The Martin's Blog

2/9 – Great morning view from our vacation house

Had breakfast in Manapouri, this is the view from across the street, then went back to the house and prepared for our overnight cruise to Doubtful Sound.

Map showing Manapouri (start of cruise on Lake Manapouri, West Arm (end of lake cruise), bus route over Wilmot Pass, and Deep Cove (start of cruise on Doubtful Sound)

Ready to board

Ate our left over spaghetti from the night before for lunch and boarded the boat to take us across Lake Manapouri at noon.  We were told our cruise boat, the Fiordland Navigator, was under repair in Christmas Cove of Doubtful Sound.  As a result, our cruise boat to the West Arm of Lake Manapouri extended its tour time on the Lake by over an hour.

Start of lake cruise

 

 

Captain

Anxious to get to our Doubtful Sound cruise boat, we actually became bored as the captain drove into various coves and pointed out numerous waterfalls

 

 

 

Interesting “Spider” rock formation

Passing another cruise boat on Lake Manapouri

Approaching “Giraffe” – do you see it?

 

We eventually landed at West Arm and then were taken by coach over Wilmot Pass to Deep Cove.  The bus driver was excellent – he was clear, articulate, descriptive, informative and funny as he kept us entertained on the 50 minute ride.

We also had three short stops on route. This is the view from Wilmot Pass to West Arm

Waterfall on route

Huge ferns

 Arriving at Deep Cove, we learned that the Fiordland Navigator was not yet repaired and that another small cruise boat, like on Lake Manapouri, would be doing the afternoon cruise and then dropping us off at the Navigator. The scenery was fantastic as we moved down the Sound to the Tasman Sea.

Technically, a Sound is formed by a river and a Fiord is formed by a glacier.  However, though Doubtful “Sound” was formed by a glacier it is still called a Sound.

It is one of New Zealand’s largest sounds (3 times the length and 10 times the area of Milford). NZ Flag, they are now considering changing it, perhaps eliminating the British Union Jack part.

It is a wilderness area of fractured and gouged mountains, dense forest and thundering waterfalls.

 

 

In 1770, Captain Cook labeled it Doubtful Sound because he thought that if he sailed into the Sound he would have trouble getting out.  We were told that the captain was right because, on average, there is a westerly breeze only two days a month!

Another Selfie

Approaching the Tasman Sea (ocean)

Plaque recognizes an early Spanish landing, sign points to Marine Reserve and a seal lounges on the rocks

As we moved into the swells and wind of the ocean it became quite rough and the boat turned to head back up the Sound.

 

We proceeded to Christmas Bay where we found the Fiordland Navigator repaired and ready to be boarded.

“Designed along the lines of a traditional scow, the Fiordland Navigator blends old world charm with modern comforts that include spacious viewing decks, a dining saloon/fully licensed bar and an observation lounge.”

Boarded boat to boat at 5pm – it sleeps 70

 

We were immediately given a safety briefing, assigned cabins and told to prepare for water activities.  I chose to kayak and Helen did the outboard boat tour. The next three pictures were from the water camera and again are not very good.

 

Returning to the boat

The last rays of sunlight for the day filter through an arm of Doubtful Sound

Three course gourmet buffet dinner prepared by onboard chef

My first plate full!  !  The evening ended with a nice slide show describing Fiordland National Park.

 

2/10 – The engines started at 6:15am and we were up for breakfast at 7:15.

It was cold as we explored other areas of Doubtful Sound

Mountains, water, waterfalls and clear, crisp, clean air!  Oh that we could breathe it every day –

Clouds and mist were spectacular.

Ben, Adele, Cameron (10) and Oliver (8) from London shared our table for the gourmet dinner the previous evening.  Afterward, Helen taught Cameron and Oliver how to play Farkle, which was a big hit. Here they are in the morning with Helen introducing them to a type of solitaire. They had quit their jobs, rented their home and were on a year-long around the world adventure!

Cameron and Oliver

We also met Pat and Karen from CO onboard. Here we are showing off our Eddie Bauer fleece jackets!

Reversing our course and heading back. Landed at Deep Cove, traced our route back over Wilmot Pass to the West Arm of Lake Manapouri on the bus and then repeated the 50 minute boat ride back to Manapouri arriving at noon.

Goodbye to our new friends!

Had lunch in Te Anau and headed north on the Milford Road Highway.  Another beautiful day!  The next two photos were taken along the Eglinton River Valley

 

I had planned to do three short hikes on our trip from Manapouri to Milford.  However, because of the excellent weather, we decided to hike to Key Summit, the highpoint of the Routeburn Track.

The trail begins at the divide parking lot and is estimated at 3 hours return

 

Watch your head!

Mt Christina

Moving-up, looking back

Key Summit – Lake Marian, a glacial tarn, can be seen right center in the bowl

Helen decided to start her descent before me. She didn’t want to wait as I took pictures. She followed a couple on a spur nature trail and couldn’t figure out where I had gone. I descended the regular trail, didn’t see her and didn’t find her at the bottom. She got to the car park about a half hour later and was upset with me for having passed (left?) her – go figure! Returning to car

 

Alpine Wetland

 

This flower is called a Gentium – 93% of over 600 native alpine plants are unique to NZ. This area also has two carnivorous or meat eating plants!

Stoat/Weasel/Ferret Trap – these are all predators that were introduced in NZ to control the rodents that were also introduced from ships.   The problem was/is that they prey on NZ’s flightless birds (Kiwi, Takahe, Weka, etc.). We saw many of these traps during our hikes

Hollyford River Valley

Driving west toward Milford

Little rainbow, lower left

Looking east from the east entrance to Homer Tunnel

Weeping Wall – waterfalls everywhere, I can only imagine what it is like when it is raining. We had exceptional good weather throughout Firordland. On average, it rains 200 days per year here!

The Homer Tunnel goes 0.75 mile through Darran Mountain

Arriving in Milford, we discovered that our room in the Milford Sound Lodge was not up to our expectations with the toilets and showers 100 ft from our room. Sent a Happy Birthday text to Brad – our 10th was his 9th in the U.S.!

 

2/11 – Started the day by doing the Milford (Piopiotahi) Foreshore Walk – this is Milford Sound

Yet another waterfall

Two shore birds

Sunrise on Mitre Peak

Had a breakfast of coffee, cheese and crackers as we drove to our next short trail at the Chasm

 

 

 

What happens if you miss a curve

Kea – the world’s only alpine parrot, another of NZ’s endangered birds

This may be a Kaka, pictures were taken in the same parking lot

After passing back through the Homer Tunnel we did the 30 min trail to the gantry at Marian Falls

 

 

 

Then drove another half hour to the trailhead for Humboldt Falls

Dead stoat on road – one of the animals that are killing NZ’s birds

Start of trail through rainforest to falls

Hollyford River

Humboldt Falls – 900 ft drop

Sign showing our route on the Milford Road

Next stop was Mirror Lakes, the boardwalk through beech forest took us to some great views

Earl Mountains

Why they call them Mirror Lakes!

 

Life –

 

 

Stopped in Te Anua for gas, a sandwich and a picture of their Takahe statue

We picked up a German backpacker outside of Te Anau and dropped him off at Rt 6 as he was on his way to Invercargill. Lake Wakatiput on our way to Queenstown –

Outside of Queenstown we picked up another hitch-hiker who had just done a traverse of the Remarkable Mountains east of the city.  We drove him into town and then found our accommodations at the Nomads Youth Hostel – yes, these old folks stayed at several youth hostels!

Queenstown beach, Remarkable Mountains in background

 

Frisbee play at Queenstown downtown Mall

Interesting water fountain

We rushed to clean two days of dirt from our bodies and then boarded the coal/steam fired 100 year old TSS Earnslaw.

It took about an hour to cross Lake Wakatipu

A photographer in a Real Journey’s helicopter (right center in picture) took promotional photos as we steamed across the lake

Our destination – Walter Peak Farm

 

Our Gourmet BBQ Dinner consisted of all you could eat local produce – salads, vegetables, meats and seafood

 

Followed by a wide array of dessert options

After dinner we were treated to a sheep dog demonstration – rounding up and bringing in sheep using various whistles, followed by a sheep-shearing demonstration

 

 

TSS Earnslaw returning for pick-up

Diagram of steamship’s interior

Departing for Queenstown – the entire Walter Peak Farm cruise, dining and demonstration experience took four hours

Happy passengers

There was a sing along with pianist in the stern as we polluted the air on our way back to Queenstown

 

2/12 – After a bagel, muffin and coffee at Fergbaker in Queenstown we drove to scenic Wanaka.  Stopped at the Visitor Center, took a short stroll along the lake, ate a sandwich and gassed up.  Wanaka beach –

Helen was grouchy because she said we didn’t spend enough time in Queenstown.  So, I cut our 1.5 hr Mt Iron hike and substituted a half hour stop at Salvation Army to improve her disposition.  She bought a pair of red capris, four orange napkins and a very cool hand carved wooden bowl with braided lip (perhaps from the Cook Islands).  Here are a couple of more pictures from the lake front –

 

Bought gas in Whataroa just so we could clean the windows on the car.
While at the gas station we met a cyclist we had passed a few times on the road.  He was from South Dakota and was carrying an American flag on the pole he was using for his Go-Pro.  He was on the last half of his 5 month cycle around New Zealand.

Lake Hawea

Screening protecting fruit trees

Scenery along Rt 6

 

After crossing Haast Pass we stopped for a short walk to Fantail Falls – creative people built a series of cairn like markers with river stone

Not far down the road we did another short walk through kamahi and silver beech forest to Thunder Creek Falls

This was our next stop along the Haast River

An enjoyable walk through a podocarp/silver beech rainforest

Lush tree ferns

Roaring Billy Falls

Aquamarine Haast River

Stopped at the Haast Visitor Center – on the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island

Decided to take a picture of a stuffed Kiwi, since it was unlikely we will see the real thing

Dropped off our bags at the Haast Holiday Beach Park and then did the Hapuka Estuary Loop Walk.  The vegetation here continues to amaze me.

Boardwalk through the intertidal zone

Lush vegetation

Heading toward Jackson Bay – the largest economic industry in NZ is raising sheep.  The second largest is dairy exports

Didn’t see any Penguins

Jackson Bay

Drove to the end of the road and did the Wharekai Te Kou Walk to Ocean Beach

Hike through wildlife refuge

Ocean Beach – Helen collected more shells

 

Another view of Jackson Bay

Shore birds

 

Four hundred settlers landed here in 1875 but the settlement was not successful due to harsh conditions

Grave of Claude Morton Dllibier who died onboard the schooner “Ada” August 27, 1862.  I hope he knows that I put him in our blog –

Ate at the well-known “Cray Pot” (converted trailer), the only place to eat in Jackson Bay

I had a large crayfish (type of lobster) and Helen had a blue nose (groper family) – another outstanding meal!

We shared our table with Helen and Greg who were sheep farmers from south of Perth Australia.

 

2/13 – Nothing was open as we left tiny Haast at 7:30.  We shared a gas fill-up with two girls from Canada.  They knew their pin for the unmanned gas station and filled-up first.  Then I continued for another $36 NZ.  Stopped at Ship Creek for two short hikes. It appeared to be a newly developed area.

Are you ready for this mouthful?  These walks were in the Te Wahipounau South West New Zealand World Heritage Area and the Tauparikaka Marairai Reserve!

The first was along the ocean – Dune Lake Walk

The second was up Ship Creek – Kahikatea Swamp Forest Walk

 

New tree ferns start as tight little spirals uncurling as they grow

 

The Kahikatea are NZ’s tallest trees, they interlock their roots to keep them upright in the boggy conditions

 

Driving along the west coast of the South Island along the Tasman Sea

Picture taken at Knights Point

Upon arriving in Fox Glacier (west side of Mt Cook) we drove up South Glacier View Road and hiked to the Glacier Viewpoint.

 

 

We then returned to Rt 6, crossed the Fox River and drove the Fox Glacier Access Rd to the parking lot

The hike was 1hr return with much up hill to the furthest view point

 

Lots of people here, with many taking helicopter rides and some landing up on the glacier

Toe of Fox Glacier

Start of Fox River

Formerly glacier now Fox River Valley

Built up a hardy appetite on the hikes and decided to have a large plate of mussels in town.  We then drove toward the coast to get a view of the upper Fox Glacier

View of Mt Cook as we drove toward the entrance to Franz Josef Glacier

We did all three of these hikes

Started up the trail and decided to first do the hike up to a view point on Sentinel Rock.  The glacier filled the entire valley in 1845 – see display at bottom of photo.

This is what it looked like in 1950, compare to today – previous photo

We continued on the trail, now called the Forest Walk to Glacier View (30 min return).  At that point, the trail continues on the riverbed for an additional 1.5 hrs return.

It is relatively flat for the first 30 min until you get to Trident Falls.

Heading up –

Like Fox Glacier – lots of tourists

High Five with display ranger – we made it!

Remnant of glacier covered in scree – see blue of ice (cave)

Hiking back down the valley

 

Ice cubes anyone?

When we returned to the car, Helen continued working on her stitching while I did an additional 25 min return trail to Peters Pool for a great view up the valley to the glacier.

We stopped at the Visitor Center in Franz Josef for park information as well as a nice pamphlet on the water trail we did the next day in Okarito.  I guess we did see penguins –

Arrived in Okarito about 7pm – Okarito Wharf

Then checked into a “Hutel” (small house) at the Okarito Beach House

No stores or restaurants here – Mac & Cheese and a beer for dinner!

 

2/14 – Valentine’s Day – we started the day with a two hour kayak paddle on Okarito Lagoon.  The water trails here were the first ones in NZ.  Helen and I paddled singles and three other couples had doubles.  We were not a group, we each did our own thing.  Our paddle was in the Mataitai Reserve.

I only took three pictures because that was all I had left on my disposable water camera, hence the poor quality of these photos.  We saw a good number of birds but would have liked to see more.

We paddled up the Okarito Lagoon following markers and then up Tidal Creek to a small pool.  A couple of other kayaks were there about the same time and while I continued up the creek until it became too shallow, Helen decided to follow one of the kayaks back thinking I had already started my return.  Long story short, according to Helen I left her again and she was upset.   When I got back to the Lagoon, I saw Helen some distance out and thought she saw me.  As a result, I decided to take a more difficult route back following the shore.  I did have to get out a pull my kayak through a couple of places but it was great fun.

Upon return, Helen decided that she was not interested in doing any hiking.  So, she stayed behind, did laundry and socialized with Laura who runs the Beach House.  I started out at 11:45 for the Okarito Coastal Walk and Three Mile Pack Track loop.  You need to do the Coastal Walk within 2 hours of low tide.

Low tide was at 1:40

Some birds along the way –

I believe this is an Oystercatcher/Torea

There were only four or five spots where I needed to move higher on the rocks to avoid getting wet

The coast off this point is in the Waiau Glacier Coast Marine Reserve

I met one hiking group of three coming the other way and asked one of them to take my picture.

The loop is advertised as 3.5 hrs return with a length of 9.8 km (about 6 miles)

It was a lovely walk and I reached Three Mile Lagoon and the suspension bridge at 1:15

 

After some snacks, water and cleaning the sand out of my socks and shoes I was off on the Three Mile Pack Track.

This is actually the road that was used in the late 1800’s to move goods from the port of Okarito to points south.  I only met two couples on this part of the hike.  There was a lot of up and down without any good views of the beach/rocks.  If I were to do this again, I would go both ways on the beach.

Picture of a cool dragon fly –

Toward the end of the Three Mile Pack Track I also did the Okarito Trig Walk (extra 40 min return) to a great view north toward the Okarito Lagoon

East toward the Southern Alps, unfortunately the tops of the mountains were clouded in

South toward Three Mile Lagoon

While walking back through Okarito, I took a few pictures of interesting buildings

 

 

 

After returning to the Hutel, I showered and then Helen and I did the Pakihi Walk (30 min return), which takes you to a good view of the Okarito Lagoon.  I had canned spaghetti and Helen had the equivalent of Rice-a-Roni for dinner – not very exciting for Valentine’s Day.  We decided we would have a good dinner the next day!  Walked the beach after dinner and discovered an injured fur seal – we were sad we had no way of helping it, though Helen did have a local notify the DOC (Department of Conservation).  The DOC is New Zealand’s equivalent of our Department of the Interior.

 

There was a beautiful sunset –

 

 

 

2/15 – I took an early morning walk on the beach to check out the seal.   The mountain tops were visible to the east

The fur seal had moved during the night and was still alive – hope he made it

Driving North on Rt 6

Stopped to do the Mananui Bush Walk 9km south of Hokitika

Trail passed through coastal forest – downed tree root ball

Fungus among us

To a beach with plenty of sand flies

The next stop was a Flea Market in Greymouth where Helen purchased a watercolor painting of a sailing ship and a shell/driftwood mobile for Sue

Views along our coast drive north of Greymouth

 

Pastoral scene with ever present sheep

Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes were next –

They are part of Paparoa National Park

Lots of tourists here

But the rocks/ocean/walkway/wave surges to Dolomite Point and back were worth it

 

 

 

I think this is a Weka – another of New Zealand’s flightless birds

Also ate a small lunch at a restaurant across from the entrance – though we didn’t get them, they served “Pancakes” all day – smart move, big profit margin.

Punakaiki Cavern, a small cave just north of the Pancake Rocks, proved a worthwhile stop as we continued north on the Coast Highway.

 

Views as we continued north on the Coast Highway

 

Arrived at the Omau Settlers Lodge outside of Westport at about 4:30.  Settled in and asked for directions/time to do the Lighthouse Coastal Walk as well as visit the Seal Colony.  The times we were given were vastly underestimated.  It took us 2.5 hours to walk from the Lodge to the lighthouse, along the coastal walk to the Seal Colony and back, which we discovered was the normal estimated time.  Here are some trees/flowers as we walked along the road to the Cape Foulwind car park.

 

 

Good map of Cape Foulwind

The first lighthouse was placed here in 1876

The current lighthouse was built about 1925

Bay along the Cape Foulwind Walkway

Scenic coastline walk

Unexpected trail obstacles

 

Though longer than expected, it was an excellent hike

Almost to the Seal Colony!

This point is a New Zealand Fur Seal Breeding Colony

Some of the seals –

 

 

Can you find the two seals?

The walk, vistas, seals, etc. were well worth the 2.5 hour effort and we celebrated a belated Valentine’s by having a delicious grilled fish salad with a pint of beer at the Star Tavern, right across from the Omau Lodge.

 

2/16 – Had our continental breakfast at the Lodge and then drove through Westport to Karamea.  Stopped by the Visitor Center and picked up a good map of the trails we would be taking and bought a take-out lunch at the 4 Square Market.  We spent about 20 minutes walking the Karamea Estuary.

 

 

Pictures of estuary birds –

 

Drove 16km off of the Karamea – Kohaihai Highway (McCallums Mill Road) into the Oparara Basin on a rough gravel single lane road

Our first hike was the 1.5 hr Moria Gate/Mirror Tarn Link Loop Track

 

 

I found Moria Gate Arch especially interesting

You climbed down under the Arch using your hands and a chain for support

The view of the cave/stalactites/stalagmites/river was special.  I had not seen this combination before

 

The Oparara River runs through the arch

Climb out

Mirror Tarn Track

Mirror Tarn

Ate our sandwich at the car and then did the Oparara Arch trail (50 min return).  See You Are Here – Oparara Carpark

Start of hike

Nice spot –

Reflection shot –

On the trail

Downriver side of Oparara Arch – An Arch is formed by a river, whereas a Bridge is formed by erosion, e.g. Rainbow Bridge on Lake Powell in Utah.

Entrance

 

656 ft long, 157 ft high and 121 ft wide

There were also two other caves at the end of the gravel road that we explored with our head lamps.

The first and largest of the two was Box Canyon Cave.

Helen liked this one best as you could walk some distance inside to see the formations, glowing water droplets and even glow worms on the ceiling

 

 

 

Leaving the cave

The second cave was much smaller

 

It was named Crazy Paving Cave for obvious reasons

Drove those bumpy miles back to the Karamea – Kohaihai Highway and then drove to its northern terminus in Kohaihai.  Helen stayed in the car to stitch as I did the short Zig-Zag Track –this view is from the top

I then did the Nikau Walk, which started by crossing a suspension bridge

The suspension bridge crosses the Kohaihai River

The walk was in Kahurangi National Park

It had more palm trees than any other walk we had been on

 

 

Beach view of Kohaihai River (right) entering the Tasman Sea

It was a long two hour drive back to Westport.  We decided to return to the Seal Colony Overlook and then returned to the Star Tavern for another fish dinner.

 

2/17 – Not much exciting today, though the scenery is always interesting – drove from Westport to Picton (3.5 hrs) and took the Interislander Ferry (Kaitaki) across Cook Straight to the North Island (3.5 hrs).

Kaitaki means “Challenger” in Maori and she is the largest ferry in New Zealand with room for 1600 passengers.

Entering Wellington Harbor

 

Drove north through Mangaweka – Old DC-3 for the tourists.  Different kinds of “Pies” are eaten for every meal.

It took 3.5 hrs to get to the Taihape Motel from the ferry.  Sent a Happy Birthday text to Hattie!

 

2/18 – Had a simple breakfast at 6:30 in Taihape at the Crystal Bar and started driving toward Rotorua.  This time we got to see Mt Ruapehu (left – 9,177 ft) and Mt Ngauruhoe (right) in Tongariro NP from the east.

Mt Ngauruhoe – 7,516 ft is actually the south peak of Mt Tongariro

Mt Tongariro – 6,454 ft

Arrived at the Whakarewarewa Living Maori Village outside of Rotorua for the 10am tour

OK, say the bottom word three times really fast!

This was an authentic Maori Geothermal Village.  Though a tourist attraction, people still live in the village.

 

 

Bathing tubs for different temperatures, notice how they are fed by hot mineral water through different troves

Church with cemetery on right

 

Pohutu Geyser

The tour was quite interesting and when done there was a dance/singing performance by the village Te Pakira group – three male and four female villagers.  At the end, Helen performed with the group.

Do these warriors scare you?

Maori Meeting House

 

Pohutu Geyser – another view

We also purchased a Hangi Pie meal for lunch.  The Hangi Pie, a pastry pie filled with meat, vegetables and gravy, and a piece of corn were cooked in a traditional in the ground wooden oven heated by steam coming up out of the ground (geothermal).  There was a nice fresh salad as well and then a kind of cake layer covered by pudding and fruit for dessert.

 

We also did a loop trail around Green Lake and another around the “hot” lakes and visited the museum

 

 

Checked into the Funky Green Voyager Backpackers Hostel in Rotorua.  As it turned out we had a large dorm room with five beds plus a double bunk bed a couple of shelving units and that’s it!  Fortunately, there was an attached restroom with shower that we could lock for our own use.

We had a nice walk through the Government Gardens downtown.  They had four very large grass areas reserved for lawn bowling and croquet

As well as the expected trees, flowers, ponds and monuments

 

 

We stopped at the museum for some excellent iced coffee and then walked along the lake admiring the various birds.

 

Lake Rotorua

 

 

Hiked around Sulphur Point

We came across a man who was half finished with a cloak he was making in the traditional Maori fashion.  It was his graduation project for his degree in Art Design.

Maori Canoe

Distant relative?

Ate at the Indian Star Tandoori Restaurant and that evening took a short walk through the Redwood Forest.  The redwoods were planted here as an experiment one hundred years ago.  They are clearly thriving.

Too dark to get good pictures – nurse log

Creative restrooms – almost makes you want to go!

 

2/19 – Had breakfast at a new McDonald’s “Mc-Café” in Rotorua.  It was large, upscale (e.g. many pastry options) and even had it’s own coffee barista!  We made a last minute decision to tour the Hobbiton Movie Set  where The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies were filmed on our way to Auckland.

Hobbiton is located on a sheep and beef farm just outside of Matamata

We had reserved tickets for 11:30 but were able to fill two open spots for the first tour of the day at 10am

The oak tree that overlooks Bag End was cut down and transported in from near Matamata.  Artificial leaves were individually wired onto the tree and must be replaced every few years!

Looking down from oak tree toward the “Party Tree” and “The Water”

The New Zealand Army put a one mile road into the site and helped with initial set development

There were 39 “Hobbit Holes”

 

 

 

Retirement home?

 

 

The Green Dragon Inn across “The Water”

 

Refreshments

 

 

 

Some Old Hobbits

Farewell Hobbiton –

 

 

 

2/21 – Had breakfast and spent the rest of the morning preparing for a ferry ride to and stay on Waiheke Island in the Hauraki Gulf across from Auckland. Bob and Sue have been renting a summer home there for years. Here is the ferry coming into port –

Rangitoto Island is left center, the summit of the crater is 853 ft high

Relaxing on the 11 mile (45 minute) trip

Approaching Waiheke Island

Puppeteer at the Ostend Market

View of Onetangi Bay from balcony of vacation house

Heineken Man having lunch

Ferry coming into Bay, picture taken from Debbie’s property (Bob and Sue’s daughter)

Getting ready to go fishing!

Bob setting up the “Torpedo” – it is a battery powered device that can take 100 fish hooks out from the beach. Hooks with bait are placed about 8 feet apart on a line that is pulled out into the water by the Torpedo. After an appropriate amount of time a battery powered winch is used to pull the line, hopefully with some fish, back in!

Dinner preparation back at the house

Yummy dinner while the Torpedo does the “fishing”

The Torpedo caught three fish. Sue says Bob will never make up the cost of the Torpedo by the value of fish caught!

Two of the fish caught – I called them Ying and Yang for obvious reasons

 

2/22 – Sue and Helen dropped Bob and I off for a hike through Onetangi Reserve and went shopping.  Auckland in distance –

Nice hike

Kauri tree forest

Our hike ended near Charlie Farley’s bar at Onetangi Beach

It was a festival day at the beach with a lot of friendly competition; e.g. horse racing on the beach and a regatta course for amphibious boats – see picture

Walked back to the house for lunch

 

 

Another view of Onetangi Beach

After lunch, we took the ferry back to Auckland

Helen finished a cross-stich for Bob and Sue, framed it

And hung it on their wall

 

2/23 – Bob got us to the Auckland Airport about 6:15am for our 8am flight to Sydney on Virgin Australia Airlines.  It was terrible, they had only two agents and by the time we got to the counter we had only 30 minutes to get on the plan.  But, they had finished accepting luggage and we had to take ours to a different location.  The first location they told us to go to was incorrect.  By the time we got to the right one and then went through security, we had five minutes to run to the gate.  You can picture Helen with her knee brace, backpack and picture (about 18″ x 24″) and me with my backpack, boarding papers and hiking stick running for the plane!  We were the last ones on before they closed the gate!

 

1/21/2015 – Karlene picked us up at 11am to drive to the airport.  Our first flight was to MSP, then to SEA, then to HNL arriving at midnight and getting to the Equus Hotel at 1:30am.  With a five hour time difference, that’s 19.5 hours traveling!  That’s what you get for using frequent flyer miles!

1/22 – We were up at 4;30am (3hrs sleep) and were picked up by the Makani Air van at 5:50.  Our single engine plane took about a half hour to fly from HNL to “topside” Molokai.

 

We then took a taxi to the trail head and checked in for our hike down the 3.2 mile trail to Kalaupapa NHP.  I picked up a park pamphlet at the trail head.

Kalaupapa – left center

The trail dropped 1664 feet and had 26 switchbacks

Helen, left of center, near end of trail

A permit was necessary to hike to the former leper colony

 

Trail started at top of cliff

We reached the bottom about 10am.  A “donkey train” (like the Grand Canyon) arrived with about 10 clients at 10:30 and then our tour bus showed up shortly after. 

In 1865 Hawaiian communities were moved off the leaf-like peninsula that is cut off from the rest of Molokai by the 1600 foot cliffs, for the formation of a leper colony.  King Kamehameha V established the community in an attempt to control the spread of leprosy.  Thousands were forced into settlements on this isolated peninsula. Leprosy, also called Hansen’s disease, was poorly understood then.  Today, leprosy is easily cured with proper diagnosis and treatment.  It is interesting that fifteen leper patients still live in Kalaupapa.

Norm, our driver/guide, took us on a tour of the former leper colony.  Stops included Mother Marianne Cope’s grave and monument (she is now designated a Saint by the Catholic Church),

National Historic Park Visitor Center

St Francis church

 

and the ocean landing. 

We were then driven to the Kalawao Settlement for a bag lunch and a visit to St Philomena Church

 

 

There are several graves there and a monument for Father Damien.  He was a Belgian priest who came to care for the residents and also succumbed to the disease.  He was designated a Saint in 2009.

 

We flew out of Kalaupapa (instead of going back up the trail) about 3pm. This is the lighthouse near the small air strip

Taking off – rugged coast

Lighthouse from air

Kalaupapa Settlement from air

“Topside” Molokai above cliffs – Kalaupapa peninsula on left

We changed planes “topside” for our trip back to Oahu and I was able to sit in the copilot’s seat.  We saw a Navy destroyer leaving Pearl Harbor, landed in HNL and were back at our hotel at 5pm. 

 

After dinner we strolled through the high price hotel district window shopping and listening to music and then walked along the beach, It was a beautiful evening.

1/23 – Slept twelve hours and then spent the morning walking along the Waikiki beach.  This is the Hilton Lagoon

Silver Head on left, Diamond Head on right

Barefoot Babe

Cleaning those bare feet – same spot we used in 1982

King Kalakaua  1836 – 1891

Creative bike rack

Took a taxi to the airport and boarded an Hawaiian Airlines jet for a six hour flight to American Samoa.  It is located 2,600 miles SW of Hawaii.  The word Samoa means “sacred earth.”

We arrived about 10pm at the Tafuna International Airport on the island of Tutuila and then took a taxi to Moana O Sina, our bungalow accommodations for the next five days.  Despite all of our international travel, this was our first time in the Southern Hemisphere.

1/24 – Had a tropical breakfast, picked up a rental car and drove to Pago Pago.  First stop was the Fagatogo Square Market – bought some bananas,

a huge avocado and two cute little girl Chinese tops for our granddaughters Leva and Hattie

also bought eight “donut balls” for $1. They were so heavy and greasy; I could only eat 3 of my 4!

View of Pago Pago Harbor from behind market

We then did the 0.6 mile Blunts Point trail to a World War II Cannon that guarded the harbor. The trailhead sign was somewhat obscured by a local’s chicken enclosure.  First picture is left hand side of sign

This next picture is the right hand side of sign

Start of trail – hot and humid

By the time we reached the gun, we were soaked in sweat

It is a National Historic Landmark

We then took our time driving to the west end of the island. Our first stop was the armed forces monument near the airport. Matafao Peak (2142 ft) is in background.

World War II era fortifications at memorial

We then followed a rough gravel road to The Turtle and Shark Legend site by Larsen Bay. As the myth goes, a blind women and her granddaughter were turned out by their village during a time of famine. They went to this point and jumped off the cliff. Feeling guilty, their family went to find them and called out their names. A turtle and shark appeared and the family knew they were miraculously transformed in the water.

Stopped at several beaches on our way out to Fagamalo (end of the road) and back

Helen searching for shells, didn’t see another tourist all afternoon.  In fact, only saw a handful during our six days on the island

Fagamalo Marine Protected Area

Fagamalo beach

After a Chinese dinner we returned to Moana O Sina for a dip in the big pool

and to sit and watch the waves crash over the volcanic shoreline.

1/25 – Sunrise over the small soaking pool outside our bungalow

Becka serving our tropical breakfast of fresh fruit (most from the grounds), cereal and excellent coffee.

Went to church at Holy Family Cathedral in Tafuna this Sunday morning – it was wonderful!  It was worth the half-hour it took to find it (no street signs).

It was the children’s mass and there was such peace and joy in the congregation.  A procession of young people brought the gifts (hosts, wine, colorful leis for the two priests and a white one for the bishop, as well as flowers) to the altar.  The singing was loud and clear and joyous.  At the end, all the children performed a native dance and sang.

Large Mural depicting the Samoan family

Wonderfully carved Samoan Nativity

 

Cathedral panel – men

Cathedral panel – women

We changed clothes and headed to the western entrance to the Le’ala Shoreline Trail – it is a National Natural Landmark.  Sign depicts locations of seven National Natural Landmarks on island.

 

Boys playing in surf

 We didn’t get far as it was high tide and the volcanic rocks were extremely slippery 

and dangerous!

So, we drove back to Moana O Sina.  Here are some sights along the way – example of a traditional “Fale” or family gathering place, every family (extended) has one.

We were advised to follow the Samoan Way “Fa’asamoa” while on the island:

• Always ask permission before taking pictures, using the beach or for any other activities
• Sundays are a day for church, rest and quiet
• Dress conservatively, no bikinis or speedos – wear shorts and T-shirt
• Do not eat or drink while walking through a village
• Other specific guidelines if asked into a fale

Interesting Samoan decoration

Vailoa Korean Fisherman’s Cemetery

Family cemetery plots are in front of homes and often close to the ocean

Banyan tree

First order of business, lunch – fresh avocado sandwiches.  We spent the rest of the afternoon lounging at the ocean and taking dips in the pool.  Note owner’s dogs – lower right

Check out the color

My favorite spot

Every wave different

Beautiful sunset!

1/26 – Helen’s Birthday!  It took us an hour to drive to The National Park of American Samoa Visitor Center in Pago Pago – only one road and rush hour traffic!  When we signed in they discovered it was Helen’s birthday and four rangers sang her happy birthday, first in English and then Samoan.  They informed us that the trails we intended taking were in reasonable condition.

New National Park of American Samoa T-shirt

The main American Samoan island is Tutuila

About 60 miles east are the American Samoa islands of Ofu, Olosega and Tau. Together are are called the Manu’a Islands. I tried very hard to get to Ofu, it is supposed to have the best snorkeling of all the islands. However, the only way to get there at this time is on the mail boat and we did not have enough time for that.

This picture is to be included in park newsletter, mentioning Helen’s birthday and my completion of ALL National Parks

StarKist Tuna plant from Pago Pago

American Samoa’s largest employer – locals are upset because they import a lot of foreigners who will work for lower wages. Chicken of the Sea closed it’s plant a number of years ago. We learned a new company is in the process of re-opening that plant. That should help the economy.

Charlie the Tuna

Pago Pago Harbor and Matafao Peak

Entering the National Park

Signs describing the Vai’ava Strait National Natural Landmark and Pola Island

Rainforest information

Hiking the Lower Sauma Ridge Trail through the rainforest – 0.4 mi roundtrip

Vatia Village on left, Vai’ava Strait and Pola Island from the east

Vatia Bay and Village, note bird above surf

After driving around the Bay and through the Village, we did the short Pola Island Trail. Guide stated, “Due to unfriendly dogs, please drive past the last house at the end of the paved road in Vatia Village.”

Looking back along rocky beach toward Bay and Village

Sign in Vatia Village – weaving remains an important traditional skill and activity

Women weaving mats in the community Fale, each village has unique designs.  They are used for sitting, sleeping and for gifts.

Tuafanua Trail 1.1 miles through tropical rainforest over pass and then down a steep descent on several ladders and ropes to a rocky beach.

Starting through the rainforest, there were then switchbacks up to the pass over the peninsula

Large snail, each species has a unique shell design

Descending with aid of rope

Very slippery

Approaching beach

They were right – a rocky beach.   It was hot and humid, Helen collected some more shells and we snacked and drank water to stay hydrated.

Pola Island (in background) from the west side

Preparing for hike back

One of the ladders

Another ladder

Pago Pago Harbor from NE

Back at the market, another rain storm

Coconuts, bread fruit, local transport and  a wet dog

We then celebrated Helen’s birthday with blackened tuna salads at the Sadie by the Sea restaurant on Goat Island.  Still looking for that fishing basket we stopped at the JlenT store in Nu’uuli where somehow Helen substituted a pearl necklace for that basket! Cell phone photo with Helen wearing “70 Rocks” crown made for her by Leva – she brought it on our trip!

 

1/27 – Rory West, our adventure guide, met us at 7:30am.  He had an old pickup, which would not fit the three of us, so we decided to take our rental car.  He was supposed to take us to two good snorkeling locations, based on tide and weather.  He brought two sets of old snorkeling equipment but none for himself.  I said we expected him to be snorkeling with us.  So, we stopped at a store so he could buy a third set and then we started our drive toward the east side of the island.

When we stopped at the first beach, Helen and I put on our snorkeling gear but Rory stated he wasn’t going in and would watch our things.

In the end, it was not a good place to snorkel and we left after half an hour

Rory had no other suggestions for snorkeling so I said we would continue east to the village of Au’asi and take a native shuttle boat to the island of Aunu’u.  It was something Helen and I were going to do ourselves anyway. It cost $1 per person each way to take the 15 minute ride across the straight to the island.

This man was going to a funeral on the island. You can see that the island is a caldera. It is a National Natural Landmark.

Rory was not familiar with the island and did not know how to find the trail to the rim of the caldera.  Helen decided to stay at the beach to collect shells.  View back toward Tutuila

while Rory and I passed through the village asking for directions.

We followed those directions but could not find the trail

After about half an hour, we returned through the village passing the funeral service taking place in the community Fale.  Found Helen at the beach and caught the next boat shuttle back to Tutuila.

Rory continued to give us information on the history of American Samoa as well as local customs as we drove back to Moana O Sina.  We agreed that I would pay him only half his stated fee.  I can’t believe Outside Magazine recommended this guy.  No boat, no snorkeling, no adventure!  I knew of potential snorkeling sites but did not know tides, conditions, etc.  We hired him for safety.

We did Chinese take-out of steamed dumplings with sweat and sour pork for dinner and then enjoyed the pools and sunset.

 

1/28 – leaving our bungalow

We started the morning by doing the 2 mile hike to Fogatelle Bay National Marine Sanctuary, had to pay the family at the head of the trail (where it states Gate on the map) $5 each for access.

Hiking the ridge section, where the sign states 4 WD Road

Overlook of Fogatelle Bay

This is the point where it states Chain and then the trail drops down to a small beach

There were a wide variety of birds in the rainforest

Last steps down to the beach, notice the small waterfalls

Another small waterfall entering the Bay – this would have been an outstanding spot for snorkeling had we brought equipment.

Close-up

See the lizard?

By the time we got back to the car we were both soaked with sweat from the temperature and high humidity.

Helen wanted a picture of this building

and columns

Celebrating a successful hike at Moana O Sina – we packed our things (after our 5 night stay) and then had to sit on the volcanic rocks and let the ocean spray cover us one last time.

Drove into Pago Pago for the 1pm show in the Tausse JP Sina Ocean Center.

The facility was finished in 2012 and is the administrative and educational center for the new and expanded National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa.

One of the features is a large sphere on which can be projected various views of the world as well as video programs.

Map showing the extent of the Marine Sanctuary

Went back to the town market so Helen could buy a wrap (cloth) to use as packing for a USPS Priority box sent to ourselves containing literature, clothes, sea glass, shells and rocks, $9 no weight limit.  The next stop was the post office to mail the box and some postcards.  This was our last opportunity to use the US mail until we returned to Hawaii in four weeks.

National Park boat, Rainmaker Mt (1718 ft) in background

Tuna boats

Local racing canoe

It took about a half hour to drive to Tisa’s Barefoot Bar at Alega Beach – located just left of center in photo

We were the only customers all afternoon. Note the glow of the fire left of center

“Candyman,” Tisa’s significant other, had started the fire on the sand floor at 2pm to heat the stones for the “Umu” or Samoan Feast that evening. He continuously fed the fire until 5pm.

This was a laid back fun place; Tisa even let me put my store bought beer in their ice chest!

We checked in and borrowed snorkel equipment to swim out to the reef.

Off to snorkel – Our Fale (room) was the open A frame right of center

We didn’t see any turtles

Tisa on the balcony of our Fale

The reef itself was not great but there was a nice variety of fish. Underwater camera did not do it justice

 

At 5pm, half coconut bowls with meat, seafood and vegetables were placed on the hot stones and coals and then covered with banana leaves. Our Fale was at the top of the three stairs

Candyman placing banana leaves. Our toilet and small sink were, right of center, behind bar

Our Fale – a thatched roof A frame completely open to the beach and ocean, was outfitted with a double bed, night stand, a single bed and a small table with two chairs.  The ocean view from the balcony was stunning.

Mosquito netting over bed

We shared the Umu with a group of trial lawyers that were putting on a workshop in Pago Pago.  Ready to do the peel (7:30pm) and get to that food

The “Feast” included bread fruit, octopus, shrimp, papaya, coconut, mango, sweet potato, fish, turkey, pork, etc.

Starting to serve

 

Some of the choices

Choices were placed on a large banana leaf (plate substitute).  Beer and hand sanitizer at top – you ate with your fingers Samoan style!

That evening we were the only people remaining after the owner Tisa and her companion Candyman left to sleep at their home because it was going to rain all night.  It rained most of the night, the only inconvenience was Helen going to the restroom, about 15 yards away, in the rain.  This is the route as seen in the morning. I didn’t have that problem given the open balcony.

 

1/29 – Morning has broken –

 

Candyman arrived and had our breakfast prepared for us at 8am.

Whole grain organic bread with bananas and a special banana sauce on top served on a banana leaf and excellent local coffee

We drove to the airport, returned the rental car and eventually boarded the small Polynesian Air plane for our 35min flight to Samoa, also referred to as Western Samoa, an independent country.

Fagatele Bay National Marine Sanctuary – Bye-Bye American Samoa, we would like to return some day –

This flight reservation (and hotel reservations) took careful planning because when we left it was January 29^th at 12:45pm.  When we landed 35 minutes later it was 2:20pm on January 30^th – we crossed a time zone and the international dateline.

Landed at Fagali’ airport, took a taxi to the Outrigger Hotel, sounds much better than it actually was, and then grabbed umbrellas to walk into Apia.  Ten minutes later the skies opened with torrential rain.  Umbrellas did no good and we had to call a taxi to take us to a nice Italian restaurant, Scalini’s, near our hotel. The umbrellas worked for the top half of our body as we walked back to the hotel but our legs and shoes got soaked as we walked through the water overflowing the culverts and flowing down the road.
1/31 – [Samoa date] Had a “tropical” breakfast at the hotel

Then took a taxi to the Robert Louis Stevenson home/museum on top of a hill overlooking the island and ocean. Two of his most famous works are Treasure Island and Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hide.

Fireplace was just for decoration, guide did a nice job for us and one other couple – no shoes allowed

Mats on floor and interesting Samoan mat wall covering

He only lived here 4 years.  He died at 44 and was buried on top of Mt Vaea, now a Scenic Reserve adjacent to the estate.

 

Attractive gardens surrounding house

Portrait of Stevenson, safe and bear rug

Samoan sculpture on veranda

Taxied to the Flea Market in Apia where we purchased some gifts for family and friends

 

 

Walked past the Fish Market and harbor where some fishing boats were off-loading their catch

Notice their taped hands

Clock Tower, just right of stoplight, was built in memory of those that died in World War I

Samoan Tourist Authority built in the shape of a Fale.  The statue is across the street from the cathedral

Muliva Catholic Cathedral

Beautiful woodworked ceiling with traditional designs. We observed a funeral service for about 20min and then picked up our bags and headed for the Faleolo Airport about 22 miles west of Apia.

Our Air New Zealand flight took 4 hours and we landed about 7pm.  Bob & Sue picked us up at the airport and drove us through Auckland to their large/modern apartment.  We immediately fell into friendly conversation as if we had seen each other just yesterday – though it had been 25 years ago!

 

 

 

12/5/2014 – After attending the OAHPERD convention at Kalahari Resorts in Sandusky OH, I drove west along Lake Erie first stopping at Magee Marsh Wildlife Area (ODNR)

and then Ottawa National Wildlife Refuge where I took short hikes and toured the Visitor Centers.

I then continued to Toledo to visit Fallen Timbers and Fort Miamis National Historic Sites in Toledo’s Side Cut Metropark.

After the Revolutionary War and the Treaty of Paris (1783), the U.S. received the Northwest Territory (eventually becoming OH, MI, IN, IL, WI and part of MN).  However, the Native Americans of the area were not part of the treaty and the British did not withdraw from the Northwest Territory.  As U.S. settlers moved west, the Indian Western Confederacy (supported by the British) resisted their expansion.  Indian leaders included Chiefs little Turtle (Miami) and Blue Jacket (Shawnee).  The U.S. suffered early losses against the Indians in 1790 and 1791.  As a result, in 1792 President Washington and Congress commissioned General “Mad Anthony” Wayne to train an American Legion (Army) to secure the Northwest Territory.

In 1793, Wayne marched north from Cincinnati with about 1,500 men and spent the winter at Fort Greeneville.  He then continued to the banks of the Maumee River and met the Indians (about 1,100) for battle on August 20, 1794.  The battle lasted about two hours with the Indians taking shelter around trees that had been felled by a tornado a few years before – hence the “Battle of Fallen Timbers.”

The Indians retreated five miles north to Fort Miamis (on the Maumee River), which was held by a strong British force.  Interestingly, the British would not let the Indians (their allies) in and the warriors continued their retreat!  General Wayne had orders not to attack Fort Miamis and returned to camp.

Fort Miamis was built by the British to prevent Wayne from attacking Fort Detroit.  The fort was turned over to the Americans in 1796, but was abandoned in 1798 and not used again until the War of 1812.  In 1813 General William Henry Harrison had Fort Meigs constructed on the south bank of the Maumee River, at present day Perrysburg OH.  Later in the spring, the British landed again at the Fort Miamis site as a base of operations and were joined by the Shawnee chief Tecumseh.  They attacked Fort Meigs but were not successful.  In October of 1813 Harrison went on the offensive and attacked the English and Indian army at the “Battle of the Thames.”  It was a victory and Tecumseh was killed in the battle.  The Americans had now secured the Northwest Territory.

 

11/14/2014 – 2013 Christmas Gift! – Peter and Heather had given us a gift of a weekend stay in the Smoky Mountains for Christmas 2013.  We tried for ten months to get dates that would work for all four of us.  Peter’s new car top carrier made it possible for all of us, two large dogs, food/drinks and clothing bags to travel together to our Timber Tops Luxury Cabin Rental named “Fifty Mile View” outside of Gatlinburg TN.

Peter and Heather slept in a bedroom on the first floor while we were given the loft with king size bed, TV, pool table, video game counsel and hot tub.

11/15/2014 – Great Smoky Mountains National Park – It was 18 degrees when woke but the arctic blast moving down with us from Ohio had brought us a clear blue sky.  After breakfast (Heather prepared excellent meals for our entire stay), we drove into Gatlinburg to take the Gatlinburg Trail to Sugarlands Visitor Center.  It is one of only two “dog friendly” trails in the park.

We walked a total of about 5 miles, mostly along the Little Pigeon River.

 

There was an old cemetery near the Visitor Center – I believe Martha was speaking to us from the grave –

 

We returned to the cabin to watch football while we ate/drank, played pool, video games and euchre.

 

We returned home (7hr drive) on Sunday just before a 5 inch snow fall.  It was a wonderful weekend!

 

 

Cuyahoga Valley National Park – OH

October 15, 2014 – Arrived at the Inn at Brandywine Falls about 5pm to check-in.  The house was built in 1848 by James Wallace who owned the mills (now gone) at the falls.

It was a short walk from the B & B to Brandywine Falls – note Helen at the gate

Brandywine Falls – 67 ft

October 16, 2014 – 9am candlelight breakfast – the Inn at Brandywine Falls was one of the best B & B’s we have stayed at

We met Dick and Jan at the Botzum RR Station parking lot to start our 20 mile bike ride.  We chose to ride north on the trail from Botzum Station to Rockside Station because it is generally downhill!  The Cuyahoga River empties into Lake Erie.

In 1974 Congress created Cuyahoga Valley National Recreation Area as an urban park.  It became a National Park in 2000

Though we had some light rain, overall, it was a beautiful Fall day

“Ka-ih-oogh-ha” is the Indian word for crooked – the river runs 90 miles from Akron to Cleveland where it enters Lake Erie but the distance is only 30 miles as the crow flies.

Many interesting stops along the way

Much of the trail is along the Ohio and Erie Canal Towpath – this location is Deep Lock Quarry

We stopped at the Boston Store National Park Visitor Center

Museum view of canal at this point

Canal boats were made here as well

“On the Trail Again”

Beautiful Fall colors!

Snapping turtle

Great Blue Heron

Most of the trail was crushed stone and very smooth.  However, it did rain a bit so we had some puddles to contend with resulting in water being tossed up on bikes and clothes – see Dick’s back.  This is an example of one of the asphalt sections of the trail, which were OK but tended to be bumpier than the crushed stone sections.

Canal Visitor Center – they sometimes demonstrate lock operation here

“Hell’s Half Acre” – this structure, at Lock 38, was built in the 1820’s and served at various times as a tavern, general store and residence.  It obviously acquired a colorful reputation among canal travelers.

This shows the 308 mile path of the canal from Cleveland to Portsmouth on the Ohio River

Boats were raised 395 vertical feet by 44 locks between Cleveland and Akron

The National Park has a great cooperative program with the Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad which runs from Summit County Metro Parks in Akron, to Rockside Station in the northern end of the National Park.

There are a total of eight stations along the route.

 

Bicyclists can get on at any stop with their bikes and ride the train as long as they like in one direction for only $3!

We rode our bikes from Botzum Station to Rockside Station (20miles) along the Canal Towpath Trail and then took the train back

 

August 11, 2014 – Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural National Historic Site, Buffalo NY 

President William McKinley was shot by an anarchist on 9/6/1901 while attending the Pan American Exposition in Buffalo NY.  He died on 9/13/1901 and Theodore Roosevelt was sworn in as the 26th President of the United States that afternoon at the home of Ansley Wilcox a local attorney.

Parlor –  inauguration room

Tour guide showing telegraph

Clever display

Reproduction of Roosevelt’s office in the new west wing of the White House in Washington DC

Overnight at Nancy’s home in Pittsford NY

 

August 12, 2014 – I was on the road at 4:30am and Helen and Nancy left for two days of flea marketing around Hamilton NY (Colgate University)

Martin Van Buren National Historic Site – Martin Van Buren helped form the Democratic party and was the 8th President of the United States.  The historic site includes his home and part of his farm called Lindenwald in Kinderhook NY

The original house was built in 1797 and Van Buren purchased it in 1839.

Major renovations were made between 1849 – 1850

Parlor

I was the only one on the 9am ranger tour

Library with bust of Van Buren, another sits in the Red Room of the White House

 

Springfield Armory National Historic Site Massachusetts

The Springfield Armory was a major arsenal during the Revolutionary War and in 1794 the new federal government decided to manufacture its own muskets so that the nation would not be dependent on foreign arms.  President George Washington selected two sites for national armories – Springfield MA and Harper’s Ferry VA.  The Harper’s Ferry Armory was destroyed by the North at the beginning of the Civil War.

Why is that gun pointed at me?!

Organ of muskets

Civil War musket

Magazine rifle – Indian Wars

M14 (1957) – last rifle produced at the armory

Display shows progression of the rifles manufactured at the armory from 1794 to 1968.

Model showing the extent of the armory grounds.  All U.S. arms are now privately manufactured.

 

Saint-Gaudens National Historic Site in Cornish New Hampshire

Augustus Saint-Gaudens is recognized as one of America’s greatest sculptors.  The historic site includes his home, which he called Aspet, along with studios, galleries, gardens and memorials.

Back of house

Atrium and pool, New Gallery

He is known for his low and high portrait reliefs.

Robert Louis Stevenson, 1888

Theodore Roosevelt Special Inaugural medal, 1905

His public monuments are perhaps his greatest legacy.  This is the Farragut Monument –

Shaw Memorial – monument to the Civil War service of the Massachusetts 54th Regiment of African American Volunteers in Boston

He did many Lincoln monuments

Little Studio

One of his few female pieces, Diana

 

 Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller National Historical Park, Woodstock VT

After the American Revolution, settlers poured into Vermont and by the mid-1800s most of Vermont’s forests had been cut down, causing severe erosion and flooding.  George Marsh, who grew up on his family farm in Woodstock in the early 1800’s, was a keen observer of nature.  After serving in Congress he became a diplomat in Italy and traveled around the Mediterranean.  He found that human actions had “brought the earth to a desolation almost as complete as that of the moon.”  Marsh distilled his observations into a classic book, Man and Nature (1864).  His careful analysis of the human impact on nature and his eloquent plea for responsible land stewardship made this book one of the founding texts of the environmental movement.

In 1869 the Marsh farm was purchased by Frederick Billings, a Vermont native who had made his fortune as an attorney in San Francisco during the California Gold Rush.  Returning to Vermont he found barren hills, silted rivers and a devastated countryside.  Billings set out to build a farm that would serve future generations as a model of wise stewardship.  After his death in 1890, Billing’s plan was sustained by his wife and daughters and then his granddaughter, Mary French.

Mary French married Laurance Rockefeller in 1934 and brought together two families with a strong commitment to conservation.  The Rockefeller family had generously created or enhanced over 20 national parks and helped make conservation and outdoor recreation an essential part of the national agenda.  Laurance and Mary made the gift that established Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller Nationalk Historical Park as Vermont’s first national park.

I first toured the visitor center at the Billings farm.  This model shows the farm and Mount Tom.  The park continues past Mt Tom to the west including reforested hills, pastures, carriage roads, trails and the Pogue, a pond tucked in the cleft of the mountain.

The Marsh mansion was built in 1805-07 and has been kept in the 1800s Queen Anne style of architecture.

“Passing the Torch,” a Tiffany window in the Mansion, symbolizes an intergenerational commitment to conservation.

Terrace gardens

After touring the mansion grounds, I was off for a 5 mile hike.  I started on the Precipice Trail to the top of Mt Tom.

Woodstock from the top of Mt Tom

I then did the North Peak Trail.

the Mount Tom Road passed this pasture,

then proceeded around the Pogue Loop

and returned to the Billings farm by way of the Mountain Road

I then visited the First Congregational Church (1808) and had dinner at Bentley’s in Woodstock.

After dinner I drove to Moreau Lake SP in New York to camp.  However, I got there at 10:10pm and was told that I could not enter because camping registrations ended at 10!  I drove down the road to a boat dealer lot and slept in the Sequoia.

 

August 13, 2014 – Fort Stanwix National Monument, Rome NY

Fort Stanwix was one of five forts that were located at different times at the Oneida Carrying Place.  The Oneida Carrying Place was a portage that was used for thousands of years to carry goods from the Atlantic Ocean to Lake Ontario and the Great Lakes and vice versa.  Goods moved both east and west.  For example, goods would be brought into New York harbor, move up the Hudson and then Mohawk Rivers to the Oneida Carrying Place and then portaged 6 miles to Wolf Creek.  Boats (e.g. canoes) would then be loaded and paddled to Lake Oneida and onward to Lake Ontario at what is now Oswego NY.  Furs etc. would be carried in the opposite direction.  This was a critically strategic location before, during and after the Revolutionary War.

 

It was a rainy morning but made for some good pictures

 

Model of Fort Stanwix

Inside the fort

The following pictures show accommodations in the fort according to rank, from privates to commander.

Continental soldier 1777

 

Women’s Rights National Historical Park, Seneca Falls NY

This historical park highlights an 1848 convention called by reformers in Seneca Falls NY – “A Convention to discuss the social, civil, and religious condition and rights of Women.”  This area of upstate NY was a hotbed of Quaker and abolitionist sentiment and activity.

In the 1840’s, by law or custom, women did not vote, speak in public, hold office, attend college, or earn a living other than as a teacher, seamstress, domestic or mill worker.  In addition, a married woman could not make contracts, sue in court, divorce her husband, gain custody of her children, or own property, even the clothes she wore.

Several women were involved in organizing the 1848 convention, some of the prime movers were Lucretia Mott, Martha Wright, Jane Hunt, Mary Ann M’Clintock and Elizabeth Cady Stanton.

The M’Clintock house is in Waterloo and was rented from the Hunts

The Elizabeth Cady Stanton House is located across the Seneca River (Erie Canal) from downtown

Statues on the south side of the canal overlooking downtown depicting the introduction of Elizabeth Cady Stanton to Susan B. Anthony in 1851.  The Susan B. Anthony home is located in Rochester NY.

I like the juxtaposition of the Woman Made Products store and New York City Jewelers!

Women’s Rights National Historical Park Visitor Center

The “First Wave” sculpture group

Woman on left is Elizabeth Cady Stanton, male is Frederick Douglass

Many interesting displays on the second floor

Physical Education

Wesleyan Chapel, site of the 1848 “Women’s Rights” Convention that resulted in a formal “Declaration of Sentiments” based on the Declaration of Independence

 

The Erie Canalway National Heritage Corridor runs 363 miles from Albany (Hudson River) to Buffalo (Lake Erie).  Here is a “packet boat” at Seneca Falls

Most recently called the “Barge Canal,” the Erie Canal is now mainly used by pleasure craft.  Several bikeway trail segments are located along the canal.  A double lock structure (C/S locks 2 and 3) and a power plant are located at Seneca Falls.  The following views are looking west at lock 3 –

Looking east at lock 2

Power plant

Looking west at lock 2, power plant is on the right

 

August 14, 2014 – We stopped in Brockport NY where we lived between 1971 and 1980, except for a year and a half in Iran and a half year in Finland.  Brockport is/was a stop on the Erie Canal.   Do you remember the Erie Canal song Chorus?

“Low bridge, everybody down
Low bridge cause we’re coming to a town
And you’ll always know your neighbor
And you’ll always know your pal
If you’ve ever navigated on the Erie Canal”

This is the low bridge going up to allow for passage of a pleasure boat

Remember the Ivory Soap commercials?

This was our first home 1971 to 1977.  Stacy was born soon after we moved in.  It was depressing to go back because the houses we lived in have deteriorated.

We bought a historical home (1845) and barn on 3.5 acres six weeks before we went to Iran

We lived in two rooms and slept on the floor in sleeping bags for six weeks as we put on a new roof and gutters, new septic system, new chimneys, repaired plumbing and electric, cleaned the place up, etc.  That way we were able to rent it while we were gone.  The 20 x 40 pool is behind the small “dairy” building in the middle and there was an apple orchard behind that.

The owner was very kind and gave us a tour inside and out.  This view is looking out of the barn.  At the very back of the house on the left was an attached three seater “out-house” so you didn’t have to go outside!  There was also a secret room and two other secret areas that were used to hide slaves moving north on the underground railway.

 

August 15, 2014 – visited Ashtabula in the very corner of northeast OH with Dick and Jan.  During the late 19th century, boats brought iron ore here.   It was loaded on rail cars and taken to Youngstown and Pittsburgh’s steel mills.  At that time it was the busiest port on the Great Lakes.  Now some coal is being moved in the opposite direction and there are efforts to “clean-up” the river and Bridge Street area with an  emphasis on tourism and recreation.  This is a picture of the Ashtabula Lift Bridge.

There are 17 covered bridges in Ashtabula County!  Here are some pictures of the Smolen-Gulf Bridge

At 613 feet it is billed as the “Longest Covered Bridge in the U.S.”

It was built in 2008 at a cost of 7.8 million dollars

Does that detract from it’s tourist appeal?

The bridge crosses the Ashtabula River

Where we had great fun skipping stones!

 

August 16, 2014 – Driving back home, we stopped at an Amish thrift store that sold primarily outdated and damaged food and drink items.  That didn’t stop Helen from buying $70 worth!

Opps!  I parked in the buggy area and got horse poop all over my front tires!

August 8, 2014

We had a great tour of the exterior restoration of St Raphael and were able to climb the scaffolding to the top of the tall tower (170 ft), perhaps the highest point in Springfield.

June 1, 2014 – Our “real” anniversary is on June 8th but we decided to celebrate in Memphis TN on our trip back from Katy TX to OH.  After a 9 hour drive, we arrived in Memphis about 4pm and went to the TN Welcome Center on the Mississippi River and then did the River Walk.

Unfortunately, Mud Island and its Mississippi River museum were closed.  Flags are on south end of island.

We had “Soul” Burgers for dinner at Earnestine & Hazel’s, a former brothel, then danced to the juke box

We then drove to Beale Street – home of the “Blues”

Had a drink at Jerry Lee Lewis’s club where we were entertained by an Elvis impersonator

We stayed the night at a nice Days Inn right next to Graceland

June 2, 2014 – started the day with a tour of Graceland.  It is an audio tour and you only get to see the inside of the first floor.

Living room

Jungle room

Music room

Pool room

Paintings on display

His racquetball/fitness center has been converted for a nice display of record awards and costumes

Meditation Garden

Plane named after Elvis Presley’s daughter

1973 Stutz Blackhawk in Elvis’s auto museum – my favorite and the one he drove the day he died, August 16, 1977 at 42

Helen’s favorite

In the afternoon we went to the National Civil Rights Museum, which is located adjacent to the Lorraine Motel where Martin Luther King was assassinated

We then did the half hour trolley loop of downtown Memphis, riding on two different trolleys

We arrived at the Peabody Hotel about 4pm and relaxed with a drink by the fountain as we waited for the “march of the famous Peabody ducks.”

The ducks live in a penthouse on the roof, come down the elevator at 11am sharp and spend the day in the fountain

At 5pm sharp they march back to the elevator on a red carpet to the music of the “King Cotton March”

This is what you call frivolous nonsensical tourism!  Note the Duck Master following the ducks

Catfish and ribs dinner at the Blues City Café on Beale St.  Our waitress was Serbian and her Serbian friend who worked in the gift shop was from the same small town where Helen was born – Ub, Serbia.  She called Helen last weekend and relayed information from her parents about the condition of Helen’s grandfather’s house and estate.  It is indeed a “small world”!

We then had a drink and danced to a band in the Blues City Café Club, again walked Beale St listening to music and people watching and ended at B. B. King’s Blues Club

Helen is telling people she slept with Elvis – this next picture is proof – it was in our motel room!

It was another memorable anniversary celebration!!!

 

May 19, 2014 – Left Springfield the Monday after Wittenberg’s graduation for our trip to TX.  Made a brief stop in Cairo Illinois, the southernmost tip of Illinois, where the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers meet.

The Tri-state point IL-KY-MO is also located in the water off this point.  We arrived in Hot Springs Arkansas after a 12 hour drive and stayed downtown in the Springs Hotel & Spa.

May 20, 2014 – Started the day with a hike to the top of Hot Springs Mountain (1 mile roundtrip)

Observation Tower on top

View from Mountain Tower

We then visited Bath House Row

Quapaw Bath House

Fordyce Bath House – National Park Visitors Center

Undress – Wrap in Towel

Beautiful Stain Glass Ceiling of Changing Room

Tub for disabled individual (e.g. FDR)

Steam Cabinets

Bath Routine: Tub on right for 20 minute soak in 105 degree mineral springs water, followed by attendant rubbing you down with a luffa bath mitt, then a Sitz bath sitting in 110 degree water (center right), then a steam cabinet for 5 minutes (left foreground), then hot packs for specific joints (table right) and finally a pinpoint shower from all directions.

Pre-Post Activities in Gymnasium

After the visitors center, we went to the Buckstaff Baths and did the traditional Bath Routine!

Hot Springs Fountain

Yes, we’re from OHIO

May 21, 2014 – President William Jefferson Clinton Birthplace Home National Historic Site in Hope Arkansas.  This was actually his grandparents home where he lived until four years old.

 May 22, 2014 – Katy, TX – Chad’s Birthday.  It started with a call from Kate who was in China!

May 23-26, 2014 – Padre Island National Seashore TX.  We stayed in Corpus Christi and drove to Malaquite Beach each morning.

View from Malaquite Visitors Center

We were there early and able to get a shelter each day

Fun Beach Activities

If conditions permit, you can 4 wheel drive to Mile Post 60.  I only went as far as Mile Post 5.  Don’t get stuck!

Seasonal Seaweed was washed up 10-30 feet deep on beach

I took one morning to drive to and tour Palo Alto Battlefield National Historical Park just north of Brownsville TX

This was the first battle of the Mexican-American War, May 8, 1846

The Republic of Texas had severed ties with Mexico in 1836 (Alamo, etc.).  In 1845 President Polk moved to annex Texas as the 28th state with a southern boundary of the Rio Grande River.  Many Mexicans believed Texas was still a part of Mexico and the Mexican government opposed the annexation.  Polk sent General Zachary Taylor and a 4,000 man army to Texas to secure the border.  The President of Mexico sent General Arista to the Rio Grande to oppose Taylor.  After laying siege to Fort Texas on the Rio Grande River, Arista positioned 4,000 troops across the plain at Palo Alto.  At that time Taylor was resupplying his troops at Port Isabel.  Taylor marched his 2,300 U.S. troops to Palo Alto and attacked the Mexican line.  After this battle and the battle of Resaca de la Palma, the Mexicans were driven back across the Rio Grande River.  The War continued for two years until an American army landed at Vera Cruz and took Mexico City.  The Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo (1848) established the Rio Grande as the boundary with Texas and also resulted in Mexico selling the New Mexico and California territories.  This amounted to a huge expansion of the U.S. to the Rio Grande River and Pacific Ocean.

On the way back to Corpus Christi I stopped in Point Isabel and South Padre Island