile away just off the lake trail) with my back pack for supplies.  While I was gone, Shenani cleaned out a cupboard for me so I had my own space in the kitchen.  I was able to do laundry while disinfecting the vegetables and preparing tonight’s dinner and lunch for the next day.

 I expected Tom home for dinner about 6 but he called to say he would be late because he again had problems setting up his computer at the university (same problem as at Ruhuna) and to expect him about 6:30-7.  I began worrying about 7 because it was dark, and he came about 7:30; the traffic was still bad and he made a few wrong turns.

As he went over his day, it was evident that they wanted to overwork him – with two two-day workshops and five one-day workshops in 10 days!  Shamila wanted him to give one all day workshop to a group of women (her exercise group and perhaps others in the community) who wanted to lose weight.  He seemed a little down so I suggested that maybe I could help with the women’s group.  He was really hoping not to involve me in this part of the grant so I would have more free time to explore the area with Shenani. 

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Elephant Orphanage

March 24, 2008

Helen – We were up at 5, packed the car, had breakfast, and were on the road by 6 for the three hour drive to Peradeniya which will be our new home for the next four weeks.  Everyone said that this road was much easier to drive than the one between Matara and Colombo, they lied because it was just as bad if not worse.  Road construction makes everyone crazy, including Tom, vying for position and trying to gain an advantage.  I was knitting, trying to keep my stomach from knotting up, when I heard a scraping noise. I looked out my side window to see a red three wheeler RIGHT there.  I say, ”OH MY GOD!!” and Tom asked did he touch the Tuk Tuk??  I answered, “Of course you did!”  Well, that makes three for three with the car repairs…..it seems as soon as the car is looking good, he does something to it…the first accident was on the way home from getting the car (hit the motorcycle), the second was barely a week after the repair (the palm tree), and now the first road trip after the last repair.  All I can say is that I am glad it isn’t our car!!!

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We actually gave ourselves more time than needed and therefore decided to stop and see the Pinnawala elephant orphanage which was supposed to be on the way. According to the map, it was just off the road but in reality it was at least 35 minutes up a bumpy dirt road.  Again our resident visas saved us money on the entrance fees.  All foreigners pay $10/ person and we paid 50 cents.  This orphanage is run by the Department of National Zoological Gardens and the elephants never get to leave unlike the Elephant Transit facility we saw in Uda Walawa which is run by the Department of Wildlife and where the elephants are placed in national parks when they turn four. 

 The elephants were brought up to a bare area where they were fed tree branches and the caretakers encouraged you to go stand with the elephants for pictures (so they could get tips).  There was a sign at the entrance which said to be careful as ALL the elephants were not tame!!  

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 There were two which were chained to trees; one of them was a large old tusker (you don’t see many of these) which was blind. 

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 After a few minutes there, the elephants were taken to the water hole for their baths and that was interesting. 

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 Several of them would submerge themselves and then others would step on them and hold them under!!!  All you could see of the one submerged would be his trunk like a periscope!!!  It was much better to see them in the wild than to be exploited like this.  Notice the elephant on the left has one of its lower legs missing – the result of a land mine.

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This part of Tom’s assignment is with the Department of Physiology of the Medical Faculty rather than the Physical Education Department.  The Department of Physiology is trying to establish certificate and diploma programs in Exercise and Sports Science. They include the Physical Education Department for the activity part.

  We made it to the university right on time for our 1:00 meeting with Raj the Professor in physiology who will be our main contact.  He invited his wife, Shamila, to come and meet us (she works in the same department) and then they took us to the first rental possibility.  It was a house which a former professor owns but has not been used for about three years.  He is currently in Australia.  The house is close to the university, though nothing seems close because the roads are really hilly, narrow and full of ruts which makes driving time long.  It was a large two story home with five bedrooms and a terrible kitchen.  They had new appliances (stove with oven, refrigerator, and washer) which were still in their cartons and needed to be installed.  The smell was awful and it needed a lot of cleaning!!!!  Raj said that we should look at a few of the university possibilities and then make up our mind but first had to return his wife to campus because she had a class.

Our next two viewings were hotels which were converted into university guesthouses so that meant you got one room and then could use the lobby as well.  They were owned by the university and I would be permitted to use the kitchen in the first one (I don’t think so!), but when other renters were there you lost any privacy you would have had.  The next was similar but had no kitchen facilities.  A third was privately owned but had the same problems.  All three were located in the hills quite a distance from the school and I would be left there alone unless I went with Tom each morning.  The fourth location was a hotel above a store and restaurant nearer town.  Again it would not work out for a longer stay.  Finally, he suggested a private guest arrangement in Kandy, the larger city about 20 minutes (without traffic!) from the university.  He said a professor rented out three rooms and perhaps that might meet our needs. 

It was a lovely home built 12 years ago and located just above the lake which is in the center of the city.  The professor was also a medical doctor, specialty nuclear imaging, so he worked at the university and a nearby hospital.  His wife, Shenani, stayed at home and their two children were in college, their son at Lafayette College in Pennsylvania and their daughter studying law in Colombo.  With an empty nest, this would work out best for us even though Tom would have to commute.  Shenani and I have many interests in common so I am looking forward to spending time with her.  They both speak English well because they spent two years in CA.

Since Raj had driven us we had to return to campus to get our car.  The traffic was horrific!!!  It took us nearly an hour for the return trip and meanwhile he missed picking up his wife and two children (3 and 4 ½) from daycare.  Our return trip to Kandy was now at dusk (not a good thing with Tom’s bad night vision with the new lens) and the traffic was still just as bad.  I took a picture of a rainbow as we turned onto Kandy Lake Drive. 

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 We finally made it back about 6 o’clock and were thankful when they invited us to eat dinner with them.  We shared a bottle of wine with them and our showers and bed never felt so good!!

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Easter Sunday

March 23, 2008

 Helen –  We went to church at 8:15 for the English mass and then spent most of the day repacking our things, deciding what to leave here and what to take with us to our new location.  Tom made dinner reservations at the Cinnamon Grand Hotel (a really plush and beautiful place) for the Lagoon Restaurant.  They have a very large pond filled with beautiful large carp and two outdoor restaurants, one on each side of the lagoon.  The setting is especially charming at night and after you order your drinks and starter, you go into the restaurant to the fresh fish table and pick out your dinner and how you wish to have it prepared.  We shared a delicious dessert and then went inside to the grand lobby to listen to the band.  They played current music and we even jitterbugged to one song.  Afterwards, several people said we were very good!!

Tom – the pictures are of VJ cutting grass,

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Irene cooking on a wood fired clay stove,

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Ciani smoking for mosquitoes,

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and Ruki going out.

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Return of Favor and Badminton

March 22, 2008

Helen – We took Tracy and her daughter Charya to dinner for being so nice with the transportation to and from the airport for our India trip.  Mano, her husband, couldn’t make it and Charya chose a Chinese restaurant named Kinjou which is her favorite dining place.

 Tom – I took a walk this morning and passed the Sport Ministry Badminton center.  They had a couple of cool Badminton billboards – see picture.

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Good Friday

March 21, 2008

 Mendin Poya Day; Good Friday – Helen  I stayed at Ruki’s during the day finishing a book while Tom ran errands.  He went to pick up the car and the repair (remember the palm tree incident??) only cost him $32.  This is the place to be if you are banging up your car!!  As he left the auto place he said, “I have been here twice to pay my rental fee and twice to have the damages repaired.  The third time should be a charm and no more accidents.”  Remember this quote!!  He also went to the Fulbright and the Chinese Embassy (to get visas for our next trip) and did some shopping as well.  He made it back in time to attend 5:15 Good Friday services at St. Theresa.  See the pictures; the masses are said in three languages and the paintings depict Sri Lankan figures.

  

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 We ordered Pizza Hut pineapple/cheese pizza for dinner.

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Chokhi Dhani Ethnic Village

March 15, 2008

 Helen  This is the traveling day from Sri Lanka to Jaipur, India.  It is another one of those long days on planes, airports, and cars.  We drove to the Colombo airport with Traci and her family in the chauffeured van and met the other travelers at the airport.  With parking being such a problem in Colombo, Mano, Traci’s husband, decided it was better to rent a vehicle with a driver rather than just a car and drive it himself as we do.

 We had to fill out departure forms at the airport and as I was doing it I came to the visa number…I said, ”I am not giving my visa number to anyone; why do they need it?”  Tom replies, “they mean the visa number from your passport for India not your credit card!!”  I can tell already that it is going to be a long trip.  It was a 2.5 hour flight to Bombay (Mumbai) with a four hour layover there and then another 1.5 hour flight to Jaipur.  We will be staying at the Chokhi Dhani ,Ethnic Village Resort, a 5 star hotel about 3 miles out of town; it is a lovely complex arranged as a village with rooms located around the grounds. 

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Our room is isolated on a second level with a circular room and private balcony.

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Sounds quite plush and really is with a few problems, the main one being that the toilet tank leaks and we are constantly standing in water while we take care of business there.  The air conditioner is quite loud, but hey we have it, and it reminds us of the rolling ocean of our beach home in Matara.  One interesting thing is that when we open the balcony doors in the morning, before it gets too hot, we often have visiting sparrows come into our room for brief stays. It is not always easy to get these visitors to leave when we have to lock up the room when we go out. The main door is wooden with two sides which you pull together then take the chain and insert it over the hook and finally lock it with a big brass lock and key.

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When we arrived at the complex, there was a dinner waiting for us even though it was after 10 pm.  We thought we would grab just a bite, but ended up eating quite a bit and it was delicious.  The food here is not spicy and we enjoy the various tastes.

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Visa Fiasco

March 14, 2008

Tom – It has been a nightmare going through the Fulbright office for our trip to India.  I have had to jump through hoops to do a ridiculous amount of work related to both my presentation and the visa application.  Every time I finished one task, there was another hurdle.  The program form, including abstract of the presentation, autobiography, and special size digital photo was over five pages long.  The Fulbright office has had our passports since we arrived!  I have had to fill out the lengthy visa applications twice (Fulbright gave me the wrong ones the first time around), obtain special sized photos (two to be pasted on the same page – go figure), and get the info back to the office immediately!  Yet, as of this morning, the office had not obtained our visas; we leave tomorrow morning! 

I spent most of the day at the Fulbright office shepherding the process.  I turned in the money for Helen’s plane ticket three weeks ago but had to wait until 3:30 this afternoon to have their travel agent bring the tickets to the office.  The travel arrangements and costs from Jaipur to Agra are still not settled and we take that trip leaving at 5am on Sunday!   Lots of complaining here, in the end, I think it will all be worth it.

We took Ruki to dinner at the Xilation Chinese restaurant.  We are getting our tummies ready for our trip to China!  She is working on finding us a house to rent in Kandy.  She has been a great asset for us.   

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Goodbye S.K. Town, Hello Stilt Fishermen

March 13, 2008

Tom – Last Morning S.K. Town Beach – We were up at 6am, beach walked, said goodbye to the locals, breakfast on the patio feeding the fish, frog and crabs in the pond and packed the car (did I ever, how are we going to get the pottery, shells, Fibretec dishes, gifts, etc. home?), showered, paid the rent (Kamala brought us curd in a pottery dish and snacks for the car), visited briefly with Kanthi (brought us a Sri Lankan picture book in English),

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Nicole (gave her food items we could not take) and Rachel (gave her the turtle shell and some eggs), stopped at the ATM and started the drive to Colombo at 10am. 

View driving into Matara on our way to Colombo

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It took us 4.25 hours of tense driving to reach Colombo.  That’s 96 miles averaging 22.6 mph and it feels like you’re going 50-60 mph.  You drive on the left side of the road (remnant of 150 years of British rule).  I have to constantly remind myself of where I should be on the road, especially when turning.  There are very few traffic signals (even in Colombo), probably because most drivers just slow down and proceed through.  Most roads are one lane in each direction with pot holes and other unmarked road hazards.  It is not uncommon to have a bus, truck, motorcycle and bicycle coming directly at you – yes, it’s like a wall coming at you and it might even be as you are going around a curve!  I have had to pull off the road many times, providing there is someplace to go.  Sometimes I stop as far left as possible and hope someone doesn’t hit me.  In traffic, it’s the law of the bumper – if you get your bumper in front of someone else, you can cut them off.  Three times my side view mirrors have hit bicyclists/motorcycles who have moved into me.  There are also parked vehicles, Tuk-Tuks, people and animals on the road and/or on both sides of the road.  Buses are the worst; they just blast their horns, flash their lights and pass into oncoming traffic.   You just have to get out of their way.  To make things worse, Helen is constantly putting her foot through the floor and yelling “Oh my God!”

On a lighter side, I did get a few pictures of the stilt fishermen today.

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Kids getting out of school in small town

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Helen – I was so glad to get out of that car!!!  I am glad that the morning was rushed because my mind was on something else, rather than leaving.  After the walk, Tom had to walk to the corner store to get milk for our cereal and coffee.  I meanwhile threw the sheets in the washer and began sweeping the floors.  The advantage to having a smaller home with few things in it is that these chores are quickly accomplished.

 I had my last swim in the ocean with Nicole and Rachel yesterday afternoon and Tom had his last swim just before dinner near sunset.  We have gotten into the habit of watching the sunsets from the plank deck sitting on the wall.  They have been beautiful.  Earlier we were haphazard about it and now wish we were more serious about it.  They have been magnificent with the palms silhouetted against the sky.  It was also nice shaking hands with the people on the beach.  Usually we just wave to each other and say morning or “aayu-bowan,” but this morning the handshake was more personal and we told them that this was our last day here.  It has been fun seeing them each morning and when we were away, they always were glad to see us again.  The tides have been getting stronger and will continue to do so until the rainy season comes in another month.  With these stronger tides, the beach has been swept cleaner and it reminded us of our first days on it when everything looked so pristine.  We originally planned to return here with Tom’s brother, Pat, when he visits in April, but we may change our minds and explore the northern beaches which we have not seen.

Returning to Colombo and Ruki was almost like going to a parent’s home.  They were awaiting our return with clean rooms and open arms.  Tom returned the car to have his door repaired (remember that palm tree incident?) and to leave it there while we are in India.  That week rental should pay for the repairs!!

When he returned, we watched an Indian film, Earth, about the bloodshed (over a million people died) and changes that took place when Britain granted India independence in 1947.  The British rule was over and now the internal religious groups were fighting for control.  Sri Lanka won its independence one year later from Britain.

Not wanting to go out for dinner, Ruki and we ordered pizza!!!  It was our first since we came and we couldn’t decide whether to get Pizza Hut (they have Dominos also) or another called Harpo (which her daughter prefers) so we got one of each.  What a treat!!!  I liked the PH Hawaiian pizza with pineapple, but must admit that the other one which was more like a folded pizza (calzone) was really tasty with the spinach and mushrooms. Our tummies were full and satisfied as well as happy!!!

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Morning Glow

March 12, 2008

Tom – There was a nice glow this morning as the sun rose on us during our beach walk.

 

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About 8:30 Ghana and her husband brought us a Sri Lankan breakfast.  Like the one that Sarath gave us last week, it was way too much and we gave a large part of it to Luke and Nicole at the hotel.  They also called and came over last night with their son and daughter to bring us going away gifts (e.g. necklace for Helen, small Sri Lankan flag).  The shirt for me and dress for Helen were too small but we dare not mention it for fear that a good chunk of time today would have to be spent on doing an exchange.  As they left, each knelt in front of us, bowed, touched our feet, and gave us the Buddhist peace sign.  We were embarrassed and in awe but they assured us that this was their tradition.  All of the last minute (unplanned) attention that we are getting is nerve wracking as we are trying to pack to leave and also prepare to go to India.  We are truly thankful for the thoughtfulness and attention but cannot understand why they have waited till the last minute to make these connections.  Further, we really do not like them spending their money on us – they do not have enough as it is!  By the same token, we understand that this makes the gifts extra-special.

 Helen – talk about unwanted company!!!!  A tiny kitten, really sweet and good tempered, has found us as well.  The first day I tried to ignore her, but her constant mewing finally got to me and yesterday I sneaked a bowl of milk to her in the outside kitchen.  You know that now means she is not leaving and has caused havoc to our lives.  Last night I fed her milk and bread and forgot the milk outside so it was sour this morning for our coffee!!!  Also, when we woke this morning, she was in our bedroom.  Seems she can jump pretty high and came in our bedroom window which was open with the wooden slates to prevent people entry.  Now she is constantly coming in whenever a door or window is open and she just cries as she rubs against your ankles.  What to do???

 Took a break from packing to go out and look at the pond.  I noticed a strange brown head peeking out of the water and called Tom to bring the camera thinking it was the turtle.  I motioned to him to be quiet and walk softly so as not to scare it off.  As Tom steps outside, the head emerges from the water and it is that huge lizard.  It really caught us by surprise and now I am worried that it has eaten our fish and frog!

I just rechecked the pond, and thank heavens, I saw the frog!!!  I was worried about him!!  He is the brightest green and our favorite pond critter!